PRACTICAL  HINTS  FOR  TOURISTS 


Hiimon. 


i    .£ 


l» 


r?. 


f'/m 


Morris  Phillips 


Hotel  Albemarle, 

(-'Pati^onized  by  Poyalt-y.) 

PICCADILLY,  LONDON. 


fHIS  palatial  hotel  is  fitted  up  in  the  most  luxur- 
ious style,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  select 
hotels  in  Europe.  Cuisine  and  wines  of  the  highest 
class.     The  salle  a  manger  is  open  to  non-residents. 


Telegraphic  Address,  "Hotel  Albemarle,"  London. 


Guide  to  London,  ail  attractive  little  book  of  50 
pages,  sent  free  of  charge  on  application  to  the  proprietor 
of  the  Albemarle.     Address 

A.    L.   VOOEL. 


j^m^rieap  l^i^e. 


UNITED  STATES  MAIL  STEAIIEES 

PARIS,    -     -    10,500  Tons.   I    BERLIN,    -    -    5,491  Tons. 
NEW  YORK,  10,500       "        |    CHESTER,     -    4,7T0       ^' 


New  M,  Southampton  ^^'Lonk 


FIRST  CABIN  PASSAGE  from  $70  to  $650, 

According    to    steamgh    and    location    of    Accommodations. 

Note.— Round  Trip  Tickets  issued  at  reduced  rates,  and  the  return 
portion  can,  if  desired,  be  iised  by  RED  ST.IR  LINE  from  Antwerp 
to  New  York  or  Philadelphia. 


International  D^vi^^tion  ("o., 


GENERAL  AGENTS, 

6  BOWLING  GREEN,  New  York. 


THE  GORDON   HOTELS  are 


LONDON. 

The  Grand  Hotel. 

Hotel  Metropole  and  the  Whitehall  Rooms. 

The  First  Avenue  Hotel. 

BRIGHTON. 
H&tel  Metropole  and  the  Clarence  Rooms. 

EASTBOURNE. 
Burlington  Hotel. 

RYDE. 

Royal  Pter  Hotel. 

MONTE  CARLO. 
H6tel  Metropole. 

CANNES. 
H6tel  Metropole. 


TJoTSL  ViCTGRIAq 


NORTHUMBERLAND  AVE., 
CHARING  CROSS,    LONDON,  W.  C. 


ROOMS  FOR  ARBITRATIONS 
AND  MEETINGS. 


BANOUETING-ROOM  FOR 
PRIVATE  PARTIES. 


N  E  of  the  most  magnificent  Hotels 

in  Europe.    Most  centrally  situate 

for  all  London  attractions — close 

to  Westminster  Abbey,  the  Houses 

of  Parliament, and  the  principal  Theatres 

500    ROOMS    SUPERBLY 
FURNISHED. 
COMPLETELY   LIGHTED 
BY    ELECTRICITY. 
PASSENGER     LIFTS    TO 
EVERY  FLOOR. 


T 


TELEGRAPHIC 

ADDRESS 

VICTOR  I  OLA 

LONDON 


Manager,    G.   REEVES  SMITH. 


HOTEL  WINDSOR, 

VICTORIA    STREET, 
W&atminst&T,  LON  DON,  S-  W. 


Convenient  and  central  location ;  European  or 
American  system ;  i\)e  only  l^otel  in  London  witl? 
TurkisI?  and  otljer  batiks ;  elevators  ;  electrically 
lial?ted   tl?roual?out,  day  and  nial^t. 

J.  R.  CLEAVE  &  CO.,  PROPRIETORS. 


Bristol  ^  Hotel, 


BURLINGTON  GARDENS,  LONDON,  W., 

<Bet.  Bond  Street  and  Regent  Street,  and  near  Plecadllljr) 


FURNISHED   WITH    EVERY    POSSIBLE 

COMFORT  AND  MODERN    IMPROVEMENT. 


M£W  HYDRAULIC  LIFT  TO  ALL  FLOORS. 

UGH  TED  THROUGHOU  T  BY  ELEC  TRICI TY. 

LARGE  OR  SMALL  SUITES  OR  SINGLE  ROOMS. 


i-^Ti-r-.    -#S5^^^r«  .  »,^  .  .-rrw,    { IVt't/t  Separate  Entra 

THE  Restaurant     cork^streetzsopen 

% "^ ^  Non  residents  ) 


( With  Separate  Entrance  in 

-     ■    ■■  fa 

) 


THE  HIGH  CHARACTERS  OF  THE  WINES  AND  CUISINE  HAVE  OBTAINED 
GREAT  REPUTATION. 


ffllmeiston  llesl[iui(i|, 

BISHOPSGATE  STREET  AND  OLD  BROAD  ST., 

LONDON,  (CITY)  E.G. 

^^e   Ltar^est  ©ne    Floor    pegtaurant    in    tlje    World 
(Covering  upwards  of  aij  ^cre) 


LUNCHEON,  OYSTER  AND  AMERICAN  BARS. 
CriTyT-x  T nc  •  DINING.  GRILL  AND  SMOKING  ROOMS.      : 
\^UlZiam).  ^^^^  DRESSING  SALOON,  BA  THS.  etc.       : 

CIGAR  and  WINE  DEPOTS  {Wholesale  and  Retail ) 


VyORTHY  OF  A  VISIT. 


SIIVLPSON'S 

(LIMITED) 

Divan  Tavern, 

I03     STRAND, 

Opposite    Exeter   Hall,        -        -        -        LONDON. 


OOHE  premier  Restaurant  in  the  Strand,  established  upwards  of 
Vy  fifty  years,  which  still  retains  its  supremacy  for  beinj?  the 
house  to  get  the  best  English  Dinner  in  London  at  a  moderate 
price.  There  is  also  a  magnificent  Ladies'  Dining  Room  where 
ladies  can  dine  in  the  same  style  and  cost  as  gentlemen  do  in  the 
room  down  stairs.      Private  rooms  for  large  or  small  parties. 

Noted  for  Soups,  Fish,  Entrees  and  Joints.  Saddles  of  Mutton 
specially  cooked  to  perfection  from  12.30  to  8.30  p.m.  Originator  of 
professed  Carvers  to  attend  on  each  customer  at  separate  tables 
Matured  wines  and  spirits.  The  largest  stock  of  any  tavern  in  the 
kingdom. 

E.  W.  CATHIE,  MANAGING  Director. 


YORl\J^OiJSE 

FAMILY   HOTEL, 

BATH,  ENGLAND. 


ALSO  AT 


S.  Ifincent's  Rock  Hotel  Clifton,  Bristol  EnglaDd. 


V_,  HIS  favourite  First  Class  Establishment  possesses  many 

^J  local  advantages,  being  close  to  the  General  Post  and 
Telegraph  Offices,  and  also  very  near  the  Assembly  Rooms, 
the  Victoria  Park,  the  Royal  Crescent,  and  all  the  most 
attractive  parts  of  the  City. 

The  Hotel  contains  numerous  Suites  of  Elegant  Apart- 
ments, and  is  under  the  personal  superintendence  of  the 
Proprietor,  who  has  had  many  years'  experience  in  hotel 
management. 

For  Tariff,  which  is  revised  and  moderate,  address 

E.  ASHCROFT,  Proprietor. 


LARGE    ROOM    FOR    WEDDING    BREAKFASTS, 
DINNERS,   PUBLIC   MEETINGS,  &c. 


HOTEL  BINBA, 

11  me  de  L'Echielle, 

AVENUE   DE   L'OPERA.  *  PARIS. 

y^ 

][S>Ap(3)E  and  small  apartments;  lift  to 
■'"''■^  each  floor  ;  gmokin^  and  drawing- 
room  ;  bathroom  on  each  floor;  table 
d'hote,  6  francs,  from  6  to  8  o'clock,  at 
separate   tables ;    restaurant   a   la   carte. 


ADVANTAGEOUS  ARRANGEMENTS  MADE  WITH 
FAMILIES  WINTERING  IN   PARIS. 


Electric  Light  all  over  the  Houise. 


CHARLES  BINDA,   PROPRIETOR. 

Late  with  Delmonico,  New  York. 


;^^ 


37,  Rue  Cambon,  37, 


PA^IS. 

BOULEVARD         DES        CAPUCINES 

Rn  face  les  jardins  du  Ministere  de  la  Justice 


WULLSGHLEGER  &  G>^ 


BAINS 
ASCENSEUR 


FROFRIETAIRES. 

RESTAURANT 

TABLE  D'HOTE 

CALORIFERE 


TELEPHONE 
ELEgTRlGlTE 


PARIS. 


HOTEL 


PARIS. 


MeXROPOLE. 


6  RUE  CASTIGLIONE.  6 


^m^HIS    first-class    f^otel,    situated    in    the 

best    part   of  the    metropolis,    opposite 

the    Hotel    Continental    and    the    T^uileries 

©ardens,  is    highly    reconrimended   fov 

comfort,  cuisine,   moderate  charges  and 

sanitary  arrangements;    ©tis   J^merican 

^levator. 

X.  8IbVA,NI,  f^roprietor. 


LONDON  &  NORTH  WESTERN  RAILWAY 

THE  OLD  ROUTE  !N  THE  OLD  COUNTRY.   THE  TOURISTS'  FAVORITE. 

IRISH  AND  SCOTCH  ROYAL  MAIL  ROUTE. 

SHORTEST  AND  QUICKEST  FROM 
IjI  VERPOOIi  (Lime  Street  Station)  to  liONDON  (Euston  Station) 
under  FOUR  AND   A-HALP  HOURS  to   GL.ASG01»^  (Central 
Station),  in  FIVE  AND  THREE-QUARTER  HOURS. 
QtJEENSTOlt'N  to  IiONDON  Tla  Dnblln  and  Holyhead, 
in  FIFTEEN  HOURS  AND  FORTY  MINUTES. 

Bagsage  Checked  Through  from  Neiir  Tork  to  lion- 
don,  both  via  ((UEENSTOirN  and  LIVERPOOIi. 

At  IilVERPOOIi,  Family  Omnibuises  from  Landing  Stage, 
and  Special  Trains  from  Alexandra  Dock  to  Lime  Street  Station 
and  Hotel. 

NORTH    WESTERN    HOTEIi,    l.lme    Street    Station, 

lilverpool,  the  best  and  largest— the  hotel  for  Americans. 

SPECIAIj  trains  from  Liverpool  to  I^ondon  when  re- 
quisite to  make  close  connection  with  steamers  arriving  from  America. 

Elegant  Vestibule  Drawing-Room  Cars  without  extra 
charge.  Compartments  with  lavatories,  and  private  saloon  and 
family  carriages  for  parties  without  extra  charge. 

Sleeping  Cars  with  Compartments  and  brass  Beds,  5s.  per  berth 
in  addition  to  first-class  fares. 

DINING  CARS  on  principal  trains  and  "American  Specials." 

liuncheou  Baskets  at  the  principal  Stations. 

In  liONDON,  Family  Omnibuses  can  be  obtained;  and  the 
Euston  Hotel  (at  the  Station),  noted  for  its  Cellar  and  its  French 
-Cuisine,  will  be  found  mos-  comfortable. 

THE  I.ONDON  AND  NORTH  WESTERN  RAIL. \¥ AY 
has  NOT  abolished  Second  Class  Carriages;  passengers  to  whom 
economy  is  an  object,  but  who  do  not  wish  to  travel  Third  Class,  can 
combine  comfort  with  economy  by  traveling  Second  Class  by  this 
line.  First  and  Second  Class  on  all  trains.  Third  Class  Carriages  on 
all  trains  except  the  Irish  Malls  to  and  from  Dublin. 

The  Company's  Agents.  Mr.  W.  STIRLING,  at  Queens- 
town,  and  Mr.  FRED.  W.  THOMPSON,  at  Liverpool,  meet 
the  American  Steamers  on  arrival,  and  secure  omnibuses,  seats, 
saloon  carriages,  rooms  at  hotel,  and  give  general  information. 

THROUGH  TICKETS  to  London,  Glasgow,  Paris, 
and  principal  stations  in  England,  Scotland,  Ireland,  Wales, 
and  Continent  of  Europe. 

TICKETS,  Time  Tables  and  information  as  to  travel  and  hotels 
■can  be  obtained  from  the  Company's  Canadian  Agent,  Mr.  D. 
BATTERSBY,  184  St.  James  St.,  Montreal,  and 

Mr.  C.  A.  BARATTONI,  Gen'l  Agent  for  the  U.  S.  and  Canada, 
852  Broadway,  near  Union  Square,  New  Ifork. 


G.  P.  NEELE,  E.  MICHEL, 

Superintendent  of  the  Line.  Foreign  Traffic  Superintendent. 

London,  Euston  Station,    q   piNDLAY.  Gen'l  Manager. 


Won,  Glmtas  Dover 


RAILWAY. 


A.   THORNE, 

Formerly  at  H.  S.  Claflin  at  Co.'s,  New  york, 

American  Representative  in  England, 

bondon,  (^l7afl7am  p.^^  Do\?ei'  l^ailway, 

Victoria  Station,  London,  S.  w., 

^^  TTENDS  the  arrival  of  the  principal  steamships  at 
(2/H.  Liverpool  and  Southampton,  and  arranges  for  Special 
Saloon  Carriages  upon  either  the  North  Western  and 
Midland  Railways  from  Liverpool,  or  by  the  South  Western 
Railway  from  Southampton  to  London,  and  thence  to  Dover 
from  Victoria  Station  by  the  London,  Chatham  and  Dover 
Railway.  From  Dover  to  Calais  (the  shortest  sea  passage  to- 
France)  by  the  magnificent  S.S.  "  Calais-Douvres,"  "Em- 
press," "  Victoria,"  and  "  Invicta,"  owned  and  controlled  sole- 
ly by  the  London,  Chatham  and  Dover  Railway  Company. 

A.  THORNE  secures  Private  Deck  Saloons,  and  from 
Calais  to  Paris  and  other  prominent  points  Special  Saloons 
and  Sleeping  Cars  as  required. 


TELEGRAPHIC  ADDRESS:      CALDOVER,"  LONDON. 


The  London,  Chatham  and  Dover  Company's  trains  run 
from  Victoria,  St.  Paul's  and  Holborn  Stations  through  the 
prettiest  and  most  picturesque  parts  of  Kent,  and  passengers 
have  the  privilege  of  stopping  over  at  Rochester  to  visit  the 
Cathedral  and  the  Castle,  and  at  Canterbury  to  view  the 
Cathedral  (containing  the  tomb  of  the  martyr  Thomas  k 
Becket),  and  other  places  of  interest. 


0'nEII:,I:.'S 


SIXTH  AVENUE,  20th  to  21st  ST. 


NEW  YORK. 


IMPORTERS  AND  RETAILERS  OF 


Fine  Millinery,  Dry  Goods, 

Ladies',  Misses'  and  Children's  Cloaks  and  Suits, 

GENTLEMEN'S  FURNISHINGS, 
FINE    CHINA,    GLASSNA/ARE,   etc. 


4^t  (Jdatf  ^bet  ©e^jftrfmenf 

/fas  facilities  for  handling  orders  by  mail  or  express  that  makes- 
shopping  at  a  distance  ce  pleasure,  guaranteeing  perfect  satisfaction 
to  the  customer,  or  money  refunded.  Through  this  Department  loe- 
issue,  FREE  OF  CHARGE  (to  out  of  town  residents  only),  semi- 
annually, April  1st  and  September  ist,  a  HAND  SO  MEL  Y 
ILLUSTRATED  CATALOGUE,  fully  describing  and  illus- 
trating the  many  lines  of  goods  in  our  establishment.  SEND  FOR 
A  COPY. 

H.  O'NEILL  <&  CO. 


6th  Avenue.  20th  to  21st  Street, 


NEW  YORK. 


Imota  4|otel, 

michigan  boulevard  and  thirtieth  street, 
Ghicaco. 


ABSOLtlTeLV  FIF^e-PROOF. 

Situated  or)  Chicago's  Fashjionable 
aniGRKjan  add  ©oulevard,  coverjient  to  the  cerjtre 
€UROPGAn  '•     of  tb)e  city,  all    tljeatres,  shjops,  etc. 

PLRTl$.        :         :      Especially  adapted  for  tourists.        - 

Cuisiqe  agd  service  urjgurpassed.      " 


ALL  LANGUAGES  SPOKEN. 


JAMES  R.  KEENAN.  MANAGER. 


ABROAD  AND  AT  HOME 


PRACTICAL  HINTS  FOR  TOURISTS 


.    BY 

MORRIS  .PHILLIPS 

EDITOR  OF 

THE     HOJvIBJ    JOURNA.L 

NEW  YORK 


NEW  YORK 
BRENTANO'S 

Paris      Washington      Chicago      London 


C^tv 


Copyright  1893, 

BV 

MORRIS    PHILLIPS. 


T+1E    ART   PRESS, 

DEMPSEY  &   CARROLLf 

.86  EAST  14th  street, 

NEW    YORK. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Preface,  by  Hon.  A.  Oakky  Hall,          ...  5 

GREAT  BRITAIN. 

London  on  Wheels,       .            .           .           .           .  11 

London  Hotels,                  .....  26 

A  Few  Boarding  Houses,      .            .    '        .           .  46 

Where  to  Lunch  in  London,  and  Where  Not  to  Lunch,  49 

Railway  Travelling  in  England,       ...  59 

The  Crypt  of  St,  Pauls,                ....  67 

The  Queen's  Mews,                ....  70 

The  Finest  Square  in  London                •            •            •  73 

Hampton  Court  Palace,         .            .           .            .  81 
London  Oddities,                           .            .            .            .87 

Poverty  and  Charity  in  England,                 .            .  97 

Margate,                              .....  100 

Two  Brighton  Hotels,            ....  108 
A  Visit  to  Bleak  House,           .    .            .            .            .111 

Bath  and  its  Attractions,        ....  116 

Takin'  Notes  in  Edinboro'  Town,           .            .            .  120 

The  Burns  Monument,            ....  127 

Crossing  the  Channel                 .                        .           •  i33 

PARIS. 

Paris  Hotels,                .....  134 

Pensions  of  the  First  Class,                   .            .           .  144 

The  Restaurants  of    Paris,               ...  148 

The  American  Church  in  Paris,          .           .            .  157 

Musee  du  Louvre,                    ....  160 

Musee  de  Luxembourg,                ....  164 

Musee  de  Cluny,                      ....  166 
Hotel  des  Invalides,          .            .            .            .           .168 

Places  of  Interest  and  Time  for  Visiting  Them,    .  170 
Places  of  Public  Amusement.                  .            .           .171 

Cab  Fares,                    .....  172 

Tables  of  Coins,  Measures  and  Distances,     .            .  173 


CONTENTS— Continued. 

PAGE 

Ambassadors,  Consuls,  Bankers  and  Religious  Services,  174. 

Versailles,                      .            .            .                        .  i75 
En  Passant,                        .            .           .            .            .177 

ITALY. 

By  Sea  to  Italy,          .....  181 

The  Birthplace  of  Columbus,— Hotels,              .            .  189 

SWITZERLAND. 

The  Hotels  of  Lucerne,            ....  196 

THE  UNITED  STATES. 
Georgia  — 

Savannah,  The  De  Soto,                   .            .            .  200 

Thomasville,           .....  203 

A  New  Southern  Resort,       .            .            ...  210 

Florida — 

A  Cuban  Ciiy,  (Key  West),                      .            .  216 

St.  Augustine,             .....  225 

About  Tampa,                  ....  228 

California — 

Monterey,                     .....  232 

Santa  Cruz,            .....  241 

Pasadena                      .....  249 

Los  Angeles,       .                ....  254. 

"  The  California "  in  San  Francisco,                      .  258 

Salt  Lake  City,             .            .            .            .            .       .  262 

Saratoga  Springs,              .....  265 

Adirondack  Mountains,          ....  268 

Tne  Thousand  Islands,                ...  271 

Niagara  Falls,               .            .           .            .            .  273 

Atlantic  City,                        .....  275 

Chicago  and  Its  Hotels,           ....  278 

Railway  Travelling  in  America,  .  ,  .288 

SUJVIMER  RESORT  GUIDE,  1893. 

Index  to  Chapters,                   ....  291 

WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE,  1893-94. 

Index  to  Chapters,                        ....  343 


A  continuous  residence  in  London  of  eight  years  has^ 
satisfied  me  that  precisely  such  a  book,  so  far  as  it 
relates  to  that  city,  which  my  friend  and  once  junior 
legal  associate  now  presents  is  popularly  needed. 

That  in  such  respect  it  will  be  vitally  interesting,  even 
to  readers  who  have  never  been  tourists  thither,  "  goes 
without  saying."  Moreover,  there  are  in  these  pages 
views,  comments  and  sights  of  the  "abroad "and  "at 
home  "  additionally  valuable  ;  therefore  I  gladly  accept 
his  invitation  to  prepare  a  short  preface  to  this  volume 
of  an  American  M.  P.  in  the  Parliament  of  Letters. 

He  first  broached  his  idea  of  papers  about  London  at 
a  capital  luncheon,  when  meeting  together  there  we 
discussed  with  palates,  forks  and  wine  glasses  a  tempt- 
ing menu  during  the  summer  of  1890,  as  guests  of  Host 
Vogel,  of  the  new  Albermarle  Hotel  in  Piccadilly,  at  the 
top  of  the  historic  St.  James's  street. 

We  then  and  there  drank  success  to  the  M.  P.  idea, 
and  I  doubt  not,  that  every  reader  of  this  volume  will 
be  disposed  to  heartily  duplicate  that  toast  at  his  first 
dinner  which  shall  follow  its  perusal. 

When  a  tourist  first  arrives  in  London,  beneath  the 
inviting  shadow  of  the  Northwestern  Railway  station 
hotel,  that  is  flanked  by  two  smaller  inns,  with  its  centre 
pierced  by  several  taverns,  or  direct    from   Southamp- 


6  PREFACE. 

ton  at  the  Waterloo  station,  within  rifle  shot  of  which  a 
score  of  hotels  invite  his  lug-gage  and  his  wearied  frame, 
that  tourist's  earliest  question  will  be,  which  hospitable 
caravanserai  shall  I  patronize  ? 

His  second  question  will  concern  his  vehicular  desires 
for  transportation  by  cab,  'bus  or  railway.  Other  quer- 
ies will  suggest  themselves  regarding  the  "How,"  the 
"Where,"  the  "Which"  and  the  "Why"  of  his  new 
London  surroundings. 

With  this  volume  on  shipboard  eti  route :  or  in  r9,ilway 
carriage  in  transitu,  the  tourist  will  already  possess 
answers  in  his  mind  to  those  queries  or  similar  ones 
respecting  Edinburgh  or  Glasgow;  and  will  not  be  at 
the  mercy  of  chance  or  of  confusing  porters,  or  of  con- 
testant "cabbies,"  or  of  the  shady  sharpers  who  throng 
railway  platforms. 

Once  well  housed  in  any  of  the  places  herein  men- 
tioned, and  once  understanding,  by  the  aid  of  the  en- 
suing pages,  how  to  get  about  in  the  vast  metropolis — 
wherein  one  may  ride  sixteen  miles  from  extreme  north 
to  a  suburban  south,  and  fourteen  miles  from  west 
to  east  without  quitting  paved  and  lighted  streets,  or 
the  continuity  of  habitations — a  traveler's  eyes  and  ears 
•  will  be  all  the  Mentors  he  will  require. 
jg,.  Of.  so-called  guide  books  (of  which  class  this  is  not), 
there  are  in  London  and  elsewhere  abroad  confusing 
scores,  but  the  average  tourist  ought  to  shun  guide- 
books as  he  would  a  Bradshaw,  unless  he  loves  char- 
ades, puzzles  and  conundrums. 

Every  mother  knows  that  when  her  infant  obtains  his 
footing,  the  child  will  walk  confidently.     This  volume 


PREFACE.  7 

serves  to  give  the  person  who  arrives  in  London  or 
Edinburgh  and  kindred  cities  an  instant  footing.  In  the 
parlance  of  the  race  course,  it  is  the  "  starter." 

On  arrival,  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  demand  and 
learn  the  points  of  compass;  because  all  enquiries  about 
the  "  Where  "  in  London  hinge  on  those. 

The  papers  by  M.  P.  about  cabs  and  omnibuses  will 
be  found  as  valuable  as  they  are  piquant.  He  tells  of 
certain  trips  (and  tips)  on  top  of  a  'bus  ;  he  vividly  de- 
scribes how  the  best  way  for  exploring  London  is  to 
ride  in  its  every  direction  on  the  tops  of  omnibuses — 
devoting  days  to  the  task,  or  rather  pleasure — and 
when,  as  street  after  street  is  passed,  reading  their 
names,  which  are  always  sign-affixed  to  the  turn — a  con- 
venience even  for  residents  which,  in  late  years,  is 
strangely  unknown  in  New  York  City.  Thereby  locality 
and  prominent  buildings  and  often-referred-to  neighbor- 
hoods become  fixed  in  an  observer's  mind  for  future 
uses  of  memory. 

I  learned  to  know  London  "  like  a  book  " — as  common 
phrase  goes  :  and,  I  therefore  fully  appreciate  how  much 
this  book  will  serve  to  teach  new  tourists  how  to  begin 
to  learn  London  ;  how  much  it  will  revive  pleasant 
memories  in  former  tourists  ;  how  greatly  it  will  instruct 
intending  tourists  ;  how  pleasantly  it  will  amuse  those 
who  may  not  expect  to  practically  patronize  the  hotels  ; 
how  well  it  will  instruct  as  to  London's  vehicles  and  the 
'wonders  of  the  English  city,  which  is  practically  seven- 
teen centuries  older  than  New  York. 

But  there  are  other  sides  and  hues  to  this  prismatic 
volume.    Not  only  is  it  inviting  to  Americans  who  wish 


8  PREFACE. 

to  know  about  the  "  across-the-ocean-f erry, "  but  it  will 
be  attractive  to  the  countrymen  of  the  M.  P.  who  may 
travel  or  who  would  like  to  travel  Westward,  whither 
"the  star  of  Empire  takes  its  way."  And  also  to  the 
foreign  tourist  who  may  for  only  one  week  reside,  in 
transitu  to  the  States,  upon  the  floating  greyhoundish 
hotels  which  we  call  steamships. 

Especial  attention  must  1?e  invited  to  those  pages 
which  treat  of  pleasure  resorts  in  the  country  of  the 
author ;  over  which  he  has  travelled  extendedly  under 
patriotic,  as  well  as  artistic  impulses ;  and — to  coin  a 
phrase — in  which  he  brought  a  mental  kodak  to  bear 
upon  scenes  and  surroundings  that,  I  blush  to  write  it, 
are  slenderly  known  to  Americans.  They  rush  abroad, 
tempted  by  the  glamour  which  antiquity  and  the  Past 
throw  over  foreign  scenes,  and  they  too  often  neglect 
the  beauties  and  attractions  of  their  own  home.  To 
such  the  "At  Home"  and  the  "Abroad"  may  both 
prove  equally  attractive  in  good  and  fit  seasons.  The 
pages  in  question  will  be  inviting  also,  in  the  particular 
mentioned,  to  the  foreigner  who  may  be  blase  of  Euro- 
pean attractions  ;  and  who  may  be  told  by  this  volume 
that  in  Florida  or  in  California  he  can  find  fresh  Rivieras ; 
a  replica  of  Carlsbad,  in  Saratoga  ;  and  in  Newport  a 
companion  to  the  Isle  of  Wight  during  summer,  or  to 
Sicily  in  the  winter. 

Inasmuch  as  the  old  International  Exhibition  in  Hyde 
Park  during  Prince  Albert's  time,  or  in  Paris  when 
Napoleon  the  third  reigned,  or  in  Vienna,  or  Brussels, 
made  so  many  American  tourists  lovers  of  the  fascina- 
tions of  those  great  capitals  ;  perhaps  the  Exhibition  at 


PREFACE.  9 

Chicago  will  bring  as  many,  or  more  European  tourists 
to  the  fascinations  proffered  by  scenes  and  places  in 
the  United  States. 

To  such  foreign  tourists  this  volume  must  prove  as 
indispensable  in  the  brain  and  heart  sense  as  in  a  bodily 
sense  will  be  the  dressing  case  within  the  boundaries  of 
excursions  and  travel.  Moreover,  the  volume  will  in- 
dicate to  them  where  to  loiter,  or  to  linger,  or  to  take 
speed,  where  to  abide  with  pleasure  and  comfort,  and 
whither  to  go  with  the  full  or  prudent  purse  for  pur- 
chases and  cheer. 

Marvelous  as  London  is  to  the  American  tourist,  the 
wonders,  the  hotels,  the  coasts,  and  the  traveling — es- 
pecially toward  the  Pacific  ocean — are  equally  marvel- 
ous to  English  M.  P.  's  and  foreign  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  fortune  or  leisure  who  seek  transcontinental  scenes 
and  comforts. 

Merely  "turning  the  leaves,"  a  phrase  happily  used  as 
a  heading  for  book  notices  by  the  author  of  ' '  Kissing 
the  Rod"  in  his  World  newspaper  of  London,  will  at 
once  show  any  buyer  of  this  volume  what  I  have  implied. 

A.  OAKEY  HALL. 

Lotos  Club,  March  i,  1893. 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 


ABOVE  GROUND,  ON  THE  GROUND,  AND  UNDER  GROUND. 


THE   UNDER-GROUND   LINES.  .- 


How  the  five  millions  of  people  in  London  ' '  get  about " 
to  their  daily  avocations  and  homes  is  a  mystery  to  those 
who  have  not  made  the  subject  a  study.  So  I  have  gath- 
ered some  information  which  will  throw  a  little. light 
on  it. 

Let  me  start  out  with  the  statement  that  besides  the  ten 
large  terminal  stations,  like  the  Euston  Square  and  the 
Midland,  both  in  Euston  Road,  there  are  four  hundred 
and  thirty  railway  stations  within  the  metropolis,  and 
the  under-ground  lines  alone  carry  annually  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  millions  of  passengers.  The  under-, 
ground  roads  have  been  in  existence  for  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  century,  and  are  found  to  answer  the  pur- 
pose admirably  of  relieving  the  over-ground  traffic. 
They  are  convenient,  cheap  and  comparatively  quick, 
but  not  always  pleasant. 

They  now  form  a  network  of  rails  under  the  surface, 
and  they  have  been  a  success  from  the  first.  They  are 
a  great  engineering  triumph,  and  may  be  said  to  have 
marked  a  new  epoch  in  the  history  of  London.  The  act 
permitting  the  tunneling  was  passed  in  1853.  Mr.  John 
Fowler  conducted  the  herculean  labor,  and  underneath 
the  streets  of  the  busiest  of  cities,  down  where  the  soil 
was  honeycombed  with  other  works — gas  pipes,  water 
mains,  drains  and  sewers — a  railway  line,  costing  up- 


is  LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 

wards  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  pounds  per 
mile,  was  constructed  almost  without  the  knowledge  of 
those  above.  For  three  years — from  the  spring  of  1 860 
to  the  beginning  of  1863 — two  thousand  men,  two  hun- 
dred horses  and  fifty-eight  engines  were  employed. 
When  completed  another  difficulty  presented  itself,  but 
was  overcome  by  Mr.  Fowler,  who  invented  a  locomotive 
which  could  be  worked  in  the  open  air  like  an  ordinary 
engine,  but  which,  while  in  the  tunnel,  emits  neither 
steam  nor  smoke,  being  so  constructed  as  to  be  able  to 
condense  the  one  and  consume  the  other. 

And  yet,  after  a  long  ride  in  the  under-ground,  you 
may  emerge  with  a  headache. 

Of  course  the  cars  have  to  be  lighted  artificially,  and 
they  had  not  learned  to  use  the  electric  light  in  them 
when  I  last  was  in  London,  in  October,  1892.  Gas  is  a 
poor  substitute  in  such  a  place.  You  are  forced  to  read 
your  newspaper  in  a  dim  light,  and  the  gas  consumes 
much  of  the  oxygen  which  gets  into  the  tunnel  from  the 
stations,  and  from  openings  en  route,  which  are  made 
for  the  purpose. 

Yet  you  do  not  get  abotit  as  quickly  in  the  under- 
ground as  you  would  imagine.  To  avoid  obstructions, 
and  for  mechanical  reasons,  the  road  takes  a  circuitous 
route  and  you  frequently  must  ride  a  long  way  around 
to  go  a  comparatively  short  distance. 

Millions  of  Londoners,  who  go  direct  from  home  to 
business,  seldom  get  into  an  under-ground  train.  There 
are  many  over-ground  lines  built  on  brick  arches  which 
go  to  the  suburbs,  where  rents  are  low  ;  for  every  En- 
glishman must  have  his  own  house,  no  matter  how 
small,  which  he  regards  as  his  ' '  castle. "  These  trains 
are  quick  and  cheap,  and  you  are  blessed  with  ample 
light  and  good  air — at  least  as  good  as  you  can  get  in 
foggy,  smoky  London. 

On  nearly  all  roads,  whether  on  trunk  lines,  over- 
ground or  underground  lines,  there  are  first,  second  and 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  13 

third-class  cars,  or  "  carriages,"  as  they  call  them.  Even 
some  omnibuses  that  ply  from  the  trunk  line  stations 
also  have  compartments  for  different  classes ;  your 
Englishman  is  very  particular  with  whom  he  rides. 

Occasionally  you  meet  with  unpleasant  companions  in 
third-class  carriages  of  local  or  suburban  lines,  but  on 
through  trains,  say  between  Liverpool  and  London,  the 
ihird-class  carriages  are  comfortable,  and  the  travelers 
of  a  respectable  class. 

There  is  a  great  difference  in  the  rates,  and  on  a  long 
journey  it  is  worth  consideration.  First-class  fare  is 
almost  double  that  of  third-class.  Second-class  is  neither 
one  thing  nor  the  other,  and  on  some  lines  it  has  been 
abolished. 

It  is  an  old  saying  that  only  princes,  Americans  and 
fools  travel  first-class.  I  don't  care  under  which  head 
they  place  me,  so  long  as  they  place  me  in  a  first-class 
"carriage."  That  it  is  more  comfortable  is  incontro- 
vertit)le,  if  you'll  pardon  such  a  big  word.  I  say  this  in 
the  face  of  what  John  Stuart  Mill  said,  that  the  only 
reason  he  rode  third-class  was  because  there  was  no 
fourth. 


ELECTRIC  LIXES  UNDER  GROUND. 


The  Forum  in  1891  printed  a  very  good  description 
from  the  pen  of  Simon  Sterne,  of  the  new  electric  under- 
ground railway  in  London,  and  the  Sunday  Sun  soon 
after  had  an  elaborate  article  on  the  subject,  which, 
with  illustrations,  occupied  nearly  a  whole  page. 

It  is  a  quick  and  convenient  means  of  locomotion,  and 
to  accomplish  it  was  a  work  of  wonderful  engineering 
skill  for  which  the  inventor,  Mr.  Peter  Greathead,  can- 
not be  praised  too  highly ;  but  the  riding  is  by  no 
means  pleasant. 


14  LONDON  ON   WHEELS, 

In  a  lift  large  enough  to  accommodate  fifty  passen- 
gers, you  descend  a  distance  of  eighty  feet  below  the 
surface — part  of  the  road  running  beneath  the  bed  of 
the  river  Thames.  The  cars  are  small  and  fairly  well 
lighted,  but  they  have  an  unpleasant  vibration,  and 
although  the  air  is  not  noticeably  impure,  there  is  an 
uncanny  feeling  with  the  knowledge  that  you  are  bur- 
rowing, as  it  were,  in  the  bowels  of  the  earth. 

The  road,  probably  an  experimental  one,  is  only 
three  miles  long,  extending  s6uth  from  "  the  monu- 
ment," in  the  city.  It  has  not,  thus  far,  proved  a 
success  pecuniarily,  the  cost  of  construction  being  so 
great,  although  no  land  was  purchased  except  for  the 
stations. 


HANSOMS  AND  FOUR-WHEELERS. 


Street  cars  are  not  needed  in  the  city.  Nearly  all  Lon- 
don streets  are  in  as  good  condition  for  driving  as  our 
Central  Park  roads.  There  are  eight  thousand  hansoms, 
four  thousand  four-wheelers,  and  two  thousand  omni- 
buses, so  that  you  are  not  obliged  to  walk  on  account  of 
the  absence  of  cars.  The  four-wheeled  cabs,  or  ' '  growl- 
ers," as  they  term  them,  are  dilapidated,  uncomfortable 
vehicles,  which  lack  new  springs,  and  are  dirty  both  inside 
and  out.  The  horses  and  the  drivers  are  old  and  super- 
annuated ;  they  have  all  seen  better  days  in  private 
carriages  or  hansom  cabs.  You  never  take  a  four- 
wheeler  if  you  are  alone,  or  if  the  party  consists  of  only 
two  persons.  You  must  engage  one  if  you  have  a 
trunk,  but  if  you  are  going  to  catch  a  train  or  boat  you 
had  better  allow  a  half  hour's  margin. 

The  London  cab  service  is  the  best  and  cheapest  in 
the  world.  I  say  this,  notwithstanding  that  I  remember 
hiring  a  cab  in  Key  West,  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  for  a 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  15 

dime.  But  such  cabs  and  such  horses  !  The  rate  in  a 
hansom  is  sixpence  per  mile  for  one  or  two  persons,  no 
fare  less  than  one  shilling  (twenty-five  cents) ;  by  the 
hour,  two-and-six  Csixty-two  cents). 


HOW  THEY  DRIVE. 


England,  Italy  and  Gibraltar  are  the  only  places  I 
know  of  where  they  drive  to  the  left.  English  drivers 
say  that  by  sitting  on  the  right  and  driving  to  the  left, 
they  can  better  watch  the  hubs  of  approaching  wheels, 
and  thus  prevent  collisions.  This  left-hand  driving 
many  years  ago  educed  the  subjoined  doggerel  from  a 
London  poetaster : 

The  rule  of  the  road 

Is  a  paradox  quite  : 
If  you  keep  to  the  left 

You  are  sure  to  be  right. 

Several  thousand  members  of  the  Metropolitan  police 
force  are  engaged  solely  in  attending  to  street  traffic. 
Yet  with  all  their  \ngilance,  more  accidents  occur  in  Lon- 
don, proportionately,  than  elsewhere.  London  drivers 
are  polite  and  very  civil  to  each  other.  If  an  obstruc- 
tion appears  in  front  of  a  horse,  or  if  for  any  reason  he 
is  obliged  suddenly  to  slow  up,  the  driver  will  imme- 
diately notify  the  driver  in  the  rear  by  holding  out  hori- 
zontally his  left  arm  ;  and  this  sign  is  passed  down  from 
one  driver  to  another,  until  the  very  end  of  the  line  of 
blocked  vehicles  is  reached. 

A  popular  style  of  hansom  has  thick  rubber  tires, 
which  add  considerably  to  ease  and  comfort  in  riding. 
So  little  noise  does  the  vehicle  make  in  going  over  Lon- 
don's smooth-paved  streets,  that  these  cabs  are  provided 
with  bells  to  warn  pedestrians  of  their  approach.  The 
interior  fittings  include  a  holder  for  lighted  cigars,  a 


16  LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 

box  of  matches,  a  small,  bevelled  mirror  on  either  side 
of  the  cab,  and  a  swinging  rubber  bulb  attached  to  a 
rubber  tube  with  a  whistle  at  the  end.  You  lightly 
press  the  bulb,  and  in  this  way  whistle  to  Cabbie  on 
top,  who  hears  the  summons  above  the  roar  of  the 
streets,  and  responds  by  opening  his  trap  door  in  the 
roof  to  receive  instructions. 

The  law  does  not  permit  the  drivers  of  these  well-ap- 
pointed and  rather  luxurious  vehicles  to  charge  more 
than  do  the  drivers  of  the  ordinary  cabs  ;  but  as  the 
new  hansoms  cost  the  drivers  more  to  hire,  and  as  they 
are  so  much  superior  to  the  old  style,  you  do  not  be- 
grudge paying  a  trifle  extra.  The  drivers  pay  for  these 
improved  hansoms  sixteen  shillings  (four  dollars)  per 
day,  except  during  "the  season,"  when  the  owners 
exact  a  guinea  per  day,  about  five  dollars. 

The  speed  with  which  the  London  cabs  are  driven  is 
something  alarming — alarming  to  a  stranger.  In  New 
York  a  cab  driver  has  some  little  regard  for  the  lives 
and  limbs  of  pedestrians  ;  in  Paris  the  horses  are  so 
poor  and^skeleton-like,  and  go  so  slow,  that  pedestrians 
have  no  fear  whatever  ;  but  in  London  you  must  look 
out  wholly  for  yourself  ;  Cabbie  will  certainly  not  look 
out  for  you.  If  he  is  engaged  by  the  course,  he  only 
has  his  destination  in  mind.  London  cab  horses  are  the 
best  horses  in  the  world  used  for  such  a  purpose.  With 
rubber  tires  to  the  wheels,  and  the  wheels  going  over 
clean  and  perfectly  smooth  roadways,  there  is  nothing 
to  obstruct  their  speed,  and  the  animals  go  like  the 
wind.  They  and  their  drivers  seem  to  stand  in  fear  of 
nothing  but  a  policeman,  and  as  London  has  good  laws 
for  regulating  vehicles,  and  as  these  laws  are  strictly 
obeyed,  the  mere  warning  look  of  a  policeman  is  re- 
spected and  obeyed. 

London  drivers  are  not  so  brutal  nor  so  ill-tempered 
as  New  York  drivers.  They  do  not,  as  a  rule,  curse  or 
swear  at  each  other  as  ours  do,  who  are  always  ready 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  17 

with  a  foul  oath.  When  a  "block"  occurs  they  take  it 
good-naturedly  and  get  out  of  it  with  the  aid  of  the 
police  as  quickly  as  possible.  Our  drivers  are  only 
satisfied  when  they  can  take  a  mean  advantage  of  their 
fellows,  get  in  their  way  and  put  them  to  inconvenience. 
It  may  be  Yankee  "  goaheadativeness, "  or  the  spirit  of 
freedom  and  independence  which  prompts  this  show  of 
ill-temper,  but  for  my  part  I  prefer  the  laughing,  jocu- 
lar, good-tempered  London  driver. 

On  my  last  visit  to  London,  where  I  stayed  one  month, 
I  saw  a  great  many  "blocks,"  but  heard  only  one 
quarrel  between  drivers,  and  that  was  not  at  all  serious. 
They  will,  however,  chaff  each  other,  saying  something 
like  this: — "Oh,  come,  pull  yourself  together  there;" 
or. "I  say,  country,  why  don't  you  learn  to  drive  before 
you  come  up  to  London?"  The  term  "up  to  London," 
by  the  way,  is  put  to  singular  use  there.  Although 
London  is  in  the  south  of  England,  you  always  go  "up 
to  London,"  if  you  even  go  from  Carlisle,  which  is  in  the 
extreme  north,  on  the  Scotch  border. 


STREET  CARS. 


There  are  no  street  cars  run  by  the  trolley,  storage  or 
any  other  electric  system  ;  no  cable  cars,  no  horse  cars  ; 
not  a  track  is  laid  for  a  surface  road  in  "the  city  "  proper. 
Many  Americans  leave  London  without  ever  seeing  a 
street  car  of  any  kind,  and  yet  in  the  metropolis  one 
thousand  street  cars  run  daily  over  one  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  of  track,  but  they  are  not  permitted  in 
crowded  thoroughfares ;  they  are  confined  to  the  out- 
lying districts.  I  have  only  seen  them  in  the  east  end. 
in  the  district  known  as  "The  Boro' "  and  near  the 
Victoria  Station.  The  street  cars  are  ' '  double  deckers  " 
and,  like  the  'buses,  they  carry  more  outside  than  inside 


18  •  LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 

passengers,  but  the  number  of  passengers  is  limited 
When  the  car  has  reached  its  limit  it  will  take  up  no 
more  passengers.  Every  passenger  has  the  right  to  a 
seat,  and,  to  use  a  paradoxical  phrase,  every  English- 
man stands  up  for  his  right  to  a  seat. 


OMNIBUSES. 


The  two  thousand  omnibuses  keep  employed  eight  or 
nine  thousand  horses.  The  number  of  miles  run  annu- 
ally by  the  omnibuses  is  five  and  a  half  millions,  and 
the  number  of  passengers  carried  not  less  than  forty- 
eight  millions. 

Such  a  heavy,  slow-going,  cumbersome  vehicle  as 
the  London  omnibus  could  not  be  used  on  our  rough- 
'a;nd-tumble  roads.  It  is  poorly  ventilated,  if  you  can 
call  it  ventilated,  for  the  windows  are  closed  and  are 
immovable.  The  only  means  of  ventilation  is  by  the 
door,  in  the  rear,  near  which  everybody  tries  to  get. 
As  fast  as  the  choice  seats  near  the  door  are  vacated, 
they  are  occupied  by  the  less  fortunate  passengers,  and 
the  last  comer  is  always  obliged  to  take  the  worst  place, 
which  is  nearest  the  front.  But  in  fine  weather  a  man 
never  gets  inside  while  there  is  a  vacant  seat  on  top, 
and  it  is  no  strange  sight  to  see  women  occupying  out- 
side seats  to  escape  the  stifling  air  inside. 
;  Nor  does  wet  weather  deter  an  Englishman  from  tak- 
'  fng  an  open  air  seat.  Most  Englishmen  wear  a  ' '  mackih- 
■^osh"  in  threateniiig  weatlier  and  there's  ia  great  deal 
of  such  weather  in  London.  To  every  seat  on  the  top 
of  a  'bus  there  is  attached  a  woolen-lined  leather  apron 
to  protect  the  knees,  and  with  an  umbrella,  which  is 
always  part  of  an  Englishman's  costume,  they  manage 
to  keep  perfectly  dry. 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  19 

The  omnibuses  are  so  freely  used  for  advertising  pur- 
poses, the  outside  is  so  nearly  covered  with  attractive 
and  gaudy  signs  of  business  houses  that  it  is  exceedingly 
difficult  to  read  or  discover  the  route  or  destination  of 
the  vehicle.  You  may  be  looking  for  Blackwall  or 
Putney,  but  you  will  read  "Pears'  Soap,"  "Nestle's 
Food,"  or  "  Mappin  &  Webb's  Razors." 

The  'buses  do  not  confine  themselves  to  the  middle  of 
the  roadway  and  allow  passengers  to  pick  and  fight 
their  way  through  a  crowd  of  vehicles,  New  York-like  ; 
they  pull  up  to  the  curb  to  allow  passengers  to  enter  or 
leave  without  the  least  possibility  of  danger  or  trouble. 
Conductors  will  also  leave  their  perch,  apjjroach  the 
sidewalk  (Anglice,  pavement)  to  consult  or  advise  with 
a  prospective  passenger  who  is  in  doubt  as  to  which 
Taus  he  should  take.  Time  seems  of  no  importance  : 
they  are  not  in  such  a  rush  or  whirl  of  excitement  as  we 
are.  Whether  from  the  excessive  competition  or  from 
some  other  cause  I  know  not :  I  do  know  that  public 
servants  in  England  are  much  more  civil  and  polite  than 
they  are  in  this  ' '  free  "  country. 

There  are  rules  which  control  London  omnibuses, 
and  these  it  is  the  duty  of  the  police  to  strictly  enforce. 
A  'bus  is  licensed  and  allowed  to  carry  only  so  many 
passengers,  and  this  license  or  limit  must  be  posted  on  a 
conspicuous  part  of  the  vehicle.  The  majority  are 
"licensed  to  carry  twenty-six  passengers  ;  twelve  inside 
and  fourteen  outside. " 

In  1890  the  London  police  force  numbered  thirteen 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-five  men,  not  counting 
the  nine  himdred  and  two  officers  who  form  a  special 
organization  in  what  is  termed  "the  city."  A  consider- 
able part  of  the  time  and  attention  of  the  police  is  de- 
voted to  governing  street  traffic.  Policemen  will  watch 
and  follow  a  'bus  for  several  blocks  if  they  think  it 
contains  more  passengers  than  the  law  allows.  When 
they  are  assured  that  this  is  the  case  they  go  to  a  magis- 


20  LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 

trate  and  lay  a  complaint,  and  then  woe  betide  the 
poor  driver  or  conductor  who  disregarded  the  law. 

The  'buses  make  special  stops  at  certain  points  of 
their  route  and  these  seem  very  long  and  prove  tedi- 
ous to  one  who  is  in  a  hurry  ;  but  if  your  time  is 
valuable  you  would  never  take  a  'bus.  They  are 
not  allowed  to  stop  when  near  or  nearing  these  special 
stopping-places,  not  even  if  a  passenger  expresses  a 
desire  to  alight.  I  remember  once,  simply  for  informa- 
tion, asking  the  driver  to  stop  in  the  middle  of  Trafalgar 
square,  just  as  we  were  passing  Nelson's  monument,  on 
the  way  to  the  Strand,  cityward.  "Well,"  sai-d  the 
polite  but  uneducated  Jehu,  "you  cam 't  expect  me  to 
get  a  four-shilling  summons  for  a  penny  fare,  can  you  ?" 
meaning  that  if  he  pulled  up  where  I  indicated  he  would 
be  summoned  the  next  day  on  the  complaint  of  a  vigi- 
lant "bobby"  and  be  obliged  to  pay  four  shillings  for 
accommodating  me. 

In  American  street  cars  or  omnibuses— excepting,  as 
I  remember  in  San  Jose,  California,  a  passenger  who 
rides  only  a  few  blocks  helps  to  pay  the  fare  of  the 
man  who  rides  the  full  length  of  the  road,  for  the 
charge  to  both  is  the  same.  It  is  not  so  (mis)  managed 
in  England.  The  charge  there  is  by  distance,  about 
one  penny  (two  cents)  a  mile  and  you  pay  according  to 
the  distance  you  ride.  There  are  two  or  three  lines  of 
omnibuses  whose  only  fare  is  a  half-penny  (one  cent). 
One  line  runs  between  Westminster  bridge  and  Trafal- 
gar square.  They  pick  up  no  passengers  between  the 
two  points.  They  each  carry  only  twelve  passengers  ; 
there  are  no  outside  seats. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  pilfering  going  on  among 
omnibus  conductors,  and  drivers  also,  for  they  divide 
the  spoils  ;  and  the  company  winks  at  it,  knowing  that 
the  pay  of  these  men  is  not  large.  The  company  is 
satisfied  if  it  receives  a  fair  average  return,  but  in  this 
way  it  puts  a  premium  on  dishonesty.    There  is  no  check 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  21 

against  the  conductors — no  mechanical  contrivance  to 
record  fares.  They  are  supposed  to  enter  every  fare 
and  the  exact  amount  they  receive  from  each  passenger 
on  a  paper  slip  placed  in  a  frame,  the  frame  being  fast- 
ened to  the  inside  of  the  omnibus  door,  but  it  is  only  a 
supposition.  Passengers  are  requested  to  see  that  the 
amount  paid  is  properly  entered,  but  the  request  is 
wholly  unheeded.  It  is,  to  say  the  least,  a  very  careless 
way  of  keeping  accounts,  and  invites  dishonesty.  On 
most  lines  they  use  tickets  showing  the  amount  each 
passenger  pays,  but  the  conductor  sometimes  forgets 
to  hand  you  a  ticket.  An  Inspector  will  occasionally 
mount  a  'bus  to  see  that  all  the  passengers  are  supplied 
with  tickets,  and  then  the  conductor  with  a  treacherous 
memory  has  reason  to  be  sorry.  Drivers  are  paid  eight 
shillings,  conductors  six  shillings,  per  day,  for  fifteen 
hours'  work. 


ON  THE  TOP  OF  A  'BUS. 


The  driver  is  generally  a  jolly,  red-faced  fellow  and 
very  smartly  dressed,  especially  on  Sunday.  He  then 
always  wears  a  "  top  hat : "  in  winter  it  is  of  black  silk, 
in  summer  a  pearl  gray  felt  with  a  wide  mourning  band 
to  set  it  off.  His  coat  is  often  a  double-breasted  drab 
cassimere,  and  in  the  top  buttonhole  of  the  left  lapel  is  a 
large  and  loud  nose-gay.  A  showy  scarf  and  a  pair  of 
heavy,  tan-colored  driving  gloves  complete  his  costume. 
He  makes  quite  a  picture  as  he  sits  on  the  box,  with  a 
leather  strap  across  his  waist  which  holds  him  securely 
in  his  seat,  and  a  black  leather  apron  to  protect  the 
lower  part  of  his  body  from  wind  and  rain.  He  carries 
a  showy  whip  with  a  very  long  and  loose  thong,  with 
the  end  of  which  he  can  pick  off  a  fly  from  the  ear  of 
his  leader. 


23  LONDON  ON  WHEELS. 

The  'bus  driver  is  permitted  to  smoke  while  on  duty. 
He  comforts  himself  with  a  briarwood  pipe  unless  a 
generous  passenger  treats  him  to  a  cigar,  for  he  is  not 
above  accepting  a  small  present. 

Leopold  Rothschild,  who  lives  on  a  street  through 

which  omnibuses  pass,  has  taken  a  great  fancy  to  these 

;  men  and  in  the  autumn  he  presents  a  pair  of  pheasants 

to  every  omnibus  driver  and  conductor  who  passes  his 

door. 

Everybody  who  has  visited  London  knows  that  the 
best  way  of  seeing  the  city  is  from  the  top  of  a  'bus. 
Get  a  front  seat,  next  to  the  driver,  hand  him  a  tip  in 
the  shape  of  a  sixpence  and  ask  him  a  few  questions. 
You  will  find  that  he  is  intelligent,  well-informed  on 
e very-day  subjects,  quick-witted  and  a  judge  of  human 
nature. 

I  had  a  very  interesting  ride  last  summer  on  the  top 
of  a  "Kilburn"  'bus.  Some  of  them  start  from  Vic- 
toria station,  and  run  northwest  to  Kilburn,  through 
some  very  beautiful  thoroughfares,  in  which  reside  many 
titled  people  and  some  prominent  members  of  London 
society. 

In  Grosvenor  place,  soon  after  starting  from  the  sta- 
tion, the  driver  will  point  out,  for  instance,  the  residences 
of  the  Dukesof  Northumberland,  Grafton  and  Portland  ; 
that  of  the  Earl  of  Scarborough,  at  No.  i  Grosvenor 
place  ;  the  Dowager  Lady  de  Rothschild  ;  Sir  Edward 
Cecil  Guinness  ;  that  of  the  late  Right  Hon.  William  H. 
§mith  ;  also  the  homes  of  a  number  of  members  of  par- 
liament, more  or  less  well-known. 

The  'bus  goes  a  short  distance  through  Piccadilly  and 
passes  the  residences  of  Baron  Ferdinand  Rothschild, 
:  Lord  Rothschild,  the  Duke  of  Wellington  and  the  Duke 
,  ,  -of  Hamilton,  in  Hamilton  pla,ce. 
,  .Then  it  turns  into  one  of  London's  most  aristocratic 
^;jS,treet§,  ;Park  Lane  (alongside  Hyde  Park),  where  reside 
•.  tjie  Duchess  of  Somerset,  the  Marquis, of,, Londonderry, 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  28 

Lord  Brassey,  Alfred  Rothschild,  Lord  Dudley,  the 
Countess  of  Dudley,  Lord  Grosvenor,  cousin  to  the 
Duke  of  Westminster,  and  the  Duke  of  Westminster 
himself.  Kilbum  "buses  also  start  from  Charing 
Cross,  in  Dtmcannon  Street,  opposite  the  Charing  Cross 
Hotel. 

A  'bus  marked  "Hammersmith"  will  take  you  west- 
ward, through  Piccadilly,  past  the  clubs,  the  parks, 
some  stylish  shops,  and  fashionable  residences.  You 
will  see  St.  James's  Palace  and  historic  Addison  Road, 
en  route,  and  you  can  ride  across  Hammersmith  Bridge. 
You  can  also  go  to  Kew  Gardens  and  to  the  famous 
"  Star  and  Garter,"  at  Richmond,  by  'bus. 

Here's  another  very  interesting  ride.  If  you  are  at 
Oxford  Circus  you  will  see  omnibuses  with  the  horses' 
heads  turned  eastward,  and  you  will  hear  the  Cockney 
conductor  calling  out  "  Benk,  benk.  Charing  Cross, 
benk."  Take  a  ride  with  him.  The  vehicle  goes 
through  Regent  street,  Trafalgar  Square,  the  Strand, 
Fleet  street,  then  down  Cheapside  (which  is  anything 
but  cheap),  and  Comhill,  where  there  is  neither  com 
nor  hill.  At  the  end  of  Comhill  you  see  the  most 
crowded  and  bustling  crush  of  vehicles  you  ever  saw  in 
your  life.  To  the  right  is  the  Mansion  House  (correspond- 
ing with  our  City  Hall) ;  a  little  further  on  ' '  The  Monu- 
ment," with  its  gold  torch  at  top,  looms  up;  immediately 
in  front  is  The  Royal  Exchange,  with  its  Peabody  statue, 
while  to  the  left  stands  the  demure  Bank  of  England,  as 
solid  from  a  financial  point  of  view  as  it  is  architecturally. 
On  this  route  you  pass  and  have  in  view  The  National 
Gallery,  Landseer's  lions,  several  famous  hotels  and 
theatres,  the  Law  Courts,  Temple  Bar,  the  principal 
newspaper  establishments,  and  St.  Paul's  Church.  The 
same  'bus,  if  you  wish  to  pursue  your  journey  eastward, 
will  take  you  through  Leadenhall  street  and  into  the 
very  heart  of  Whitechapel — even  to  Blackwall  and  the 
docks,  if  your  taste  lies  in  that  direction. 


34  LONDON  ON   WHEELS. 

There  is  no  better  way  of  seeing  London  than  from 
the  top  of  a  'bus  if  you  get  a  seat  next  to  an  old  and 
wide-awake  driver,  and  the  cost  is  but  a  few  pennies. 
There  are  one  hundred  and  forty  different  routes  in  the 
whole  city  to  choose  from. 


THE  CITY  TRAFFIC. 


One  of  the  busiest  thoroughfares  is  that  narrow  street 
called  "the  Strand,"  where  it  is  crossed  by  Wellington 
street.  You  drive  north,  through  Wellington  street, 
past  the  Lyceum  Theatre  to  get  to  Holbom,  Covent 
Garden  Market  and  elsewhere  ;  southward  there  is 
gfreat  traffic  over  Waterloo  Bridge,  leading  to  the  Sur- 
rey side  of  London,  while  from  the  east  and  west  come 
continuous  streams  of  omnibuses,  cabs,  carriages  and 
heavy  wagons  and  freight  trucks.  Policemen  stand  in 
the  middle  of  the  roadway  and  regulate  this  enormous 
traffic  by  merely  raising  a  white-cotton-gloved  hand. 
They  are  calm  and  immovable,  and  seem  to  pay  not  the 
slightest  heed  to  their  own  safety  amid  the  crowded 
crush  of  vehicles  about  them.  All  come  to  a  standstill 
before  the  stiff  and  fearless  "  bobby."  When  by  wav- 
ing his  hand  he  directs  that  a  certain  stream  of  vehicles 
may  proceed  this  way  or  that,  it  proceeds,  but  not  until 
he  gives  permission. 

London  Bridge  is  said  to  be  the  greatest  thoroughfare 
in  the  world.  More  vehicles  and  foot  passengers  cross 
it  than  pass  through  any  other  street,  and  special  pro- 
vision is  made  for  vehicular  traffic.  In  New  York,  for 
instance,  a  heavily  laden  four-house  truck  or  wagon 
may  block  Broadway  for  a  great  distance.  If  you  are 
behind  it  in  a  phaeton  or  light  carriage,  you  must  wait 
till  the  driver  in  front  of  you,  who  may  be  sullen  and 
obstinate,  leisurely  moves  out  of  the  way.     No  matter 


LONDON  ON  WHEELS.  85 

in  how  much  haste  you  are — you  may  be  trying  to  catch 
a  train  or  an  ocean  steamer — you  must  wait.  Not  so  in 
London's  most  crowded  streets.  On  London  Bridge,  for 
instance,  slow-going  and  heavily-laden  vehicles  must 
keep  to  the  side  near  the  curb  and  pavement,  while  car- 
riages, cabs  and  light  vehicles  are  allowed  the  middle 
of  the  roadway  for  quick  movement.  That  part  of  the 
roadway  directly  next  to  the  curb  has  a  smooth  surface, 
and  there  is  also  a  smooth  surface  about  a  foot  wide  for 
the  outer  wheel  of  heavy  wagons — this  only  on  London 
Bridge  and  in  a  few  other  very  busy  thoroughfares. 
It  is  a  capital  plan,  and  gives  satisfaction  to  all  con- 
cerned. 


ADVICE  FROM  CHARLES  DICKENS. 


But  in  such  a  vast  city,  with  such  enormous  traffic, 
nothing  can  prevent  great  loss  of  life  and  accidents  in- 
numerable from  crossing  the  streets.  The  point  men- 
tioned above  is  only  one  of  the  busy  parts  of  one  street — 
the  Strand — from  another  point,  down  by  the  Law  Courts 
and  Temple  Bar,  it  is  said  that  two  hundred  more  or 
less  mangled  bodies  are  sent  to  the  Charing  Cross  Hos- 
pital every  year. 

The  present  Charles  Dickens,  in  his  "  Dictionary  of 
London,"  thinks  it  worth  while  to  suggest  that  the  only 
way  to  go  from  curb  to  curb  is  to  make  up  your  mind 
what  course  you  will  take,  and  then  stick  to  it.  London 
cabbies  will  thus  divine  your  intentions.  To  change 
your  mind  while  crossing  is  to  confuse  the  cabmen,  and 
cause  you  (so  Dickens  suggests)  to  make  your  return 
journey  to  America  in  the  form  of  freight. 

As  all  vehicles  in  London  are  driven  to  the  left,  keep 
to  the  left  curb.  I  found  this  suggestion  of  Oakey 
Hall's  valuable:  "As  you  leave  a  curb,  look  to  the 
right ;  as  you  approach  a  curb,  look  to  the  left," 


LONDON  HOTELS. 


Until  the  year  1880  there  wa*  only  one  hotel  in  London 
that  came  up  to  the  expectations  of  American  travelers, 
which  compared  in  size  and  appointments  with  Ameri- 
can hotels  of  the  first-class.  This  was  the  Langham 
Hotel  in  Portland  place.  When  the  Langham  was  built, 
nearly  thirty  years  ago,  and  for  several  subsequent  years, 
as  the  writer  can  attest,  for  he  was  a  guest  therein  1871, 
and  has  been  a  frequent  visitor  there  since,  the  Lang- 
ham was  large  enough  to  accommodate  all  American 
tourists  in  London. 

This,  however,  has  been  greatly  changed.  Americans 
at  that  time  merely  passed  through  London  ;  they  took  it 
as  a  sort  of  stepping-stone  en  route  for  Paris.  In  the  days 
of  the  Second  Empire,  when  Louis  Napoleon  wielded 
the  sceptre,  and  Eugenie  set  the  fashions  for  the  civil- 
ized world,  Americans  flocked  to  Paris  like  so  many 
sheep.  Then  it  was  said  :  "  See  Paris  and  die."  With 
the  downfall  of  the  empire  and  its  accompanying  glories 
our  compatriots  found  Paris  less  attractive,  and  they 
discovered  what  everybody  knows  —  that  London  is, 
in  many  respects,  the  most  interesting  city  in  the 
world.  A  presentation  to  Her  Majesty,  and  hob-nob- 
bing with  the  Prince  of  Wales,  are  the  things  now  most 
desired,  and  to  be  in  the  very  height  of  fashion,  one 
must  hire  a  London  house  for  "the  season," — May,  June 
and  July. 


LONDON  HOTELS.  p 


THE  LANGHAM  HOTEL. 


But  this  is  a  digression.     The  ground,  the  structure 
and  tfee  furnishing  of  the  Langham  Hotel,  which  was 
formally  opened  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  June,  1865, 
cost  a  million  and  a  half  dollars,  and  it  was  a  wonder 
and  a  revelation  to  the  English  people.  Its  noble  granite 
front  of  two  hundred  and  twelve  feet,  its  dining  hall,  . 
forty-seven  by  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet- ;  its  music ' 
room,  drawing-room,  and  its  public  rooms  generally,  ''y 
were  on  such  a  gprand  scale  that  Londoners  opened  wide 
their  eyes  in  astonishment  and  admiration.     The  Lang- 
ham,  by  liberal  outlay  of  money  and  constant  improve-      . 
ment,'  keeps  up  with  the  times,  and  notwithstanding  that  '  \ 
many  splendid  establishments  have  been  erected  within    . , 
the  last  decade,  it  retains  its  place  in  the  very  front    .| 
rank.     People  who  have  not  seen  the  interior  of  the    ^^ 
Langham  Hotel,  London,  since  1890,  will  notice  some    ,. 
changes  and  marked  improvements.      Heretofore  the  ^  ^.^ 
dining-room  was  only  entered  by  a  comparatively  dark  ^.  _ 
and  roundabout  way,  near  the  drawing-room  ;  now  it  is  /;"j 
approached  from  "the  office"  direct,  through  a  wide  and/^   1 
handsome  "vestibule,"  which  is  flooded  with  light  and    ' 
richly  furnished,  making  an  appropriate  entrance  to  the  ,  .  ; 
beautiful  dining-room.     The  drawing-room,  which,  for,  ^^ 
its  size,  its  pleasing  shape  and  rich  furniture  is  yet  one    .. 
of  the  most  attractive  salons  in  England,  has  also  been  .,^^ 
gfreatly  improved. 

Colonel  Sanderson,  its  first  manager,  an  American,  died  ,,, 
many  years  ago.  He  was  brother  to  Harry  Sanderson,  , ., 
famous  in  his  day  in  New  York  as  a  pianist.  But  English  ;, , 
capitalists  and  business  men  are  not  given  to  making  .  . 
changes,  and  so  we  find  that  Mr.  Walter  Gosden,  who  .- 
was  in  the  service  of  the  Langham  under  Mr.  Sander-, 
son's  management,  has  been  for  many  years  and  is  now 
the  manager  of  the  hotel.  You  can  get  a  nice  room  with 


28  LONDON  HOTELS. 

beautiful  outlook,  and  a  very  good  breakfast  here  for 
less  than  two  dollars  a  day.  This  estimate  includes  the 
charge  for  attendance.  Address,  Walter  Gosden,  Port- 
land place,  Regent  street,  W. 


THE  GRAND. 


During  the  past  twelve  years,  however,  many  superb 
buildings  for  hotel  purposes  have  been  erected  in  the 
English  metropolis.  Among  the  largest  and  most  popu- 
lar are  the  three  grouped  together,  as  it  were,  in  one 
short  street,  Northumberland  avenue,  which,  only  two 
blocks  long,  extends  in  a  southerly  direction  from  Tra- 
falgar square  to  the  banks  of  the  Thames.  These  are 
the  Grand,  the  Metropole  and  the  Victoria,  to  name 
them  in  the  order  they  were  erected.  So  popular  has 
this  cluster  of  hotels  become,  and  so  many  well-to-do 
Americans  do  they  attract,  that  property  in  the  neigh- 
borhood has  largely  increased  in  value,  and  the  trades- 
people blame  the  "Yankees"  for  the  increased  rents 
they  have  to  pay,  never  speaking  of  the  increased  pa- 
tronage which  they  enjoy  from  these  same  "Yankees.". 

The  features  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  the  longest  estab- 
lished of  these  three,  are  well-known,  but  former  pa- 
trons will  scarcely  recognize  the  reception-room,  which, 
with  its  new,  solid-looking  furniture  and  rich,  dark  dec- 
orations, is  now  one  of  the  most  attractive  apartments 
of  its  kind  to  be  seen,  even  in  these  days  of  the  uphol- 
sterer and  decorator.  While  artistic  and  costly,  it  has 
an  air  of  utility  and  comfort  which  you  will  not  find  very 
often  repeated.  The  drawing-room  of  the  Grand  was 
being  "done  up"  during  last  winter,  and  "it  is  now 
just  as  handsome  as  the  reception-rroom. '*  Cable, 
Grajiotel,  London. 


LONDON  HOTELS.  af( 

HOTEL  METROPOLE. 


To  American  visitors  in  London  the  Metropole  is 
one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  more  recently  built 
hotels.  Situated  in  Northumberland  Avenue,  and  being 
replete  with  the  latest  conveniences,  no  hotel  in  the 
metropolis  approaches  nearer  to  the  ideal  which  was 
first  evolved  in  the  United  States  of  the  model  modem 
caravansary.  To  dwell  upon  the  subject  of  the  gene- 
ral characteristics  of  the  Hotel  Metropole  would  be 
superfluous  ;  they  and  it  are  too  well  known  to  Ameri- 
cans who  have  visited  London,  but  a  short  description 
of  the  celebrated  "  grand  salon  "  of  the  Metropole,  as  it 
has  lately  been  refitted  and  decorated,  will  be  read  with 
interest. 

The  scheme  of  adornment  is  most  tasteful,  and  per- 
fectly and  harmoniously  carried  out  in  all  details.  Two 
shades  of  maroon  in  contrast  with  white  and  gold  are 
the  leading  features  of  the  ensemble,  and  the  general 
effect  of  this  combination  is  extremely  felicitous  and 
pleasing.  The  wall  space  between  the  lofty  windows 
and  the  immense  mirrors  is  covered  with  stamped 
Utrecht  velvet  of  a  soft,  natural  tint  and  richness  of 
design.  The  pillars  are  painted  in  maroon,  with  gilt 
capitals,  an  arrangement  of  color  which  is  at  Once  novel 
and  agreeable  to  the  eye.  The  patterns  on  the  flu  tings 
of  the  beams  which  support  the  roof  are  picked  out  in 
gold  on  a  white  ground. 

The  roof  panels  are  covered  with  dull  gold  of  a  pecu- 
liarly restful  tint,  and  the  design  introduced  in  various 
portions  of  the  general  decoration  have  an  unusually 
aesthetic  character.  The  electric  lights,  of  which  there 
are  a  considerable  number,  are  surrounded  by  cut  crys- 
tal pendants  and  greatly  enhance  the  brilliancy  of  the 
illumination.  In  the  center  of  the  room  is  a  palm,  the 
leaves  of  which  shadow  a  space  thirty  feet  in  circurafer- 


30  LONDON  HOTELS. 

ence.  It  towers  toward  the  ceiling,  and  for  grace  and 
beauty  is  not  easily  equalled  in  Florida,  nor  greatly 
excelled  even  in  California.  Tree  palms  are  placed  at 
intervals  throughout  the  spacious  room,  producing  a 
pleasing  effect  of  verdure,  and  each  of  the  separate 
tables  is  adorned  with  flowers  ;  while  the  rich  candela- 
bra, with  handsome  shades  placed  upon  each  table, 
afford  the  subdued  light  which  is  preferable  to  the 
cruder  glare  of  the  former  style  of  lighting.  The  gen- 
eral coup  d'ceil  in  the  grand  salon  is  singularly  graceful 
and  attractive. 

A  large  number  of  public  and  private  banquets  take' 
place  at  the  Hotel  Metropole,  this  being  one  of  the 
recognized  resorts  for  ceremonies  of  that  description. 

At  the  Metropole  the  "  show  "  apartments  are  known 
as  the  Eugenie  and  Marie  Antoinette  suites,  and  they 
have  afforded  many  a  descriptive  writer  material  for  an 
article.  Probably  no  hotel  sleeping  chambers  equal 
the"Be  for  rich  and  costly  decoration — for  the  laces,  the 
frescoes  and  luxurious  furniture.  The  reader  will  know 
that  ample  means  were  at  command  when  told  that  in 
the  selection  of  site,  in  constructing  and  furnishing  the 
Metropole,  half  a  million  sterling  (two  and  a  half  mil- 
lion dollars)  were  expended.  And  such  a  success  has 
the  Metropole  proved  that  the  company  were  encour- 
aged to  invest  further  in  hotel  property  with  the  result 
that  they  now  own  and  control  three  hotels  of  the  first 
class  in  London,  also  five  other  hotels  in  different  parts  of 
Europe.  Among  these  are  the  Metropole  at  Monte  Carlo, 
the  Metropole  at  Cannes,  and  the  Metropole  at  Brighton, 
the  last  named  being  the  latest  hotel  erected  by  this  com- 
pany, and  one  which  will  compare  in  many  respects  with 
the  most  renowned  hotels  of  the  world.  Rooms  at  the 
London  Metropole  from  three  shillings  and  sixpence  to 
one  pound  per  day  ,  breakfast  from  two-and-six-pence  to 
four  shillings ;  table  d'hote  luncheon,  three-and-six ; 
table  d'hote  dinner,  five  shillings— one  dollar  and  a  half. 


LONDON  HOTELS.  81 

HOTEL  VICTORIA. 


The  latest  constructed  of  these  three  hotels  is  the 
Hotel  Victoria.  Printed  words  cannot  easily  convey  to 
the  mind  an  adequate  idea  of  the  magnificence  of  this 
structure.  The  public  rooms  of  the  Victoria  are  palatial 
in  their  proportions  and  appointments,  the  g^rand  stair- 
case is  a  marvel  of  beauty,  and  the  sleeping  rooms  con- 
tain all  the  conveniences  and  contrivances  found  in 
modern  hotels  of  the  highest  class.  Besides  the  com- 
forts characteristic  of  an  English  house,  and  the  luxurious 
cuisine  of  a  continental  hotel,  the  attention  and  the  dis- 
cipline which  rule  at  the  Victoria  remind  one  of  an 
American  hotel. 

You  need  have  no  fear  that  the  cards  of  friends  call- 
ing will  not  be  promptly  sent  to  you  :  nor  is  there  any 
delay  here  about  the  delivery  of  telegrams,  letters  and 
packages.  Letters  are  placed  in  your  box  up  to  a  cer- 
tain hour  of  the  evening,  after  that  hour  they  are  sent 
to  your  room.  There  is  a  package-room,  also  a  ' '  pack- 
age clerk,"  who  receives  all  bundles,  signs  therefor,  and 
enters  the  same  in  a  book,  so  that  it  may  be  known 
immediately  if  a  package  has  been  received  for  a  guest. 

If  a  telegram  or  a  card  from  a  caller  is  received  and 
the  key  to  your  room  is  not  in  its  box,  thus  indicating 
that  you  are  in  your  room,  or  at  least  in  the  house,  a 
servant  is  immediately  dispatched  to  your  room,  while 
a  little  page  in  livery  is  started  off  through  all  the  halls 
and  public  rooms  calling  out  in  a  loud  voice  your  room 
number  in  this  fashion,  ' '  Number  630,  please. "  If  you 
are  anywhere  under  the  roof  you  are  sure  to  be  found 
by  this  excellent  method. 

A  feature  of  the  Hotel  Victoria  is  a  corps  of  valets. 
There  are  seven  floors  in  the  building,  each  accommo- 
dating about  sixty  or  seventy  guests,  and  to  each  floor  a 
valet  is  assigned  who  performs  all  the  ordinary  duties 
of  such  a  servant,    Shoes  are  not  carried  down  below  to 


82  LONDON  HOTELS. 

be  mixed  and  confused  with  hundreds  of  others,  but  are 
polished  by  the  valet  on  your  floor.  The  valet  also 
enters  your  room  during  your  absence,  removes  all  the 
clothes  he  finds  hanging  or  lying  about,  brushes  and 
folds  the  same  and  puts  them  back  neatly.  It  is  a  con- 
venience, returning  to  your  hotel  late  in  the  evening 
and  in  haste  to  dress  for  dinner  or  the  theatre,  to  find 
your  evening  suit  nicely  folded  and  brushed,  ready  to 
put  on.  These  and  other  provisions  for  the  comfort  of 
guests  indicate  the  general  care  in  management  and  the 
close  attention  to  detail  which  obtain  at  the  Victoria, 
and  which  have  given  it  its  wide  reputation.  The  ap- 
pointments include  a  billiard-room  with  five  full-sized 
tables.  Good  rooms  on  fifth  floor,  a  dollar  and  a  half  a 
day.  This  includes  attendance  and  lights.  Breakfast 
from  two  shillings  to  three-and-six  ;  table  d'hote  lunch- 
eon about  the  same  ;  table  d'hote  dinner,  one  dollar  and 
a  quarter.  Manager,  G.  Reeves-Smith.  Cable  and 
telegraphic  address,  Victoriola,  London, 


LONG'S  HOTEL, 


There  is  another  trio  of  London  hotel's  that  may  be 
groupecf  together,  on  account  of  their  proximity— the 
Hotel  Albemarle  (Albemarle  street  and  Piccadilly), 
Long's  hotel  (New  Bond  street),  and  the  Hotel  Bristol 
(Burlington  Gardens,  between  Bond  and  Regent  streets). 
The  last  two  are  but  a  few  yards  apart.  They  are  all 
comparatively  new  buildings,  and  new  also  in  name  and 
history,  except  Long's,  which  was  erected  on  the  ground 
where  the  first  Long's  stood  for  tivo  hundred  years. 
Long's,  though  not  of  great  capacity,  has  a  larger  num- 
ber of  richly  furnished  bedrooms  than  the  Ponce  de 
Leon,  in  St.  Augustine,  Fla,  For  the  beauty  of  the  ex- 
terior and  the  magnificent  surroundings  of  the  Ponce  de 
Leon,  as  well  as  for  the  Oriental  splendor  of  its  public 


LONDON  HOTELS.  88 

rooms,  no  words  of  praise  can  be  too  lavish.  But  the 
two  hotels,  "the  Ponce"  and  Long's,  cannot  be  com- 
pared ;  their  characteristics  are  so  different.  One  is  like 
a  royal  palace  in  the  country,  the  other  resembles  a 
gentleman's  quiet,  city  home.  Long's  differs  from  every 
other  hotel  I  have  seen  in  this  respect,  that  all  of  its 
bedrooms  have  rich  hangings,  and  the  walls  of  each  are 
decorated  with  works  of  art.  The  apartments  are  not 
cold  and  bare,  as  are  the  bedrooms  of  most  hotels  ;  they 
suggest  home-like  comforts,  and  are  furnished  in  the 
best  taste.  The  walls  of  the  dining-room  at  Long's  are 
hung  with  Gobelin  tapestry,  and  on  the  whole  it  may  be 
called  a  beautifully  appointed  hotel.  A.  Hartmann, 
manager. 


THE  BRISTOL. 


They  have  some  very  attractive  hotels  in  Boston  ;  the 
Brunswick,  for  example,  and  everybody  has  heard  of 
the  beautiful  Spanish  hotels  in  St.  Augustine,  and  the 
great  Auditorium  in  Chicago.  I  have  lived  at  all  these 
houses,  also  at  the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  Coronado  Beach, 
and  at  California's  other  famous  house,  the  Hotel  del 
Monte,  at  Monterey,  with  its  126  acres  for  a  garden. 
There  are  few  or  none  that  are  more  gorgeous  than 
these,  and  they  always  come  to  one's  memory  when  dis- 
cussing the  best  hotels,  but  certainly  New  York  City 
cannot  boast  of  a  hotel  interior  that  equals  in  tasteful 
decorations  those  of  the  Bristol  in  London.  It  is  a  gem 
in  its  way. 

A  veritable  bijou  of  a  room  is  the  reception  room  of 
the  Bristol.  It  is  minus  the  onyx  tables  and  costl^^ 
paintings  you  see  at  the  Ponce  de  Leon  in  St.  Augustine, 
and  the  "  gold  "  chairs  that  dazzle  your  eyes  in  so  many 
American  hotels  :  everything  in  this  room  at  the  Bristol, 


34  LONDON  HOTELS. 

from  the  soft  carpet  on  the  floor  to  the  decoration  on  the 
ceiling,  is  rich,  but  also  quiet  in  tone — soothing  and  har- 
monious. The  Royal  Academy,  the  Burlington  Arcade 
(a  fashionable  shopping  street)  and  Piccadilly  are  all 
within  a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  Bristol.  The  Bristol  is 
patronized  by  such  well-known  New  Yorkers  as  the 
Vanderbilts,  the  Twomblys  and  the  owner  of  the  New 
York  World,  and  also  by  princes  of  the  old  world  and 
those  of  blue  blood  from  everywhere.  It  is  nothing  if 
not  elegant  and  aristocratic'  In  the  summer  of  1892, 
during  my  visit  to  the  Bristol,  among  the  titled  gfuests 
occupying  suites  of  apartments  there  was  the  Due  d* 
Alba,  brother  to  the  King  of  Italy.  Telegrdph  or  write 
to  the  Bristol  Hotel,  Burlington  Gardens,  London,  W. 


THE  HOTEL  ALBEMARLE. 


Although  rebuilt  and  opened  as  recently  as  the  begin- 
ning of  1890,  the  Hotel  Albemarle  has  already  gained  a 
position  and  reputation  as  one  of  the  most  select  and 
fashionable  hotels  in  London.  Its  situation,  to  begin 
with,  has  undoubtedly  had  much  to  do  with  its  imme- 
diate success.  It  conspicuously  fronts  the  north  end  of 
the  celebrated  thoroughfare,  St.  James's  street,  in  the 
centre  of  the  court  quarter  of  London,  and  stands  at  the 
comer  of  Albemarle  street  and  Piccadilly.  No  better 
location  for  a  hotel,  destined  to  be  at  once  aristocratic 
and  accessible  to  the  traveling  public,  could  have  been 
selected.  Towering  high  above  the  surrounding  build- 
ings, the  Albemarle,  with  its  double  fajade,  seventy-five 
feet  on  Piccadilly  and  seventy-five  feet  on  the  street 
from  which  it  takes  its  name,  cannot  fail  to  attract  obser- 
vation. It  is  built  of  terra  cotta  in  the  Francis  I.  style 
of  architecture,  and  the  general  effect  is  both  graceful 
and  imposing. 


LONDON  HOTELS.       '  85 

The  main  entrance  is  in  Albemarle  street.  The  in- 
terior of  the  hotel  is  furnished  and  decorated  in  a 
variety  of  styles  of  the  Renaissance  period.  The  furni- 
ture and  decoration  of  the  dining-room,  ladies'  drawing- 
room  on  the  ground  floor,  the  fitting  and  decoration  of 
the  hall  and  staircase,  are  treated  in  the  style  of  Francis 
I.  The  style  of  Henri  II.  has  been  adopted  for  the 
first  and  second  floors  ;  the  third  floor  is  in  the  style  of 
Louis  XV.,  and  the  fourth  in  that  of  Louis  XIV. 
Special  mention  must  be  made  of  the  "  Rubens  Room," 
furnished  and  decorated  effectively  in  the  Louis  XV. 
style.  This  apartment  derives  its  name  from  a  fine 
painting  which  adorns  the  ceiling,  and  which  is  believed 
to  be  from  the  brush,  either  of  Rubens  himself  or  of 
one  of  his  pupils. 

The  furnishing,  fitting  and  decorating  of  the  Hotel 
Albemarle  were  effected  by  the  well-known  London 
firm  of  Shoolbred,  after  designs  from  a  famous  French 
artist.  The  building  being  of  such  recent  erection,  it  is 
scarcely  necessary  to  state  that  none  of  the  modem  im- 
provements has  been  neglected  in  its  construction. 
The  most  careful  attention  has  been  paid  to  sanitary 
arrangements,  and  the  hotel  is  lighted  throughout  by 
electricity.  In  the  two  years  which  have  elapsed  since 
it  was  opened,  it  has  quickly  become  renowned  for  the 
excellence  of  its  cuisine  and  service.  Its  wine  cellar  is 
one  of  the  choicest  in  London. 

Royalty,  the  nobility,  and  visitors  of  the  highest 
fashion  patronize  the  Hotel  Albemarle.  During  the 
London  season,  in  particular,  its  rooms  are  crowded 
with  distinguished  guests.  To  Americans,  especially, 
it  should  prove  a  most  attractive  resort,  if  only  on  ac- 
count of  the  brilliant  and  aristocratic  neighborhood  in 
which  it  is  situated.  St.  James's  Park,  St.  James's 
Palace  and  Marlborough  House  are  near  at  hand. 
Hyde  Park,  with  its  "Drive"  and  "Row,"  is  within 
five  minutes'  walk.     The  Art  Galleries,  the  theatres. 


88  LONDON  HOTELS. 

the  Opera  House,  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  the  clubs, 
Westminster  Abbey,  and  several  of  the  principal  mu- 
seums are  within  the  compass  of  a  shilling  cab  fare. 
The  best  and  most  fashionable  shops  in  London  are 
situated  in  the  near  vicinity,  in  Piccadilly  and  in  Bond 
and  Regent  streets,  while  Oxford  street,  where  many  of 
the  cheaper  shops  are  to  be  found,  is  but  a  short  dis- 
tance off — in  short,  it  may  be  said  that  the  Hotel  Albe- 
marle stands  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  fashionable  life 
and  business  of  London. 

Interest  attaches  to  Albemarle  street  itself  as  an  his- 
torical thoroughfare.  During  the  last  century  it  en- 
joyed peculiar  reputation  as  a  place  of  residence  at  the 
west  end  of  the  metropolis,  and  not  a  little  of  this  old- 
time  prestige  clings  to  it  still.  The  Prince  of  Wales, 
afterwards  George  the  Second,  once  lived  in  Albemarle 
street,  and  when  Louis  the  Eighteenth  of  France  was  in 
England  in  1814  he  made  it  his  place  of  stay,  and  held, 
at  the  now  defunct  "  Grillon's  Hotel,"  his  receptions  of 
the  leaders  of  the  English  nobility.  The  famous  pub- 
lishing house,  Murray's,  through  whose  doors  have 
passed  such  celebrities  in  the  world  of  letters  as  Byron, 
Scott,  Southey,  Crabbe,  Hallam,  Tom  Moore,  Gifford, 
Lockhart,  Washington  Irving  and  many  others,  is  situ- 
ated immediately  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  Hotel. 
You  would  never  imagine  that  it  was  a  publishing  house 
or  business  house  of  any  kind.  It  looks  like  an  ordinary 
private  dwelling,  and  the  only  sign  on  the  building  is 
one  small,  dull  brass  plate  on  the  front  wall  upon  which 
is  engraved  ' '  Mr.  Murray. " 

The  proprietor  of  the  Hotel  Albemarle  is  Mr.  A.  L. 
Vogel.  He  is  to  be  congratulated  on  the  rapid  success 
he  has  met  with  in  his  efforts  to  establish  one  of  the 
best  of  London  hotels.  Mr.  Vogel  has  purchased  the 
freehold  of  property  adjoining  the  Albemarle  Hotel, 
and  a  large  addition  to  the  hotel  will  be  erected  ptes. 
ehtly,  thus  affording  room  for  a  new  salle  a  ttiariger  and 
some  thirty  more  bedrooms, 


LONDON  HOTELS.  87 

Mr.  Vogel  issues  as  a  "Guide  to  London  "  a  compre- 
hensive and,  in  its  way,  a  complete  little  book  of  fifty 
pages,  illustrated  and  prettily  bound  in  cloth.  It  is 
sent  free  to  any  address  in  the  world  on  application. 
The  hotel  accommodates  about  one  hundred  guests. 
Address  the  Albemarle,  Albemarle  street,  Piccadilly, 
London. 


THE  SAVOY. 


A  London  hotel  that  has,  so  to  speak,  jumped  into 
popularity  is  the  Savoy  Hotel.  It  is  a  new  house,  on 
the  Victoria  embankment,  with  the  Strand  at  its  back, 
the  public  gardens  in  front  and  the  Thames  at  its  feet. 
It  lies  between  Charing  Cross  and  Waterloo  Bridge,  and 
for  a  ' '  finger  post  "  it  has  Cleopatra's  needle.  There  is 
an  entrance  for  foot  passengers  from  the  Strand  and  a 
carriage  drive  from  the  embankment  directly  into  the 
courtyard,  like  that  of  the  Palace  Hotel  in  San  Francisco, 
the  Grand  Hotel  in  Paris,  and  the  Grand  in  Brussels. 
In  fact,  the  Savoy  is  more  like  a  continental  than  an 
English  house,  and  the  owners  call  it  "the  Hotel  de 
Luxe  of  the  world."  Luxurious  in  size  and  appoint- 
ments, the  Savoy  certainly  is.  It  is  not  continental, 
however,  in  its  system  of  charges.  Nor  for  that  matter 
is  it  like  any  other  London  hotel,  its  system  being 
American.  In  all  Parisian  hotels  candles  are  a  separate 
charge  :  in  nearly  all  European  hotels  attendance  is  a 
separate  item,  and  in  most  hotels  in  the  civilized  world 
you  must  pay  extra  for  baths.  Not  so  at  the  Savoy. 
When  you  are  told  the  rate  for  an  apartment  every- 
thing is  included — everything  of  course  but  meals — 
bedroom,  lights,  attendance  and  baths.    There  are  sixty- 


88  LONDON  HOTELS. 

seven  bath  rooms  in  the  house,  and  beneath  it  there  is 
an  artesian  well  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet  deep. 
The  boiling  water,  as  well  as  the  cold,  like  Jacobs's  bottle, 
is  inexhaustible,  and  you  can  bathe  to  your  heart's  con- 
tent. You  can  hire  a  room  for  two  persons  for  two 
dollars  a  day,  or  you  may  engage  a  suite  at  twenty 
dollars  a  day. 

As  to  table,  you  may  live  economically  at  the  Savoy, 
or  you  may  live  like  a  prince;— a  rich  prince.  Here  are 
the  definite  and  fixed  rates  at  the  Savoy  : — bedrooms 
for  one  person,  from  seven  and  sixpence  (nearly  two 
dollars)  per  day  ;  for  two  persons,  ten-and-six  ;  suites 
of  apartments  containing  sitting-room,  bed-room,  dress- 
ing-room and  private  bath-room,  from  thirty  shillings 
per  day.  Breakfast  from  two  shillings  to  three-and-six  ; 
luncheon,  four  shillings  ;  dinner,  seven-and-six ;  dinner 
served  in  private  rooms  ten-and-six.  Guests'  servants 
are  boarded  at  six  shillings  per  day  ;  price  of  room 
according  to  location.  If  you  want  to  live  in  style  and 
enjoy,  at  its  best,  life  in  London,  engage  a  suite  at  the 
Savoy,  including  parlor  and  bath-room,  with  private 
lobby  and  private  balcony  overlooking  the  Thames.  It 
makes  no  difference  what  floor  you  select :  there  are 
"lifts"  in  the  house,  so  large  and  luxurious  as  to  be 
justly  called  "ascending  rooms:"  they  run  day  and 
night.  The  rooms  on  the  top  floor  are  equal  in  height 
of  ceiling  to  those  on  the  lower  floors,  and  the  furniture 
is  of  the  same  quality  throughout  the  house.  General 
manager,  C.  Ritz  ;  acting  manager,  L.  Echenard. 


HOTEL  WINDSOR. 


The  Hotel  Windsor  is  in  Victoria  street,  only  five 
minutes'  walk  from  Victoria  Station,  two  minutes'  walk 
from  the  American  Legation,  a  few  steps  from  West- 


LONDON  HOTELS.  89 

minster  Abbey,  Westminster  Bridge,  the  Houses  of 
Parliament,  St.  James's  Park  and  the  Home  Office.  The 
dining-room  of  the  Windsor  is  an  especially  cheerful 
apartment  and  it  overlooks  the  pretty  garden  of  a 
church.  The  great  plate  glass  windows  in  this  dining- 
room  are  larger  than  the  windows  in  any  other  hotel, 
so  large  that  they  are  only  moved  up  or  down  by  ropes 
to  which  handles  are  attached.  They  let  in  plenty  of 
daylight,  almost  as  much  as  streams  freely  into  the 
dining-room  of  the  Hotel  Pasaje,  Havana,  which  opens 
on  the  street,  and  which  is  not  encumbered  with  win- 
dows at  all. 

The  Hotel  Windsor  is  not  only  kept  by  a  "proprietor  " 
in  the  accepted  American  use  of  that  term,  but  the 
furniture,  the  building  and  the  ground  on  which  it 
stands  are  owned  in  fee  ("freehold,"  as  English  people 
call  it),  by  two  men,  J.  R.  Cleave  and  V.  D.  B.  Cooper, 
the  first  named  being  the  actual  and  active  manager  of 
the  house,  who  makes  it  his  home,  the  title  of  the  firm 
being  J.  R.  Cleave  &  Co.  The  premises  include  fifteen 
thousand  square  feet  of  ground,  which,  without  the  im- 
posing ten-story  stone  structure  upon  it,  is  valued  at 
forty-five  thousand  pounds  sterling— not  far  short  of  a 
quarter  milHon  dollars. 

The  Windsor  is  fortunate  in  its  location.  A  shilling 
cab  takes  you  to  any  theatre  or  to  the  shopping  centre, 
and  'buses  pass  the  door  every  minute  for  Charing 
Cross,  Trafalgar  square  and  the  Strand.  Time,  ten 
minutes  ;  fare,  two  cents,  inside  or  out. 

There  is  a  lift  at  the  Windsor  of  modem  style ;  the 
house  is  lighted  by  electricity ;  there  are  Turkish  and 
swimming  baths  on  the  lower  floor  ;  to  avoid  disagree- 
able odors  the  kitchen  is  at  the  top  of  the  house  ;  the 
bedrooms  are  scrupulously  clean,  the  cuisine  and  wines 
are  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  charges  moderate.  You 
can  live  at  the  Windsor,  if  you  prefer  it,  on  the  Ameri- 
can plan — rate,  about  four  dollars  a  day.     The  European 


40  LONDON  HOTELS. 

plan  is  also  moderate  in  price  for  rooms  and  meals — a 
delicious  lunch  for  sixty  cents :  choice  service. 

If  this  is  the  description  of  a  model  hotel,  worthy  in 
every  respect  of  the  best  patronage,  "that,"  as  humorist 
Gilbert  says,  "  is  the  idea  I  intended  to  convey."  The 
Windsor  was  built  about  thirteen  years  ago.  Address,  J. 
R.  Cleave,  manager,  Victoria  street,  Westminster,  S.  W. 


BAILEY'S  HOTEL. 


Americans  going  to  London  for  business,  intent  upon 
shopping,  theatre-going  and  a  round  of  sight-seeing, 
find  hotels  in  the  Strand,  or  hotels  near  Trafalgar  square, 
very  convenient.  Reference  is  made  to  the  Grand,  the 
Metropole,  the  Savoy,  and  the  Victoria,  in  their  alpha- 
betical order.  The  Langham,  in  Portland  place,  and 
those  select  houses  near  Burlington  Gardens  and  Picca- 
dilly— Long's,  the  Bristol,  the  Burlington  and  the  Albe- 
marle, are  also  central,  convenient,  and  in  a  fashionable 
district. 

If,  however,  a  family  is  going  to  London  for  a  pro- 
tracted stay  and  the  desire  of  their  hearts  is  to  be  in  an 
ultra-fashionable  locality,  where  the  aristocracy  reside, 
and  where  quiet  and  selectness  reign  and  salubrity  is 
assured,  then  Bailey's  Hotel,  on  the  corner  of  Glouces- 
ter and  Cromwell  roads,  is  recommended  and  recom- 
mends itself.  If  you  are  in  haste  and  do  not  care  for  a 
cab,  the  "  underg^round  "  will  take  you  from  "  the  city  " 
or  from  Charing  Cross  to  Bailey's  Hotel  in  fifteen  min- 
utes, fare  five  cents,  third  class  ;  fifteen  cents  in  a  first- 
class  carriage. 

When  you  reach  Gloucester  Road  Station  you  are  at 
Bailey's  Hotel,  and  within  a  few  minutes  walk  of  Hyde 
Park,  Kensington  Gardens,  Cromwell  Gardens,  Stan- 
hope Gardens,  Queen's  Gate  Gardens,  etc.,  etc.     Near  at 


LONDON  HOTELS.  41 

hand  are  the  Albert  Memorial,  Albert  Hall,  and  South 
Kensington  Museum. 

There  is  no  attempt  to  lead  people  to  believe  that  very 
low  prices  prevail  or  that  Bailey's  is  a  "cheap  house" 
in  any  sense  of  the  term.  On  the  contrary,  you  pay  for 
the  best,  and  you  get  it.  You  can  live  at  Bailey's  Hotel 
on  the  European  plan  at  about  the  same  rate  as  at  an 
American  hotel  of  the  first-class.  Single  rooms  rent  at 
about  one  dollar  per  day  ;  double  rooms  from  a  dollar 
and  a  half  ;  suites  from  four  dollars  and  a  half  upward. 
These  are  the  winter  rates.  They  are  a  trifle  higher 
during  "  the  season." 

As  at  all  English  hotels,  breakfast  varies  in  price  from 
fifty  cents  to  seventy-five  cents  ;  luncheon  from  sixty 
cents ;  table  d'hote  dinner,  one  dollar  and  twenty-five 
cents.  Of  course  it  is  English,  and  there  are  some  ex- 
tras. It  is  a  rule  at  every  English  hotel,  except  the 
Savoy  in  London,  to  make  a  separate  charge  for  ' '  at- 
tendance," about  thirty-five  cents  per  day  for  each  per- 
son, and  Bailey's  conforms  to  the  rule.  No  American 
likes  it  and  it  seems  odd,  but  it  is  the  custom  in  England, 

and  when  in  Rome .     Four  dollars  per  week  is  the 

charge  for  each  member  of  the  canine  race. 


BERNERS  HOTEL,  OXFORD  STREET. 


London  is  a  pretty  large  town,  and  those  hotels  whose 
names  are  so  much  in  men's  mouths,  such  as  the  Grand, 
the  Victoria,  the  Savoy,  the  Langham,  the  Metropole, 
do  not  include  the  entire  list  of  excellent  houses.  The 
Berners  Hotel  is  not  so  grand  as  these  nor  near  so  large  ; 
but  for  that  reason,  and  because  its  prices  are  moderate, 
it  commends  itself  to  many.  Berners  Hotel  is  intended 
for  and  is  largely  patronized  by  families.  Berners  street  is 
a  quiet,  narrow  street  running  off  from  Oxford  street  and 
is  but  a  few  steps  west  from  fashionable  Regent  street. 


42  LONDON  HOTELS. 

The  location  is  not  without  historical  interest.  In 
Berners  street  Theodore  Hook  played  the  most  famous 
of  his  many  practical  jokes.  In  l»he  early  days  of  the 
century  practical  jokes  were  more  in  favor  than  they 
are  now.  "A  practical  joke  is  a  peasant's  joke,"  says 
the  Italian  proverb — "  Gioco  di  mano  gioco  villano"  But 
allowance  must  be  made  for  the  animal  spirits  which 
prevailed  "in  the  hot  days  when  George  the  Fourth  was 
king,"  and  the  "  Berners  Street  Hoax  "  was  planned  and 
carried  out  by  Theodore  Hook  on  such  a  large  scale  that 
its  very  completeness  removed  it  from  the  category  of 
ordinary  hoaxes. 

The  "  Berners  Street  Hoax  "  was  simple  enough  in  its 
conception.  It  consisted  in  ordering  two  hundred  trades- 
men to  send  at  the  same  time  goods  of  the  most  varied 
kinds  to  a  particiilar  hoiise  in  Berners  street  (No.  54)  ; 
the  originator  of  the  little  comedy  having  meanwhile 
secured  for  himself  a  post  of  observation  in  a  house  im- 
mediately opposite  the  scene  of  action. 

The  house,  No.  6,  where  the  Berners  Hotel  has  been 
established  for  the  last  half  century,  is  associated  less 
with  comic  than  with  dramatic  incidents.  Here,  in  this 
very  house,  lived  Fauntleroy,  the  banker  ;  and  here, 
according  to  a  legend  which  may  well  be  founded  on 
fact,  he  concealed,  after  committing  his  great  forgery, 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  proceeds  ;  lodging  solid 
bullion  behind  wainscoting,  up  chimneys,  and  in  odd 
corners  of  secret  cupboards.  The  ancient  house,  with 
its  abundant  woodwork,  its  carved  cornices,  and  its 
painted  ceiling,  transports  one  to  the  past ;  though  the 
modern  furniture  and  the  newljMnvented  appliances  of 
all  kinds  soon  recall  the  dreamer  to  the  time  in  which 
we  live. 

The  building  also  has  a  history,  and  is  old,  but  the 
apartments  and  the  appointments  are  up  to  date.  The 
house  was  recently  "done  over"  (London  lingo)  by 
By  water  &  Co. ,  a  celebrated  English  firm  of  decorators. 


LONDON  HOTELS  43 

It  is  within  walking  distance  of  many  places  of  amuse- 
ment and  within  a  shilling  cab  fare  of  the  principal  rail- 
way stations. 

The  charges  at  Bemers  Hotel  are  moderate  ;  single 
bedroom  from  two  and  six  (sixty-two  cents)  per  day  ; 
breakfast  from  one  and  six  ;  luncheon  from  one  shilling  ; 
table  d'hote  dinner,  three  and  six — less  than  one  dollar. 
Visitors  are  also  received  on  boarding  terms  at  a  special 
rate,  from  nine  shillings  per  day,  including  room,  attend- 
ance, breakfast,  luncheon  and  dinner  (six  courses)  at 
table  d'hote.  Children  under  ten  years  -at  half  price. 
Board  and  lodging  for  visitors*  servants,  six  shillings 
per  day.  George  Augustus  Sala,  himself  a  famous  bon 
vivant,  is  chairman  of  the  company  ;  Thomas  Ward,  a 
man  of  wide  experience  in  hotel  management,  is  the 
resident  director,  and  he  is  well  supported  by  a  most 
capable  manager.  Mail  address,  6  and  7  Bemers  street, 
Oxford  street,  W. ;  cable  address,  Bemers  Hotel,  London. 


IN  JERMYN  STREET. 


A  couple  of  small,  quiet  hotels  in  Jermyn  street — a 
street  which  runs  parallel  with  Piccadilly — may  be  found 
pleasant  by  families  or  by  ladies  without  escort.  They 
lack  that  bustle  and  noise  to  which  some  people  object, 
and  they  are  not  "  company  hotels, "  that  is  to  say  the 
head  and  front  of  each  is  always  visible  and  approach- 
able. Mr.  Rawlings  is  proprietor  of  the  Rawlings  Hotel, 
and  Mr.  Morle  with  his  family  keeps  and  manages  the 
house  which  bears  his  name. 

While  Jermyn  street  is  narrow  and  its  two  hotels  are 
quiet,  plenty  of  life  and  gayety  are  to  be  had  near  at 
hand.  Bond  street  and  Regent  street,  two  of  the  most 
fashionable  shopping  streets  of  London,  are  hard  by, 
and  the  parks  and  palaces  are  within  walking  distance. 


44  LONDON  HOTELS. 

Rawlings'  Hotel  is  famous  for  its  cuisine,  and  a  feature 
at  Morle's  is  that  you  can  arrange  to  live  on  the  Ameri- 
can plan  if  you  prefer,  the  charges  being  "inclusive," 
as  they  call  this  plan  there,  and  very  moderate  withal. 
Both  these  houses  are  homelike  and  comfortable,  but 
they  are  not  strictly  fashionable. 

Do  not  confuse  Morle's  in  Jermyn  street  with  Morley's 
in  Trafalgar  square.  Morley's  has  a  magnificent  out- 
look, with  the  noble  Nelson  Metnument,  Landseer's  lions 
and  the  playing  fountains  in  front,  and  the  dinner  served 
at  Morley's  is  of  the  best  quality,  but  the  house  is  very 
old  and  rather  worn,  notwithstanding  its  white  and 
attractive  exterior. 


THE  FIRST  AVENUE. 


Don't  be  prejudiced  at  the  sound  of  "First  Avenue 
Hotel."  It  is  in  Holborn,  a  bustling,  busy  thorough- 
fare, but  which  has  nothing  in  common  with  our  First 
avenue  in  New  York.  The  Gordon's  Hotel  Company 
erred  in  naming  the  house  ;  they  possibly  meant  to 
say  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  for  the  First  Avenue  Hotel 
ranks  probably  with  our  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  in  New 
York,  only  the  First  Avenue  is  not  an  old  house.  Hol- 
born is  one  of  London's  main  arteries,  a  continuation, 
east,  of  Oxford  street.  The  First  Avenue  is  not  very 
far  from  St.  Paul's  and  Newgate.  The  former  being  a 
noble  cathedral,  you  will  wish  to  get  into  ;  the  latter 
being  a  prison,  you  will  wish  to  keep  out  of,  unless  for 
a  temporary  visit. 

OTHER  HOTELS. 


Another  hotel  in  Holborn  which  may  be  commended 
is  the  Holborn  Viaduct  Hotel,  near  the  city  station  of 
the  London,  Chatham  and  Dover  Railwav. 


LONDON  HOTELS.  45 

A  pleasant  house  in  High  Holborn  is  the  Inns  of 
Court ;  neither  fashionable  nor  grand,  but  select  and 
comfortable ;  largely  patronized  by  English  people. 
Terms  moderate.  The  main  entrance  is  in  Lincoln's 
Inn  Fields. 

There  are  some  famous  old  houses  farther  east,  in  the 
city,  in  such  a  bustling,  busy  quarter  as  St.  Martin's  le 
Grand,  near  the  General  Post  Office.  The  Queen's 
Hotel  in  this  neighborhood  is  best  known. 

Not  far  from  this  locality  is  the  Manchester  Hotel,  in 
Aldersgate  street.  The  proprietor  of  the  Manchester 
Hotel  especially  solicits  American  patronage. 

Those  who  desire  to  make  frequent  visits  to  the  Houses 
of  Parliament  and  that  grand  old  pile,  Westminster 
Abbey,  will  find  the  Westminster  Palace  Hotel  conven- 
ient. It  has  an  imposing  front,  in  Victoria  street,  West- 
minster, almost  opposite  to  the  Abbey.  Within  five 
minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel  are  the  Home  Office,  St. 
James's  Park,  the  Horse  Guards,  Westminster  Bridge, 
leading  to  the  Surrey  side  of  London,  the  United  States 
Legation,  and  the  Victoria  Station  of  the  London.  Chat- 
ham and  Dover  Railway.  The  favorite  and  well  kept 
Hotel  Windsor,  referred  to  elsewhere,  is  also  in  Victoria 
street,  and  still  nearer  to  the  Station  and  the  Legation 
before  mentioned. 

Convenient  to  Hyde  Park  are  the  Alexandra  Hotel, 
i6  to  21  St.  George's  Place,  Hyde  Park  Comer,  and  the 
Hyde  Park  Hotel.  The  latter  is  at  the  west  end  of  Ox- 
ford street,  in  Hyde  Park  Place,  near  the  Marble  Arch. 

Claridge's  Hotel  used  to  be  considered  "the  crack" 
house  of  London,  and  it  is  still  patronized  by  the  nobility, 
members  of  the  diplomatic  corps  and  by  royalty.  Nos. 
49  to  55  Brook  street,  Grosvenor  Square. 

The  Hotels  connected  with  the  railway  stations  are 
large  structures,  solidly  built,  fire-proof,  as  a  general 
rule,  and  fitted  up  with  every  modem  contrivance.  They 
are  desirable  stopping  places  if  you  arrive  late  at  night 


4»  LONDON  HOTELS. 

or  if  you  intend  to  make  an  early  start  by  rail,  from  the 
station,  in  the  morning.  They  were  erected  for  that 
purpose,  and  they  serve  it  admirably. 

There  are  very  many  reputable  hotels  in  London 
which  are  worthy  of  the  best  patronage,  detailed  refer- 
ence to  which,  in  this  limited  space,  it  would  not  be  pos- 
sible to  make. 

If  none  of  the  hotels  described  or  alluded  to  in  the  fore- 
going list  suits  your  plans  and  purposes,  consult  friends 
who  have  had  experience  in  such  matters.  But  don't 
go,  hap-hazard,  into  the  smallest  and  oldest  London 
hotels  of  whose  very  existence  you  never  heard.  Some 
of  them  are  unpleasant,  as  residences ;  others  are  un- 
healthy. If  your  stay  in  London  is  short  there  is  every 
reason  why  you  should  put  up  at  the  best  houses.  If 
you  make  a  protracted  visit  and  desire  to  economize,  go 
to  a  boarding  house  or  take  lodgings.  You  will  see  signs 
in  windows  all  over  London  :  hire  rooms  and  eat  where 
your  fancy  or  purse  directs.  London  housekeepers  are 
glad  to  "  eke  out  "  by  letting  rooms  in  the  summer,  and 
with  a  small  tip  now  and  then  to  the  maid,  life  can  be 
made  very  comfortable  in  London  lodgings. 


A  FEW  BOARDING  HOUSES. 


There  are  plenty  of  first-class  boarding  houses  where 
Americans  are  welcome.  Five  or  six  come  to  mind — 
Mrs.  Pool's,  No.  20  Bedford  place  ;  Mrs.  Goodman's,  No. 
13  Montague  place  ;  Mrs.  Philp's,  No.  6  Montague  place  ; 
Mrs.  "Wright's,  No.  15  Upper  Woburn  place,  and  Mr. 
Cooper's,  No.  i  Bedford  place,  Russell  square.  Mrs. 
Philp  is  an  American  whose  husband  keeps  the  Cock- 
burn  Hotel  in  Glasgow  ;  and  there  is  a  Philp's  Cockburn 
Hotel  in  Edinburgh.  Mrs.  Philp's  drawing-room  is 
beautiful,  the  dining-room  cheerful,  and  there  is  a  pretty 


LONDON  HOTELS.  47 

garden  which  is  backed  by  the  walls  of  the  British 
Museum,  so  Mrs.  Philp  is  easily  found. 

Those  who  want  to  live  economically  but  comfortably 
are  recommended  to  the  handsome  private  hotel  or 
pension  of  Mrs.  Marcus  Pool,  20  Bedford  place,  Russell 
square.  This  is  a  pleasant  and  convenient  quarter  of 
the  city — quite  handy  for  the  British  Museum,  not  far 
from  Charing  Cross,  and  a  shilling  cab  fare  to  railway 
stations  and  places  of  amusement.  The  house  is  fur- 
nished and  appointed  on  a  liberal  scale  ;  the  drawing- 
room  is  large  and  cheerful  ;  the  bedrooms  are  luxuri- 
ously fitted  up  in  the  best  taste,  and  they  have  a 
pleasant  outlook.  There  is  a  Broadwood  piano,  also  a 
new  billiard  room,  with  a  table  from  the  famous  firm  of 
Bennett.  The  house  has  a  refined,  home-like  air,  well 
representing  the  character  of  Mrs.  Pool  and  her  charm- 
ing daughter.  French  and  German  are  spoken.  The 
terms  at  the  Pool  pension  are  from  two  dollars  a  day, 
which  include  breakfast,  table  d'hote  dinner  and  attend- 
ance— "everything  inclusive."  Those  are  the  terms 
"in  the  season;"  the  winter  rates  are  lower.  The 
cuisine  is  of  the  substantial  English  quality,  but  not 
heavy.  At  Pool's  pension  you  are  sure  to  meet  culti- 
vated and  select  people.  Those  who  have  been  Mrs. 
Pool's  guests  appear  perfectly  satisfied  ;  for  they  return 
again  and  again.  Mr.  Cooper  keeps  a  good  house  and 
he  caters  to  people  accustomed  to  pleasant  surroundings. 
He  is  a  typical  Londoner  of  the  middle  class — honest, 
blunt  and  out-spoken.  Mrs.  Lucy  H.  Hooper,  wife  of 
the  American  Vice-Consul  in  Paris,  recommends  No.  i 
Bedford  place.  Mrs.  Hooper  makes  it  her  stopping  place 
when  she  is  in  London. 

"American  Family  Home." — This  is  the  title  of  a 
London  establishment  which  meets  with  especial  favor 
among  fastidious  tourists.  It  is  known  as  the  Demeter 
House,  and  is  at  No.  1 3  Montague  place,  Russell  Square, 
W.  C,  a  boarding-house  district,  but  quiet,  select  and 


48  LONDON  HO  TELS. 

healthful.  Montague  Place  is  not  far  from  Oxford 
street ;  in  two  minutes  you  get  a  penny  'bus  which  goes 
to  Charing  Cross.  Montague  place  is  backed  by  the 
British  Museuni,  between  which  and  the  Demeter  House 
are  airy  and  attractive  gardens.  The  house  is  large  and 
the  rooms  spacious  and  beautifully  fitted  up  ;  the  hand- 
some drawing-room  measures  thirty  feet  square.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  A.  Goodman  have  kept  the  Demeter  House 
for  about  six  years.  They  aim  to  combine  the  comforts 
and  freedom  of  a  refined  home  and  the  advantages  of  a 
hotel,  but  with  less  expense.  There  is  accommodation 
in  the  Demeter  Hoiase  for  twenty-two  gfuests.  Many 
leading  American  families  make  this  their  home  during 
their  annual  visits  to  London.  It  can  be  recommended 
to  people  of  refined  tastes  accustomed  to  neat,  clean 
and  well-appointed  houses.  The  rates  are  from  six  to 
eight  shillings  per  day  for  breakfast  (meat  breakfast) 
and  dinner  ;  no  charge  for  attendance.  In  mid-day  you 
are  occupied  in  London  in  sight-seeing,  so  luncheon  is 
not  included  in  the  figures  quoted. 

Put  down  ' '  No.  1 5  Upper  Woburn  place,  Tavistock 
square,"  and  note  that  it  is  not  far  from  Euston  station. 
It  is  a  quiet  street.  The  house  is  kept  by  an  English 
woman  of  refinement,  Miss  Mary  Wright  and  her  sister, 
and  it  may  be  commended  as  a  pleasant  Christian 
home,  where  grace  is  said  before  meals. 

Of  these  boarding  houses,  like  all  the  hotels  mentioned 
in  this  article,  the  writer  speaks  from  his  own  knowledge 
and  experience.  But  don't  count  on  getting  accommo- 
dation in  London  hotels  in  the  season,  without  making 
previous  arrangements  or  giving  notice  in  advance  of 
your  arrival,  or  you  may  be  disappointed. 


WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON. 

AND  WHERE  NOT  TO  LUNCH. 


It  may  be  set  down  at  the  outset  that  there  are 
no  restaurants  in  London  equal  to  Delmonico's  in  Fifth 
avenue,  or  the  Cafe  Savarin  in  the  Equitable  Building, 
New  York,  and  no  London  restaurant  serves  a  table 
d'hote  dinner  at  any  price  equal  in  quality  and  style  of 
service  to  that  furnished  at  the  select  and  elegant 
"  Cambridge,"  Fifth  avenue  and  33d  street,  New  York. 

Neither  is  there  a  restaurant  of  the  third  class  that  will 
compare  with  Mouquin's,  in  Ann  street,  where  everything 
is  cooked  to  a  turn,  and  where  even  a  fastidious  gour- 
met need  not  find  fault.  There  are  two  or  three  Italian 
places  in  Regent  street  where  they  ser\'e  a  "  Chateau- 
briand," enough  for  two  persons,  for  one  dollar,  but  no- 
where do  you  get  a  dish  of  macaroni  that  is  more  pala- 
table than  at  Mouquin's  and  neither  in  London  nor 
Paris  do  you  get  as  good  Burgundy  for  the  price  as 
Mouquin's  Beaujolais — half  bottle,  forty  cents. 

The  foreign  h^lls  are  more  richly  gilded,  and  the  fur- 
niture is  of  finer  texture,  but  if  you  are  looking  for  as 
good  food  and  as  well  served  at  that  at  Mouquin's,  at 
Mouquin's  prices,  you  will  look  in  vain. 

In  the  price  of  wines,  however,  no  first-class  hotel  or 
restaurant  anywhere  that  I  know  of  sells  wines  as  low 
as  the  manager  of  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey,  Cal. 
In  France,  on  the  Swiss  border,  I  found  vin  ordinaire 
almost  as  cheap  as  water,  in  the  small  inns.  The  Hotel 
del  Monte,  please  bear  in  mind,  is  a  superbly  appointed 
and  grand  establishment,  and   they  serve  you  a  half 


50  WHERE  TO  L  UNCH  IN  LONDON. 

bottle  of  good  California  Zinfandel  for  fifteen  cents. 
But  then  this  hotel  company  own  their  own  vineyards, 
and  make  no  profit  on  wine  served  at  table.  It  is  a  sort 
of  "  sample  "  or  advertisement  for  their  wines. 

"The  Aerated  Bread  Shops,"  which  are  as  "  thick  as 
flies  "  in  London,  are  probably  good  enough  places  to 
drop  into  if  you  are  in  a  great  hurry,  for  a  cup  of  coflfee 
or  cocoa  and  a  roll  or  piece  of  dry,  digestible  seed  cake. 
If  you  abhor  marble  tables,  if,  you  must  have  a  serviette 
and  you  would  avoid  a  crowd  and  mixed  company,  keep 
out  of  the  "aerated  bread  shops,"  and  by  the  same 
token  and  by  all  means  keep  out  of  the  Lockhart  lunch 
shops.  The  "aerated  bread  shops"  are  tolerable  ;  the 
others  are  not. 

Much  more  worthy  of  patronage  than  aerated  bread 
shops  or  Lockhart's  lunch  shops  is  the  confectionery  and 
cake  counter  of  William  Buszard,  197  and  199  Oxford 
street,  where  everything  is  clean  and  inviting.  A  sim- 
ilar place  of  the  first-class  is  that  in  "the  city,"  of 
Alfred  Purssell  &  Co.,  No.  80  Cornhill,  E.  C.  The  pro- 
prietor of  this  establishment  is  related  to  the  late  Wil- 
liam Purssell,  founder  of  the  famous  restaurant  in  Broad- 
way which  still  bears  his  name.  There  are  several  pleas- 
ant places  in  and  near  Piccadilly  where  you  may  obtain 
a  cup  of  tea  or  cocoa  and  a  dainty  sandwich,  just 
enough  to  "stay  the  appetite."  One  of  the  best  of 
these  is  Callard's,  146  New  Bond  street,  but  even  in 
this  neat  and  clean  little  shop  they  don't  know  what  a 
serviette  is. 

The  Tivoli  restaurant,  up  stairs,  connected  with  the 
Tivoli  Music  Hall,  is  in  the  Strand,  just  East  of  Charing 
Cross.  ' '  La  Haute  Cuisine  Franyaise, "  as  they  term  it,  is 
in  charge  of  a  famous  chef,  M.  Gerard.  A  Table  d'Hote 
Luncheon,  at  2s.  6d.,  from  12  to  3  ;  Parisian  dinner,  at 
5$.,  from  6  to  9,  served  in  the  Flemish  Room. 

Londoners  are  proud  of  their  Holborn  Restaurant,  218 
High  Holborn,  where  the  glass  and  the  brass  and  the 


WHERE  TO  L  UNCH  IN  LONDON.  61 

marole  columns  are  resplendent  and  imposing,  and 
where  you  are  regaled  with  vocal  music  (English  glees) 
during  the  dinner  hour,  but  the  meals  are  not  daintily 
served ;  the  butter  is  not  cold  and  the  plates  are  not 
warm,  and  unless  you  order  a  costly  meal  at  the  Hol- 
born  Restaurant,  the  waiter  may  wait  on  you  with  con- 
descension.    Dinner,  three-and-six. 

There  is  a  Washington  Restaurant  in  London,  203 
Oxford  street,  not  far  from  Oxford  Circus.  Its  title 
attracts  Americans,  although  the  proprietors  are  Italians, 
Costa  and  Magri.  Great  stress  is  laid  on  the  large  and 
choice  stock  of  wines  here,  and  the  cellars,  as  I  know 
from  examination,  contain  some  good  brands.  There 
is  not  much  style  at  "The  Washington,"  but  on  the 
other  hand  the  prices  (for  food)  do  not  reach  the  top 
notch. 

The  elegant  Hotel  Bristol,  17  Cork  street,  Burlington 
Gardens,  is  open  as  a  restaurant  in  the  middle  of  the 
day.  This  now  is  the  place  for  a  gourmet  or  an  epicure. 
The  dishes  are  served  in  perfect  style  and  the  wines  are 
the  choicest.  A  four-shilling  table  d'hote  luncheon  is 
served  daily  at  the  Bristol.  This  price,  of  course,  does 
not  include  even  a  "  small  bottle." 

If  you  are  in  "the  city,"  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Bank  (the  Bank  of  England)  and  you  have  a  desire  to 
see  how  and  where  some  of  the  bankers,  brokers  and 
merchants  limch,  step  into  the  "  Palmerston  Restau- 
rant, "  Palmerston  Buildings,  a  solid  looking  structure, 
at  34  Old  Broad  street.  I  don't  know  exactly,  but  I 
believe  it  is  kept  by  the  company  which  "runs"  the 
aristocratic  Hotel  Bristol  in  Burlington  Gardens.  No 
matter  who  keeps  it.  The  Palmerston  is  well  kept,  and 
it  is  called  "the  largest  one-floor  restaurant  in  the 
world."  Neither  do  I  know  what  is  meant  by  that  re- 
mark since  there  are  several  floors  besides  a  cold 
luncheon  counter,  dining  rooms  for  ladies,  grill  room, 
reading  room,  supplied  with  newspapers  from  all  parts 


52  WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON. 

of  the  world  (in  which,  of  course,  you  will  find  The  Home 
Journal),  smoking  and  billiard  rooms,  even  a  hair- 
dressing  saloon  and  bath  rooms.  The  Palmerston  is 
worthy  its  great  name.  It  is  in  the  city  proper  and 
well  worth  a  visit. 

Ladies  who  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  Westminster 
Abbey  or  who  have  business  at  the  American  Legation, 
are  recommended  to  the  Army  and  Navy  stores,  in 
Victoria  street,  opposite  the,  Windsor  Hotel,  where  a 
dainty  lunch  is  served  at  a  very  moderate  sum.  You  can 
do  your  shopping  in  the  same  large  establishment.  They 
sell  everything,  from  a  poached  Qgg  to  an  Axminster  car- 
pet or  a  wedding  outfit.  The  Army  and  Navy  stores  is  on 
the  cooperative  plan.  To  gain  entrance  you  must  either 
use  a  member's  ticket  number  or  use  good  judgment. 

Gatti  is  a  well-known  name  in  the  Strand,  where  the 
Gattis  have  two  large,  gaudily  furnished  restaurants, 
one  of  which  extends  to  King  William  street.  The 
Gattis  are  also  owners  of  the  Adelphi  Theatre,  where 
you  may  always  enjoy  a  drama — if  you  enjoy  melo- 
drama. The  Gattis  are  Swiss,  and  one  of  the  brothers 
is  a  legislator  in  one  of  the  Swiss  Cantons.  They  com- 
menced in  a  small  way,  in  the  east  end  of  London,  many 
years  ago  and  made  a  reputation  for  their  ices.  They 
long  since  moved  to  the  west  end,  where  they  increased 
their  business  and  they  now  conduct  a  thriving  trade. 
All  Gatti's  waiters  are  foreigners.  They  are  a  talkative 
set,  and  some  people  might  prefer  that  their  linen  be 
nearer  the  color  of  snow. 


IN  REGENT  STREET. 


If  you  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  Piccadilly  Circus, 
a  fair  place  to  get  luncheon  at  a  fair  price  is  "  the  Flor- 
ence "  in  Rupert  street.  Regent  street.     It  is  an  Italian 


WHERE  TO  L  UNCH  IN  LONDON.  53 

restaurant ;  the  lunch  is  served  table  d'hote  and  the 
price  is  one  shilling  and  sixpence.  But  there  is  no  profit 
to  the  restaurateur  in  the  mere  lunch  :  you  are  expected 
to  order  wine — indeed  that  is  the  expectation  in  all 
English  restaurants  and  hotels — all  hotels  that  are  not 
temperance  houses.  At  the  Florence  you  can  get  din- 
ner from  six  to  nine,  for  half-a-crown — sixty-two  cents — 
and  you  order  wine  of  course. 

If  you  are  fond  of  high  living,  and  you  don't  mind 
paying  for  it,  take  a  meal  in  the  middle  of  the  day  or  early 
in  the  evening  at  the  Hotel  Continental.  It  is  in  the 
lower  part  of  Regent  street,  on  the  corner  of  Waterloo 
place,  within  the  shadow  of  the  Duke  of  York  column. 
It  was  one  of  the  first  houses  in  London  to  adopt  the 
French  style  in  name — Hotel  Continental  in  lieu  of 
Continental  Hotel — and  it  was  one  of  the  first  to  serve  a 
first-class  dinner  in  the  French  style.  The  reputation 
for  its  cuisine  is  second  to  none,  and  the  hotel  prides 
itself  upon  the  accuracy  of  the  names  and  vintages  of 
the  wines  supplied.  It  has  the  monopoly  in  London  of 
that  famous  brand  of  champagne,  "  Medaille  (f  Or," 
which  received  the  grand  prize  in  the  French  Exhibition 
of  1878  over  sixty  other  competing  wines.  Cigarettes 
made  of  the  finest  tobacco  are  manufactured  expressh- 
for  the  hotel  in  Constantinople  and  Salonica. 

There  is  always  a  very  gay  scene  in  the  Hotel  Contin- 
ental supper  room  after  the  theatres  close  ;  it  might  be- 
come too  lively  in  the  early  hours  of  the  morning,  but 
the  police  regulations  oblige  such  places  as  the  Contin- 
ental to  close  their  doors  at  one  A.M.  Dinner  from 
seven-and-six  to  twelve-and-six,  without  wine,  of 
course  ;  for  although  you  are  in  the  Continental  you 
are  not  on  the  Continent.    A.  Y.  Wilson  is  the  manager. 

More  attention  is  given  to  "  the  inner  man  "  in  London 
than  in  any  other  place  I  wot  of.  They  seem  to  live  to 
eat  there,  not  eat  to  live,  and  yet  some  one  has  noted 
this  difference — you  eat  dinner  in  London,  while  in  Paris 


54  WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON. 

you  dine.  Mention  the  subject  of  restaurants  in  London 
and  the  majority  will  ask  you,  "Have  you  dined  at 
'Verrey's  in  Regent  street?"  Yes,  I've  been  to  Verrey's 
and  I  found  it  very  expensive,  and  very  gloomy,  not  to 
say  oppressive.  You  are  in  the  middle  of  the  house  and 
the  room  is  lighted  from  a  skylight.     It  is  not  cheerful. 

Near  Verrey's,  at  227  Regent  street,  is  Elphinstone's, 
an  attractive  "pastrycook  shop,"  where  cakes,  coffee, 
ices  or  a  sandwich  are  served  quickly  and  neatly. 

Blan chard's,  "The  Burlington,"  169  Regent  street,  is 
patronized  by  the  higher  classes.  Dinner  from  five 
shillings  to  twelve-and-six.  No  higher  priced  dinner  in 
London. 

For  a  healthful,  nicely-served  meal,  whether  it  consist 
of  a  mutton  chop  and  a  boiled  potato  or  a  dinner  of 
several  courses,  much  better  than  most  of  the  establish- 
ments in  Regent  street  is  the  Cafe  Royal,  at  No.  68 
Regent  street.  In  the  "  Grand  Cafe  Restaurant  Royal," 
where  dinner  is  served,  prices  rule  high.  For  luncheon 
go  into  the  "  Grill  Room  "  of  the  Cafe  Royal.  You  will 
find  the  rates  reasonable,  the  food  of  the  best,  the  ap- 
pointments on  a  grand  scale,  and  the  service  satisfac- 
tory. These  remarks  will  also  apply  to  "  The  Monico," 
at  Piccadilly  Circus  and  Shaftesbury  avenue. 

The  St.  James  Restaurant,  which  extends  from  Picca- 
dilly to  Regent  street,  with  entrances  on  both  streets,  is 
a  large,  showy  place,  with  plenty  of  glitter  about  it,  and 
wearing  the  big-sounding  title  of  St.  James  Hall.  The 
rates  are  not  low,  the  food  is  not  of  the  choicest  quality, 
the  service  is  not  of  the  best,  and  the  waiters  may  over- 
charge you  unless  you  watch  them  closely.  The  charge 
for  washing  your  hands  at  the  St.  James,  be  you  a  pa- 
tron or  not,  is  two-pence.  This  is  a  regular  charge 
made  by  the  proprietors,  but  if  you  don't  also  fee  the 
man  who  hands  you  a  towel  or  fills  your  basin,  you 
might  get  a  cold  reception  down-stairs  the  next  time  you 
call,  and  you  may  fill  your  own  basin. 


WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON.  55 

At  the  Criterion,  in  Piccadilly  Circus,  you  can  take 
your  choice  ;  go  up  stairs,  and  the  charges  are  higher  ; 
down  in  the  basement  the  same  dishes  are  served  at  a 
lower  price.  To  quote  their  bill,  "table  d'hote  three- 
and-six,  le  diner  Parisien,  five  shillings. " 

English  people  when  they  are  thirsty  drink  beer,  wine, 
or  something  stronger  ;  Americans  who  live  in  cities, 
American  women  at  least,  prefer  something  weaker, 
soda  water,  for  instance,  which,  charged  with  gas, 
looks  cool  and  inviting  as  it  comes  bubbling  from  a 
highly  polished,  silver-plated  fountain.  Not  until  re- 
cently could  American  taste  in  this  matter  be  gratified 
in  London.  Now  there  are  two  "  American  confection- 
eries *'  kept  by  Fuller,  one,  the  principal  establishment, 
at  206  Regent  street ;  the  other,  at  358  Strand,  both 
central  locations.  The  first  is  close  to  Oxford  Circus 
and  not  far  from  the  Langham  Hotel.  At  Fuller's  you 
can  get  ice-cream  soda  and  ' '  caramels  fresh  every  hour. " 
In  fact,  on  a  pleasant  summer  day  Fuller's,  in  Regent 
street,  will  remind  you  of  Huyler's  on  Broadv/ay,  and 
if  you  are  a  New  Yorker,  you  will  meet  many  familiar 
faces  there.  If  you  retain  a  juvenile  pencfiant  for  pea- 
nuts, that  taste  can  also  be  gratified  at  Fuller's. 


THE  GRILL  ROOM  OF  THE  GRAND. 


So  many  of  the  transient  guests  at  hotels  in  London  ar^ 
out  shopping  and  sight-seeing,  that  they  generally  take 
only  breakfast,  or,  at  most,  breakfast  and  dinner,  at  their 
hotels,  always  lunching  wherever  convenience  may 
permit.  The  meals  at  European  hotels  being  usually  a 
separate  charge,  the  hotel  is  a  sufferer  by  this  custom, 
so  that  at  some,  if  not  most  houses,  it  is  understood 
that,  if  you  take  your  meals  out.  a  higher  charge  will  be 
made  for  your  apartment.     The  directors  of  the  Gordon 


66  WHERE  TO  L  UNCH  IN  LONDON. 

Hotels,  however,  have  a  restaurant  of  their  own  in  the 
Grand  Hotel,  which  is  so  attractive  that  it  not  only  keeps 
together  the  .regular  guests,  but  allures  ' '  the  oiitside 
world,"  and  thus  the  "Grill  Room"  of  the  Grand  has 
become  famous  in  London. 

While  within  and  a  part  of  the  Grand  Hotel,  it  is  not 
reached  by  the  main  entrance  in  Northumberland  ave- 
nue. It  is  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  building,  around 
the  corner,  in  the  Strand,  and  is  in  what  we  would  call 
in  New  York  a  basement,  but  no  ordinary  "  basement " 
is  this,  and  the  staircase  leading  to  it  is  anything  but 
ordinary.  The  Grill  Room  of  the  Grand  is  a  well- 
lighted,  cheerful  apartment,  richly  carpeted  and  finely 
furnished.  The  chairs  are  comfortably  upholstered,  the 
walls  are  gorgeous  with  polished  tiles,  the  table  furni- 
ture is  dainty,  the  food  is  of  prime  quality,  and  the 
tariff  of  charges  moderate. 

Don't  be  surprised  at  the  charge,  two-pence,  for  wash- 
ing your  hands  in  the  Grill  Room  lavatory,  and  unless 
you  occupy  a  room,  the  charge  for  use  of  lavatory  in 
the  hotel  proper  is  three-pence  ;  but  it  is  worth  half  a 
crown  merely  to  see  the  lavatory,  or  rather  the  staircase 
and  landing  leading  to  it,  so  beautiful  are  the  colored 
marble  fountain,  the  eastern  rugs,  the  fernery  and  the 
Oriental  lamps,  with  which  this  lower  part  of  the  house 
is  decorated.  The  view  of  this  lower  part  from  the 
marble  staircase  on  the  main  floor  has  been  called  fairy- 
like ;  it  is  certainly  very  pleasing. 

Strangers  are  not  allowed  the  run  and  freedom  of  the 
hotels  in  Europe  as  they  are  in  "the  States."  They 
can't  use  the  smoking-room,  read  the  newspapers,  loiter 
about  the  halls,  make  a  general  rendezvous  of  the  house 
and  help  themselves  to  stationery  in  European  hotels  as 
they  do  on  this  side.  Their  hotels  lack  some  of  our 
popular  features  and  the  excellent  service  and  discipline 
of  the  American  hotels,  but,  on  the  other  hand,  they 
are  not  so  noisy,  and  are  more  private  and  home-like. 


WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON.  57 


SIMPSONS  DIVAN. 


A  Characteristic  English  Restaurant. — A  good,  plain, 
thoroughly  wholesome  English  dinner  is  served  in  an 
appetizing  way  by  English  waiters  at  Simpson's,  No. 
103  Strand,  next  door  to  Terry's  Theatre,  opposite 
Exeter  Hall.  You  get  a  bowl  of  good  soup,  a  course  of 
fish,  a  cut  from  the  joint,  a  salad,  two  kinds  of  vege- 
tables, with  bread  and  butter,  a  biscuit  and  a  bit  of  rich 
Gorgonzola  or  dry  Wiltshire  cheese  to  wind  up  with,  and 
your  whole  bill  will  be  four  shillings,  to  which  add  three- 
pence for  "attendance,"  which  is  charged  in  the  bill, 
and  about  threepence  more  which  you  will  hand  to  the 
waiter.  A  feature  of  the  place  is  that  the  hot  joint,  over 
a  chafing  dish  and  on  a  small  table,  is  wheeled  round 
to  you,  and  it  is  there  cut  before  your  eyes  and  trans- 
ferred to  your  plate.  You  can  get  a  lower-priced  dinner 
in  London,  and  higher-priced  dinners  where  you  please, 
but  none  of  a  better  quality  and  none  that  is  more  satis- 
factory unless  you  demand  fancy  fol  de  rols,  indigestible 
entrees  and  French  dishes  made  of  little  or  nothing. 
.  Simpson's  is  justly  celebrated  for  its  ' '  fish  "  dinners. 
Both  these  and  the  meal  above  described  are  served  in 
the  middle  of  the  day  and  in  the  evening  also.  On  Sun- 
day the  evening  dinner  only  is  served  ;  the  place  is  closed 
on  that  day  until  6  P.  M. 

Simpson's  enjoys  the  patronage  of  Henry  Irving  and 
of  other  people  famous  in  the  theatrical  world,  just  as  it 
did  in  the  last  century.  Henry  Ir\'ing's  Lyceum  Thea- 
tre, by  the  way,  is  in  the  Strand,  near  Simpson's,  but  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  street.  Not  very  long  ago  I 
saw  D'Oyly  Carte  enjoying  his  dinner  at  Simpson's. 
This  is  a  special  compliment  to  the  place,  because  that 
magnificent  hotel,  tlie  Savoy,  in  which  this  theatrical 
manager  is  interested,  is  just  around  the  corner  from 
Simpson's,  on  the  Thames  Embankment.     During  the 


58  WHERE  TO  LUNCH  IN  LONDON. 

siitniner  of  '91  I  met  at  Simpson's  another  theatrical 
manager,  our  own  Augustin  Daly,  with  his  wife.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Daly  occasionally  left  the  Hotel  Metropole, 
where  they  had  apartments,  to  partake  of  one  of  Simp- 
son's substantial,  well-cooked  and  appetizing  meals. 
There's  no  Simpson  now,  the  founder  died  long  ago, 
but  '*  Simpson's  "  is  there  yet,  as  it  was  a  hundred  years 
ago,  although  it  is  now  a  limited  company.  Howard 
Paul  eulogizes  this  place,  and  Stephen  Fiske  recom- 
mends it.  Besides  being  a  brilliant  writer  on  dramatic 
matters,  Mr.  Fiske  has  made  a  study  of  the  gastronomic 
art,  and  he  lived  in  London  continuously  during  nine 
years.  The  reading  public  put  faith  in  Stephen  Fiske's 
dramatic  criticism  ;  his  intimates  also  trust  to  his  good 
taste  and  judgment  in  ordering  a  dinner. 

It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  changes  in  the  employees 
at  this  establishment  are  seldom  made.  Some  of  the  wait- 
ers have  stood  at  the  tables  for  nearly  two  decades,  and 
the  head  waiter  has  been  there  (probably  not  always  as 
head  waiter)  for  more  than  thirty  years.  The  name  of  this 
head  waiter  is  Charles  Flowerdew,  so  he  informed  me, 
and  I  can  impart  this  piece  of  information — that  this  same 
Flowerdew  is  a  character  worth  studying.  There  is 
nothing  of  the  "  Yellowplush  "  type  about  him,  but  he 
is  such  a  character,  courteous  and  civil  (yes,  seemingly 
servile  to  an  American's  eye),  such  as  Dickens  delighted 
to  draw. 

Mr.  Flowerdew  knows  all  the  old  customers  at  Simp- 
son's, and,  what  is  of  more  consequence  to  a  hungry  man, 
he  knows  all  the  choice  cuts.  He  will  suggest  the  best 
dishes,  the  rare  bits,  and  he  will  serve  you  from  the 
joint  ad  libitum,  as  he  proudly  remarks.  When  next 
you  go  to  London,  go  to  Simpson's,  103  Strand.  You 
will  be  sure  to  meet  a  few  London  notabilities,  you  will 
be  sure  of  a  good  dinner,  and  last,  but. by  no  means 
least,  you  will  see  the  polite  and  dignified  Mr.  Charles 
Flowerdew.     Managing  director,  E.  W.  Cathie. 


RAILWAY  TRAVELLING  IN  ENGLAND. 


While  our  facilities  in  railway  travelling  have  wonder- 
fully improved  in  the  past  ten  years,  it  must  not  be 
supposed  that  in  conservative  England  they  have  stood 
still  entirely.  But  the  improvements  in  carriage  accom- 
modation there  have  been  so  steady  and  gradual  that 
passengers  hardly  recognize  how  much  more  they  get 
for  their  money  now  than  they  did  a  generation  back. 
For  instance,  the  old  first-class  carriage  of  forty  years 
ago  was  fifteen  feet  long,  six  and  a  half  feet  broad,  and 
less  than  five  feet  high,  and  this  was  constructed  to  seat 
eighteen  passengers  :  in  other  words,  each  person  had 
about  twenty-six  cubic  feet  of  space.  In  the  carriages 
built  to-day  to  accommodate  ten  first-class  passengers, 
each  one  has  ninety  cubic  feet. 

Nor  because  we  in  America  have  such  luxurious  Pull- 
man and  Wagner  cars  must  it  be  imagined  that  the 
English  railway  carriages  have  not  comforts  and  luxuries 
of  their  own.  Some  carriages,  for  example,  have  com- 
partments which  are  built  to  seat  only  two  or  three  per- 
sons, thus  securing  complete  privacy  to  a  party  of  that 
number. 

I  have  never  occupied  a  more  comfortable  railway  com- 
partment than  in  going,  as  I  did,  last  September,  from 
Edinburgh  to  London  over  the  lines  of  the  Caledonian 
and  London  and  North  Western  railways,  on  the  world- 
famous  train  called  the  "Flying  Scotchman" — and  a 
flyer  it  is.  The  distance  is  four  hundred  miles,  and  it  is 
run  in  eight  and  one-half  hours.  You  leave  Edinburgh 
at  10.15  A.M.  and  reach  Euston  square  before  7  p.m. 
As  there  are  several  important  stations  between  the  two 
cities  at  which  long  steps  are   made,  the  train  must 


60     RAIL  WA  V  TRA  VELLING  IN  ENGLAND. 

make  between  many  of  the  stations  much  more  than 
fifty  miles  an  hour.  The  speed  was  so  great  at  times 
that  it  caused  unusual  vibration,  and  at  times  it  gave 
me  a  slight  reminder  of  sea-sickness. 

The  compartment  was  built  to  seat  two  persons.  In  it 
there  were  two  large,  softly-upholstered,  sleep-inviting 
arm-chairs,  one  on  each  side  of  the  car.  Between  the 
two  chairs  at  the  back  was  a  door  leading  to  a  lavatory 
for  the  sole  use  of  the  two  passengers.  It  was  supplied 
with  iced-water,  washing  water,  towels,  mirror  and  all 
the  etceteras  and  conveniences  that  are  desirable  in 
travelling.  The  compartment  had  six  windows — two  at 
each  side  and  two  in  front.  Between  the  two  front 
windows  was  a  handsomely-framed  bevelled  mirror. 
The  floor  was  richly  carpeted  and  the  compartment  was 
supplied  with  a  number  of  brass  brackets  and  hooks  for' 
the  travellers'  impedimenta.  But  more  than  this — 
across  the  front,  breast  high,  was  a  shelf  about  six 
inches  wide  to  hold  books  and  papers,  and  below  this 
another  shelf  about  the  same  width  for  a  foot-rest. 

The  compartment  was  seven  feet  square  and  seven  feet 
high.  Here  a  man  and  wife  or  two  friends  can  make 
themselves  about  as  comfortable  as  if  they  were  at  home 
in  their  own  drawing-room.  You  exchange  your  shoes 
for  slippers,  don  your  smoking  jacket  and  if  your  com- 
panion does  not  object,  you  can  enjoy  a  fragrant  Havana. 
To  be  sure  this  is  against  the  rules  of  the  company  and 
your  indulgence  in  the  weed  would  cost  you  forty  shil- 
lings if  you  were  found  out,  but  the  distances  are  great 
and  the  stops  few  on  this  "  flying  Scotchman,"  so  there  is 
ample  time  to  enjoy  a  smoke  on  the  sly.  No  extra  fare 
is  demanded  for  this  most  luxurious  vehicle  ;  it  is 
simply  ranked  as  a  first-class  carriage,  but  you  had  bet- 
ter write  to  the  station  master  and  engage  such  a  com- 
partment a  day  or  two  in  advance  of  your  intended 
journey,  for  not  more  than  one  of  these  small  compart- 
ments is  by  chance  attached  even  to  a   "  flying  Scotch- 


RAIL  WA  V  TRA  YELLING  IN  ENGLAND.     61 

man. "  No  extra  charge  is  made  for  this  engagement 
in  advance. 

The  complaint  years  ago  that  passengers  were  locked 
in  the  cars  can  seldom  now  be  made.  The  custom  is 
almost  entirely  abolished  ;  it  caused  so  many  accidents. 
The  aim  of  each  and  every  passenger  on  a  British  rail- 
way is  to  secure  a  seat  with  his  back  to  the  engine.  In 
this  way  he  avoids  draughts  of  air  :  draughts  from  a 
bottle  they  never  object  to.  In  fact  both  men  and  women 
drink  often  and  deeply  during  a  journey,  but  it  does  not 
seem  to  affect  them. 

Time  tables  are  not  given  away  as  with  us  :  the  charge 
is  a  penny,  two  cents.  You  never  hear  "  all  aboard  "  at 
railway  stations,  but  the  much  pleasanter  sounding 
words,  "take  your  seats,  please." 


LUGGAGE  AND  BAGGAGE. 


You  do  occasionally  get  a  paper  check  or  receipt  for 
baggage  on  a  continental  railway,  but  in  England  seldom 
or  never.  Still  a  piece  of  baggage  is  seldom  lost  on  an 
English  railway.  It  gets  to  its  proper  destination  at  last, 
but  it  seems  to  be  more  by  good  luck  than  by  good 
management.  Baggage,  or  "luggage,"  as  they  term  it, 
goes  astray  sometimes,  but  on  the  other  hand,  the  system 
for  tracing  and  finding  it  is  excellent.  They  have  a  "lost 
luggage  "  department  in  the  principal  stations. 

They  are  very  particular  as  to  the  quantity  of  bag- 
gage. Each  passenger  is  allowed  so  many  pounds.  At 
every  station  there  is  an  official  who  keeps  a  sharp  eye 
(m  the  porters  who  handle  trunks,  and  at  the  slightest 
suspicion  of  overweight  the  official  will  order  a  trunk  on 
the  scales  with  which  all  stations  are  supplied. 

There  are  strong  racks  in  every  car  for  light  luggage, 
but  a  great  deal  of  what  we  should  term  heavy  baggage 


62     RAIL  WA  V  TEA  YELLING  IN  ENGLAND. 

finds  its  way  on  the  racks  and  under  the  seats,  EngHsh- 
men  travel  with  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  impedi- 
menta. They  carry  large  satchels,  also  portmanteaus 
resembling  a  good-sized  trunk — all  because  no  checks 
are  given.  Everybody  wants  to  keep  his  luggage  in  hand 
or  in  sight. 

There  is  a  prominent  sig^  posted  in  some  of  the  large 
stations  to  this  effect :  "Any  porter  who  is  discovered 
accepting  a  fee  will  be  instaijtly  dismissed."  And  yet 
you  won't  get  your  trunk  moved  an  inch  without  drop- 
ping a  few  coppers  into  a  porter's  hand.  The  fee  sys- 
tem prevails  everywhere,  from  the  station  master  who 
furnishes  information  to  the  uniformed  porter  who 
whistles  for  a  "four-wheeler"  or  hansom.  In  many 
cases  the  door  of  the  toilet  room  is  only  unlocked  by 
dropping  a  penny  in  a  slot.  But  this  is  a  better  arrange- 
ment than  exists  at  stations  on  the  continent,  where  an 
old  woman  stands  guard,  whom  you  must  fee  before  you 
are  allowed  to  leave. 


A  ROYAL   RAILWAY  TRIP. 


When  the  Queen  of  England  makes  a  railway  journey 
it  is  an  event  of  no  ordinary  importance.  With  her  it  is 
not,  as  with  the  President  of  the  United  States  for 
example,  so  simple  a  matter  as  climbing  up  the  steps  of 
a  Pullman  or  getting  into  a  Pennsylvania  Florida  special 
or  Chicago  limited,  and  proceeding  without  fuss.  No, 
when  Queen  Victoria  is  about  to  travel  preparations  are 
made  long  beforehand  and  all  the  regular  arrangements 
of  the  road  are  subservient  to  the  accommodation  of  the 
royal  train. 

When  Her  Majesty  journeyed  by  the  Caledonian  Rail- 
way from  Carlisle  to  Aberdeen,  en  route  to  Gosport  and 
Ballater,  many  days  previous  there  was  issued  the  table 


RAIL  WA  Y  TRA  YELLING  IN  ENGLAND.     63 

of  instructions  for  working  the  trains  over  the  line  on  that 
day.  They  were  intended  for  the  use  of  the  company's 
employees  only,  who  were  forbidden  to  make  known 
their  contents.  A  pilot  engine  was  sent  over  the  road 
twenty  minutes  before  the  royal  train,  in  charge  of  the 
foreman  of  the  locomotive  department.  This  engine 
maintained  throughout  the  journey  the  uniform  interval 
of  twenty  minutes.  No  other  train,  engine  or  vehicle, 
except  passenger  trains,  was  permitted  to  travel  on  the 
other  track  between  the  passing  of  the  pilot  and  the 
royal  train,  and  even  passenger  trains  had  to  slow  down 
to  ten  miles  per  hour. 

One  of  the  orders  issued  was  this  :  ' '  Drivers  of  such 
trains  as  are  standing  on  sidings  or  adjoining  lines, 
waiting  for  the  passing  of  the  royal  train,  must  pre- 
vent their  engines  from  emitting  smoke  or  making  a 
noise  by  blowing  off  steam  when  the  royal  train  is 
passing." 

Brakesmen  were  enjoined  to  see  that  nothing  pro- 
jected from  their  trains.  Each  foreman  plate-layer,  or 
"section-boss,"  as  we  would  say,  after  examining  his 
length  of  line,  stationed  himself  at  the  south  end  and  an 
assistant  at  the  north  ;  after  the  pilot  had  passed  they 
walked  till  they  met,  seeing  that  all  was  right.  The 
stations  were  kept  clear  and  the  public  admitted  at  one 
station  only,  the  last.  Even  here,  cheering  or  other 
demonstration  was  forbidden,  "the  object  being  that 
Her  Majesty  should  be  perfectly  undisturbed  during 
the  journey."  These  instructions,  signed  by  James 
Thompson,  general  manager,  and  Irv^ine  Kempt,  gen- 
eral superintendent,  were  obeyed  in  their  minutest  de- 
tail. 

It  mu5t  not  be  supposed  that  the  company  has  to 
pocket  the  loss  when  the  Queen  travels.  The  royal 
lady  not  only  does  not  travel  on  "passes,"  but  she  pays 
all  expenses  incurred.  A  copy  of  the  instructions 
printed  in  gold  are  presented  to  the  Queen  and  she  can- 


64     RAIL  WA  V  TRA  YELLING  IN  ENGLAND. 

not  fail  to  be  gratified  by  the  care  and  thought  exhibited 
by  the  company. 

The  entire  mileage  of  the  Caledonian  Railway  is  one 
thousand  miles  ;  the  main  line  from  Carlisle  to  Aber- 
deen, over  which  the  queen  travelled,  is  about  two 
hundred  and  forty  miles.  It  traverses  a  beautiful  coun- 
try. From  this  great  trunk  run  out  branches  and 
connections  by  steamer  in  all  directions — reaching  to 
all  big  towns  of  the  country,  most  of  the  small  ones,  and 
all  the  districts  famed  in  Scottish  song  or  history,  the 
highlands,  the  lochs,  the  seaboard,  etc.  The  road  is  a 
model  road  and  one  of  the  best  appointed  in  Great 
Britain.  The  tourist,  the  student  and  the  sportsman 
are  offered  strong  inducements  to  avail  themselves  of 
the  tours  arranged  by  the  Caledonian  company. 


THE  NORTH  WESTERN  RAILWAY. 

One  of  the  largest  English  railway  systems  is  that  of 
the  London  and  North  Western.  The  territory  covered 
by  this  railway  extends  from  London  in  the  south  to 
Carlisle  in  the  north,  and  from  Cambridge  in  the  east  to 
Holyhead  in  the  west — an  area  of  three  hundred  miles 
in  breadth.  The  main  office  of  the  government  is  in 
London,  but  the  capital,  so  to  speak,  is  Crewe,  a  town 
of  thirty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  consisting  entirely 
of  the  employees  of  the  railway  and  their  families.  The 
total  number  in  the  railway's  service  does  not  fall  far 
short  of  sixty  thousand.  The  annual  budget  amounts 
to  ten  million  pounds,  while  the  funded  debt  has 
reached  a  total  of  one  hundred  million  pounds  sterling. 
■  The  London  and  North  Western  shops  at  Crewe  have 
to  keep  in  repair  a  stock  of  engines  that  is  worth  five 
million  pounds  sterling,  and  while  they  do  not  indeed 
put  a  girdle  round  the  earth  every  forty  minutes,  they 


RAIL  WA  Y  TRA  YELLING  IN  ENGLAND.     65 

do  literally  every  four  hours,  and  in  doing  so  the  en- 
gines consume  a  million  tons  of  coal  per  annum.  On  an 
average,  it  is  reckoned  that  every  five  days  an  old  en- 
gfine  is  withdrawn  and  replaced  by  a  new  one. 

Of  late  years  the  company  has  been  experimenting  on 
an  extensive  scale  with  a  system  of  metallic  permanent 
way.  Steel  "  keys  "  fasten  the  rails  into  steel  "  chairs," 
which  in  their  turn  are  riveted  down  to  steel  sleepers. 
About  thirty  miles  of  line  has  been  laid  on  this  system, 
with  about  sixty  thousand  sleepers.  So  far  the  results 
are  understood  to  be  satisfactory.  The  question  in- 
volved in  the  conflict  between  steel  and  wooden  sleep- 
ers is  gigantic.  A  rough  calculation  shows  that  to  re- 
place the  wooden  sleepers  on  existing  lines  in  Great  Brit- 
ain only  would  require  about  four  million  tons  of  steel, 
without  reckoning  the  weight  of  the  chairs  and  keys. 
And  great  Britain  has  only  one-fifteenth  of  the  railway 
mileage  of  the  world. 

In  some  ways  the  "  goods  "  traffic  arrangements  of  the 
road  at  Liverpool  are  even  more  remarkable  than  those  in 
London.  At  Liverpool  the  North  Western  has  six  goods 
stations,  two  of  them  reached  by  tunnels  each  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  in  length,  constructed  for  their  use  alone. 
One  of  these  stations,  Edgehill,  is  called  a  goods 
"yard,"  but  this  yard  contains  fifty-seven  and  a  half 
miles  of  land,  covers  two  hundred  acres  of  gfround,  and 
has  cost  about  two  million  pounds  sterling — nearly  ten 
millions  of  dollars. 

The  conductors  on  the  New  York  street  cars,  like  the 
New  York  policemen,  are  sullen  and  sour;  they  seem 
ill-tempered,  if  not  ill-natured.  You  seldom  or  never 
see  a  smile  on  their  lips,  and  as  for  giving  utterance  to 
the  common  and  easy  phrase,  ' '  thank  you, "  when  they 
receive  a  fare,  they  wouldn't  be  guilty  of  such  a  piece  of 
politeness ;  not  they. 

It  is  different  in  England,  on  the  Continent,  every- 
where in  Europe.     Whether  on  a  steam  road,  a  steam- 


66     RAIL  WA  V  TRA  VELLTNG  IN  ENGLAND. 

boat,  a  tram  or  an  omnibus,  no  officer  or  conductor 
would  think  of  receiving  a  fare  without  thanking  a  pas- 
senger audibly,  and  even  when  an  officer  opens  the 
door  or  looks  into  the  window  of  a  carriage  for  the  pur- 
pose of  examining  tickets,  you  will  not  hear  the  short, 
sharp,  curt  demand,  "tickets,"  as  in  the  States,  but 
"  all  tickets,  please,"  in  a  pleasant  and  agreeable  tone. 


AN   ENGLISH   RAILWAY   GUARD. 


THE  CRYPT  OF  ST.  PAUL'S. 


All  Americans  who  go  to  London  visit  Westminster 
Abbey,  and  some  of  them  make  more  than  one  visit. 
There  is  a  rare  charm  about  the  grand  old  pile.  I 
never  go  to  London  without  visiting  the  Abbey,  and 
this  was  also  the  custom  of  the  late  Aaron  J.  Vander- 
poel,  with  whom  I  had  the  honor  of  crossing  once  or 
twice.  On  one  voyage  westward,  a  fellow  passenger 
was  James  R.  Cuming,  of  the  famous  law  firm  of  Van- 
derpoel,  Cuming  and  Goodwin.  Mr.  Cuming  and  I  were 
fellow  students  in  the  old  law  firm  of  Brown,  Hall  and 
Vanderpoel  in  the  days  of  District  Attorney  Blunt, 
never-mind-how-many  years  ago.  Mr.  Cuming's  hair  is 
now  tinged  with  grray,  but  he  has  the  same  genial, 
agfreeable  qualities,  and  he  is  just  as  modest,  eminent 
and  successful  lawyer  though  he  now  is,  as  he  was 
when  he  and  I  were  boys  together  in  the  Broadway 
Bank  building  on  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Park 
place.  But  none  of  this  personal  matter  has  aught  to 
do  with  the  subject  in  hand. 

I  was  about  to  say  that  while  all  Americans  go  to 
Westminster  Abbey  to  see  the  monuments  and  other  in- 
teresting things,  all  of  them  do  not  know  that  two  of 
England's  greatest  men,  her  most  renowned  heroes  of 
modern  times,  are  buried  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral — Lord 
Nelson  and  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 

One  reason  why  American  and  other  tourists   who 

visit  St.   Paul's  seldom  see  the  tombs  of  these  great 

men  is  because  they  do  not  know  that  the  cathedral 

contains  them.     The  tombs  are  in  the  crypt,  and  un- 
to? ^^ 


68  THE  CRYPT  OF  ST.   PAUL'S. 

less  you  knock  on  the  gfreat  iron  gates  leading  to 
the  crypt  and  pay  a  sixpence,  you  cannot  obtain  ad- 
mission. 

But  besides  the  tombs  of  these  two  celebrities,  a  num- 
ber of  other  eminent  Englishmen  lie  buried  in  the 
cathedral.  Among  the  monuments  (over  their  tombs) 
may  be  read  the  names  of  General  Gordon,  Admiral 
Napier,  Hallam,  the  historian,  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  the 
architect,  and  the  famous  antists.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds, 
Landseer,  Benjamin  West,  and  J.  W.  M.  Turner — in 
fact,  as  there  is  a  Poet's  corner  in  Westminster  Abbey, 
so  there  is  a  Painter's  corner  in  St.  Paul's  Cathedral. 

Nelson's  remains  are  covered  by  a  great  sarcophagus 
of  black  marble,  which  was  intended  for  the  tomb  of 
Cardinal  Wolsey.  The  Duke  of  Wellington  is  buried  in 
a  sarcophagus  of  porphyry,  of  which  the  upper  part, 
forming  the  lid,  alone  weighs  seventeen  tons. 

A  visit  to  St.  Paul's  discovers  many  other  interesting 
things,  and  it  is  the  opinion  of  the  writer  that  it  is  one  of 
the  three  grandest  public  buildings  of  modern  times,  the 
other  two  being  the  Capitol  in  Washington  and  the  Palais 
de  Justice  in  Brussels. 

The  cathedral  itself  has  an  interesting  history.  The 
first  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  was  built  by  Ethelbert  of 
Kent,  in  the  year  6io.  It  is  said  to  have  been  destroyed 
by  fire  in  961,  rebuilt  and  again  destroyed  by  fire  in 
1086,  rebuilt  again  and  for  the  third  time  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1666.  The  present  structure  was  built  by  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  and  took  thirty-five  years  to  complete, 
being  finished  in  17 10,  at  a  cost  of  something  like 
;£747.954  sterling — nearly  four  millions  of  dollars.  It 
covers  more  than  two  acres  of  ground.  The  height  from 
the  pavement  to  the  top  of  the  cross  is  three  hundred  and 
sixty-four  feet  three  inches.  You  get  a  good  view  of 
the  building  from  the  Thames.  The  best  view  of  the 
building,  however,  is  from  the  top  of  an  omnibus 
going  east  down  Fleet  street,  but  this  view  is  now  some- 


THE  CR  YP  T  OF  ST.  PA  ULS. 


69 


what  marred  or  obstructed  by  the  railway  arch  which 
crosses  Ludgate  Circus. 

A  few  figures  about  the  bell  and  the  clock  may  not  be 
without  interest.  The  former,  called  Great  Paul, 
weighs  sixteen  tons,  fourteen  hundredweight,  two  quar- 
ters, nineteen  pounds  ;  height,  eight  feet  ten  inches  ; 
diameter  at  base,  nine  feet  six  and  a  half  inches  ;  thick- 
ness where  the  clapper  strikes,  eighteen  and  three-quar- 
ter inches.  The  clapper  is  seven  feet  nine  inches  long 
and  weighs  four  hundredweight.  The  note  is  E  flat. 
The  clock  has  two  faces,  each  nearly  twenty  feet  in 
diameter.  The  minute  hand  is  nine  feet  eight  inches 
long  and  weighs  seventy-five  pounds  ;  the  hour  hand  is 
five  feet  nine  inches  long  and  weighs  forty-four  pounds. 
The  hour  figures  are  two  feet,  two  and  a  half  inches 
long.  The  pendulum  is  sixteen  feet  long  and  to  it  is  at- 
tached a  weight  of  one  hundred  and  eight  pounds.  It 
beats  once  in  two  seconds. 


THE  QUEEN'S  MEWS. 


Windsor,  the  royal  residence,  twenty-five  miles  from 
London,  attracts  of  course  .many  American  visitors,  its 
features  of  interest  including,  besides  the  castle  and 
park,  the  celebrated  stables.  But  as  for  stables,  the 
Queen's  Mews,  near  the  centre  of  London,  offer  a  much 
more  brilliant  show.  Admission  is  gained  with  little 
difficulty  or  formality — by  Americans.  You  simply  call 
at  the  American  Legation  in  Victoria  street,  two  or  three 
blocks  (as  we'd  say  in  New  York),  from  the  Victoria 
railway  station — a  "penny  'bus"  from  Charing  Cross 
passes  the  door.  It  is  not  necessary  to  ask  for  Minister 
Lincoln  ;  your  card  sent  to  Mr.  White,  the  secretary  of 
the  legation,  or,  in  his  absence,  to  Mr.  McCormick,  the 
courteous  assistant  secretary,  will  secure  you  in  return 
the  necessary  pasteboard  for  yourself  and  party  to  visit 
the  Queen's  Mews  in  Buckingham  Palace  road — a  very 
short  walk  from  the  legation  and  a  stone's  throw,  so  to 
speak,  from  Victoria  station. 

The  stables  cover  a  few  acres  of  ground.  They  con- 
tain the  royal  harness,  the  carriage  of  state  and  other 
carriages,  and  have  stalls  for  about  one  hundred  horses, 
in  the  care  of  all  of  which  about  thirty  or  forty  men  are 
employed,  those  longest  in  the  service  being  privileged 
to  live  on  the  premises.  There  is  nothing  very  remark- 
able about  the  horses'  quarters  ;  the  stalls  are  not  more 
luxurious  nor  are  they  kept  in  better  condition  than 
many  private  gentlemen's  stables  in  New  York  and 
Newport,  nor  are  the  horses  particularly  worthy  of 
note,  excepting  the  ten  large  black  stallions  and  the 
cream-colored  stallions,  used  in  drawing  the  state  car- 

70 


THE  QUEEN'S  MEWS.  71 

riage  on  state  occasions,  as,  for  instance,  when  the 
Queen  opens  parliament.  The  tails  of  these  stallions, 
the  black  and  cream-colored,  all  reach  to  and  almost 
sweep  the  ground,  with  the  exception  of  one  big  black 
animal,  whose  brevity  of  appendage  is  made  up  on  state 
occasions  by  the  addition  of  a  false  tail. 

The  creams  are  eleven  in  number,  and  it  is  extraor- 
dinary how  perfectly  gentle  and  quiet  they  are.  The 
fact  that  a  stranger  can  approach  and  examine  them  as 
closely  as  wished  for  speaks  volumes  for  the  discipline, 
and  the  care  and  the  intelligence  of  the  stablemen.  The 
cream-colored  horses  were  brought  over  from  Hanover 
originally  by  George  I.,  and  from  that  time,  with  the 
exception  of  the  period  between  1803  and  18 14,  when 
Napoleon  I.  was  in  possession  of  that  city,  until  1837 
they  were  regularly  supplied  from  the  electoral  stud  at 
Hanover.  Napoleon  in  1803  captured  the  cream-colored 
stud  which  belonged  to  the  Elector  of  Hanover,  and 
made  use  of  eight  creams  at  his  own  coronation  ;  so 
from  then  until  his  downfall  in  18 14  the  black  horses 
were  used  on  state  occasions  in  England.  Since  1837  the 
creams  have  been  bred  at  the  stud  farm  at  Hampton 
Court. 

The  harness  for  ordinary  use  is  of  black  leather  with 
elaborate  bright  brass  trimmings,  that  for  state  occasions 
is  also  of  black  leather,  the  crowns  and  coats-of-arms, 
in  solid  metal,  being  heavily  and  richly  gilded.  The 
harness  is  kept  in  perfect  condition,  and  kept  on  show, 
protected  by  glass  doors  and  windows.  You  may  see 
and  admire  the  royal  reins,  but  they  are  not  to  be 
handled  by  common  fingers. 

Among  the  carriages  there  is  one  kept  for  its  past  his- 
tory and  glory,  not  for  present  use — a  gaudy,  gilded, 
theatrical-looking  vehicle,  the  weight  of  which  is  four 
tons,  the  great,  heavily-tired  wheels  of  which  measure 
six  feet  in  diameter,  the  whole  being  of  the  respectable 
age  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  years.     The  most  beauti- 


72  THE  QUEEN'S  MEWS. 

ful  feature  of  this  curious  relic  of  by-gone  days  is  the 
eight  pictures  set  in  as  many  panels,  painted  by  Cipri- 
ani, an  Italian  artist  famous  in  his  day. 

But  the  carriages  for  Her  Majesty's  ordinary  use  and 
the  carriage  which  is  reserved  for  state  occasions,  which 
is  drawn  by  the  eight  cream  horses,  are  models  of  com- 
fort, luxury  and  beauty.  They  are  upholstered  with 
dark  blue  cloth,  the  only  interior  ornaments  being  of 
worsted  fringe  matching  the  clgth  in  color.  The  wheels 
and  body  are  dark  blue,  the  panels  being  painted  in  a 
lighter  shade,  the  centre  of  each  door  panel  relieved  by 
the  royal  crest  of  arms  painted  in  rich  colors,  bxit  not 
larger  in  size  than  a  silver  dollar.  The  carriages  are 
hung  on  C  springs  and  yield  from  any  point  to  the 
slightest  touch. 

I  ventured  the  remark  to  one  of  the  footmen  in  charge 
that  when  Her  Majesty  places  her  foot  on  the  step  her 
weight  must  make  quite  a  depression  of  the  springs. 
"  Does  it,"  said  the  royal  flunkey  ;  "you  should  stand 
'ere  when  the  Diichess  of  Teck  gets  in.  The  Queen's 
cousin  is  a  werry  heavy  woman,  God  bless  her.  If  you 
was  to  see  her  get  in  you  would  see  a  depression,  or 
whatever  you  call  it." 

You  will  make  a  inistake  if  on  leaving  the  Mews  you 
do  not  drop  a  shilling  into  the  ready  palm  of  both  coach- 
man and  footman. 


THE  FINEST  SQUARE   IN   LONDON. 


Stand  on  the  high  ground,  above  the  fountains,  in 
Trafalgar  Square,  with  your  back  to  the  g^eat,  grim- 
looking,  granite  block  of  buildings  formed  by  the 
National  Gallery ;  behind  the  Nelson  column  ;  yes, 
much  farther  back  ;  behind  the  statue  of  Gordon,  which, 
while  you  are  in  that  position  is  overshadowed  by  the 
admiral's  statue. 

This  view  is  pronounced  by  Boot's  District  Guide  to 
London,  and  by  many  London  writers  "  the  finest  site 
in  Europe, "  but  this  is  an  extravagant  statement.  While 
it  is  interesting  and  attractive  it  is  by  no  means  so  open, 
so  large,  nor  anything  like  so  beautiful  as  the  Place  de 
la  Concorde  in  Paris,  with  its  very  much  grander  and 
more  artistic  fountains,  its  obelisk,  its  many  noble 
buildings,  far  and  near  ;  the  Tuileries  Gardens  seen  in 
one  direction  and  the  great  Arc  de  Triomphe,  at  the 
head  of  the  Champs  Elysees,  in  another. 

Trafalgar  Sqxiare  was  dedicated  to  Lord  Nelson  and 
commemorates  his  glorious  death  in  the  battle  of  Tra- 
falgar, which  occurred  October  22,  1805,  and  in  which 
the  English  fleet  gained  victory  over  the  combined 
armaments  of  France  and  Spain.  In  the  centre  of  the 
square,  to  the  memory  of  the  great  hero,  rises  a  massive 
granite  column,  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet  high. 
It  is  surmounted  by  Baily's  statue  of  Nelson,  seventeen 
feet  high,  the  capital  of  the  column  being  of  bronze, 
melted  from  cannon  captured  from  the  French.  Tlie 
four  bas-reliefs  at  the  base  represent  respectively  the 
death  of  Nelson,  by  Carew  ;  the  battle  of  the  Nile,  by 

73 


74 


THE  FINEST  SQ  UA  RE  IN  LONDO  N.  75 

Woodingtcm,  the  bombardment  of  Copenhagen,  by 
Temouth,  and  the  battle  of  St.  Vincent,  by  Watson. 
You  will  notice  in  the  accompanying  illustration  that 
the  admiral's  sword  is  in  his  left  hand.  Nelson  having 
lost  his  right  arm.  At  the  foot  of  the  pedestal  is  in- 
scribed his  last  command : 

"  England  expects  ever}'  man  this  day  will  do 
his  duty. " 

To  the  extreme  left  is  St.  Martin  Church,  as  the  poet, 
William  Winter,  explains,  "no  longer  in  the  fields." 
One  half  of  each  of  its  grray  columns  has  been  turned 
black,  not  by  time,  but  by  the  quicker  action  of  London 
soot.  These  dark  shadows  on  the  once  light-colored 
buildings  in  London  are  offensive  to  some  people ;  to  my 
eyes  they  are  artistic,  picturesque  and  uncommonly 
pleasing.  St.  Martin's  was  completed  by  Gibbs,  in  1726. 
Its  exterior,  especially  the  Corinthian  portico,  is  worth 
studying.  If  you  have  a  fancy  for  such  things  and  in- 
vestigate further,  you  will  find  here  the  graves  of  the 
actress,  Nell  Gwynn,  a  favorite  of  Charles  II. ,  Farquhar, 
the  dramatist,  and  the  notorious  Jack  Shepard, 

To  your  near  left  in  the  square  is  the  equestrian  statue 
of  King  George  IV.,  holding  a  mace  in  his  right  hand; 
to  your  near  right,  on  a  line  wnth  this,  stands  a  heavy, 
solid  granite  pedestal  with  its  large  capstone  ready  for 
its  companion-piece — another  statue,  when  the  man 
and  the  occasion  shall  come. 

In  front  of  the  King  George  statue,  nearer  the  road- 
way, is  the  life-size  statue  of  General  Henry  Havelock, 
bearing  this  inscription  : — 

To 

Major  General 

Sir  Henry  Havelock,  K.  C.  B. 

and  his  brave  companions  in  arms 

during  the  campaigfn  in  India 

1857. 


76  THE  FINEST  SQUARE  IN  LONDON. 

"Soldiers:  your  labours, 

your  privations,  your  sufferings, 

and  your  valour, 

will  not  be  forgotten 

by  a  grateful  country. " 

To  your  right,  in  front  of  the  unoccupied  pedestal,  is 
a  companion  piece  to  the  Havelock  statue,  the  statue  of 
another  soldier,  Sir  Charles  Napier,  designed  by 
Adams.  / 

To  the  plashing  fountains  below  and  to  the  four  mam- 
moth, finely  formed  lions  which,  couchant  with  their 
fore  paws  crossed  and  mouths  partly  open,  seem  to 
stand  a  strong  but  silent  gtiard  over  the  living  water,  it 
is  not  necessary  to  direct  attention.  They  are  Sii  Edwin 
Landseer's  lions  and  the  eye  cannot  escape  them. 

This  is  a  hotel  centre.  To  the  left,  on  a  line  with  old 
St.  Martin  Church,  is  Morley's  hotel,  also  old,  but  with 
a  very  attractive  exterior  all  the  same.  On  the  same 
line,  but  across  the  busy  strand  and  extending  far  down 
Northumberland  avenue,  is  a  comparatively  new  hotel, 
with  an  imposing  semi-circular,  smooth,  dark  gray 
fagade,  relieved  by  many  light-colored  window-awnings. 
It  is  the  Grand  Hotel,  which  was  erected  in  1880  on  the 
site  of  Northumberland  House.  No  location  in  London 
for  the  purpose  is  choicer,  nor  is  there  in  London  any 
building  better  constructed  or  better  appointed  for  its 
purpose.  In  Northumberland  avenue  is  the  Hotel  Vic- 
toria, known  and  known  favorably  to  all  Americans  who 
visit  London,  A  little  further  on,  parallel  with  the  Vic- 
toria, separated  only  by  a  narrow  passage,  is  the  Hotel 
Metropole,  one  of  the  celebrated  chain  of  Gordon 
Hotels,  three  links  of  which  may  be  found  in  London, 
one  of  which  is  the  Metropole,  at  Brighton,  others  being 
in  other  parts  of  England  and  in  the  south  of  France. 

A  little  east  of  the  Square  in  the  Strand  are  both  the 
Charing  Cross  Hotel  and  the  Golden  Cross  Hotel.  I  have 
tried  the  first  and  it  was  atrial,  indeed  ;  the  second  does 


THE  FIX  EST  SQ  UARE  IN  LONDON.  77 

not  look  any  more  inviting,  so  I  never  made  the  experi- 
ment. 

Pall  Mall  is  a  famous  club  centre,  but  there  are  several 
noted  club  houses  in  this  locality  also.  Directly  in  view, 
on  your  right,  serving  as  a  background  for  the  unoccu- 
pied, dark  pedestal,  loom  up  the  light-colored  walls  of 
the  Union  Club  ;  dating  from  1824.  This  is  on  what 
New  Yorkers  would  call  "the  comer  of  Trafalgar 
square  and  Cockspur  street,"  but  you  seldom  or  never 
hear  such  a  useful  phrase  in  London  as  on  the  comer  of 
this  street  or  that  avenue. 

It  is  not  visible  from  where  you  are,  but  parallel  with 
and  next  door  to  the  Grand,  on  the  avenue,  is  the  build- 
ing of  the  Constitutional  Club.  The  club  has  a  very 
large  membership  and  it  is  full.  I  know  of  names  which 
were  put  up  years  ago,  and  which  are  still  waiting  their 
turn.  The  Constitutional  is  a  popular  club  ;  the  annual 
dues  are  low.  The  building  has  a  colored,  ornate  front, 
and  a  French  roof.  It  is  of  great  size,  affording  ample 
space  for  reading,  smoking,  dining  and  bed-rooms. 
There  are  two  billiard-rooms,  one  for  members  only, 
and  one  for  members  who  may  bring  a  friend  for  a  quiet 
game. 

Down  the  avenue,  on  the  opposite  side,  below  the 
Hotel  Metropole  and  overlooking  the  gardens  at  its  feet 
and  the  river  beyond,  is  the  National  Liberal  Club.  It 
stands  on  a  comer  and  its  lofty  tower  rises  twenty-two 
feet  above  the  highest  point  of  the  hotel  which  it  faces. 
Its  interior  is  as  g^and  as  the  exterior  is  imposing.  No 
expense  was  spared  in  its  construction,  and  it  is  worth 
seeing.  A  shilling  carefully  expended  at  the  door  may 
gain  you  a  glance  at  the  ground  floor  and  its  rich  marble 
fittings,  if  even  you  be  not  a  Liberal  in  politics.  I  tried 
this  plan  myself  and  it  worked  satisfactorily. 

Remain  in  the  same  spot,  with  your  back  still  turned 
toward  the  National  Gallery  ;  look  straight  ahead,  be- 
yond the  Nelson  column,  and  in  the  roadway,  on  what 


IS  THE  FINEST  SQUARE  IN  LONDON. 

they  call  in  London  an  "island,"  you  will  notice  an 
equestrian  statue.  It  is  a  little  the  worse  for  wear,  hav- 
ing been  buried  for  many  years  and  afterwards  dug  out 
of  the  earth.  The  tail  of  the  horse  looks  like  what  it 
is,  a  metal  tail,  and  it  almost  sweeps  the  grovmd,  and 
stiff  and  square  on  the  back  of  the  horse  sits  that  unfor- 
tunate king,  Charles  I. ,  who  was  unmercifully  beheaded. 
The  statue  is  ungainly,  but  England  reveres  things,  if 
even  they  are  ugly,  on  accoui\t  of  their  historical  asso- 
ciations, so  King  Charles  is  likely  to  remain  in  his  un- 
graceful position,  an  offence  to  the  eye.  This  same 
statue,  however,  if  not  beautiful,  has  its  uses  ;  it  marks 
the  "  centre  of  London,"  and  for  that  reason  cab  fares 
are  reckoned  from  this  spot. 

Never  mind  the  poor  animal  or  his  rider.  Artistically, 
they  are  not  worth  dwelling  on.  Let  youi  eye  wander 
across  them  to  the  stirring  scenes  beyond.  A  trifle  to 
the  right  there  radiates  from  the  square  another  street, 
one  side  of  which  only  is  Charing  Cross,  the  other, 
Whitehall.  "Scotland  Yard,"  the  former  police  head- 
quarters, is  on  the  left ;  on  the  right,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
farther,  is  the  Admiralty;  then  "the  Horse  Guards," 
which  is  only  a  gateway  to  St.  James's  Park.  A  little 
farther  south,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  Home  Office,  but 
there  the  avenue  changes  its  name  to  Parliament  street, 
at  the  southern  end  of  which  is  that  venerable  pile, 
Westminster  Abbey,  and  adjoining  it  are  the  Houses  of 
Parliament.  These,  as  buildings,  are  best  seen  from 
the  river,  but  you  will  get  a  good  view,  in  the  distance, 
from  where  you  stand,  although  it  be  half  a  mile  from 
your  position,  of  the  magnificent  clock-tower  of  the 
Houses  of  Parliament.  It  makes  a  striking  picture,  with 
the  Surrey  Hills  in  the  background. 

The  clock-tower,  which  is  forty  feet  square,  rises  to 
the  elevation  of  three  hundred  and  sixteen  feet.  The 
dials  of  the  clock,  which  it  takes  two  hours  each  week 
to  wind,  are  twenty-two  feet  in  diameter  ;   the  hour- 


THE  FINEST  SQUARE  IN  LONDON.  79 

hand  is  nine  feet  Jong,  and  the  minute-hand,  which,  in 
spite  of  its  tenuity  weighs  two  cwt.,  is  sixteen  feet 
long.  The  illumination  of  the  enamelled  glass  dials, 
each  of  which  is  provided  with  sixty  gas  jets,  is  ingeni- 
ously controlled  by  the  clock-work,  their  light  waning 
with  the  dawn  of  day  and  increasing  with  the  fading 
twilight. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  touch  upon  the  interiors  of 
the  buildings  mentioned.  The  National  Gallery,  for 
instance,  upon  which  you  have  turned  your  back,  and 
which  Sir  Charles  Dilke  says  contains  perhaps,  on  the 
whole,  the  finest  collection  of  pictures  in  the  world,  ex- 
cept as  regards  modern  work,  might  occupy  your  time 
profitably  for  days,  but  if  you  wish  to  get  a  cursory 
glance  at  a  group  of  London  features  and  buildings 
interesting  from  their  historical  or  other  associations, 
no  other  site  in  London  offers  such  opportunities  as  the 
one  represented  in  the  above  illustration. 


80 


HAMPTON  COURT  PALACE. 


A     NoTABLK     Outing    Trip — The     Home    of    Indi- 
gent Royalty — Victoria's  Grape  Vine — The 
Famous  Maze — Bushey  Park — Twicken- 
ham Town — Pope's  Villa. 

To  my  mind  one  of  the  prettiest  outings  that  can  be 
easily  made  from  London  in  a  day  is  the  trip  to  Hamp- 
ton Court,  with  its  famous  old  palace,  its  gallery  of  one 
thousand  pictures,  and  its  uncommonly  beautiful  and 
highly  cultivated  grounds  and  gardens. 

The  ways  of  reaching  Hampton  Court  are  many  and 
varied.  It  is  sixteen  miles  from  London  by  rail,  twenty 
miles  by  water.  The  cheapest  and  quickest  way  is  by 
rail  from  Waterloo  station ;  time,  forty  minutes ; 
fare  one  way,  one  shilling  and  two  pence  (twenty-eight 
cents),  third  class ;  third  class  being  good  enough  for 
most  people  for  so  short  a  journey. 

'Buses  run  on  Sunday,  fare  one  and  six,  and  there  are 
stage  coaches  which  go  direct  for  two  shillings.  A  han- 
som costs  about  a  sovereign  (five  dollars)  for  the  day  : 
a  carriage  and  pair  much  more  than  that.  But  you  can 
vary  the  journey  ;  go  one  way  on  wheels  and  one  way 
by  water. 

The  water  route  is  slow,  and  it  is  monotonous,  also, 
unless  you  want  to  get  a  view  of  the  upper  Thames. 
The  river  is  very  pretty  near  here  ;  Maidenhead  and 
Marlow  not  far  distant. 

Another  route  is  by  rail  from  any  district  railway  sta- 
tion (underground),  either  via  Wimbledon  to  Hampton 

81 


83  HA  MP  TON  CO  UR  T  PA  LA  CE. 

Court  direct,  or  via  Richmond  to  Hampton  Wick  or 
Teddington  stations.  From  either  of  the  two  latter  it  is 
a  pleasant  walk  through  Bushey  Park.  During  the 
summer  months  it  may  be  reached  by  rail  to  Putney 
Bridge  (Fulham  station),  and  thence  direct  by  steam- 
boat, but  for  a  stranger  who  wants  to  go  direct  and  see 
Hampton  Court  Palace,  the  quickest  and  easiest  route 
is  the  one  first  mentioned — the  London  &  South  West- 
ern Railway  from  Waterloo  station. 

Besides  the  beauty  of  the  rural  scenery,  the  attractive 
surroundings  in  which  the  palace  is  set,  and  the  mass  of 
picturesque  old  buildings  themselves,  the  associations 
connected  therewith  are  notable  in  English  history. 
The  palace  was  built  by  the  wily  Wolsey,  and  was  oc- 
cupied by  a  long  line  of  royalty  from  Henry  VIII.  and 
Queen  Eli?abeth  down  to  Queen  Anne  and  the  first  of 
the  Hanoverian  monarchs.  Apartments  in  the  build- 
ings are  still  used  by  some  old  dames  and  others  of  title 
— pensioners  and  distant  relatives  of  the  Queen  who 
have  claims  on  the  crown. 

There  is  not  much  to  delight  the  eye  inside — large, 
cold,  stately  halls,  immense  bed  chambers,  a  lot  of  fusty 
tapestries,  frowsy  furniture  (relics  of  departed  gloryj, 
and  a  great  many  paintings,  most  of  them  ' '  bad  or  in- 
diflferent,"  which  have  only  their  age  to  recommend 
them. 

The  rules  by  which  visitors  must  be  governed  as  to 
their  moving  about  in  the  bam-like  galleries  are  absurd, 
and  they  are  unpleasantly  enforced  by  Jacks-in-office 
and  in  livery,  who  are  not  civil.  Especially  to  Ameri- 
cans are  they  insolent.  There  is  no  charge  for  admis- 
sion, and  as  there  is  not  the  slightest  excuse  for  de- 
manding a  fee,  the  attendants  are  not  only  cross,  but 
positively  rude  to  women. 

But  you  will  not  spend  mitch  time  in  the  gloomy 
apartments.  If  the  sun  shines,  as  it  does  sometimes  in 
London,  you  will  quickly  get  outside  the  mouldering 


HA  MP  TON  COURT  PALA  CE.  83 

walls  to  enjoy  the  attractive  grounds,  the  noble  trees, 
broad  meadows  and  the  fragrance  of  flowers  laid  out 
and  cared  for  as  only  an  English  gardener  can  cultivate 
flowers,  favored  as  he  is  by  the  moist  climate.  A  close 
observer  will  notice  sig^s  on  the  flower  beds  which  di- 
rect you  to  "  keep  off  the  verges,"  as,  over  there,  they 
call  the  borders  or  edges. 

One  of  the  sights  of  the  place  is  the  Queen's  grape- 
vine, which  is  tended  with  special  care,  growing  under 
a  great  glass  house,  and  from  the  roof  of  which  last 
August,  when  I  saw  it,  depended  twelve  hundred 
bunches  of  large  grapes.  I  didn't  count  the  bunches, 
but,  having  a  tiny  tape  measure  in  my  pocket,  I  did 
measure  the  trunk  of  the  vine  at  its  thickest  point  near 
the  ground,  and  found  it  to  be  thirty-five  inches  in  cir- 
cumference. It  is  as  much  as  your  liberty  is  worth  to 
pluck  one  of  these  grapes  ;  they  are  all  cut  down  for  the 
Queen  when  the  head  gardener  decides  that  they  are 
ripe. 

In  England  they  claim  that  this  is  the  largest  grape- 
vine in  the  world,  but  I  have  been  privileged  to  see  one 
growing  in  the  open  which  surpasses  it — a  vine  growing 
on  an  estate  near  "Stone  Hedge."  the  home  of  my  old 
and  esteemed  friend,  Captain  A.  L.  Anderson,  formerly 
of  New  York,  and  owner  of  the  Hudson  river  steamer 
Mary  Powell,  but  who  now  resides  permanently  with 
his  family  in  Santa  Barbara,  Cal. 

"The  maze"  is  considered  one  of  the  features  of 
Hampton  Court,  and  is  called  the  finest  in  the  world,  but 
for  size  and  for  confusing,  intricate  paths,  the  Hampton 
Court  maze  is  also  surpassed  by  a  maze  in  California — 
on  the  grounds  of  the  Hotel  del  Monte,  in  Monterey,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-six  miles  from  San  Francisco.  In 
that  one  State  (California)  there  is  almost  everything  to 
be  seen  in  the  way  of  natural  attractions  that  tourists  go 
wild  over  in  Western  Europe.  California  has  the  rivers, 
lakes  and    mountains,   the    floriculture,   fruits,    fish — 


84  HA  MP  TON  COURT  PALA  CE. 

almost  everything  in  the  water,  on  the  ground  and  in 
the  air  that  you  find  in  other  countries  of  the  explored 
world.  Its  resources  are  apparently  exhaustless,  and 
its  productions,  rich  and  marvellous. 

Probably  there  is  nothing,  however,  more  beautiful, 
in  its  way,  than  Bushey  Park,  a  tract  of  one  thousand 
acres,  but  a  step  across  the  roadway  from  Hampton 
Court.  It  contains  rows  and  rows,  miles  upon  miles,  of 
noble  chestnut  trees.  To  see  ^hese  grand  old  chestnuts 
in  May,  when  they  are  in  full  bloom,  with  their  great 
clusters  of  white  and  pink  blossoms,  is  to  see  something 
that  will  be  indelibly  photographed  on  your  memory. 
And,  yet,  come  to  think  of  it,  even  this  brilliant  scene 
is  eclipsed  again  in  that  wonderful  State,  California. 
It  is  excelled  by  the  view  you  get  of  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
on  a  branch  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  while 
riding  from  Big  Trees  to  San  Jose.  If  you  happen 
to  go  through  that  part  of  the  country  in  March,  as  I 
did,  and  see  the  orchards  of  pears,  plums  and  almonds 
in  full  bloom,  you  will  see  such  profuse  and  gorgeous 
beauty  in  color  that  it  will  indeed  be  to  you  "a  joy 
forever. " 

The  pretty  village  of  Twickenham,  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Thames,  is  a  good  long  walk  or  a  short  xide  from 
Hampton  Court,  through  pretty  country  roads  and 
shaded  lanes.  It  is  immediately  opposite  Richmond, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge. 
Twickenham  is  quiet  and  antiquated  ;  it  might  even  be 
called  dull,  but  along  the  river  near  by  are  many  beauti- 
ful villas  with  attractive  groimds.  "  Twickenham  Ait," 
or  Eel-pie  House,  on  an  island  in  the  Thames,  used  to 
be  a  favorite  resort  of  holiday  visitors  from  the  metro- 
polis. The  river  is  narrow  here  and  the  two  banks  are 
connected  by  ferryboats.  "Twickenham  Ferry"  is 
celebrated  in  song  and  story.  I  don't  know  who  wrote 
the  words,  but  there  is  a  very  sweet  and  spirited  song 
entitled  "  Twickenham  Ferry, "music by  Marzials,  which 


HAMPTON  COURT  PALACE.  85 

I  always  listen  to  with  great  pleasure,  as  sung  by  a 
lovely  New  York  girl,  who  charms  me  with  her  beauti- 
ful voice.     The  first  verse  goes  this  way  : 

"  O,  hoi,  ye-ho  !  hoi,  ye-ho  !  who's  for  the  ferry? " 
The  briar's  in  bud  and  the  sun  going  down  ; 
I'll  row  ye  so  quick,  and  I'll  row  you  so  steady  ! 
And  'tis  but  a  penny  to  Twickenham  town  ! " 
The  ferryman's  slim,  and  the  ferryman's  young. 
And  he's  just  a  soft  twang  in  the  turn  of  his  tongue. 
And  he's  fresh  as  a  pippin,  and  brown  as  a  berry. 
And  'tis  but  a  penny  to  Twickenham  town  ! 
"  O,  hoi,  ye-ho  !  hoi,  ye-ho  !  hoi,  ye-ho  !  ho  ! " 

Anybody  will  point  out  to  you  "Strawberry  Hill," 
famous  as  the  home  of  Horace  Walpole,  and  if  you  are 
a  stranger,  no  driver  will  let  you  miss,  in  Twickenham. 
"Pope's  Villa,"  an  old-fashioned  stone  house  with  a 
brownish-gray  front,  in  which  the  poet  lived  for  several 
years.  Pope,  you  know,  was  styled  ' '  The  Bard  of 
Twickenham. " 

Prior  to  removing  to  Twickenham  Alexander  Pope 
lived  with  his  parents  in  the  village  of  Binfield,  nine 
miles  from  Windsor,  and  it  was  at  Binfield  that  he 
penned  "Spring,  the  First  Pastoral."  It  opens  with 
these  lines  : 

' '  First  in  these  fields  I  try  the  sylvan  strains. 
Nor  blush  to  sport  on  Windsor's  blissful  plains  ; 
Fair  Thames,  flow  gently  from  thy  sacred  spring. 
While  on  thy  banks  Sicilian  muses  sing  ; 
Let  vernal  airs  through  trembling  osiers  play. 
And  Albion's  cliffs  resound  the  rural  lay. " 

"  Eloise  to  Abelard,"  among  other  famous  poems,  was 
penned  in  this  Twickenham  Villa,  in  1717,  when  Pope 
was  under  thirty  years  old.  In  the  same  place  he  wrote 
"To  the  Memory  of  an  Unfortunate  Lady."  There 
were  two  such  ladies,  so  we  read  in  the  life  of  Pope,  in 
whom  he  was  interested,  Mrs.  Cope  and  Mrs.  Weston, 
but  his  biographer  does  not  seem  to  be  able  to  settle  the 


86  HA  MP  TON  CO  UR  T  PA  LA  CE. 

question  as  to  which  one  of  the  two  it  was  that  inspired 
these  lines. 

"Pope's  Villa  "  is  occupied  in  summer  time,  or  it  was 
last  summer,  by  Labouchere,  whose  London  residence 
is  at  Queen's  Gate,  But  to  return  to  the  main  subject 
of  this  sketch — it  may  be  worth  telling  the  reader  that 
Hampton  Court  Palace  is  open  to  the  public  free 
throughout  the  year  except  Fridays  and  Christmas  Day. 
The  hours  on  week  days  are  fcom  : 

April  I  to  Sept.  30,  10  A.M.  to  6  p.m. 

October  i  to  March  31,  10  a.m.  to  4  P.M. 

Sundays  : — 2  p.m.  to  4  or  6  p.m. 

It  is  a  notable  fact  that  Hampton  Court  is  one  of  the 
very  few  public  places  in  or  near  London  which  are  open 
on  Sundays.  Services  in  the  Chapel  on  Sundays  at  1 1  a.  m. 
and  3.30  P.M.,  on  Wednesday  and  Fridays  at  10.30  a.m. 

The  gardens,  which  are  very  attractive  and  tastefully 
laid  out,  and  unreservedly  thrown  open  to  the  public, 
contain  several  fine  avenues  of  trees,  and  are  open  until 
8  p.m.  during  the  summer  months,  and  until  dusk  the 
remainder  of  the  year. 


LONDON  ODDITIES. 


It  serves  the  purpose  of  correspondents  as  well  as  of 
the  postal  authorities  to  add  the  postal  district  initials  in 
addressing  letters  to  London — as  for  instance,  C. ,  indi- 
cating central,  or  S.  W. ,  Southwest.  There  are  eight  of 
these  districts,  and  the  necessity  for  adding  the  initials 
will  be  seen  when  one  learns  that  in  London  there  are 
no  less  than  thirty-five  King  streets,  thirty  Queen  streets, 
eighteen  York  streets,  a  Victoria  Park  in  the  extreme 
east,  one  Queen  Victoria  street,  a  Victoria  railway  sta- 
tion in  the  Southwestern  district,  a  Hotel  Victoria  in  the 
western  central  and  a  Victoria  Hotel  in  quite  another 
district. 

The  postal  system  in  London  is  as  near  perfection  as 
it  is  possible  to  make  it.  Few  letters  go  astray,  and  the 
delivery  is  prompt,  there  being  from  six  to  twelve  de- 
liveries daily  ;  but  by  neglecting  to  add  the  initial  let- 
ter of  the  district  a  letter  may  be  delayed  several  hours. 
There  are  three  thousand  offices  and  pillar  boxes  in 
London,  but  in  addressing  letters  take  care  and  take 
into  consideration  that  there  are  nearly  six  millions  of 
people  in  London,  that  the  streets  and  squares  cover 
eight  thousand  acres,  and  within  a  radius  of  fifteen  miles 
of  Charing  Cross  seven  hundred  square  miles  are  cov- 
ered. Correspondence  between  England  and  the  United 
States  also  shows  wonderful  increase.  Ten  years  ago 
the  number  of  letters  which  annually  passed  between 
the  two  countries  was  eight  millions  ;  at  present  the 
number  is  twenty-four  millions.  Reduction  of  postage 
rates  has  of  course  had  something  to  do  with  this  great 
increase  and  it  will  bear  further  reduction. 

87 


88  LONDON  ODDITIES. 

I  happened  to  be  near  Euston  station  and  wanted  to 
go  to  my  hotel  in  Northumberland  avenue.  I  stepped 
into  a  hansom,  and  not  wishing  to  be  taken  for  a 
stranger  I  simply  said  ' '  Victoria  Hotel. "  In  five  minutes 
Mr.  Cabbie  pulled  up  in  front  of  what  seemed  to  be  a  gin 
palace,  bearing  the  sign  plain  enough,  "Victoria  Hotel." 
"  I  want  the  hotel  in  Northumberland  avenue,"  I  said  to 
the  driver.  "  Then  why  didn't  you  say  Hotel  Victoria," 
was  the  quick  response,  and  cabbie  charged  me  a  fare 
and  a  half  to  emphasize  the  distinction. 

The  growth  of  London  is'  something  marvellous. 
More  than  ten  thousand  houses  annually,  or,  it  may  be 
roughly  stated,  one  thousand  houses  every  month,  are 
added  to  London.  In  August  of  1889,  754,464  houses 
were  supplied  with  water  by  the  water  companies,  or 
11,113  below  the  number  in  the  same  month  of  1890.  In 
September,  1890,  the  companies  had  to  supply  10,976 
houses  more  than  in  September  of  1889.  In  August  of 
that  year  765,577  houses  were  supplied  with  water,  and 
in  September,  1891,  that  number  had  increased  to 
766,797. 

The  London  police  are  a  pleasant,  polite  set  of  men, 
and  if  they  do  not  refuse  the  price  of  a  pint  of  beer  for 
a  slight  service,  neither  will  they  refuse  to  answer  any 
question,  respectfully  and  satisfactorily.  The  contrast 
is  very  striking  between  these  good-tempered,  obliging 
officers,  and  the  sullen,  saucy,  sour-visaged,  tobacco- 
chewing  New  York  policeman  who  is  just  as  ready  to 
answer  with  his  club,  which  he  carries  exposed,  as  he  is 
with  his  uncivil  tongue.  London  policemen  are  paid 
from  six  to  seven  and  a  half  dollars  per  week  :  New 
York  policemen  from  sixteen  to  twenty-four  dollars 
weekly.  A  London  police  sergeant  gets  only  ten  dollars 
a  week. 

Sixpence  for  a  Play  Bill. — At  the  Prince  of  Wales 
Theatre  and  at  the  Shaftesbury  you  are  charged  six- 
pence for  a  bill  of  the  play,  and  at  the  majority  of  London 


LONDON  ODDITIES.  89 

theatres  you  pay  for  a  programme.  The  exceptions  are 
Irving's  Lyceum  and  D'Oyly  Carte's  Savoy,  where  no 
employee  is  allowed  to  accept  a  fee  of  any  kind — ^not  if 
the  manager  knows  it.  That  does  not  say,  however, 
that  a  "tip"  for  a  programme  is  unexpected,  even  at 
the  two  houses  named. 

Civility  and  Servility. — There's  a  difference  be- 
tween civility  and  servility.  You  are  pleased  to  have 
an  omnibus  conductor  audibly  ' '  thank  you  "  when  you 
hand  him  your  fare,  but  in  the  London  shops  a  sales- 
woman will  do  the  same  thing  even  when  you  make  no 
purchase.  At  the  pleasant  Nayland  Rock  Hotel  in  Mar- 
gate, on  the  south  coast  of  England,  a  waiter  will  thank 
you  for  allowing  him  to  put  a  clean  plate  before  you,  or 
when  he  hands  you  a  glass  of  water — if  you  can  get 
such  a  thing  as  water  at  your  meals  in  an  English  hotel. 
It  is  not  obtainable  without  a  little  trouble  ;  everybody 
drinks  wine. 

Soot,  Soot,  Everywhere. — Owing  to  the  use  of  soft 
coal  in  London,  white  buildings  are  soon  changed  into 
black  ones,  partially.  This  change,  especially  where 
one  side  of  a  set  of  Corinthian  columns,  for  instance, 
remains  the  original  color,  and  the  other  side  has  grad- 
ually turned  very  dark,  g^ves  some  of  the  churches  and 
public  btiildings  a  picturesque  and  pleasing  appearance. 
Yellow  brick  is  very  largely  used,  but  it  soon  changes 
color.  If  you  place  a  tumbler  of  water  outside  your 
window  at  night  with  the  idea  of  keeping  it  cool,  for 
you  rarely  see  a  piece  of  ice,  you  will  find  a  number  of 
tiny  globules  of  soot  floating  on  the  surface  of  the 
water  in  the  morning.  And  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  in 
London  to  make  weather  prognostications,  the  sun  be- 
ing usually  hidden  or  half-hidden  by  London  smoke,  if 
not  by  fog. 

Exchanging  Compliments. — Englishmen  say  "as 
drunk  as  a  Scotchman,"  and  Scotchmen  hav^e  a  saying 
"  as  durr  as  an  Englishman. "  ' '  Durr  "  implies  something 


90  LONDON  ODDITIES. 

more  than  quiet :  it  means  surly,  sullen.  It  cannot  be 
denied  that  English  tourists  are  unusually  quiet :  they 
seldom  speak  without  having  been  formally  introduced. 
That  reminds  me  that  two  or  three  years  ago  I  was 
travelling  on  the  Midland  road  from  London  to  I-iver- 
pool,  and  I  happened  to  make  some  casual  remark  to  a 
fellow  traveller  who  was  a  stranger  to  me.  The  gen- 
tleman replied  very  briefly  but  courteously,  and  then 
added  :  ' '  Beg  pardon,  you  hail  from  the  other  side,  do 
you  not?"  "  Yes,  but  why  do  you  ask?"  "If  I  didn't 
detect  it  in  your  accent,"  said  ;ny  neighbor,  "I  should 
know  it  because  you  addressed  me.  I  have  been  trav- 
elling between  London  and  Liverpool  now  for  many 
years,  and  I  am  never  spoken  to  but  by  an  American, 
and  I  rather  like  it." 

There  are  no  ' '  cross-walks, "  as  we  call  them,  in  the 
cities  of  Great  Britain  ;  none  are  needed.  Nor  does 
anybody  cross  the  street  at  right  angles,  as  we  do  in 
New  York.  Everybody  crosses  diagonally,  from  corner 
to  comer,  or  crosses  in  the  middle  of  the  block.  The 
road-ways  are  so  smooth  and  well  paved  that  all  parts 
are  alike,  and  it  is  never  necessary  to  pick  your  way. 
In  New  York,  besides  exercising  great  vigilance  to  pre- 
vent being  knocked  down  and  run  over  by  vehicles,  you 
must  always  keep  one  eye  on  the  ground  while  cross- 
ing. You  may  be  upset  by  a  car  track,  or  you  may  step 
between  two  stone  blocks  that  are  a  foot  apart,  more 
or  less. 

As  TO  Oysters. — English  oysters  still  retain  their 
flavor,  a  great  deal  of  flavor  ;  in  fact  they  have  entirely 
too  much — that  is  to  say,  too  much  for  anybody  whose 
palate  is  not  accustomed  to  the  peculiar  taste.  You  can 
get  oysters  as  low  as  a  shilling  a  dozen,  but  choice 
"  Whitstables, "  that  have  a  strong,  coppery  flavor,  come 
as  high  as  four  shillings  a  dozen.  For  the  uneducated 
American  palate,  Chesapeake  oysters,  or  the  Great 
South  Bay  blue  points  are  good  enough. 


LONDON  ODDITIES.  91 

Servants*  Wages. — Servant  girls*  wages  in  England 
are  not  nearly  so  high  as  they  are  in  the  United  States. 
Even  hotel  chambermaids,  who  are  paid  better  than 
family  servants,  only  receive  fourteen  pounds  sterling  a 
year — about  seventy  dollars,  but  each  one  is  allowed  a 
fortnight's  holiday  (with  pay)  at  the  end  of  the  summer. 
And  the  "tips"  they  receive  from  the  guests  are  well 
worth  consideration. 

There  are  differences  between  the  habits  of  London 
and  New  York  women  and  here  is  one  of  the  minor 
points  :  New  York  women  go  "  shopping,"  that  is  to  say 
they  go  into  one  store  after  another  to  examine  the 
goods,  as  a  diversion  or  pastime  ;  English  women  never 
enter  a  shop  without  the  intention  to  purchase  ;  they 
make  a  business  and  not  a  pastime  of  replenishing  their 
wardrobe.  To  go  on  a  shopping  tour  American  women 
often  wear  fine  gowns  and  rich  jewelry  ;  English  women 
on  the  contrary,  dress  very  plainly  when  engaged  in 
their  business  of  purchasing.  They  reserve  their  fine 
clothes  for  the  opera  or  for  receptions,  wearing  no  extra 
finery  even  for  ordinary  visiting.  They  are  not  seen 
parading  the  streets  in  silks  and  satins,  and  that  is  why 
some  American  writers  who  do  not  observe  closely  say 
that"  English  women  in  the  street  dress  in  dowdy  style. " 

No  "FoRELADiES"  IN  LONDON. — At  the  great  dry- 
goods  house  and  outfitting  establishment  of  Debenham 
&  Freebody,  in  Wig^ore  street,  not  far  from  the  Lang- 
ham  Hotel,  all  the  saleswomen  are  expected,  nay,  are 
obliged  to  dress  in  black.  They  number  two  hundred, 
but  not  a  "  saleslady  "  nor  a  "  forelady  "  among  them. 
They  make  derision  of  these  terms,  which  are  so  com- 
monly heard  in  New  York.  The  firm  also  employs  six 
or  seven  hundred  young  men.  All  the  unmarried  em- 
ployees live  on  the  premises,  and  this  plan  is  found  to 
operate  satisfactorily  to  all  concerned.  The  young  men 
wear  black  coats,  waistcoats  and  neckties.  Many  years 
ago  salesmen  in  London  dry  goods  houses  were  not 


92  LONDON  ODDTTIES. 

allowed  to  wear  a  moustache,  but  there  is  more  liberty 
now  and  they  can  adorn  their  faces  as  fancy  dictates. 

You  don't  hear  the  words,  corsets,  dresses  nor  pounds, 
in  London  shops  of  the  first  class,  such  as  Kate  Reily's, 
Debenham  &  Freebody's  or  Redfern's.  They  have 
gone  back  to  the  old-fashioned  term — stays,  gowns  and 
guineas.  English  merchants  favor  the  last  term  because 
a  guinea  is  worth  a  shilling  more  than  a  pound. 

Customs  in  Art  Galleries  Abroad  and  at  Home. — 
The  British  National  Gallery,  in  Trafalgar  square,  Lon- 
don, like  our  Metropolitan  Mustnim  of  Art  and  like  nearly 
all  galleries  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  is  only  open 
free  on  certain  days  of  the  week,  while  the  great  French 
collection  at  the  Louvre,  in  Paris  (probably  the  largest 
and  most  valuable  collection  of  pictures  under  one  roof) 
is  always  free,  and  may  be  visited  without  application 
to  any  circumlocution  office.  The  Louvre  is  open  six 
days  of  every  week  in  the  year  ;  only  on  Mondays  are 
the  public  not  admitted,  the  officers  reserving  Monday 
for  repairs  and  cleaning.  In  nearly  all  of  the  public 
galleries  of  Europe,  as  in  the  Corcoran  gallery  in  Wash- 
ington, you  are  obliged  to  leave  your  umbrella  or  walk- 
ing stick  in  charge  of  an  official  at  the  door  and  for  the 
care  of  such  an  article  a  fee  is  charged  in  some  places  ; 
at  the  Louvre  you  may  carry  into  the  galleries  as  many 
umbrellas  and  bundles  as  you  please.  This  is  not  al- 
ways an  advantage:  for  my  part  I  am  only  too  glad  to 
be  relieved  of  my  umbrella  and  overcoat  on  such 
occasions.  It  seems  strange  that  men  while  viewing 
pictures  in  the  foreign  galleries  should  persist  in  wear- 
ing their  hats — it. seems  strange  to  a  New  Yorker  ;  the 
custom  being  so  different  at  our  Academy  of  Design. 

Police  Uniform. — The  New  York  police  are  fine- 
looking  and  their  uniform  is  handsome — handsomer  and 
probably  better  fitted  for  the  purpose  than  the  police 
uniform  adopted  in  any  other  country.  The  London 
police  look  odd  in  their  helmets  and  their  coats,  which 


LONDON  ODDITIES.  98 

are  too  short  in  the  skirt.  Instead  of  rubber  coats  they 
wear  a  cape  in  inclement  weather,  which  only  protects 
the  shoulders.  But  if  the  London  police  look  clumsy 
and  awkward  what  can  be  said  of  the  Paris  police? 
Simply  that  they  look  silly.  With  their  military  cap 
and  sword  they  resemble  soldiers,  somewhat.  In  sum- 
mer they  wear  linen  trousers  which  are  cut  very  loose, 
and  instead  of  allowing  freedom  of  movement,  this 
waste  of  material  seems  to  retard  their  progress.  It 
is  a  funny  sight  to  see  one  of  these  gendarmes  running 
at  full  speed  (his  full  speed)  after  a  flying  malefactor. 
Their  side-arms,  capes  and  baggy  trousers  are  very 
much  in  the  way. 

The  New  York  police  act  like  brutes  at  times,  but 
they  are  at  least  a  fine-looking  body  of  men,  and  in 
times  of  public  emergency  it  must  be  admitted  they 
show  courage  and  perform  good  service. 

When  men  at  London  places  of  amusement  remove 
their  hats,  they  seem  to  do  it  reluctantly.  They  will 
enter  a  theatre  and  enter  a  box,  remove  their  overcoat 
and  gloves,  take  out  opera  glass,  and  spread  the  pla}"- 
bill  before  them,  and  then,  as  a  last  thought,  if  they 
think  about  it  at  all,  the  hat  will  be  slowly  removed ; 
they  seem  to  be  unwilling  to  part  with  it.  How  different 
in  American  theatres,  where  every  man  quickly  doffs 
his  hat  the  moment  he  enters  the  door  of  the  audito- 
rium. It  is  all  the  more  noticeable  in  London  theatres 
because  the  women  are  obliged  to  remove  their  hats  be- 
fore entering,  and  excepting  at  the  Lyceum,  the  Savoy, 
and  possibly  one  or  two  other  houses,  they  are  obliged 
to  pay  for  their  care. 

In  France  you  see  a  great  number  of  young,  and  some 
very  old  women  working  in  the  streets  and  in  the  fields  ; 
in  Germany  women  shovel  and  put  in  coal ;  in  Paris 
they  go  into  harness  and  draw  hand-carts  and  barrows  ; 
in  Switzerland  they  drag  small  carts  harnessed  along- 
side of  dogs.     You  will  often  see  a  dog  and  a  woman 


94  LONDON  ODDITIES. 

harnessed  to  a  fruit  or  milk  wagon.  In  England  they 
go  into  barrooms  and  stand  up  with  men  and  drink— 
and  get  drunk. 

Kew  Gardens. — Kew  is  not  only  the  most  popular  and 
favorite  resort  of  the  London  holiday  maker,  but  a  place 
unique  among  public  institutions  of  its  kind  and  of 
special  value  to  the  horticulturist  and  the  botanist. 
Eighty  thousand  visitors  have  passed  its  gates  in  one 
day.  The  gardens  are  open  free  on  week-days  from 
noon  (bank  holidays  lo  A.  M.),  and  on  Sundays  from  i 
P.  M.  until  sunset.  The  gardens  and  houses  form  part 
of  the  grounds  attached  to  the  Royal  Palace,  a  favorite 
residence  of  George  III.  The  Palm  House,  said  to  be 
the  largest  glass  building  in  the  world,  except  the 
Crystal  Palace,  contains  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
tropical  palms  and  plants,  ferns,  fern  trees  and  cacti, 
while  in  the  other  tropical  houses  there  is  a  splendid 
collection  of  orchids,  and  other  treasures  of  southern 
climates,  including  the  gigantic  ' '  Victoria  Regia  "  lily. 
The  gardens  contain  an  endless  profusion  of  trees, 
shrubs,  flowers  and  ferns  of  temperate  regions,  and 
flora  of  almost  every  land  and  clime.  The  names  and 
descriptions  will  be  found  in  most  cases  attached  to  the 
various  specimens.  The  museums  contain  many  valu- 
able specimens,  and  much  to  amuse,  interest  and  in- 
struct, while  the  contiguity  of  the  River  Thames,  with 
the  view  of  Brentford  and  Isleworth,  makes  a  trip  to 
the  Gardens  a  delightful  day's  outing.  Trains  run 
direct  every  half-hour  from  all  parts  of  the  District 
Railway  and  its  connections  to  Kew  Gardens  station. 
The  journey  may  be  varied  in  the  summer  by  travel- 
ling to  Putney  Bridge  station,  and  thence  by  steamboat 
from  adjoining  pier  to  Kew  Bridge. 

Richmond. — You  can  drive  to  Richmond  on  the 
Thames  by  cab  or  carriage,  but  a  quick  and  cheap  way 
is  by  train.  There  is  a  half-hourly  service  of  trains 
connecting  Richmond  with  all  parts  of  the  District  Rail- 


LONDON  ODDITIES.  95 

way  and  its  connections,  and  through  rail  tickets  are 
issued  at  cheap  fares  from  all  stations.  A  steamboat 
runs  daily  in  the  summer  months  from  Putney  Bridge 
pier  at  1 1. 15  A.M.,  and  through  tickets  by  rail  and  boat, 
via  Putney  Bridge  station,  can  be  obtained  at  all  Dis- 
trict Railway  stations.  The  attractions  of  Richmond 
are  :  Richmond  Park,  nearly  equal  in  area  to  the  whole 
of  the  London  Parks,  containing  ornamental  waters  and 
herds  of  deer.  The  view  of  the  river  and  valley  of  the 
Thames  from  Richmond  Hill  and  Terrace,  described  by 
Sir  Walter  Scott  as  "an  unrivalled  landscape,"  is  now 
rendered  more  delightful  by  the  recently  thrown  open 
grounds  of  Buccleuch  Park.  The  River  Thames  for  all 
boating  trips.  Distance  up  the  river  to  Teddington 
Lock  three  miles  ;  to  Kingston  Bridge  five  miles  ;  down 
to  Kew  Bridge  three  miles, 

Windsor  Castle  and  Windsor  Park, — One  of  Her 
Majesty's  residences  ;  twenty-one  miles  from  London — 
forty-five  minutes  from  Paddington  station.  The  at- 
tractions of  Windsor  are  great.  The  Round  Tower, 
from  the  top  of  which  a  splendid  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country  may  be  had,  is  open  to  the  public  daily, 
except  Sunday  ;  from  11  to  3  in  winter  and  1 1  to  4  in 
summer,  St,  George's  Chapel  may  be  viewed  any  day 
except  Wednesday,  between  12.30  and  4  p.m.  The  Al- 
bert Chapel  is  open  every  Wednesday,  Thursday,  Fri- 
day and  Saturday  from  1 2  noon  to  3  p.  m.  The  State 
Apartments,  during  the  absence  of  the  Court,  are  open 
to  the  public  daily  (except  Wednesday).  Tickets,  ob- 
tainable at  the  Lord  Chamberlain's  Stores,  Winchester 
Tower,  Castle  Yard,  Windsor,  on  presentation  of  your 
card  or  name.  The  Private  Apartments  can  be  \newed 
only  by  special  order— rarely  granted — of  the  Lord 
Chamberlain.  One  may  revel  to  his  heart's  delight  in  the 
green  luxury  and  unsurpassed  beauties  of  nature  in  the 
Home  and  Great  Parks  ;  while  a  stroll  through  the  Long 
Walk,  the  longest  avenue  of  trees  in  the  kingdom,  to  the 


96  LONDON  ODDITIES. 

picturesque  ruins  and  beautiful  scenery  of  Virginia 
Water  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  princely  residence  and 
the  lovely  country  which  surrounds  it.  Eton  College  is 
within  easy  walk  of  Windsor  Castle. 

You  hear  a  great  deal  about  Charing  Cross  in  Lon- 
don, but  you  may  look  in  vain  for  a  street  sign  bearing 
that  name.  Very  few  people  in  London  know  exactly 
where  it  is,  nor  does  even  the  policeman  on  the  "  beat  " 
know.  Strange  to  say,  neither  the  Charing  Cross  Hos- 
pital, the  Charing  Cross  Station,  nor  the  Charing  Cross 
Hotel  is  in  Charing  Cross,  ^uch  as  it  is  talked  about, 
it  is  a  very  short  street,  extending  easterly  only  from 
Cockspur  street,  then  southerly,  past  the  equestrian 
statue  of  Charles  L  to  Scotland  Yard  or  Whitehall. 
Low's  Exchange  is  in  Charing  Cross,  and  within  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  of  that  house  (No.  57),  is  the  very  cen- 
tre of  the  city  of  London.  From  this  spot  cab  fares  are 
reckoned.  Start  from  here  and  you  can  ride  anywhere, 
within  a  radius  of  two  miles,  for  one  shilling.  Low's  Ex- 
change, by  the  way,  is  a  very  popular  rendezvous  in  Lon- 
don for  Americans.  It  is  where  they  "most  congre- 
gate," and  it  offers  many  conveniences  for  travellers. 


POVERTY  AND  CHARITY  IN  ENGLAND. 


The  drinking  habit  among  men  and  among  women 
and  girls  still  remains  the  curse  of  Great  Britain,  and  its 
companion,  poverty,  is  everywhere.  But  if  the  poverty 
is  striking  and  awful  to  behold,  its  next-door  neighbor, 
charity,  God  be  praised,  aims  to  keep  pace  with  it.  Hos- 
pitals and  other  philanthropic  institutions  supported  by 
voluntary  contributions,  are  to  be  seen  almost  wherever 
the  eye  turns  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

The  patriotic  and  other  public  funds,  to  meet  special 
emergencies  at  home  and  abroad,  may  well  challenge 
the  world's  admiration,  not  only  for  the  princely  amounts 
subscribed,  but  also  for  the  hearty  and  expeditious  way 
in  which  the  funds  are  raised.  The  charitable  institu- 
tions of  the  city  of  London  number  upwards  of  one 
thousand,  and  simply  of  asylums  for  the  aged  (colleges, 
hospitals  and  almshouses),  there  are  one  hundred  and 
twenty  distinct  institutions. 

But  to  return  to  the  drinking  habit,  which  presents 
itself  before  you  constantly:  I  was  riding  up  to  London 
from  Margate  with  a  hotel-keeper,  at  whose  house,  on  the 
edge  of  the  surf,  I  had  been  staying  for  a  week,  and  I 
remarked  that  the  drinking  water  at  Margate  was  of 
good  quality.  "  Is  it  ?  "  said  Mr,  Knaggs,  for  this  is  the 
name  of  the  agreeable  gentleman  who  presided  for 
three  years  over  the  destinies  of  the  Nay  land  Roclc 
Hotel.  "  Is  it  ?  "  said  mine  host.  "  Well,  you  know  more 
about  it  than  I  do,  for  I've  never  tasted  it." 

On  Sunday,  while  at  dinner  at  Philp's  Cockbum  Hotel, 
Edinburgh,  just  before  dessert  was  served,  a  small  box 
was  passed  around  the  table  by  a  waiter  and  into  it 

97 


9»     POVERTY  AxWD  CHAR  J  TV  IN  ENGLAND. 

people  were  dropping  sixpences,  shillings  and  pieces  of 
higher  denomination.  At  once  it  occurred  to  me,  here's 
another  overcharge  or  extra  I  had  not  counted  on,  and  I 
began  inwardly  to  rebel.  "  What's  this  for  ?  "  I  blurted 
out  in  a  rather  injured  tone.  "  Collection  for  the  Orphan 
School,  sir, "  and  I  gladly  added  my  mite.  Afterwards  I 
saw  money  boxes  in  hotels  and  restaurants  in  other  parts 
of  Scotland  and  in  England  labelled,  for  example,  "  For 
Charing  Cross  Hospital ;  funds  urgently  needed, "  etc. 
Little  boys  and  young  womerh  go  about  the  busy  and 
better  parts  of  London  on  Sundays  with  boxes  in  their 
hands,  begging  you  to  "  drop  a  penny  in  "  for  this  charity 
or  that — and  you  find  it  very  hard,  indeed,  in  London  to 
keep  any  coppers  in  your  pocket,  so  strong  are  the  ap- 
peals. On  hospital  days  the  number  of  hospital  boxes  is 
largely  increased  temporarily.  At  this  time  sheets  are 
spread  in  churchyards,  into  which  people  throw  their 
spare  change  liberally. 

"The  People's  Palace,"  which  was  opened  by  the 
Queen  in  jubilee  year,  is  a  noble  illustration  of  the  char- 
itable English  heart.  The  "People's  Palace  "  is  situated 
in  one  of  the  poorer  quarters  of  London,  and,  as  every- 
body knows,  is  the  realization  of  an  ideal  conception  of 
Walter  Besantin  his  novel,  "All  Sorts  and  Conditions  of 
Men."  The  palace  includes  a  well-stocked  library;  a 
reading-room,  supplied  with  papers  from  all  parts  of  the 
world  ;  a  large  swimming  bath  and  a  hall  for  musical 
and  literary  entertainments.  In  the  basement  of  one  of 
the  main  buildings  boys  are  taught  trades  by  which  they 
may  earn  their  living.  That  the  recipients  of  all  this 
good  may  not  feel  that  they  are  objects  of  cold  charity, 
a  slight  charge  per  month  is  made  for  those  who  use  the 
reading-room,  library,  swimming  bath,  etc.,  and  there 
is  a  nominal  charge,  about  four  cents  each  person, 
for  admission  to  the  concerts  and  lectures,  which 
are  given  gratuitously  by  musicians  and  lecturers  of 
celebrity. 


PO  VERTY  AND  CHARITY  IN  ENGLAND.    99 

I  visited  that  part  of  the  Whitechapel  neighborhood 
which  "Jack  the  Ripper"  made  infamous  as  the  scene 
of  his  murders.  It  was  a  vile  place  three  years  ago,  but 
the  scene  has  been  changed  as  if  by  a  fairy  hand.  The 
Baroness  Rothschild  opened  wide  her  heart  and  purse 
and  erected  here,  for  the  poor  of  this  unfortunate  quar- 
ter, blocks  of  modern  model  tenements.  These  she  lets 
at  very  low  rents,  asking  only  three  per  cent,  return  for 
her  investment.  In  connection  with  the  tenements  the 
noble  woman  has  built  a  well-appointed  "Club  and 
Library,"  with  billiard-room,  etc.,  for  the  amusement  of 
her  tenants.  These  premises  are  in  charge  of  a  custodian 
and  his  wife,  who  are  paid  for  their  services  by  the 
Baroness  ;  and  for  the  use  of  the  "  Club  and  Library  " 
a  merely  nominal  charge  is  made  to  any  of  the  tenants 
who  avail  themselves  of  the  privilege.  It  is  not  sectar- 
ian. In  England  they  believe  in  "Faith,  Hope  and 
Charity,"  and  of  these  three  that  "the  greatest  is 
Charity." 


MARGATE, 

AN  ENGLISH  WATERING  PLACE. 


I  was  ill  in  London,  at  the  Windsor  Hotel  in  the  sum- 
ttier  of  1 89P,  and  as  my  friend  Dr.  Walter  M.  Fleming  of 
New  York  happened  to  be  in  London  at  the  time,  at  the 
Savoy  Hotel,  I  sent  for  him.  The  fact  is  that  I  had 
been  receiving  too  much  "attention"  from  my  friends 
— dinners,  drives,  concerts,  theatres,  suppers,  etc.,  all  of 
which  resulted  in  physical  and  nervous  exhaustion. 

Dr.  Fleming's  prescription  was  simple — "rest  and  a 
change  of  air,"  but  as  this  was  Dr.  Fleming's  first  visit 
to  England,  I  began  to  question  my  friends  and  others 
as  to  the  best  pharmacy  at  which  to  have  the  prescrip- 
tion filled.  The  proprietor  of  the  Windsor  Hotel,  Mr.  J. 
R.  Cleave,  said  "Margate  ;  "  so,  too,  said  the  intelligent 
manager  of  the  house,  Mr.  Mann.  An  old  and  trusted 
friend  wrote  me,  "  Don't  go  to  Margate,  go  to  Brighton 
or  to  Hastings."  Thus  opinions  differed.  I  knew  all 
about  Brighton  and  wanted  to  see  a  place  new  to  me. 
I  was  much  inclined  to  go  to  Hastings,  but  a  concen- 
sus of  opinion  prevailed  in  favor  of  Margate. 

"  There's  a  beautiful  air  at  Margate,"  is  the  response 
of  everyone  in  England  to  whom  you  speak  of  that 
place,  from  the  boys  at  Low's  exchange  in  Charing 
Cross  to  Mr.  R.  Whiteing,  a  writer  on  the  London  Daily 
News.  This  remark  was  also  made  to  me  by  Major 
Arthur  Griffiths,  an  English  author  and  litterateur,  who 
is  known  and  esteemed  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic. 
So  to  Margate  I  went. 

Margate  is  on  the  south  coast  of  England,  seventy-five 
miles  from  London,  whence  it  is  reached  by  the  London, 

100 


MARGATE.  101 

Chatham  and  Dover  Railway.  This  is  the  road  celebrated 
for  the  beautiful  rural  scenery  that  borders  it ;  it  passes 
through  the  prettiest  parts  of  Kent,  "the  garden  of 
England,"  through  Rochester  and  Canterbury,  famous 
for  their  cathedrals,  and  other  places  of  historic  and 
scenic  interest.  You  may  also  reach  Margate  by  steamer 
from  London  Bridge.  It  is  a  pleasant  sail  on  the  Thames 
of  ninety-three  miles. 

Having  arrived  at  Margate,  you  can  make  it  the 
starting  point  for  many  a  delightful  excursion.  Boul- 
ogne on  the  French  coast,  for  instance,  across  the  chan- 
nel, is  directly  opposite  Margate  ;  steamer  fare  round 
trip,  six  shillings — a  dollar  and  a  half. 

Other  pleasant  excursions  are  made  to  Canterbury 
and  to  Ramsgate.  To  these  places  run  ' '  pleasure  vans  " 
accommodating  twenty  persons  and  the  fare  ranges 
from  threepence  to  a  shilling,  according  to  the  style  of 
vehicle.  If  you  do  not  care  to  patronize  the  pleasure 
vans,  you  may  hire  a  victoria  at  two  shillings  per  hour. 
Canterbury  is  the  site  of  the  famous  cathedral.  At 
Ramsgate  lived  the  Jewish  philanthropist,  Sir  Moses 
Montefiore,  for  nearly  the  length  of  his  long  and  useful 
life — one  hundred  years. 

Another  interesting  excursion  is  to  the  old-fashioned 
village  of  Broadstairs,  for  many  years  the  home  of 
Charles  Dickens.  The  house  Dickens  occupied  and 
which  he  called  "  Bleak  House,"  still  stands  on  its  com- 
manding site  at  the  top  of  the  cliffs  directly  overlooking 
the  sea.  A  description  of  Bleak  House,  with  illustra- 
tion, appeared  in  the  Home  Journal  in  January,  1891, 
and  has  been  widely  copied  in  this  country  as  well  as  in 
England.  Broadstairs  is  only  a  five-mile  drive  from 
Margate,  fare  by  victoria  four  shillings. 

Few  Americans  who  cross  the  ocean  go  to  Margate, 
but  they  may  spend  a  couple  of  days  or  a  couple  of 
weeks  there  with  advantage.  Margate  is  a  town  with  a 
history.     Its  foremost  historical  feature  is  the  Church  of 


102  MARGATE. 

St  John,  built  in  1050.  It  has  seen  the  rise  of  Norman, 
Plantagenet  and  Tudor  dynasties  and  still  stands,  the 
oldest  of  England's  possessions.  In  the  time  of  Queen 
Anne,  according  to  the  chronicler,  to  be  buried  in  a 
sheet  cost  sixpence,  and  a  shilling  was  the  extravagant 
price  of  a  coffin,  but  the  honor  of  being  buried  from  St. 
John's  Church  cost  two  shillings  more!  Marriage  banns 
were  to  be  had  at  St.  John's  for  three-and-six. 

Modern  Margate  is  one  of  England's  most  popular 
watering-places.  There  are  n\any  pleasant  walks  and 
some  fine  buildings.  One  of  the  pleasure  resorts  is  the 
ocean  pier.  Here,  three  times  a  week,  a  large  band  of 
picked  musicians  perform  a  good  programme  giving  a 
promenade  concert  directly  over  the  breakers. 

It  is  the  boast  of  the  Britisher  that  his  government 
is  "parental;"  it  not  only  assumes  to  take  charge  of  the 
individual,  but  it  does  in  many  particulars  compel  him 
to  take  care  of  himself.  If,  for  instance,  you  are  caught 
boarding  or  leaving  a  moving  train  you  are  fined  "  forty 
shillings  "  (ten  dollars) — a  favorite  sum  for  a  fine,  by  the 
way,  is  that  same  forty  shillings. 

The  pier  at  Margate  would  seem  to  be  an  exception 
to  the  rule  of  safety  ;  it  cannot  be  called  absolutely  safe 
at  night.  The  boat  landing  below  is  reached  by  several 
flights  of  wide  stairs,  and  the  lowest  flight  is  open  and 
unguarded,  not  only  in  daytime  but  also  at  night.  In  ad- 
dition to  this  the  lower  part  of  the  pier  is  not  lighted  at 
all,  and  it  would  be  the  easiest  thing  in  the  world  on  a 
dark  night  to  Avalk  off  by  accident  into  the  water.  Why 
more  accidents  and  loss  of  life  do  not  occur  is  surpris- 
ing. Twopence  admits  you  to  the  pier,  and  it  is  a 
popular  democratic  resort. 

At  night  the  scene  near  the  pier  is  a  lively  one.  Street 
restaurateurs,  their  barrows  ablaze  with  flambeaux,  line 
the  highway  and  drive  quite  a  business  selling  plates  of 
oysters,  mussels,  cockles  and  snails,  which  are  more  or 
less  tempting. 


103 


104  MARGATE. 

If  you  are  fond  of  sea  bathing  by  all  means  go  to 
Margate.  There  is  no  high-rolling  surf,  but  if  you  are  a 
swimmer  you  will  be  all  the  better  pleased.  There  are 
no  ropes  to  lay  hold  of,  none  are  necessary  ;  you  bathe 
in  perfect  safety  and  comfort,  and,  as  at  all  English 
resorts,  you  bathe  from  a  "  machine." 

In  America  bathing  facilities  consist  of  long  rows  of 
commodious  wooden  boxes  placed  on  the  beach  at  some 
distance  from  the  surf.  You  purchase  a  bathing  ticket 
for  twenty-five  or  fifty  cents,  the  price  depending  on 
whether  you  prefer  a  woolen  ta'a  cotton  costume.  You 
receive  the  suit  and  the  key  of  your  box.  Then  you 
put  your  valuables  in  an  envelope  sealed  by  yourself 
and  hand  them  to  the  custodian,  who  places  them  in  a 
separate  box  in  an  enormous  safe,  returning  you  a  check 
tied  to  a  rubber  band,  which  latter  you  pass  over  your 
head  and  wear  while  bathing.  You  proceed  to  your 
"  house,"  as  we  call  it,  disrobe  and  don  your  scant  suit, 
lock  your  door  and  walk  out  and  down  to  the  edge  of 
the  water,  where,  as  fancy  dictates,  you  loll  around  on 
the  beach,  talking  to  your  friends,  or  you  plunge  im- 
mediately into  the  breakers  only  to  come  out,  dry  your- 
self in  the  sun,  cut  up  capers  on  the  sand,  chat  or 
smoke,  repeating  the  process  ad  libitum.  Of  course  men 
and  women  bathe  together. 

Not  so  in  England.  There  you  bathe  from  ' '  machines, " 
small  wooden  houses,  five  feet  square  by  ten  feet  high, 
mounted  on  four  wheels.  They  have  entrances  back  and 
front,  each  approached  by  a  low  flight  of  steps.  You 
enter  by  one  door  in  street  costume,  and  having  dis- 
robed and  donned  your  bathing  garments,  you  g^ve  the 
signal,  a  horse  is  attached  to  the  "machine  "  which  is 
drawn  a  short  distance  into  the  water.  You  step  down 
and  out,  disport  yourself  in  the  water  as  long  as  you 
please  and  reenter  your  box,  to  emerge  therefrom  once 
more  in  everyday  habiliments.  No  lolling  about  the 
beach,  no  unseemly  display  of  person  ;  all  is  conduct- 


MARGATE.  105 

ed  in  a  proper,  staid  and  exemplary  manner — on  the 
beach. 

And  in  sooth,  why  should  you  walk  around  and  smoke 
and  chat  with  your  friends  on  this  occasion,  in  a  cos- 
tume, or  lack  of  costume,  which  if  worn  at  ether  times 
or  places  would  land  you  in  jail  for  exposure  of  per- 
son? This  with  reference  to  the  American  custom  or 
costume. 

In  England  it  is  worse  in  some  respects,  for  while  the 
women  dress  as  they  do  here,  the  men  bathe  in  a  nude 
state,  so  to  speak.  They  wear  small  trunks  or  loin  cloths 
only,  and  men  and  women  bathe  together  indiscrimin- 
ately. Notices  are  posted  in  prominent  places  near  the 
beach,  boldly  printed  and  bearing  the  English  coat  of 
arms,  to  the  effect  that  in  the  water  men  and  women 
must  remain  separate,  and  further  that  you  will  be  fined 
forty  shillings  (of  course  forty  shillings)  if  you  are  found 
nearer  to  a  female  than  one  hundred  yards  ;  but  it  is  a 
dead  letter  law,  and  is  entirely  disregarded.  I  am  not 
the  most  prudish  man  in  the  world,  but  I  confess  to  hav- 
ing been  shocked.  Trunks  did  not  suit  me  ;  I  preferred 
and  obtained  a  bathing  costume  which  is  to  be  had  upon 
special  application. 

The  beach  is  hard  and  smooth,  broad  and  gently 
sloping.  The  bluff  at  Long  Branch  is  not  to  be  men- 
tioned, scarcely,  with  the  bold,  beautiful  white  chalk 
cliffs  that  rise  abruptly  and  picturesquely  from  the  beach 
at  Margate  to  a  height  of  seventy-five  feet.  Along  this 
bluff  are  miles  of  grassy,  serpentine  walks,  gardens 
prettily  laid  out,  dotted  with  summer  houses  and 
bounded  by  hedges  and  clover  fields — a  beautiful,  na- 
tural landscape,  artificially  enhanced. 

The  favorite  bathing  place  on  the  beach  is  managed 
by  Charlotte  Pettman.  It  is  reached  by  a  "coast 
gruard "  cutting  in  the  cliff,  an  inclined  passageway 
sloping  from  the  road  to  the  beach  under  the  bridge.  It 
is  a  sort  of  artificial  cation.     Bathers  are  charged  six- 


106  MARGA  TE. 

pence  each.  "  six  baths  for  two-and-six,  twelve  for  four- 
and-six." 

Mrs.  Pettman  advertises  her  baths  by  a  circular  which 
contains  the  following  touching  verse,  no  doubt  assist- 
ing trade  materially. 

"I  pitied  the  dove,  for  my  bosom  was  tender, 
I  pitied  the  sigh  that  she  gave  to  the  wind  ; 
But  I  ne'er  shall  forget  the  superlative  splendor 
Of  Charlotte's  sea  baths,  the  pride  of  mankind." 

In  his  early  days  of  struggle  the  great  Charles  Dick- 
ens, for  a  few  shillings,  penned  these  lines  as  a  "puff" 
of  Day  &  Martin's  blacking. 

So  far  as  the  waves  are  concerned,  the  cliff  is  as  solid 
as  it  appears  to  be,  but  it  has  yielded  to  the  hand  of 
man,  and  at  Charlotte  Pettman 's  baths  there  is  a  statue 
sculptured  in  the  cliff,  entitled  "  My  first  plunge."  It  is 
the  life-size  figure  of  a  young  and  beautiful  girl  in  bath- 
ing costume,  just  about  to  take  "a  header"  from  the 
platform.  It  is  by  Priestman,  an  English  artist.  The 
door  is  opened  to  art  lovers  for  twopence  each,  or  as 
much  more  as  the  generously  disposed  may  be  inclined 
to  give,  the  proceeds  being  handed  over  to  a  local 
hospital. 

One  of  Margate's  architectural  features,  as  seen  in 
the  accompanying  illustration,  is  its  handsome  clock- 
tower,  standing  in  a  conspicuous  position  on  the  Marine 
drive.  It  was  erected  in  honor  of  the  Queen's  Jubilee 
in  1887,  and  has  a  musical  chime  of  bells. 

Like  Brighton  and  some  other  seaside  resorts,  Mar- 
gate is  democratic  in  the  height  of  sumrner,  but  select 
in  the  autumn.  In  olden  times  the  season  commenced 
in  June  and  continued  until  October.  Margate  offers 
every  inducement  to  a  prolonged  season.  While  Lon- 
don is  miserable  under  November  fogs  and  humid 
atmosphere,  Margate  is  brilliant  with  glorious  days 
and  bright  skies :  fine  weather  from  August  until 
Christmas. 


MARGATE.  107 

Americans,  of  coarse,  must  flock  to  the  largest  hotel. 
They  like  size,  and  many  of  them  patronize  the  Clifton- 
ville  Hotel,  which,  to  be  sure,  is  a  large  establishment 
in  the  most  fashionable,  and  certainly  the  most  attrac- 
tive part  of  the  town,  near  the  grand  cliffs,  and  over- 
looking the  sea — a  splendid  site  and  a  beautiful  house 
exteriorly,  but  not  as  well  kept  as  an  Amerian  host 
might  care  for  it. 

The  White  Hart  Hotel,  on  the  principal  street,  is  a 
commercial  house,  and  has  a  comfortable  appearance 
from  the  outside,  but  the  Nayland  Rock  Hotel,  not  far 
from  the  two  railway  stations,  yet  overlooking  the  sea, 
and  from  the  windows  of  which  you  may  toss  a  biscuit 
into  the  water  (provided  you  have  the  biscuit),  is  to  my 
knowledge  a  well-appointed  hotel,  with  bedrooms  as 
clean  and  comfortable  and  dining-room  as  cheerful  as 
any  hotel  in  the  world.  The  cuisine  is  of  the  best.  If 
great  variety  be  absent,  quality  is  present.  The  food  is 
choice,  and  served  in  a  neat,  tempting  and  scrupulously 
clean  manner. 

European  hotels,  as  a  rule,  are  kept  on  the  European 
plan  ;  at  the  Nayland  Rock  you  have  your  choice.  If 
you  choose  the  American  plan,  the  terms  are  very  low 
for  the  accommodation  afforded.  Two  dollars  and  a 
half  a  day  secures  you  pleasant  room,  three  good  meals, 
lights  and  service.  There  are  no  extras.  The  wines 
are  of  first  quality. 

But  I  almost  forgot  an  important  item.  I  went  to 
Margate  for  health  and  rest ;  I  found  both  there.  After 
one  week  I  returned  to  London  "  like  a  lion  refreshed," 
and  I  shall  always  say,  as  everybody  in  London  says, 
"there's  a  beautiful  air  at  Margate." 


TWO  BRIGHTON  HOTELS. 


The  company  that  owns  the  Grand  Hotel  and  the 
Metropole  in  London,  opened  in  March,  1890,  a  magnifi- 
cent house  at  Brighton,  on  the  EngHsh  southern  sea 
coast.  "  Magnificent  "  is  the  word.  It  is  built  of  stone ; 
it  faces  the  sea  ;  it  has  an  acre  or  two  at  the  back  laid 
out  in  gardens,  tennis  courts,  and  pretty  walks,  after 
the  style  of  the  United  States  Hotel  at  Saratoga  ;  there 
is  a  separate  building  on  the  grounds  for  a  ball-room,  in 
this  respect  resembling  the  Grand  Union  Hotel  at  the 
same  American  spa  ;  the  elegant  drawing-room  on  the 
ground  floor  looks  on  the  King's  Road  and  the  ocean  ; 
the  library,  which  faces  the  garden,  contains  a  large 
and  choice  selection  of  books  by  leading  authors,  and  in 
the  basement  there  are  Turkish  and  Russian  baths  fitted 
up  with  a  luxury  and  perfection  of  appointment  not 
equalled  in  any  other  hotel.  The  proprietors  have 
availed  themselves  of  all  the  latest  ideas  in  the  construc- 
tion and  fitrnishing  of  hotels,  and  nothing  that  money 
can  supply,  or  good  taste  can  suggest,  has  been  left  un- 
done to  make  the  Metropole  at  Brighton  what  it  is— 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  luxurious  hotels  in  the 
world.  It  IS  said  to  accommodate  six  hundred  guests 
and  to  have  cost  ^480,000. 

Besides  this  hotel,  and  the  Grand  and  Metropole 
hotels  in  London,  the  same  company  owns  another 
hotel  in  London,  "The  First  Avenue,"  in  Holbom  ; 
also  the  Burlington  at  Eastbourne;  the  Royal  Pier 
Hotel  at  Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight ;  the  Metropole  at  Monte 
Carlo  ;  and  the  Metropole  at  Cannes — all  of  them  luxu- 
rious establishments. 

108 


TIVO  BRIGHTON  HOTELS.  109 

Brighton  attracts  visitors  the  year  round  ;  in  fact  it  is 
a  city  of  no  mean  size,  having  a  permanent  population 
numbering  an  eighth  of  a  million.  It  enjoys  two  sea- 
sons— one  for  the  hoi  polloi,  which  begins  in  June  and 
lasts  three  months,  and  another  for  the  fashionable 
world,  which  begins  in  September  and  continues  till 
near  Christmas.  During  the  second  season  the  prices 
at  Brighton  are  greatly  increased. 

I  entered  one  of  the  leading  hotels  one  day  about 
limch  time,  and  as  is  my  custom  before  engaging  rooms 
or  partaking  of  a  meal  at  an  English  hotel,  I  asked : 
"What  is  the  charge  for  a  table  d'hote  lunch  here?" 
"  Two-and-six, "  replied  the  porter.  As  for  seeing  the 
lessee  or  manager  of  an  English  hotel,  you  can  almost 
as  easily  secure  an  audience  \\-ith  the  czar  of  all  the 
Russias. 

But  to  return  to  my  muttons — or  to  the  lunch,  which, 
truth  to  tell,  was  good  in  quality  and  nicely  served. 
My  daughter  heard  the  follo\ving  conversation  between 
the  head  waiter  and  the  said  porter  as  we  were  passing 
in  to  the  ''coffee-room"  Quoth  the  former: — "How 
much  did  you  tell  these  people  for  lunch  ?  "  "  Two-and- 
six,"  replied  that  blue-coated,  gold-embroidered  official. 
"  That's  wrong,"  remarked  the  head  waiter,  who  almost 
lost  his  head  as  well  as  his  temper.  ' '  Three  shillings  is 
the  price  to  strangers,"  and  three  shillings  each  we  had 
to  pay. 

This  reminds  me  of  the  old  story  of  the  Englishman 
who  was  heard  to  remark  about  a  man  passing,  who 
had  a  foreign  look  :  "  'Ere'sa  stranger,  Bill,  'eave  'arf  a 
brick  at  *im." 

That  they  call  these  dining  rooms  in  English  hotels 
"  Coffee  Rooms,"  when  they  never  serve  in  them  a  cup 
of  coffee  after  dinner  without  a  separate  and  extra 
charge,  is  rather  exasperating. 

The  porters  and  officials  at  some  English  hotels  are 
not,  though  it  appears  as  if  they  were,  in  league  with 


110 


TIVO  BRIGHTON  HOTELS. 


the  cabmen.  If  you  ask  them  about  rates  just  before 
taking  a  drive  they  will  occasionally  mislead  you  and 
name  a  higher  rate  than  the  usual  or  legal  one.  For 
instance,  I  asked  the  clerk  at  another  hotel  in  Brigh- 
ton, what  was  the  fare  by  the  hour  for  a  drive  in  an 
open  cab  or  victoria  holding  two  persons.  ' '  Four  shil- 
lings per  hour,"  quickly  responded  my  misinformant.  I 
knew  better,  for  this  was  not  my  first  visit  to  Brighton, 
but  said  nothing.  To  a  cabman  with  a  good-looking 
victoria  who  stood  immediately  opposite  the  hotel  en- 
trance I  popped  this  question  :  "  What  will  you  charge 
us  for  an  hour's  drive  along  the  beach  and  about  the 
town?"  "  Two-and-six, "  briskly  replied  cabbie  and  we 
drove  about  the  pretty  place  for  a  whole  hour  for  the 
half  crown. 


A  VISIT  TO   BLEAK   HOUSE. 


Bleak  House,  the  scene  of  the  novel  of  that  name,  is 
near  the  \411age  of  St.  Albans,  about  twenty  miles  from 
London,  and  is  described  in  the  early  part  of  the 
story  as  an  "old-fashioned  house  with  three  peaks  in 
the  roof  in  front  and  a  circular  sweep  leading  to  the 
porch. "  That  there  was  more  than  one  Bleak  House 
in  the  mind  of  Dickens  "there  can  be  no  possible 
probable  manner  of  doubt,"  as  Gilbert  sings  in  "The 
Gondoliers,"  because  at  the  close  of  the  story  one  of 
the  characters  in  it  is  made  to  say,  ' '  Both  houses  are 
your  home,  my  dear,  but  the  older  Bleak  House  claims 
priority. " 

But  the  ' '  Bleak  House  "  which  was  for  many  years 
the  home  of  Charles  Dickens,  and  where  he  wrote 
many  of  his  novels,  was  so  named  by  the  author 
after  his  famous  story.  It  is  located  in  the  old-fash- 
ioned village  of  Broadstairs,  on  the  North  Sea,  in  the 
county  of  Kent,  the  garden  of  England,  and  is  seventy- 
two  miles  from  London,  on  the  London,  Chatham 
and  Dover  Railway.  The  population  is  g^ven  in  the 
latest  census  as  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
three. 

The  house  was  formerly  called  Fort  House,  from  its 
proximity  to  the  British  fortifications  on  the  coast.  It 
stands  directly  on  the  top  of  the  chalk  cliffs,  seventy- 
five  feet  above  the  water,  quite  alone,  and  so  near  to  the 
edge  that  from  the  portico  a  stone  might  be  easily 
thrown  into  the  surf — what  little  surf  there  is.     It  com- 

111 


BI.SA.K:    HOUSE. 


lis 


A    VISIT   TO   BLEAK  HOUSE.      "        113 

mands  a  wide  view  of  the  ocean.  In  the  southwest  it 
looks  toward  Ramsgate,  a  seaside  pleasure  resort,  dis- 
tant five  miles ;  in  the  northeast  toward  Kingsgate. 
The  house  is  appropriately  named,  for  it  is  indeed  bleak 
from  Christmas  until  April,  when  the  cold,  biting  north- 
east winds,  for  which  these  parts  are  noted,  blow  with 
all  their  might. 

It  was  natural  for  Dickens  to  select  such  a  spot  for  a 
residence.  If  he  was  not  actually  fond  of  the  sea,  he 
certainly  had  a  great  liking  for  the  sea-coast,  with 
which  were  associated  the  earliest  memories  of  his 
childhood.  It  will  be  remembered  that  he  was  bom  at 
Portsmouth,  a  fortified  seaport  town,  and  the  principal 
naval  station  of  Great  Britain,  about  one  hundred 
miles  southwest  of  London.  Dickens  lived  at  Ports- 
mouth until  he  arrived  at  his  majority.  At  Portsmouth 
he  studied  law,  but  he  found  Blackstone  and  Coke 
rather  dry  reading,  and  so  went  to  London  where,  as 
every,  body  knows,  he  entered  upon  his  literary  career 
by  reporting  parliamentary  debates  for  the  Morning 
Chronicle. 

Blfiak  House  is  a  plain,  substantial,  compact,  three- 
story  structure  of  burnt  brick.  It  has  grounds  of  one 
and  a  quarter  acres  in  extent,  and  the  property' is  what 
is  called  in  England  "  freehold  ;  "  value,  two  thousand 
seven  hundred  pounds  sterling.  A  stone  wall  five  feet 
high,  encloses  the  house  on  two  sides.  One  side  of  the 
house  is  a  flat,  blank  wall,  evidently  planned  so  that  an 
extension  could  be  easily  made,  and  the  lower  part  of 
the  front  is  protected  by  plain  iron  railings.  The  en- 
trance is  by  a  low  flight  of  five  steps  leading  up  to  a 
portico  and  doorway  supported  by  Doric  columns. 
Next  the  doorway,  on  the  first  story,  a  semi-circular 
bay  window  projects,  and  on  the  second  story  are 
two  deep  windows  which  open  upon  a  pretty  orna- 
mental iron  balcony,  having  a  curved,  sloping  roof. 
A  great  deal  of  ivy  softens  the  bareness  of  the  archi- 


114  A    VISIT  TO  BLEAK  HOUSE. 

tecture.  It  climbs  up  the  walls  and  around  the  bay 
windows. 

Dickens  was  very  partial  to  the  ivy  plant,  as  his 
lyric,  "The  Ivy  Green,"  testifies.  He  wrote  several 
lyrics,  but  "  The 'Ivy  Green  "  which  appeared  originally 
in  "  Pickwick  Papers  "  is  the  only  one  that  has  become 
familiar.  It  was  first  published  as  a  song  in  the  United 
States,  and  when  a  London  publisher  wished  to  repro- 
duce it  in  England,  Dickens  refused  the  privilege  ex- 
cept on  the  condition  that  the  publisher  pay  ten  guineas 
to  the  composer,  Henry  Russell..' 

Dickens  was  more  thoughtful  concerning  Henry  Rus- 
sell's rights  than  this  English  composer  is  of  the  rights 
of  others.  I  well  remember  that  my  predecessor  on  the 
Home  Journal,  the  much  beloved  poet,  George  P.  Mor- 
ris, had  a  grudge  against  Russell,  because  Russell,  in 
England,  claimed  to  be  the  author  of  the  words, 
"Woodman,  Spare  that  Tree,"  as  well  as  the  com- 
poser of  the  music;  and  it  is  my  humble  opinion  that 
the  music  in  merit  is  far  below  Morris's  poetry.  The 
sentiment  is  beautiful,  the  words  breathe  a  true, 
manly  spirit  and  are  full  of  deep  feeling,  while  *the 
music  is  plaintive,  weak,  childish  —  namby-pamby  ex- 
presses it. 

Russell  did  better  with  the  English  poet  Mackay's 
song,  "  Cheer,  Boys,  Cheer,"  making  it  go  with  life  and 
spirit,  and  he  set  appropriate  music  to  our  own  Epes 
Sargent's  song,  "  A  Life  on  the  Ocean  Wave,"  in  which 
you  may  fancy  you  almost  see  the  good  old  sailing  ship 
bowling  along  before  the  wind.  Henry  Russell,  who, 
by  the  way,  is  the  father  of  Clark  Russell,  the  novelist, 
is  still  living  in  London — February,  1892. 

As  to  the  melody,  "  The  Ivy  Green,"  an  astute  critic 
says  :  "  It  seems  to  me  the  composer  has  failed  to  catch 
the  poet's  meaning.  Dickens's  words  are  as  sombre  and 
tender  as  the  vine  that  deepens  the  shadows  and  softens 
the  ruggedness  of  decaying  grandeur ;  while  Russell's 


A   VISIT  TO  BLEAK  HOUSE.  115 

music  is  as  free  and  sturdy  as  the  hardiest  oak. "    The 
song  opens  with  this  stanza : 

A  dainty  plant  is  the  ivy  green 

That  creepeth  o'er  ruins  old, 
Of  rich  choice  food  are  his  meals,  I  ween, 

In  his  cell  so  lone  and  cold  ; 
The  wall  must  be  crumbled,  the  stones  decayed. 

To  pleasure  his  dainty  whim. 
And  the  mould'ring  dust  that  years  have  made, 

Is  a  merry  meal  tor  him. 
Creeping  where  no  life  is  seen, 

A  rare  old  plant  is  the  ivy  green. 

The.  house  is  about  fifty  years  old,  and  contains  ten 
rooms.  Dickens's  study  was  on  the  second  floor,  front. 
It  has  a  southeastern  outlook  ;  he  was  fond  of  the  rising 
sun.  The  furniture  and  appointments  of  the  room, 
which  the  writer  saw  in  the  autumn  of  1891,  remain  as 
when  Dickens  left  them — table  with  telescope,  book- 
case, plain  wooden  armchair,  etc. — a  very  simply  fur- 
nished study.  He  did  not  die  at  Bleak  House,  however, 
but  at  a  short  distance  from  it,  on  June  9,  1870,  at  Gads' 
Hill,  "  Higham  by  Rochester,  Kent,"  as  he  was  in  the 
habit  of  dating  from. 

Dickens,  at  Bleak  House,  was  a  tenant  of  a  Mr.  Fos- 
bury,  but  the  house  was  sold  after  Dickens's  death,  and 
is  at  present  owned  in  Broadstairs  by  ' '  W.  S.  Black- 
bum,  house  and  estate  agent,  undertaker,  builder  and 
decorator,  and  upholsterer  and  mover  of  furniture,"  by 
which  man-of-many-trades  the  house  was  leased  for  a 
very  short  term  to  a  Mrs.  Whitehead,  sister  of  the  vicar 
of  St.  Peter's  of  Broadstairs,  at  an  annual  rent  of  six 
hundred  dollars.  Mr.  Blackburn  now  offers  the  prop- 
erty for  sale.  It  would  make  a  cool  and  charming  sum- 
mer retreat  for  some  American  prince.  Or  let  some 
large-hearted  and  large-pursed  man  like  George  W. 
Childs  buy  the  precious  property  and  present  it  to  the 
village  of  Broadstairs. 


BATH  AND  ITS  ATTRACTIONS. 


The  beauty  of  Bath  is  an  old  story  ;  indeed,  it  is  pro- 
verbial. Lord  Macaulay  described  Bath  as  "that 
beautiful  city  which  charms  even  eyes  familiar  with  the 
masterpieces  of  Bramante  and  Palladio";  Carlyle  de- 
clared it  to  be  "the  prettiest  town  in  all  England ";  and 
Walter  Savage  Landor  averred,  in  his  usual  downright 
way,  "that  it  was  the  only  placi  worth  living  in,  after 
Florence  ".  The  Londoti  Globe,  as  far  back  as  the  30th 
of  October,  1869,  in  an  article  discussing  the  attractions 
of  English  towns,  said  :  ' '  Bath  is,  with  perhaps  the  ex- 
ception of  Edinburgh,  the  most  beautiful  city  in  the 
kingdom." 

Of  the  valley  in  which  the  city  reposes,  the  physical 
features  are  distinctly  marked  and  impressive.  Bath 
lies  in  the  centre  of  a  vast  amphitheatre  of  hills  that 
present  the  most  varied  outlines,  and  every  variety  of 
light,  shade  and  color.  In  some  places  bold  eminences 
rise  and  impend  over  the  low  lying  fields  and  orchards  ; 
in  others,  a  green  and  gradual  ascent  presents  a  widen- 
ing pro.spect.  Everywhere  there  is  a  happy  blending  of 
town  and  country.  At  the  end  of  each  street  verdant 
slopes  or  rugged  rocks  meet  the  gaze.  No  matter  where 
you  stand,  whether  on  Claverton  Down,  rising  six  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  on  the  still  loftier 
range  of  Lansdown,  with  Beckford's  Tower,  or  on 
Beechen  Cliff,  or  on  Sham  Castle,  everywhere  a  lovely 
panorama  is  spread  out  before  you.  Being  well  pro- 
tected on  all  sides  by  hills  the  climate  is  never  severe, 
and  is  even  genial  and  balmy  in  the  colder  months  of 
the  year. 

Much  of  what  is  told  us  of  the  early  history  of  Bath  is 
of  a  legendary  character,  and  no  statement  entitled  to 

116 


BATH  AND   ITS  ATTRACTIONS.  117 

credit  can,  we  are  assured  on  good  authority,  be  made 
regarding  the  discovery  and  use  of  its  thermal  mineral 
springs,  prior  to  the  Roman  occupation  of  the  locality 
about  the  middle  of  the  first  century. 

To  what  extent  the  practice  of  drinking  the  waters 
was  carried  in  early  times  we  have  little  means  of  know- 
ing, but  it  is  certain  that  they  were  rarely  ever  pre- 
scribed for  use  internally,  as  a  therapeutic  agent,  until 
the  time  of  Sir  Alexander  Fraser,  physician  to  Charles 
II.  in  1663. 

The  medicinal  value  of  these  healing  springs  even 
now  would  seem  to  be  less  extensively  known  than  in 
the  interests  of  humanity  it  deserves  to  be.  Numbers 
of  English  people  annually  resort  to  the  Continental 
spas  for  means  of  relief  from  some  lingering  disease, 
apparently  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  almost  at  their  doors 
and  in  a  city  so  accessible  as  Bath,  there  exist  fountains 
of  equal  or  greater  efficacj'  for  healing  and  under  con- 
ditions of  far  greater  comfort  and  convenience. 

Among  the  diseases  to  which  the  Bath  waters  are  speci- 
ally applicable  are  rheumatism,  gout,  various  intestinal 
diseases,  sciatica,  neuralgia,  nervous  debility,  eczema, 
and  other  skin  diseases,  bilious  affections,  dyspepsia 
and  catarrh. 

The  many  buildings  devoted  to  the  baths  form  a  con- 
spicuous feature  in  the  architecture  and  embellishment 
of  the  city.  Not  to  enumerate  them  all.  there  is  the 
King's  Bath,  adjoining  the  Grand  Pimip  Room,  about 
60  feet  in  length  and  40  feet  wide,  and  containing  over 
50,000  gallons  of  water  at  a  temperature  of  117  degrees 
Fahrenheit ;  the  Hot  Baths,  the  spring  supplying  which 
has  a  temperature  of  120  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the 
tepid  Swimming  Bath,  for  gentlemen  only,  60  feet  long 
and  25  feet  wide,  and  containing  more  than  37,000  gal- 
lons of  warer. 

In  the  business  part  of  the  town  there  is  a  faucet 
where  the  hot  mineral  water  flows  constantly  ^r<7  bono 


118  BATH  AND  ITS  ATTRACTIONS. 

publico.  It  may  be  "good  for  the  stomach,"  but  to  a 
strange  palate  it  is  not  pleasant.  An  educated  taste  is 
needed  before  one  can  take  delight  in  the  bubbling, 
boiling  beverage. 

The  whole  town  is  built  of  Bath  stone,  which  is  soft 
and  white  when  quarried  and  first  used  in  building.  It 
hardens  with  time,  however,  resembling  after  a  few 
years  of  exposure  the  black  buildings  in  London  which 
were  once  gray.  The  inhabitants  have  a  fancy  for  win- 
dow gardens,  and  the  bright  flowers  and  green  leaves 
about  the  windows  form  a  ple&sing  contrast  to  their 
sombre-colored  surroundings.  Bath  stone  and  Bath 
brick  are  known  all  over  England  ;  also  Bath  chairs  and 
Bath  buns,  which  originated  there. 

There  are  several  good  specimens  of  hotel  architec- 
ture, the  Grand  Pump  Room  Hotel,  for  instance,  near 
the  old  Abbey,  and  in  which  there  are  several  mineral 
baths.  The  interior  of  the  hotel,  however,  is  not  so 
"grand  "as  its  name  and  its  imposing  exterior  would 
lead  you  to  expect.  If  you  want  to  save  cab  hire  there 
is  a  small  and  modest  looking  house,  with  the  somewhat 
pretentious  title,  "The  Royal  Station  Hotel,"  which  is 
reached  by  a  bridge  from  the  railway  station,  across  the 
narrow  street. 

A  good  class  of  English  and  also  Americans  of  quiet 
and  refined  tastes  favor  the  York  House  Hotel.  It  is  an 
establishment  of  the  first  class,  having  a  central  and 
beautiful  situation  on  a  wide  and  leading  thoroughfare. 
Next  door  are  the  post  and  telegraph  offices  ;  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  are  the  Royal  Victoria  Park,  the 
theatre,  the  Assembly  Rooms  and  the  attractive  Cres- 
cents of  the  city  ;  the  principal  baths  are  within  walking 
distance  and  the  railway  stations  are  reached  by  cab  in 
five  minutes.  The  public  rooms  are  handsomely  fitted 
up  and  the  bedrooms  are  luxurious  in  size  and  very 
home-like.  Meals  are  served  at  small  tables  and  the 
tariff  is  moderate.     It  is  essentially  a   house   for   the 


BATH  AND  ITS  ATTRACTIONS.  119 

patronage  of  families.  E.  Ashcroft,  who  is  proprietor 
of  the  St.  Vincent  Rocks  Hotel  in  Clifton,  Bristol,  is 
proprietor  of  the  York  House  Hotel  at  Bath. 

The  Great  Western  Railway  which  takes  you  to  Bath, 
from  Paddington  station  in  London  (one  hundred  and 
seven  miles)  in  2%  hours,  is  one  of  the  important  British 
roads.  By  the  Great  Western  you  go  to  Torquay,  and 
Plymouth,  on  the  southwest  coast,  and  to  such  interest- 
ing points  as  Warwick,  Stratford-upon-Avon,  the  old 
town  of  Chester  and  beautiful  Leamington.  The  road 
traverses  a  lovely  part  of  the  country.  £fi  route  you 
get  a  glimpse  of  Windsor  Castle  and  pass  through  Tap- 
low  and  Maidenhead  on  the  Thames,  the  rails  or 
"metals,"  as  they  are  called  in  England,  skirting  the 
river  for  many  miles,  affording  delightful  views  of  the 
Thames — not  a  wide  sheet  of  water  but  very  picturesque 
in  this  region. 

Long  before  you  approach  Bath  the  Avon  is  sighted, 
and  as  you  near  the  station  the  eye  is  greeted  by  the 
noble  hills  which  surround  the  ancient  city. 


TAKIN'  NOTES 

IN    EDINBORO'    TOWN. 


Singular  that  more  Americans  do  not  ' '  take  in  "  Scot- 
land when  they  are  making  the  grand  tour.  Its  historic 
interest  and  its  scenic  beauty 'are  great.  Glasgow  is 
reached  direct  from  New  York,  by  the  fine  fleet  of  An- 
chor boats,  numbered  among  which  are  the  "  Fumes- 
sia,"  the  "  Devonia  "  and  the  "  City  of  Rome."  Except- 
ing the  last  named  the  Scotch  boats  are  slow  in  these 
days  of  "racers  "  and  "  greyhounds,"  but  they  are  very 
comfortable  vessels,  as  I  know,  from  experience,  and  I 
have  crossed  in  seven  days  by  the  "Rome" — crossed, 
that  is,  from  Queenstown  to  New  York. 

If  you  don't  care  about  bustling,  busy  Glasgow,  with 
its  smoke  and  its  dirt,  bonnie  Edinburgh  is  distant  only 
sixty-five  minutes  by  express  trains  of  the  Caledonian 
railway,  one  of  the  best  built  and  best  equipped  roads 
in  Great  Britain, 

It  hasn't  the  commerce  of  Glasgow,  not  being  a  sea- 
port, but  it  is  the  cleanest  city  I  ever  visited,  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful.  Many  travellers  consider  London 
the  most  interesting  city  in  the  world,  but  to  a  casual 
observer,  five  of  the  most  attractive  cities  in  Europe  are 
Rome,  Paris,  Vienna,  Venice  and  Edinburgh. 

Edinburgh  is  built  entirely  of  granite  and  freestone. 
You  don't  see  a  brick  excepting  in  a  very  few  and  very 
tall  factory  chimneys.  To  some  eyes  this  is  monoton- 
ous ;  to  mine  it  is  pleasing.  It  looks,  and  it  is,  substan- 
tial, solid  and  strong. 

Don't  come  at  any  time,  not  even  in  August,  without 
winter  clothing.  The  winds  are  keen  and  cutting. 
12{) 


TAKIN'  NOTES  Wl 

Umbrella  and  "waterproof"  are  indispensable;  over- 
shoes, also,  if  it  is  your  habit  to  wear  them,  for  ' '  the 
rain  it  raineth  every  day  " — so  to  speak.  This  is  not 
the  remark  of  a  hasty  tourist.  I  have  been  making 
trips  to  Scotland  for  the  past  twenty  years  and  I  have 
stayed  there  for  weeks  at  a  time. 

It  is  cool  here  and  rain  is  frequent,  but  everything  in 
this  life  has  its  compensation.  This  is  the  twentieth  day 
of  August,  1 89 1,  and  we  have  strawberries  for  breakfast 
every  morning  and  fresh  g^een  peas  are  in  season. 
Large,  luscious  strawberries  and  raspberries  sixpence  a 
quart.  Edinburgh,  remember,  is  four  hundred  miles 
north  of  London.  The  twilight  is  long  and  late.  I  was 
reading  a  badly-printed  Scotch  newspaper  this  evening 
by  daylight  at  half-past  eight. 

Labor  is  cheap  here,  and  yet  boys  do  men's  work,  such 
as  driving  carts  and  sweeping  the  streets. 

The  drives  in  and  about  Edinburgh  are  very  attract- 
ive, and  there  are  no  better  roads  anywhere. 

There  are  tram-cars  in  the  city :  fare,  inside,  two 
pence  ;  "  on  top,"  one  penny.  There  are  also  two  lines 
of  cable  cars. 

In  a  "  distillery  agent's"  window,  in  Princes  street,  I 
saw  flasks  of  wine  marked  "two  shillings."  I  stepped 
in  and  bought  a  flask.  "One  penny  more,"  remarked 
the  salesman.  "  For  what,"  said  I,  inquiringly.  "  For 
the  cork."  When  I  reached  my  hotel  I  applied  a  cork- 
screw ;  it  wouldn't  budge.  The  penny  "cork"  was  a 
glass  stopper  with  a  "worm,"  to  screw  on  and  off. 

It  strikes  a- stranger  as  rather  odd  to  see  men  and  boys 
carry  so  much  on  their  heads  and  to  see  them  balance 
their  loads  with  such  nicety.  Instead  of  using  small, 
light  push  carts,  or  delivering  goods  in  baskets  hanging 
on  the  arm,  as  is  done  in  New  York,  Edinburgh  boys 
use  a  tray  or  flat  board  with  an  edge  turned  up,  in  which 
they  carry  vegetables,  meat,  poultry,  fruit,  etc.  This 
tray  is  placed  on  the  head  and  is  scarcely  ever  touched 


123  TAKIN'  NOTES. 

by  the  hand  except  to  load  or  unload.  The  head  in 
Edinburgh  is  made  to  do  good  physical  service. 

The  house  still  stands,  and  is  likely  to  stand  for  cen- 
turies, in  which  Walter  Scott  lived  for  years,  and  in 
which  he  wrote  several  of  his  novels.  It  is  of  granite, 
with  a  rounded  (swelled)  front,  three  stories  high  and 
about  thirty  feet  wide.  You  must  look  it  up  when  you 
go  to  Edinburgh — No.  39  Castle  street.  It  is  now  used  for 
office  purposes,  and  is  tenanted  by  doctors,  lawyers,  civil 
engineers  and  the  like.  In  the  transom  window,  over  the 
door,  you  will  see  a  small  marble  bust  of  the  novelist. 

Princes  street,  the  principal  street,  is  not  very  long, 
only  about  one  mile,  but  as  far  as  it  goes  it  is  not  easily 
surpassed  in  any  city.  On  one  side  are  the  principal 
hotels  and  business  blocks,  all  of  granite  or  freestone  ; 
on  the  other  side  are  the  handsome  Princes  Gardens 
with  monuments  and  the  magnificent  Art  Institute  in 
the  foreground,  and  in  the  background  such  buildings  as 
the  Castle,  several  churches  and  the  Bank  of  Scotland. 

The  gardens,  with  their  terraces,  gravel  walks,  foun- 
tains, rustic  seats,  lawns  and  flower-beds  are  uncom- 
monly attractive.  It  would  seem  that  nowhere  are  the 
flowers  brought  to  a  higher  state  of  cultivation  than  in 
the  Princes  Gardens. 

Blackwood  has  a  large  but  very  quiet-looking  shop  in 
George  street,  not  so  crowded  a  thoroughfare  as  Princes 
street,  but  in  which  a  very  select  business  is  transacted. 

Thomas  Nelson  &  Sons  have  the  largest  book  publish- 
ing establishment  in  Scotland — I  was  going  to  say  in 
Great  Britain.  Their  business  buildings  cover  a  vast 
space,  and  the  late  Mr.  Nelson's  residence,  not  far  from 
Holyrood  Palace  and  Arthur's  Seat,  is  one  of  the  most 
attractive  private  citizens'  residences  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  It  was  only  two  or  three  years  ago,  so  a  coach- 
man informed  me,  that  Mr.  Nelson  gave  ten  thousand 
pounds  to  restore  the  front  of  the  castle. 

David  Douglas,  whose  retail  house  is  at  No.  9  Castle 


TAKIN'  NOTES.  138 

street,  makes  a  specialty  of  publishing  and  republishing 
works  of  American  authors,  and  finds  his  profit  in  it. 
You  may  pick  up  on  his  counters  almost  anything  of 
Longfellow,  Holmes,  Lowell,  Howells,  Winter  and 
Aldrich.  Winter's  "Shakespeare  in  England"  and  a 
later  work,  "  Gray  Days  and  Gold,"  were  both  published 
by  Douglas,  duplicate  plates  being  sent  over  to  Mac- 
millan  of  New  York. 

Talk  of  books  being  expensive  in  England  :  these 
very  books  by  Winter  which  Macmillan  sells  in  New 
York  at  seventy-five  cents  each,  Douglas  publishes  at 
two  shillings  ;  in  paper  covers  for  one  shilling — twenty- 
five  cents. 

Douglas's  people  tell  me  that  Winter's  books  find  a 
ready  sale  in  Great  Britain.  The  critics  and  the  reading 
public  are  delighted  with  his  sketches  of  English  and 
Scotch  scenery,  and  especially  with  his  scholarly  and 
beautiful  descriptions  of  Stratford-on-Avon  and  Shake- 
speare's country.  They  think  that  no  author  has  writ- 
ten with  more  reverence  and  feeling  about  Shakespeare. 
They  find  "his  language  poetical  and  his  style  artistic, 
with  a  Meissonier-like  finish." 

Fruits  and  Flowers. — In  Scotland  herrings  are  al- 
ways sold  by  pairs,  haddocks  by  threes.  In  England 
and  Scotland  fruit  is  sold  by  the  pound,  so  are  vegeta- 
bles :  and  this  fair  and  excellent  method  proves  satis- 
factory  to  buyer  and  seller.  Flowers  and  fruit  are  sold 
in  the  same  shop  :  the  signs  read,  ' '  fruiterer  and  florist. " 
Flowers  are  very  high  in  price.  They  use  growing 
flowers  and  living  plants  in  pots  very  freely  to  decorate 
the  dinner  table,  but  this  idea,  which  is  pretty  enough 
in  its  way,  is  carried  too  far  in  hotel  dining-rooms.  So 
many  tall  plants  make  the  table  look  dark  and  heavy, 
and  the  broad  leaves  prevent  you  from  seeing  your 
neighbor  or  chatting  with  a  friend  on  the  other  side  of 
the  table,  for  in  some  hotels  they  still  persist  in  using 
the  old-fashioned  long  tables  which  are  neither  home- 


124  TAKIN'  NOTES. 

like  nor  comfortable.  Choice  fruit,  being  either  im- 
ported from  the  warmer  climates  or  grown  under  glass, 
is  very  expensive  in  the  British  kingdom.  You  pay 
sixpence  or  a  shilling  for  a  peach  or  nectarine  ;  two 
shillings  each  for  choice  varieties.  The  largest  and 
handsomest  peach  ever  grown,  possibly,  or  certainly 
ever  shown,  was  exhibited  last  summer  in  a  shop  win- 
dow in  Buchanan  street,  Glasgow.  It  weighed  eighteen 
ounces,  price  three-and-sixpence. 

The  capital  of  Scotland  is  always  spelled  Edinburgh, 
but  is  always  pronounced  Edinbfcro'. 

In  the  stamp  department  of  the  post-office  in  Edin- 
burgh there  is  a  shallow  indentation  about  four  inches 
square  in  the  table,  in  which  a  piece  of  felt  is  kept  con- 
stantly damp.  Instead  of  putting  the  stamp  on  your 
tongue  you  pass  it  over  the  piece  of  felt  before  placing  it 
on  the  envelope.  Small  matter,  but  very  convenient,  and 
shows  thoughtfulness  on  the  part  of  the  authorities. 

Street  Religion. — There's  a  great  deal  of  poverty 
and  drunkenness  in  Edinburgh,  but  there  is  also  a  great 
deal  of  religion.  All  the  churches  are  well  attended  on 
Sunday,  and  there  are  preaching,  praying  and  singing 
in  the  public  streets.  Church  choirs,  men  and  women, 
stand  and  sing  in' the  public  highways.  In  the  lower 
quarters  of  the  city  they  attract  people  with  a  harmon- 
ium, which  is  wheeled  about  from  place  to  place.  Passers- 
by  stop,  join  in  the  singing,  and  in  fine  weather  uncover 
their  heads.    The  singers  are  not  paid  for  their  services. 

The  Docs. — Here's  a  hint  for  the  society  which  Mr. 
Henry  Bcrgh  founded : — On  the  sidewalk  in  front  of 
large  shops  and  public  buildings  in  Glasgow  and  Edin- 
burgh they  place  small  earthenware  or  iron  vessels  filled 
with  water  for  passing  dogs.  The  vessel  is  simply  and 
legibly  marked  "  Dog."  Probably  the  dogs  cannot  read, 
but  they  seem  to  know  or  to  "nose  out"  the  shops 
where  such  a  humane  practice  is  carried  out.  But  a  cer- 
tain Scotch  editor  contends  that  Scotch  dogs  can  read. 


TAKIN'  NOTES.  135 

•  India  Rubber  Pavement.— The  attention  of  every 
stranger  who  walks  in  Princes  street,  Edinburgh,  is 
immediately  arrested  as  soon  as  he  gets  in  front  of  a 
certain  shop,  nearly  opposite  the  castle,  where  rubber 
goods  are  sold.  His  attention  is  arrested  because  he 
finds  himself  on  a  yielding  pavement.  It  is  a  rubber 
"  sidewalk  "  (as  we  say  in  New  York),  and  was  laid 
there  by  the  enterprising  shopkeeper.  It  is  very  pleas- 
ant and  comfortable  to  walk  on,  and  so  durable  that  the 
authorities  have  talked  about  putting  down  rubber 
pavements  on  both  sides  of  Princes  street. 

Glasgow  University.  —  There  is  not  much  for  the 
tourist  to  see  in  Glasgow  except  the  university,  the 
cathedral,  founded  in  the  fourteenth  century,  and  the 
municipal  buildings.  But  the  first-named  is  worth  walk- 
ing many  miles  to  visit,  if  one  is  interested  in  such 
things.  I  spent  several  hours  in  the  university  with 
pleasure  and  profit.  This  university,  Glasgow  people 
claim,  is  the  finest  in  Scotland.  It  accommodates  twenty- 
three  hundred  students  who  pay  an  average  of  forty 
pounds  a  year.  It  is  generously  endowed.  The  build- 
ings are  of  g^ranite  and  present  a  noble  appearance, 
standing  on  very  high  ground  in  their  own  large  park, 
which  is  beautifully  laid  out  with  terraces,  flower  beds 
and  gravel  walks.  There  are  some  grand  old  trees  in 
the  park,  and  a  pretty  winding  lake,  over  which  are 
thrown  many  picturesque  bridges.  Though  it  is  a  seat 
of  learning,  you  will  not  expect  the  services  of  a  college 
professor  as  a  cicerone,  but  you  might  naturally  expect 
to  hear  fair  English  spoken.  The  liveried  servant  who 
guides  you  will  tell  you,  with  strong  aspirations,  of  the 
"  helementary  "  classes  and  the  "  school  of  harts. "  In 
describing  the  modus  operandi  of  taking  the  gold  medal, 
the  graduate  sitting  in  a  very  high-backed  chair,  which 
is  several  hundred  years  old,  you  will  be  told  "it's  a 
\^xy  'igh  honor. " 

In  the  "  Edinburgh  Cafe,"  a  fairish  kind  of  restaurant 


126  TAKIN'  NOTES. 

in  Princes  street,  opposite  the  Scott  monument,  a  penny 
is  charged  for  the  privilege  of  washing  your  hands,  and 
a  penny  for  the  use  of  a  napkin.  The  majority  of  this 
cafe's  customers,  however,  if  the  truth  must  be  told, 
make  a  mouchoir  serve  for  a  serviette. 

Slippers  Supplied  Free. — If  you  go  to  Philp's  Cock- 
bum  (pronounced  Coburn)  Hotel  in  Edinburgh,  it  mat- 
ters not  if  you  have  forgotten  to  pack  your  slippers  in 
your  portmanteau,  for  the  porter  will  provide  you  with 
a  pair.  One  hundred  pairs  of  red  morocco  slippers  are 
kept  at  this  hotel  for  the  use  of  guests.  A  foot  of  any 
size  can  be  accommodated,  and  there  is  no  charge. 

Smoking  is  not  allowed  in  bedrooms  of  Scotch  hotels, 
and  a  notice  to  that  effect  is  posted  in  each  room. 
"Smoking  rooms  "are  provided,  and  only  such  apart- 
ment may  be  used  for  this  purpose.  They  are  both 
smoky  and  dingy. 

An  Edinburgh  Dollar  Dinner. — I  have  dined  at  the 
leading  hotels  in  New  York,  at  "The  States,  "in  Saratoga, 
the  Breslin,  at  Lake  Hopatcong,  and  my  experience  in- 
cludes the  leading  hotels  in  the  principal  European  cap- 
itals, and  the  leading  hotels  in  the  Southern  and  far 
Western  States,  as  far  as  California,  yet  I  can  say  that 
the  table  dlidte  dinner  served  at  Philp's  Cockburn  Hotel, 
Edinburgh  (one  Sunday  last  summer),  will  rank  with 
the  fare  at  any  of  these  houses,  and  it  excels  the  table 
d'hote  at  some  high-priced  hotels  in  London  and  Paris. 
Yet  the  price  charged  for  this  dinner  was  very  moder- 
ate— only  four  shillings,  about  one  dollar.  The  dinner 
included  grouse,  peaches,  strawberries  and  nectarines, 
and  from  the  hare  soup  down  to  the  dessert,  everything 
was  well  cooked  and  nicely  served.  The  charge  is  re- 
markably moderate  when  it  is  understood  that  this  is  a 
' '  temperance  house, "  and  when  you  know  that  the  choice 
fruit  is  grown  under  glass  at  high  cost.  The  dinner  would 
have  been  perfect  with  ca/dnoir  at  the  close,  but  this  is 
not  served  in  British  hotels  without  additional  charge. 


THE  BURNS  MONUMENT. 


If  Baltimore  is  the  monumental  city  of  the  United 
States,  Edinburgh  may  surely  be  called  the  monument- 
al city  of  the  United  Kingdom.  The  majority  of  its 
public  buildings,  of  freestone  or  granite,  are  noble 
structures  standing  on  hills  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
for  their  situation  alone  would  command  admiration — 
the  old  Castle,  Nelson  monument,  the  city  prison,  the 
National  Gallery,  the  Bank  of  Scotland,  etc.  No  bank 
in  the  world  occupies  a  more  commanding  site  than  the 
one  just  named.  Owing  to  the  peculiar  natural  forma- 
tion of  the  land  upon  which  the  city  is  built,  an  observer 
may  stand  in  one  spot  in  Edinburgh  (say  the  Waverley 
Gardens)  and  see  a  greater  number  of  splendid  build- 
ings at  a  glance  than  may  be  seen  simultaneously  from 
the  level  in  any  other  city. 

Not  among  the  largest  by  any  means  but  among  the 
most  interesting  must  be  reckoned  the  Burns  monument, 
which  occupies  a  high  position  near  its  still  higher 
neighbor,  the  Nelson  monument,  on  Calton  Hill.  The 
Bums  monument  was  built  in  1 830  for  the  purpose  of 
containing  a  marble  statue  of  the  poet  by  Flaxman. 
The  building,  of  freestone,  is  a  circular  temple  on  a 
quadrangular  basement  surrounded  by  a  peristyle  of 
twelve  Corinthian  columns  which  support  an  entabla- 
ture and  cornice.  Over  this  is  a  cupola,  a  restoration  of 
the  monument  of  Lysicrates  at  Athens.  The  whole  is 
surmounted  by  a  tripod  supported  by  \vinged  griffins. 
The  extreme  height  of  the  structure  is  fifty  feet,  the 
tweh'^e  outside  columns  are  fourteen  feet  high  and  the 
twelve  inside  columns  are  ten  feet  high.     The  latter 

m 


138  THE  BURNS  MONUMENT. 

are  of  freestone  painted  to  represent  variegated  marble. 
The  cost  of  the  monument  and  statue  was  three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  pounds  sterling  (about  sixteen  thou- 
sand five  hundred  dollars) — not  a  large  sum  considering 
the  result  attained. 

Besides  the  statue  of  the  poet,  the  monument  holds  a 
number  of  relics — letters  written  by  or  to  Burns,  the 
worm-eaten  three-legged  stool  upon  which  the  poet  sat 
in  1786  and  '87  while  correcting  the  proofs  of  his  poems, 
and  other  things  of  interest.  A  letter  from  the  poet  to 
his  cousin,  James  Burness,  and  dated  Lochee,  21st  June, 
1783,  complains  of  the  depressed  state  of  the  country 
during  the  American  war.  As  is  well  known,  the  poet 
spelled  his  name  Burness  (his  family  name)  until  the 
publication  of  his  poems  in  1786.  Another  letter  to  his 
cousin,  dated  Mossgiel,  August  3,  1784,  describes  the 
fanatical  religious  sect  that  had  sprung  up  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Dumfries  headed  by  a  mad  woman  named 
Buchan.  Hence  they  called  themselves  Buchanites. 
The  subjoined  manuscript  poem  accompanied  a  gift  of 
fresh  eggs  from  Burns's  wife  to  Alexander  Findlater  : 

Dear  sir,  our  lacky  humbly  begs 
Yell  pree  her  caller  new-laid  Eggs 
And  grant  the  cock  may  keep  his  legs 
Aboon  the  chuckles. 
Ell es land,  Dece?nl>er  22,  ijSS. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  letters  is  here  given  in 
full: 
To 

Mr.  James  Burness 

Writer,  Montrose. 
My  Dear  Cousin  : 

When  you  offered  me  money  assistance,  little  did  I 
think  I  should  want  it  so  soon.  A  rascal  of  a  haber- 
dasher to  whom  I  owe  a  considerable  bill,  taking  into 
his  head  that  I  am  dying,  has  commenced  a  process 
against  me  and  will  infallibly  put  my  emaciated  body 
into  jail.     Will  you  be  so  good  as  to  accommodate  me, 


THE  BURNS  MONUMENT.  129 

and  that  by  return  of  post,  with  ten  pounds.  O,  James, 
did  you  know  the  pride  of  my  heart  you  would  feel  doubly 
for  me.  Alas,  I  am  not  used  to  beg.  The  worse  of  it  is 
my  health  was  coming  about  finely,  you  know,  and  my 
physician  assures  me  that  melancholy  and  low  spirits 
are  half  my  disease  Guess  then  my  horrors  since  this 
business  began.  If  I  had  it  settled  I  would  be,  I  think, 
quite  well  in  a  manner.  O,  do  not  disappoint  me.  But 
strong  necessity's  curst  command.*  I  nave  been  think- 
ing over  my  brother's  affairs,  and  I  fear  I  must  cut  him 
up,  but  on  this  I  will  correspond  at  another  time,  par- 
ticularly as  I  shall your  advice.     Forgive  me  for 

once  more  mention — by  return  of  post  save  me  from  the 
horrors  of  a  jail. 

My  compliments  to  my  friend  James,  and  to  all  the 
rest.     I  do  not  know  what  I  have  written,  the  subject  is 
so  horrible  I  dare  not  look  it  over  again.     Farewell, 
,  Robert  Burns. 

July  12,  Tewsday. 

The  letter  to  John  Tennent  Auchenbey,  thanking  him 
for  his  kind  present  of  a  cask  of  whiskey,  and  praising 
its  strength  and  good  quality,  betrayed  the  poet's  great 
weakness.     It  is  dated  Eltenland.  December  22,  1788. 

Another  characteristic  letter  in  a  different  strain,  is 
worth  quoting  in  full : 

To  Mrs.  Dunlop, 

Of  Dunlop. 

I  have  received  twins,  dear  madam,  more  than  once, 
but  scarcely  ever  with  more  pleasure  than  when  I  re- 
ceived yours  of  the  1 2th  instant.  To  make  myself  un- 
derstood, I  had  wrote  to  Mr.  Graham  inclosing  my  poem 
addressed  to  him,  and  the  same  post  that  favored  me 
with  yours  brought  me  an  answer  from  him.  It  was 
dated  the  very  day  he  had  received  mine,  and  I  am 
quite  at  a  loss  to  say  whether  it  was  more  polite  or  kind. 
Your  criticisms,  my  honored  benefactress,  are  truly  the . 
work  of  a  friend.  They  are  not  the  blasting  depreda- 
tions of  a  canker-toothed  caterpillar  critic,  nor  are  they 
fair  statements  of  cold  impartiality  balancing  with  un- 
feeling exactitude  the  pro  and  con  of  an  author's  merits  ; 
they  are  the  judicious  observations  of  animated  friend- 
ship selecting  the  beauties  of  the  pen.      I  have  just 


130  THE  BURNS  MONUMENT. 

arrived  from  Nithsdale  and  will  be  here  a  fortnight.  I 
was  on  horseback  this  morning  (for  between  my  wife 
and  my  farm  is  just  forty-six  miles)  by  three  o'clock. 
As  I  jogged  on  in  the  dark  I  was  taken  with  a  poetic  fit 

as  follows:    Mrs.  T. ,  of  C .      Lamentations  for 

the  death  of  her  son,  an  uncommonly  promising  youth 
of  eighteen  or  nineteen  years  of  age  : 

Fate  gave  the  wound — the  arrow  sped 
And  pierced  my  darling's  heart. 

You  will  not  send  me  your  poetic  rambles,  but  you  see 
I  am  no  niggard  of  mine.  I  am  ^ure  your  impromptus 
gave  me  double  pleasure.  Whkt  falls  from  your  pen 
can  be  neither  uninteresting  in  itself  nor  indifferent  to 
me.  The  one  fault  you  find  is  just,  but  I  cannot  please 
myself  in  an  emendation. 

I  will  pay  the  sapient-potent  George  [reference  to 
postage]  most  cheerfully  to  hear»from  you  ere  I  leave 
Ayrshire.  I  have  the  honor  to  be,  dear  madam,  your 
much  obliged,  humble  servant,  Robert  Burns. 

Among  other  relics  are  the  lease  or  tack  of  the  farm 
of  Ellesland  taken  from  Patrick  Miller  of  Dalswinton. 
the  gentleman  who  launched  the  first  steamboat  in  the 
world  in  1788  ;  the  manuscript  of  a  poem,  "  The  Kirk's 
Alarm  ;  "  excise  return  by  the  poet  from  Dumfries  dis- 
trict, 1794;  manuscript  poems  by  Clarinda,  "Autumn 
of  Life  ;  "  portion  of  manuscript  of  Kilmarnock  edition, 
1786;  portraits  of  the  poet  by  Nasmyth,  Skewing  and 
Taylor.  Relics  of  the  poet's  personal  property  are  not 
wanting.  There  is  a  wooden  trencher  or  cheese  plate 
from  Possie  Nancy's,  where  Burns  wrote  "The  Jolly 
Beggars  ; "  a  wine  glass  used  by  the  poet ;  an  oak 
mallet  made  from  the  rafter  of  Alloway's  auld  haunted 
kirk  and  used  by  Burns  as  deputy  master  of  the  Tar- 
bolton  Mason  Lodge,  1794;  a  sword  cane  used  by  him 
while  in  the  excise,  and  his  favorite  knife  and  fork. 
There  is  also  a  curious  delft  jug  which  belonged  to  Mrs. 
Bruce,  of  Clackmanan,  a  friend  of  Burns.  She  was  a 
descendant  of  Robert  Bruce,  King  of  Scotland,  and  on 
Burns's  last  visit  she  knighted  him  with  an  old  sword 


THE  BURNS  MONUMENT.  181 

that  belonged  to  the  king;  saying  "she  had  as  much 
right  to  do  so  as  any  other  body." 

Others  matters  of  interest  to  those  who  love  the  poet 
are  a  snuflf-box  made  from  the  printing  press  at  which 
his  first  edition  of  poems  was  printed  in  Kilmarnock, 
1786  ;  a  sneeshan  mull,  or  snuff  horn,  which  belonged  to 
Highland  Mary's  father,  1758 ;  Indian  china  cup  and 
saucer  that  belonged  to  Miss  Alexander,  the  bonny  lass 
of  Balochmyll ;  lock  of  hair  which  belonged  to  Miss 
Lorimer,  the  lassie  wi'  the  tent  white  locks  ;  curious 
round  oak  silver-mounted  snuff-box  used  by  the  poet, 
and  presented  to  his  trusty  friend,  George  Richmond, 
1788  ;  an  apple  presented  by  the  poet  to  his  brother 
Gilbert's  wife  as  a  wedding  gfift. 

Among  the  relics  preserved  in  frames  and  hung  on 
the  walls  is  the  printed  newspaper  report  of  Burns's 
death.  This  occurred  at  Dumfries,  July  21,  1796,  and 
the  report  appeared  in  the  London  Herald  of  July  27 — 
nearly  one  week  after.  The  London  Herald oi  that  day 
was  a  very  small  sheet,  about  fifteen  inches  long  and 
only  four  columns  wide,  price  fourpence  halfpenny  a 
copy.  The  obituary  notice  is  unique,  and  is  worth  re- 
producing to-day  : 

DEATH  OF"   MR.   ROBERT   BURNS, 
THE   CELEBRATED   POET. 

"  On  the  2 1st  instant  died  at  Dumfries,  after  a  linger- 
ing illness,  the  celebrated  Robert  Burns.  His  poetical 
compositions,  distinguished  equally  by  the  force  of 
native  humor,  by  the  warmth  and  tenderness  of  passion, 
and  by  the  glowing  touches  of  a  descriptive  pencil,  will 
remain  a  lasting  monument  of  the  vigor  and  versatility 
of  a  mind,  guided  only  by  the  light  of  nature  and  the 
inspirations  of  genius.  The  public,  to  whose  amusement 
he  so  largely  contributed,  will  learn  with  regret  that 
the  last  months  of  his  short  life  were  spent  in  sickness 
and  indigence,  and  his  widow  with  five  infant  children, 
and"  in  the  hourly  expectation  of  a  sixth,  is  now  left 
without  any  resource  but  what  she  may  hope  from  the 
regard  due  to  the  memory  of  her  husband. " 


Ifife  THE  BURNS  MONUMENT. 

Monuments,  however,  are  not  Edinburgh's  only  at- 
tractions, but  do  not  count  on  seeing  the  sights  there  on 
Sunday.  The  day  is  closely  and  strictly  observed. 
London  is  surely  quiet  enough  on  a  Sunday,  but  it  is 
gayety  itself  when  compared  with  the  capital  of  Scot- 
land. Not  a  shop  is  open  ;  even  the  drug  shops  are 
open  only  during  two  hours.  Everything  is  shut  as 
tight  as  a  drum  in  Edinburgh  except  the  churches,  and 
to  these  you  must  either  walk  or  hire  a  carriage,  for  not 
a  wheel  of  an  omnibus  or  car  t^rns  on  Sunday. 


THE  BURNS  MONUMENT. 


CROSSING  THE  CHANNEL 


There  are  many  ways  of  "crossing"  between  the 
Continent  and  the  Enghsh  coast,  or  vice  versa.  The 
best  steamers  between  England  and  Holland  are  those 
which  go  from  Rotterdam  to  Harwich.  Harwich  (An- 
glice,  Harridge)  is  about  a  two  hours'  run  up  to  London. 
I  have  tried  the  different  ways  of  crossing  from  the 
French  coast  to  England — via  Newhaven  and  Dieppe, 
Folkstone  and  Boulogne,  and  Calais  and  Dover.  The 
last  route  is  by  far  the  best.  It  would  be  preferred 
over  all  others,  if  for  only  one  reason,  because  it  is  the 
shortest,  the  English  Channel  being  "disagreeable"  at 
least  one  half  the  year.  The  Calais  and  Dover  boats 
are  advertised  to  make  the  trip  between  the  two  points 
' '  in  seventy  minutes, "  and  they  do  actually  make  it  in 
one  hour  and  a  quarter.  The  other  routes  are  much 
longer.  No  small  craft  that  ply  on  the  English  waters 
are  as  beautiful  in  their  appointments  as  our  Hudson 
river  boats,  or  those  for  instance  of  the  Fall  River  line, 
but  they  are  staunch  and  swift,  and  they  are  manned  by 
as  brave  a  set  of  seamen  as  ever  trod  a  deck.  The 
English  boats  are  proof  against  wind  and  wave,  the 
only  danger  being  from  fire  or  fog,  but  as  they  are 
officered  by  skillful  and  experienced  navigators,  and 
are  very  carefully  handled,  the  danger  is  reduced  to  a 
minimum. 

188 


PARIS  HOTELS. 


Paris  is  not  in  the  least  behind  other  cities  in  the 
number  of  its  hotels  nor  in  the  variety  of  accommoda- 
tions offered.  Your  choice  must  depend  first  upon  the 
length  of  your  purse  ;  second,  upon  the  length  of  your 
stay  ;  third,  the  purpose  of  your  visit.  The  number  in 
the  party  and  their  individual  tastes  and  requirements 
must  also  be  taken  into  account. 

I  have  not  passed  near  so  much  time  in  Paris  as  in 
London.  The  most  I  can  do  is  to  suggest  some  of  the 
choicest  hotels  and  pensions  with  which  I  am  acquainted, 
giving  their  rates  and  distinctive  features. 

For  information  as  to  Where  to  Dine  in  Paris  I  must 
refer  the  reader  to  a  chapter  further  on,  entitled  "  The 
Restaurants  of  Paris,"  by  the  late  writer  and  con- 
noisseur in  many  arts,  Mr.  Theodore  Child.  It  first 
appeared  in  a  book  entitled  "  Living  Paris,"  which  was 
published  in  London  four  years  ago  by  Ward  &  Dow- 
ney, and  is  the  most  complete  and  comprehensive  Guide 
to  Paris  I  have  ever  seen. 


THE  GRAND  HOTEL. 


The  Grand  Hotel  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  ex- 
pensive. It  is  grand  in  size  ;  grand  in  appointments.  It 
is  not  a  cheap  house  in  any  sense  of  that  term,  and  pos- 
sibly for  that  reason  is  largely  patronized  by  Americans. 
The  building  occupies  a  square  block  facing  that  mag- 
nificent street,    Avenue  de  1'  Opera,  diagonally  across 

184 


PARIS  HOTELS.  135 

from  the  Grand  Opera  House.  It  encloses  a  large  court- 
yard with  fountains  and  parterres.  The  caves  of  the 
Grand  are  ranked  as  one  of  the  sights  of  Paris  ;  they  are 
stocked  with  the  choicest  of  wines.  Rooms  from  six 
francs  per  day  ;  breakfast,  two  francs  ;  luncheon,  five 
francs  ;  table  d'hote  dinner,  eight  francs  with  wine. 
Board  and  lodging  complete  (American  plan),  from 
twenty  francs  per  day. 


HOTEL  CONTINENTAL. 


The  Continental,  on  the  comer  of  the  rue  de  Rivoli 
and  rue  Castiglione,  is  opposite  the  gardens  of  the 
Tuileries.  Near  by  are  Hotel  des  Invalides,  the  Madel- 
eine, the  Eiffel  Tower  and  other  interesting  buildings. 
It  is  large  and  elegant — grander  than  the  Grand.  The 
grounds,  with  the  structure  and  furnishing  are  said  to 
have  cost  some  millions  of  francs. 

The  rates  at  the  Continental  are  a  little  lower  than  at 
the  Grand.  They  range  all  the  way  from  five  francs  to 
thirty-five  francs  per  day  for  room  ;  lights  and  attend- 
ance extra.  Breakfast  of  coffee,  chocolate  or  tea  with 
rolls,  from  one  to  two  francs ;  breakfast  proper,  or  de- 
jeuner d,  la  fourchette,  five  francs,  wine  and  coffee  in- 
cluded. Table  d'hote  dinner,  seven  francs.  At  many 
Paris  hotels  wine  is  included  in  the  charge  for  dinner, 
but  at  the  Continental  on  Sundays,  champagne  as  well 
as  vin  ordinaire  is  served  free,  but  not,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  latter,  in  unlimited  quantity. 


HOTEL  MEURICE. 


Smaller  than  these  two  hotels  and  for  that  reason 
thought  by  some  to  be  more  select  is  the  Hotel  Meurice, 
in  rue  de  Rivoli.     It  is  near  rue  Castiglione  and  oppo- 


136  PARIS  HOTELS. 

site  the  Tuileries  gardens,  altogether  a  beautiful  loca- 
tion. Issuing  from  the  handsome  courtyard  and  turning 
to  the  left,  a  few  minutes  walk  brings  you  to  the  Palais 
Royal  and  the  Louvre  galleries  ;  or  turning  to  the  right  a 
few  steps  bring  you  past  the  hotel  Continental,  to  Place 
de  la  Concorde  and  the  Champs  Elysees.  It  may  seem 
strange  to  those  who  have  not  lived  in  continental 
hotels,  to  note  that  the  hotel  Meurice '  is  scrupulously 
clean.  You  observe  this  in  its  beautiful  courtyard,  in 
its  handsome  dining-room  and  in  the  neatly  kept  bed- 
rooms. •' 

The  hotel  is  patronized  by  leading  New  York  families 
and  by  the  best  English  society,  and  it  ranks  as  does 
the  Brunswick  or  the  Victoria  in  New  York.  The  cuisitie 
of  the  house  is  famous  and  its  cellars  contain  rare  wines. 
Hotel  Meurice  was  established  in  1815  and  its  present 
proprietor  has  kept  it  for  more  than  thirty  years.  If 
your  stay  in  Paris  is  to  cover  a  week  or  more,  you— 
and  especially  the  ladies  of  your  party — will  find  this 
hotel  a  thoroughly  agreeable  place  of  sojourn  ;  Bae- 
deker counsels  avoiding  the  largest  hotels  if  you  are 
accompanied  by  ladies.  Hotel  Meurice  has  electric 
light,  and  new  plumbing  was  put  in  a  few  years  ago. 
It  accommodates  two  hundred  guests.  Single  rooms 
from  five  francs  per  day  ;  apartments  from  fifteen  to 
one  hundred  francs.  Table  d'hote  dinner,  at  six  P.M., 
six  francs.  Proprietor,  H.  Scheurich  ;  address,  228  rue 
de  Rivoli. 


HOTEL  CHATHAM. 


Hotel  Chatham  is  justly  famed  as  one  of  the  most  ele- 
gantly appointed  of  Paris  hotels.  I  have  known  it  for 
twenty  years,  and  for  twenty-five  years  it  has  been  the 


PARIS  HOTELS.  137 

temporary  home  of  travellers  of  all  nations, — those  who 
demand  the  best  hotel  accommodations,  and  for  which 
yon  pay  only  a  moderate  price.  Single  rooms  from  five 
francs  per  day  ;  luncheon,  four  francs ;  table  d'hote 
dinner,  six  francs.  Hotel  Chatham  occupies  a  central 
location,  near  the  Opera,  rue  de  la  Paix,  the  theatres, 
aad  the  best  shopping  streets.  The  first  feature  of  the 
Hotel  Chatham  that  attracts  attention  is  the  large,  light, 
and  spacious  courtyard,  fifty  by  one  hundred  feet.  It 
makes  an  impression  that  gains  in  favor  when  you  see 
the  apartments.  The  grand  salon,  the  reading-room  and 
cafe  look  out  upon  this  courtyard,  which  is  embellished 
with  flowers. 

The  sleeping  apartments  are  beautifully  furnished, 
have  plenty  of  light  and  good  ventilation.  There  are 
elegant  suites,  also  choice  single  and  double  rooms. 
The  decorations  are  in  good  taste.  In  the  best  apart- 
ments the  walls  are  not  hung  with  paper,  but  are  cov- 
ered with  stuffs — a  mixture  of  worsted  and  soft  silks. 
Hot  and  cold  water  on  every  floor.  Two  features  especi- 
ally commend  themselves  to  those  who  are  acquainted 
with  foreign  hotels  ;  there  are  two  Otis  elevators,  and 
the  house  is  lighted  throughout  by  electricity — shed- 
ding a  light  in  the  rooms,  not  of  one  bougie,  but  of 
twenty.  The  cuisine  represents  the  perfection  of  the 
culinary  art,  and  the  wine-cellars  are  celebrated  for 
their  famous  vintages. 

The  Hotel  Chatham  is  the  home  of  the  best  people 
and  many  Americans  annually  seek  its  hospitality.  The 
Harpers,  for  instance,  members  of  the  great  publishing 
house,  are  among  its  regular  guests.  The  present  pro- 
prietor is  M.  H.  Holzschuch,  son  of  the  late  owner, 
under  whom  the  house  acc[uired  its  wide  fame.  Hotel 
Chatham  is  at  17  and  19  rue  Daunou,  between  rue  de 
la  Paix  and  Boulevard  des  Capucines. 


138  PARIS  HOTELS. 

HOTEL  BINDA. 


Everybody  in  Paris  knows  the  Hotel  Binda,  and  it  is 
known  by  a  great  many  people  who  have  never  been  in 
Paris.  With  New  Yorkers  the  house  is  a  favorite  be- 
cause it  is  kept  by  Mr.  Charles  Binda  who  for  years  was 
manager  of  Delmonico's,  and  this  settles  at  once  and 
satisfactorily  the  important  question  of  cuisine.  The 
house  was  opened  in  1878.  It  is  solidly  built  of  stone, 
five  stories  high,  and  is  an  imposing  structure.  It  stands 
in  rue  de  I'Echelle,  on  a  corner  of  the  avenue  de  I'Opera, 
the  principal  business  street  of  Paris,  and  probably  the 
handsomest  shopping  street  in  the  world.  It  is  most  con- 
veniently located  for  the  principal  places  of  interest— 
the  Grand  Opera,  Palais  Royal,  the  Louvre  galleries, 
etc.  One  minute's  walk  brings  you  to  the  rue  de  Rivoli, 
that  wide  open  street,  one  side  of  which  is  flanked  by 
the  open  and  beautiful  gardens  of  the  Tuileries. 

If  in  the  heat  of  a  summer  day  in  walking  to  Place 
Vendome  or  to  the  Champs  Elysees,  you  wish  to  avoid 
sunny  rue  de  Rivoli,  shade  is  at  your  very  door  in  the 
narrow  but  picturesque  rue  St.  Honore,  which,  with  its 
little  shops,  its  hotels,  old  churches,  etc.,  is  a  feature 
of  outdoor  life  in  Paris. 

The  Grand  Opera  is  at  the  other  end  of  the  Avenue 
de  rOpera,  a  short  walk.  But  omnibuses  pass  the  door, 
by  which  you  can  reach  any  part  of  Paris  at  the  expense 
of  a  few  sous.  And,  for  that  matter,  it  is  only  a  thirty- 
cent  cab  fare  to  the  Grand  Opera,  to  the  offices  of  the 
American  Minister,  Whitelaw  Reid,  in  Avenue  Hoche,  or 
to  the  Anglo-American  Bank  on  the  corner  of  Chaussee 
d' Antin  and  rue  Meyerbeer.  Cocker  will  go  fast  enough 
if  by  the  course  and  slow  enough  ftoo  slow)  if  by  the 
hour. 

Instead  of  a  courtyard  such  as  many  hotels  in  Paris 
have,  and  which  in  some  cases  are  useless,  the  space  on 


Paris  hotels.  i89 

the  ground  floor  is  used  by  the  Binda  for  a  grand,  glass- 
enclosed  reception  and  reading-room,  beautifully  lighted 
by  day  and  by  night.  There  is  also  a  grand  drawing- 
room  and  a  smoking-room,  which  unlike  the  dingy 
rooms  turned  over  to  the  use  of  men  in  some  English 
hotels  is,  in  the  Binda,  a  very  bright  and  attractive 
apartment. 

All  the  apartments  are  comfortably  and  tastefully 
furnished,  but  some  of  the  rooms  are  furnished  in  pala- 
tial style.  There  are  baths  on  every  floor  and  some 
rooms  have  running  water.  Of  course  there  are  electric 
lights  and  an  ascenseur,  Anglice  "lift."  But  for  all  its 
grandeur,  one  may  Uve  at  the  Binda  at  moderate  cost. 

If  you  know  about  how  wide  you  wish  to  open  your 
purse  in  selecting  apartments  you  can  tell  as  precisely 
as  you  could  in  an  American  hotel  how  much  your  bill 
will  amount  to  for  a  stay  of  five  days  or  five  weeks.  Single 
rooms  may  be  had  from  seven  to  twelve  francs  per  day  ; 
double  rooms  from  fourteen  to  thirty  francs.  Special 
rates,  lower  than  these,  are  made  to  guests  remaining  a 
length  of  time.  Here  is  the  tariff  for  the  dining-room  : 
Plain  breakfast  (tea  or  chocolate)  if.  50c.,  about  30 
cents  ;  table  d'hote  dinner,  served  at  separate  tables,  6f . , 
servant's  board  6f.  per  day.  No  charge  is  made  for  at- 
tendance. 

That  Charles  Binda  is  proprietor  is  guarantee  that 
the  table  is  equal  to  the  Windsor  in  New  York,  or 
the  Albemarle  in  London,  and  these  satisfy  the  most 
fastidious.  Mr.  Binda  is  famous  for  his  cuisine,  but  he 
prides  himself  most  upon  the  quality  of  his  guests. 
He  demands  that  above  and  beyond  everything  else 
his  house  shall  be  select,  and  it  is  so  in  the  fullest 
sense.  Mail  address.  No.  11  rue  de  I'Echelle.  Cable, 
"  Binda  :  Paris." 


140  PARIS  HOTELS. 

HOTEL  METROPOLE. 


There  are  several  comparatively  small  but  decidedly 
pleasant  hotels  in  rue  Castiglione — Hotel  Liverpool, 
Hotel  Balmoral  and  Hotel  Metropole.  The  last-named 
is  especially  to  be  commended  for  its  choice  location, 
the  comfort  and  cleanliness  of  its  rooms,  its  appetizing 
cuisine,  and  its  remarkably  moderate  charges.  It  is  in 
rue  Castiglione,  directly  opposite  the  Continental  ;  two 
blocks  one  way  from  the  Column  Vendome,  two  blocks 
from  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  near  the  Champs 
Elysees,  and  only  a  few  hundred  feet  from  the  beautiful 
gardens  of- the  Tuileries. 

Like  the  majority  of  Paris  hotels,  the  Metropole 
is  entered  by  a  court-yard,  but  unlike  some  of  them, 
the  ventilation  and  lighting  of  the  house  are  good.  It 
has  ample  room  for  more  than  one  hundred  guests,  and 
they  can  be  made  very  comfortable. 

The  house  is  kept  on  the  American  as  well  as  on  the 
European  plan.  If  you  adopt  the  system  which  prevails 
abroad,  you  may  hire  a  single  room  as  low  as  four 
francs  per  day,  or  a  double  room  for  seven  francs  per 
day.  Breakfast,  three  francs  ;  luncheon,  four  francs ; 
table  d'hote  dinner,  five  francs.  This  figure  includes 
good  wine  in  quantum  sufficit,  as  a  medical  man  might 
say.  As  at  nearly  all  Continental  hotels,  "service"'  is 
charged.  In  this  instance  it  is  one  franc  per  day  ;  and 
you  pay  for  lights — item  seventy-five  centimes,  about 
fifteen  cents. 

But  if  you  wish  to  be  relieved  of  all  this  detail  and 
save  the  bother  of  reckoning,  you  can  stay  at  the 
Metropole  and  your  whole  bill  per  day  for  board,  lodging, 
lights,  wine,  etc.,  will  be  the  moderate  sum  of  fifteen 
francs  (three  dollars),  which,  considering  the  excellent 
table  and  the  attention  you  receive,  is  a  low  rate. 

If  you  desire  to  mix  with  an  ultra-fashionable  set,  the 
Bristol  is  your  house  ;    if  you  want  to  see  and  be  with 


PARIS  HOTELS.  .141 

Americans  only,  then  select  the  Grand.  The  Continen- 
tal is  the  place  for  those  who  would  feast  their  eyes  on 
palatial  salons  ;  at  the  Metropole  you  will  get  into  the 
company  of  good  people  from  different  countries,  you 
can  be  quiet  and  comfortable  and  made  to  feel  at  home, 
as  is  to  be  expected  in  a  smaller  house.  Moreover,  your 
purse  will  be  lightly  drawn  upon  in  accordance  with  the 
figures  given  above.  Proprietor,  X.  Silvani  ;  address. 
No.  6  rue  Castiglione. 

Hotel  de  Lille  et  d'  Albion,  in  rue  St.  Honore,  is 
not  a  very  large  house,  but  it  is  ranked  among  the  best, 
although  its  charges  art;  quite  moderate.  It  has  baths, 
lift,  electric  light  and  English  billiard  tables,  its  modem 
contrivances  including  telephonic  communication  with 
the  leading  European  cities.  The  sanitary  arrangements 
are  said  to  be  perfect.  The  location  is  central  for  shop- 
ping, for  places  of  amusement  and  points  of  interest, 
being  near  Place  Vendome,  Tuileries  Gardens  and  the 
Opera.  Mail  address,  223  rue  St.  Honore  ;  telegraph 
address,  Lillalbion,  Paris. 

Hotel  Bristol  and  Hotel  du  Rhin  both  front  on  the 
Place  Vendome  ;  you  can't  miss  them  ;  they  are  near 
the  tall  and  graceful  Column  Vendome  which  pierces 
the  sky  from  the  centre  of  the  square.  There  is  no 
question  as  to  the  excellence  of  either  of  these  houses. 
Both  are  patronized  by  a  select  class  of  patrons ;  the 
former  is  the  home  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  when  he 
visits  Paris. 

Hotel  Liverpool  is  patronized  by  the  Astors.  To 
Americans  this  information  conveys  more  than  could  be 
detailed  in  a  whole  page  of  description.  It  is  situated 
at  1 1  rue  Castiglione,  a  wide  and  fashionable  thorough- 
fare leading  from  Place  Vendome  to  the  Tuileries  Gar- 
dens. The  house  was  recently  newly  fitted  up  and  has 
a  hydraulic  lift.  There  are  large  apartments  for  fami- 
lies making  a  more  or  less  prolonged  stay  ;  smaller 
apartments  for  transient  guests. 


142  PARIS  HOTELS. 

Hotel  de  l'Athienee. — Of  hotels  just  as  select  as  any 
of  those  mentioned,  there  are  a  score  or  more.  Among 
them  may  be  mentioned  the  Hotel  de  1' Athenee,  i  s  rue 
Scribe.  It  was  recently  enlarged,  the  whole  of  the 
Theatre  de  I'Athenee  having  been  added,  and  the  former, 
dining-room  is  now  converted  into  a  reading  room.  There 
are  two  bath-rooms  on  each  floor.  The  appointments 
include  a  parlor,  a  reading  room,  a  restaurant  a  la  carte, 
and  two  private  dining-rooms.  There  are  1 80  rooms  in  all, 
which  rent  from  four  francs  to  twenty  francs  a  day,  but 
there  are  not  very  many  rooms  in  the  house  at  four  francs. 

Hotel  Campbell. — The  Hotel  Campbell,  at  61  and  63 
Avenue  de  Friedland,  has  one  of  the  best  sites  in  Paris 
for  a  family  house.  It  stands  on  the  highest  ground, 
the  location  being  healthy,  beautiful,  select  and  fashion- 
able— a  few  steps  from  the  Champs  Elysees  and  the  Arc 
de  Triomphe.  The  house  is  six  stories  high,  built  of 
stone,  and  has  an  imposing  front,  standing  on  the  corner 
of  rue  Tilsit  and  avenue  de  Friedland,  a  wide  and  grand 
boulevard.  The  salon  is  richly  furnished.  There  is  a 
new  dining-room  covered  with  glass  and  flooded  with 
light.  House  heated  by  steam  ;  lift,  electric  light,  all 
modern  contrivances.  Mr.  Arthur  Geissler,  the  present 
proprietor,  took  the  house  about  three  years  ago,  since 
which  time  he  has  enlarged  it,  making  also  great 
changes  and  improvements.  Mr.  Geissler 's  native 
tongue  is  German,  but  he  converses  easily  in  English, 
speaks  Italian  and,  of  course,  French.  There  are 
accommodations  for  one  hundred  guests  at  from  twelve 
and  a  half  francs  per  day  for  room  and  three  meals, 
everything  included  but  wine  and  lights.  Still  more 
moderate  terms  to  families  who  make  a  protracted  stay. 
Address  letters  and  telegrams  "Hotel  Campbell,  Paris." 

Hotel  de  Castille. — This  is  at  No.  37  rue  Cambon,  a 
narrow,  but  pleasant  street  running  off  from  the  Boule- 
vard des  Italiens,  and  leading  to  Place  Vendome,  a  con- 
venient place  for  those  who  desire  to  be  near  shopping 


PARIS  HOTELS.  143 

and  amusement  centres.  From  above  the  ground  floor 
there  is  a  pleasing  front  outlook*  the  hotel  standing 
opposite  the  gardens  attached  to  the  residence  of  the 
Minister  of  Justice.  The  public  rooms,  on  the  first  floor, 
are  very  pretty  ;  the  bedrooms  have  high  ceilings  and 
are  richly  furnished,  many  having  pictures  in  oil  on  the 
.  walls.  Modem  conveniences — electric  light,  lift,  baths, 
hot  and  cold  water  on  every  floor.  One  hundred  and 
fifty  guests  accommodated.  There  is  a  large  and' hand- 
some courtyard  in  which,  during  warm  weather,  meals 
are  served,  al  fresco,  under  a  decorated  canopy.  The 
proprietor  of  Hotel  Castille,  James  F.  Wullschleger,  is  a 
young  Swiss.  He  speaks  German  fluently,  as  well  as 
Italian,  and  Americans  will  not  find  him  at  all  deficient 
in  the  English  tongue.  Breakfast,  one  and  a  half  francs  ; 
luncheon,  four  francs ;  dinner,  five  francs,  wine  not  in- 
cluded. Mail  and  cable  address,  "  Hotel  Castille,  Paris." 
Hotel  La  Tremoillk. — The  Hotel  Tremoille  (for- 
merly Hotel  Pension  Lafond)  is  in  rue  de  la  Tremoille, 
a  quiet,  select  and  beautiful  location,  on  the  corner  of 
rue  de  la  Tremoille  and  rue  Boccador.  The  neighbor- 
hood is  known  as  the  Quartier  Marboeuf-Champs 
Elysees,  and  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  is  but  a  few  steps 
distant.  The  house  has  ascenseur,  baths  and  water  on 
every  floor  ;  the  salon  is  handsome,  and  the  bed-rooms 
are  beautifully  furnished.  Accommodation  for  one 
hundred  guests.  Single  rooms  from  six  to  ten  francs 
per  day  ;  room  for  two  persons  from  eight  to  twelve 
francs  per  day.  Breakfast  from  two  to  four  francs  ; 
luncheon,  from  two  to  four  francs  ;  seven  o'clock  din- 
ner, five  francs,  wine  not  included.  Arrangements  for 
complete  board  (three  meals),  rooms,  service,  every- 
thing included,  from  ten  to  fifteen  francs  per  day  for 
one  person.  Board  for  children  under  seven,  six  francs 
per  day.  The  house  has  not  changed  proprietors  for 
the  past  six  years.  Mail  address,  Madame  Lafond,  14 
rue  de  la  Tremoille  :  cable.  Lafhotel,  Paris. 


PENSIONS  OF  THE   FIRST  CLASS. 


But  you  are  not  forced  to  patronize  any  hotel,  large 
or  small  ;  there  are  many  very  delightful  pensions  or 
boarding  houses  in  Paris.  These  some  people  prefer,  if 
their  party  includes  ladies,  or  if  they  intend  to  make  a 
protracted  stay.  A  few  of  th^se  pensions  are  presided 
over  by  American  women. 

The  Van  Pelt  Pension  at  69  Boulevard  St.  Michel  is 
kept  by  Mrs.  E.  L.  Van  Pelt,  a  New  Orleans  woman 
who  took  with  her  to  Paris  the  best  American  refer- 
ences. This  place  has  some  features  which  commend 
it  to  the  stranger  in  Paris.  Its  location,  facing  the 
Luxembourg  Gardens,  is  near  the  famous  art  schools 
and  the  Sorbonne,  where  free  lectures  are  given,  thus 
making  this  a  desirable  residence  for  students.  It  is 
across  the  Seine,  and  yet  within  comparatively  easy 
access  by  omnibus,  cab  or  train  to  all  parts  of  Paris  and 
environs.  The  house  stands  on  a  comer,  and  all  the 
rooms  are  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air.  Mrs.  Van  Pelt 
has  accommodation  for  thirty  guests.  Rates  from  $2. 50 
to  $3  per  day,  according  to  season  and  length  of  stay. 
Average  about  seventy-five  francs  per  week  ;  no  wine. 

American  Family  Home. — This  term  is  appropriately 
applied  to  the  pension  de  famille  presided  over  by  a 
young  French  widow,  whose  personal  beauty  and  grace 
of  manner  are  more  than  marked.  Reference  is  made  to 
Madame  Veuve  Leon  Glatz,  who  is  assisted  in  her  duties 
by  her  sister.  Both  of  them  speak  English  with  a  pretty 
and  piquant  accent.  The  Glatz  pension  is  in  rue  de 
Clichy,  five  minutes  distant  from  St.  Lazare  Station  and 
Park  Monceau  ;  ten  minutes  from  la  Madeleine  and  the 
Opera.     It  was  built  in  1885  and  is  sanitarily  correct ; 

144 


PENSIONS  OF  THE  FIRST  CLASS.  146 

supplied  with  new  spring  water  from  the  new  water 
works  of  Paris.  There  is  a  really  grand  salon  in  which 
musicales  are  gfiven  weekly.  In  the  rear  of  this  is  a  large 
and  handsome  garden,  neatly  kept — a  very  pretty  loung- 
ing place  on  summer  evenings.  There  are  baths  in  the 
hoiise,  the  bedrooms  are  nicely  furnished,  the  service  is 
good,  and  last,  and  by  no  means  least  worthy  of  note, 
is  the  table,  which  is  liberally  supplied  ;  the  best  as  to 
quality.  But  Madame  Glatz  at  present  has  only  room 
for  thirty  guests  and  her  house  is  in  such  demand  that 
you  must  engage  rooms  months,  or  at  least  weeks,  in 
advance.  Terms,  eight  to  fourteen  francs  per  day, 
which  is  the  full  charge  ;  no  extras,  except,  possibly,  for 
lights.  This  is  a  favorite  place  with  Americans  of 
refinement ;  others  are  not  admitted  to  Madame  Glatz's 
charming  family  circle.     Address,  45  rue  de  Clichy. 

The  Powers  Pension. — One  of  the  most  desirable 
pensions  in  Paris,  especially  desirable  for  Americans,  is 
kept  not  by  a  "charming  Frenchwoman,"  nor  by  a 
"hearty"  Britisher,  but  by  a  couple  of  cultivated,  good 
Americans,  well-known  in  New  York — Mr.  and  Mrs.  J. 
G.  Powers,  Jr.  The  house  is  in  a  high  and  delightful 
location,  in  the  American  quarter,  69  Avenue  d'Antin, 
near  the  Champs  Elysees.  Mrs.  Powers  claims  that  it 
is  "the  most  elegant  and  comfortable  pension  in  Eu- 
rope, "  and  I,  who  have  had  some  experience  in  hotels  and 
pensions  of  the  first  rank,  do  not  contradict  the  state- 
ment. I  am  not  g^ven  to  using  the  adjective  "  elegant " 
too  freely,  but  elegant  and  tasteful  are  words  that  come 
to  mind  without  summoning,  in  speaking  of  the  Powers 
pension.  The  salon  is  a  beautiful  apartment ;  yes,  un- 
commonly beautiful.  It  is  on  Monday  evenings  more 
particularly  that  this  salon  looks  its  best,  when  the  re- 
ceptions are  held.  The  house,  it  is  well  worth  noting, 
has  been  enlarged  and  greatly  improved  since  last  year. 
Mrs.  Powers  has  the  entire  building,  now,  with  sixty 
bedrooms.     A  hydraulic  lift  has  been  put  in,  and  the 


146  PENSIONS  OF  THE  FIRST  CLASS. 

driveway  which  led  from  avenue  D'Antin  to  the  street 
parallel  with  it  at  the  back,  has  been  done  away  with. 
The  space  thus  gained  has  been  added  to  the  dining- 
room,  so  that  ninety  guests  can  now  sit  down  at  one 
time.  The  Powers  pcfision  is  a  select  family  home  in 
the  strictest  sense  of  the  term,  and  the  rates  for  board 
are  quite  reasonable  ;  pleasant  rooms  and  three  meals 
from  ten  francs  per  day.  Make  a  note  of  the  address — 
69  Avenue  d'Antin. 

A  Quiet  Pension  for  Americans. — Number  7  Ave- 
nue du  Trocadero  is  in  the  American  residential  quar- 
ter, three  minutes'  walk  from  the  American  Church. 
The  avenue  is  handsome  and  very  wide,  admitting  of 
an  equestrian  road  and  three  rows  of  fine  old  sycamores 
between  the  sidewalks.  No.  7  has  been  kept  as  Ql  pen- 
sion since  1872,  and  it  is  now  under  the  care  of  two 
"  good  Americans,"  who  have  had  it  for  six  years,  and 
who  have  won  the  patronage  of  a  quiet  class  of  English 
people,  the  aim  of  the  Seymours  being  to  make  it  an 
attractive,  comfortable.  Christian  home.  Forty-five 
guests  accommodated.  Trams  and  'buses  pass  the  door 
ever}?-  few  minutes  ;  boats,  within  two  minutes'  walk,  to 
all  parts  of  the  Seine.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Seymour  do  not 
pretend  to  keep  a  fashionable  or  an  elegant  house  for 
people  having  long  purses  and  luxurious  tastes,  but  the 
beds  are  good,  the  rooms  look  cozy  and  comfortable, 
and  they  claim  that  ' '  the  cuisine  is  of  the  best. "  The 
rates  at  \hSs  pension  are  low — from  $1. 50  to  $2. 50  per  day. 

Mrs.  Crowther's  is  a  select  pension  in  which  you  will 
be  entertained  if  you  are  willing  to  furnish  references. 
This  Mrs.  Crowther  will  most  gladly  do,  and  thus,  as  a 
former  famous  commander  of  the  New  York  Seventh 
Regiment  used  to  say,  "honors  are  divided."  I  am 
acquainted  with  Americans  who  have  stayed  with  Mrs. 
Crowther  for  months  at  a  time  so  pleased  were  they 
with  their  surroundings  and  their  host.  Although  select 
and  choice  and  nicely  situated,  near  the  niuch-talked-of- 


PENSIONS  OF  THE  FIRST  CLASS. 


147 


Arc  de  Triomphe,  the  rates  here  are  moderate — from 
ten  dollars  a  week.  Address,  Mrs.  Crowther,  No.  6  rue 
de  Belloy. 

Villeneuve's  House. — This  is  called  an  "American 
Pension,"  because  it  is  largely  patronized  by  Americans. 
The  house  has  what  so  many  New  Yorkers  demand — 
southern  exposure  ;  it  has  elevator,  baths,  etc.,  and  is 
tastefully  furnished.  The  location,  in  rue  Boccador,  is 
most  pleasant — in  the  Champs  Elysees  district.  Address 
No.  12  rue  Boccador. 

"A  French  Family  Home,"  where  French  lessons  are 
given,  is  Mme.  Tonnot's,  in  that  attractive  avenue 
named  for  Baron  Haussmann,  who  did  so  much  to  im- 
prove Paris  by  widening  the  streets  and  beautifying  the 
city.  Tonnot's  is  convenient  to  avenue  de  I'Opera,  the 
opera  house  and  the  shopping  district.  Address,  No. 
52  bis  Boulevard  Haussmann. 


THE  RESTAURANTS  OF  PARIS. 


BY   THEODORE   CHILD. 


In  order  to  anticipate  criticism,  and  to  avoid  disap- 
pointment, it  may  be  well  to  state  at  once  that  the  art 
of  cookery  is  in  a  terrible  state  of  decadence  in  Paris. 
The  men  of  the  present  generation  do  not  seem  to  have 
the  sentiment  of  the  table  ;  they  know  neither  its  varied 
resources  nor  its  infinite  refinements  ;  their  palates  are 
dull,  and  they  are  content  to  eat  rather  than  to  dine. 
This  decadence  may  be  remarked  both  in  private  and  in 
public  establishments.  The  gourmet  nowadays  is  a 
rarity,  and  a  man  of  thirty  years  of  age  who  knows  how 
to  order  a  dinner  is  a  still  greater  rarity.  One  might 
discover  many  causes  of  this  decline  of  a  delicate  art. 
The  conditions  of  contemporary  life,  the  hurry  and  un- 
rest of  modern  Paris,  doubtless  do  not  conduce  to  the 
appreciation  of  fine  cooking  ;  but  the  chief  cause  of  the 
decline  of  cookery  in  restaurants  is  the  development  of 
club  life.  The  men  of  fashion,  leisure,  or  wealth,  who 
formerly  would  have  lived  at  the  restaurants,  now  dine 
at  their  clubs  between  two  seances  at  the  baccarat  table, 
and  the  restaurants  have  thus  lost  that  nucleus  of  regu- 
lar and  fastidious  customers  which,  by  its  readiness  to 
criticise  and  appreciate,  obliged  and  encouraged  the 
chef  to  keep  up  the  traditions  of  the  dainty  palates  of 
the  past.  At  present  the  great  restaurants  of  Paris  de- 
pend for  support  as  much  on  foreigners  and  on  provin- 
cial people  as  on  resident  Parisians.  The  criticism  of 
their  cookery  is  less  constant  and  less  rigorous  ;  the  bills 

148 


THE  RESTAURANTS  OF  PARIS.  149 

of  fare  are  less  varied  than  they  were  of  old  ;  the  amour 
prop  re  of  the  cooks  is  less  ;  in  a  word,  cookery  has  be- 
come nowadays  more  an  industry  than  an  art.  Even  in 
the  most  famous  Parisian  restaurants  the  visitor  must 
not  expect  too  much  in  the  way  either  of  viands  or  of 
wines. 

In  certain  things,  again,  it  must  be  remembered  that 
the  Parisian  market  is  inferior  to  the  markets  of  almost 
any  town  in  England.  The  English  visitor  generally 
speaks  disparagingly  of  the  French  oyster,  for  instance, 
doubtless  because  he  is  not  accustomed  to  its  flavor,  and 
yet  I  know  many  connoisseurs  who  have  travelled  and 
dined  in  many  lands  who  maintain  that  of  all  oysters 
the  green  Marennes  {Afarennes  vertes)  are  the  most  deli- 
cate and  delicious.  The  lovers  of  comparisons  will  ask 
what  equivalents  the  French  have  for  real  turtle-soup, 
ox-tail,  mulligatawny,  and  pea-soup  with  a  sprinkling  of 
dried  mint  and  sippets.  Is  it  their  bisque  or  pur^e  of 
crayfish,  their  consomme'  de  volaille,  their  Saint  Germain. 
or  green  pea-soup,  their  Parmentier,  or  thick  potato- 
soup  ?  But  the  traveller  does  not  go  to  Paris  to  eat  the 
food  of  his  native  land,  but  rather  to  enjoy  the  particu- 
lar food  of  the  country.  Therefore,  he  must  not  expect 
to  get  fine  salmon,  or  cod-fish,  or  turbot,  or  even  mack- 
erel in  Paris.  The  city  is  too  far  away  from  the  sea  to 
have  good  salt-water  fish.  Salmon  in  Paris  is  dry  and 
of  poor  flavor  ;  fresh  cod-fish  is  rarely  seen,  and  the 
habits  of  the  restaurants  render  it  impossible  to  eat  such 
salmon  and  turbot  as  there  is  in  favorable  conditions. 
In  a  London  restaurant  a  whole  salmon  or  a  whole  tur- 
bot is  served  hot  like  the  joints  ;  in  a  Paris  restaurant, 
if  you  order  boiled  salmon  or  turbot,  the  cook  cuts  a 
slice  off  a  parboiled  fish,  puts  the  slice  in  the  pot,  and 
boils  it  up  for  you.  The  result  is  unsatisfactory.  As  a 
rule,  I  should  say,  in  a  Parisian  restaurant  eat  your 
salmon  and  your  turbot  cold,  and  prefer  to  both  a  red 
mullet  (rougct),  a  sole,  a  trout,  or  some  fresh- water  fish. 


150  THE  REST  A  URANTS  OF  PARIS. 

A  carefully  prepared  matelotte  d'anguilles,  which  is  not 
precisely  the  same  as  stewed  eels,  anA/riture  de  Seine, 
which  need  not  be  compared  to  whitebait,  are  both 
dishes  not  unworthy  of  the  attention  of  the  epicure. 

The  French  are  poor  roasters  ;  the  roast  beef  and 
roast  mutton  in  their  restaurants  cannot  for  a  moment 
be  compared  with  the  joints  at  Simpson's  or  Blanchard's 
in  London.  Pies  and  puddings  also  are  unknown  to  the 
French,  with  the  exception  oipdte's  de  foie  gras  and  game 
pies.  The  French,  again,  eat  their  game  very  fresh  and 
less  cooked  than  the  English.  Generally,  I  think  that 
the  raw  material^  of  the  Parisian  restaurant  cuisine  is 
inferior  to  that  of  English  restaurants ;  on  the  other 
hand,  with  the  limitations  referred  to  above,  particularly 
as  regards  roasting,  the  preparation  of  the  dishes  is 
superior,  and  in  the  first-class  restaurants  unique.  In 
the  preparation  and  variety  of  vegetables  the  French 
lead  the  world  ;  in  the  fabrication  of  sauces  they  are  un- 
surpassed ;  in  the  serving  and  arrangement  of  a  dinner 
they  leave  little  to  be  desired. 

But  where  can  one  go  to  dine  in  Paris  ?  Which  restau- 
rants are  the  best,  and  what  are  the  prices,  and  what  is 
one  to  order  ?  The  subject  is  delicate  and  even  danger- 
ous, for  although  the  critic  has  the  right  to  declare  a 
book  or  picture  bad,  pernicious,  or  abominable,  and  to 
pronounce  its  author  to  be  unworthy  of  public  atten- 
tion, he  dare  not  be  so  outspoken  about  the  wretchedest 
restaurant-keeper  who  is  licensed  to  poison  his  custom- 
ers. I  cannot  tell  you  that  such  and  such  a  restaurant 
in  the  Palais  Royal  is  not  to  be  frequented,  or  that  such 
and  such  a  gilded  palace  on  the  boulevard  is  an  expen- 
sive delusion.  I  may,  however,  assure  you  that  as 
prices  run  in  Paris,  it  is  impossible  for  a  restaurateur 
to  serve  you  with  a  healthy  and  honest  plate  of  meat 
for  less  than  one  and  a  half  francs,  and  you  may  there- 
fore conclude  that  the  restaurateurs  who,  for  a  fixed 
price,  varying  from  one  and  a  quarter  to  three  francs. 


THE  RESTAURANTS  OF  PARIS.  151 

offer  you  a  complete  dinner  of  five  courses — soup,  fish, 
meat,  two  desserts,  and  half  a  bottle  of  wine — are  prob- 
ably in  league  with  the  honorable  apothecaries,  whose 
aid  their  customers  must  often  need. 

To  the  traveller  I  say  avoid  prix  fixe  dinners  alto- 
gether, or,  if  you  will  satisfy  your  curiosity,  go  to 
the  Diner  Europeen  at  the  corner  of  rue  Lepelletier 
and  the  boulevard  (price  five  francs),  or  to  the  table 
d'hote  dinners  of  those  vast  caravansaries,  the  Hotel  du 
Louvre,  the  Grand  Hotel,  or  the  Hotel  Continental, 
where  you  dine  for  six,  seven,  or  eight  francs,  and  see 
specimens  of  men,  women  and  children  of  all  the  coun- 
tries of  the  world,  and  a  profusion  of  linen,  of  silver 
plate,  and  luxurious  surroundings  which,  for  a  time, 
will  perhaps  distract  your  attention  from  the  insipidness 
of  the  roasts  and  the  cheapness  of  the  sauces. 

The  Bouillon  Duval  is  an  establishment  which  gener- 
ally attracts  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  In  every 
quarter  of  Paris  you  see  one  or  two  sober  and  respecta- 
ble-looking fagades  painted  dark  red  and  lettered  sim- 
ply, "  Etablissement  Duval."  The  Duval  restaurants 
are  wonderfully  organized,  exceedingly  cheap,  and  all 
the  food  sold  in  them  is  good  and  geniiine  ;  these  estab- 
lishments now  serve  an  average  of  three  million  meals 
a  year.  The  visitor  may  often  find  it  convenient  in  his 
wanderings  about  Paris  to  lunch  in  one  of  these  Duval 
restaurants,  if  he  is  out  of  the  way  of  any  other  well- 
known  restaurant.  In  all  of  them  he  will  find  the  food 
of  the  same  quality,  and  the  prices  the  same.  As  he 
enters,  the  doorkeeper  will  hand  him  a  bulletin,  on 
which  all  that  he  eats  and  drinks  will  be  checked  off, 
and  which  bulletin,  when  duly  paid  and  stamped,  will 
serve  him  as  a  passport  when  he  leaves  the  establish- 
ment. The  prices  at  the  Duvals  are  very  low  ;  no  dish 
costs  more  than  one  franc,  and  most  of  them  only  fifty 
or  sixty  centimes  ;  wine  costs  twenty  centimes  a  carafon, 
which  is  equivalent  to  one  glassful,  or  one  franc  a  bot- 


162  THE  REST  A  URANTS  OF  PARIS. 

tie  and  upwards  ;  coffee  and  cognac  costs  forty  cen- 
times. The  Duval  restaurant  may  be  frequented  with 
impunity,  for  nothing  poisonous  or  deleterious  is  sold 
there  ;  the  only  disadvantage  is  that  the  portions  being 
very  small,  a  hungry  man,  in  order  to  satisfy  his  appe- 
tite, will  need  so  many  portions,  that  his  bill  will  mount 
up  to  as  much  as  if  he  had  lunched  or  dined  in  an  estab- 
lishment of  superior  standing  and  comfort.  The  Bouil- 
lon Duval  stands  in  the  same  relation  to  the  regular 
restaurant  as  the  omnibus  or  tram-car  stands  to  the 
victoria  ;  as  somebody  has  saW,  c'est  V omnibus  du  ventre. 

At  length  we  come  to  the  restaurants  proper,  the  res- 
taurants where  one  dines  in  the  true  sense  of  the  term. 
It  is  commonly  believed  that  the  first-class  restaurants 
in  Paris  are  very  dear.  The  Cafe  Anglais,  you  will  be 
told,  charges  twelve  francs  for  a  beefsteak  for  two,  and 
fifteen  francs  for  a  Rouen  duck.  Yes,  but  the  beefsteak 
in  question  is  a  Chateaubriand,  a  kernel  of  delicate 
meat  cut  in  the  heart  of  the  filet, — meat  that  is  sold  at 
two  and  a  half  francs  a  pound  by  the  butcher — and  the 
duck  costs  eight  or  nine  francs  at  the  poulterer's.  Good 
provisions  in  Paris  are  dear,  and  when  one  considers 
the  heavy  expenses  of  the  first-class  restaurants,  one 
cannot  complain  of  their  charges. 

As  regards  perfection  of  cooking,  the  Cafe  Anglais 
heads  the  list.  Its  soups  and  sauces  are  exquisite  ;  a 
sole  "a  rOrly,"  "Colbert,"  "normande,"  "  a  la  Join- 
ville,"  or  "  au  vin  blanc,"  may  be  eaten  there  in  perfec- 
tion, and  there  is  no  restaurant  in  Paris  where  you  can 
get  a  more  delicate  "  sauce  diable  "  served  to  a  grilled 
fowl.  The  two  great  tests  of  a  French  kitchen  are 
soups  and  sauces  ;  if  these  are  good,  you  may  rest  as- 
sured that  everything  else  will  be  good. 

In  the  same  category  with  the  Cafe  Anglais,  both  as 
regards  quality  of  food  and  price,  may  be  placed  Du- 
rand's,  opposite  the  Madeleine,  and  Adolphe  and  Pelle 
behind  the   Opera.     Next   come  the   Maison  d'Or,  the 


THE  RESTA  URANTS  OF  PARIS.  isS 

• 
Cafe  de  la  Paix,  Bignon,  and  the  Cafe  de  Paris,  in  the 
Avenue  de  I'Opera,  Voisin  in  the  rue  Cambon,  the  old 
Vefour  in  the  Palais  Royal,  the  Pere  Lathuile,  in  the 
Avenue  de  Clichy,  and  Fayot,  opposite  the  Luxem- 
bourg Palace.  At  all  these  restaurants  you  can  dine 
delicately  and  drink  as  good  wines  as  are  still  to  be  had 
in  France.  Voisin  and  Foyot,  especially,  have  choice 
Burgundies  of  incomparable  fineness. 

The  third  category  of  restaurants  includes  the  Cafe 
Riche,  which  years  ago  belonged  to  the  first  category  ; 
Brebant's,  now  a  general  Bouillon,  at  the  comer  of 
Boulevard  Montmartre  ;  Chevilliard,  at  the  Rond-Point 
des  Champs  Elysees ;  Laurent,  and  Ledoyen,  in  the 
Champs  Elysees ;  Champeaux,  Place  de  la  Bourse, 
where  you  dine  in  a  perpetual  winter  garden  ;  Edouard, 
Place  Boieldieu,  opposite  the  Opera  Comique ;  Wepler, 
Place  Clichy  ;  La  Perouse,  on  the  Quai  des  Grands  Au- 
gustins  ;  Maire,  at  the  comer  of  the  Boulevard  de  Stras- 
bourg and  the  Boulevard  St.  Denis ;  Marguery,  next 
door  to  the  Gymnase  theatre  ;  Perroncel,  rue  du  Havre, 
opposite  the  Gare  Saint  Lazare.  In  the  Bois  du  Bou- 
logne the  restaurants  of  Madrid,  and  of  the  Pavilion 
d'Armenonville  are  niuch  frequented  in  the  summer  by 
gay  and  smart  people  :  the  prices  are  about  the  same  as 
at  the  restaurants  in  town  of  the  second  category,  that 
is  to  say,  two  can  dine  there  modestly  with  ordinary 
wine  for  a  louis. 

I  presume  that  the  traveller  comes  to  Paris  to  taste 
Parisian  cooking,  and  therefore  I  shall  not  recommend 
him  to  try  the  pseudo-English  cuisine  of  Weber  or  Lucas 
in  the  rue  Royale  and  Place  de  la  Madeleine,  or  the 
Russian  restaurant  in  the  rue  Marivaux,  or  the  Hunga- 
rian restaurant  in  the  rue  Rougemont.  There  remain 
then  to  be  mentioned  only  a  few  special  establishments, 
such  as  the  Pied  de  Mouton  near  the  Central  Market, 
and  the  famous  tripe  restaurant  in  the  rue  Montorgueil. 
There  are  several  restaurants  in   Paris  which  make  a 


1S4  ■  THE  RESTAURANTS  OF  PARIS. 

specialty  of  Bouillabaisse  ;  but  I  do  not  recommend  that 
dish  in  Paris,  for  the  simple  reason  that  it  is  not  the  real 
article.  In  the  Parisian  Bouillabaisse  several  of  the 
fish  elements  are  wanting  because  they  cannot  bear 
transportation  from  the  seaside.  The  traveller  gourmet 
will  prefer  to  wait  until  chance  leads  him  to  Marseilles, 
where  the  reigning  chief  of  the  great  dynasty  of  Rou- 
bion  will  serve  him  this  savoury  dish  on  a  balcony 
overlooking  the  blue  Mediterranean.  The  cafe  con- 
certs in  the  Champs  Elysees  ^re  also  much  frequented 
by  open  air  diners  in  the  summer.  The  spectacle 
is  curious  and  amusing,  but  the  gourmet  will  flee  the 
promiscuity  and  bustle  of  their  dear  and  mediocre 
cuisine. 

To  give  precise  details  as  to  price  is  difficult.  One 
may  say  generally  that  at  the  Cafe  Anglais  two  persons 
can  dine  delicately  and  well  without  stint  as  to  good 
wines  or  choice  of  dishes,  for  about  two  louis  (forty 
francs).  On  the  other  hand,  the  single  man  who  is  pre- 
pared to  spend  not  less  than  seven  francs  on  his  dinner 
may  enter  boldly  any  restaurant  in  Paris,  from  the  Cafe 
Anglais  downward,  and  dine  for  that  sum  on  soup,  one 
dish,  cheese,  and  half  a  bottle  of  wine.  For  ten  or 
twelve  francs  one  may  dine  simply  but  abundantly  al- 
most anywhere,  except  at  the  very  tip-top  houses,  such 
as  the  Cafe  Anglais,  Durand's,  and  Adolphe  and  Pelle's. 
By  way  of  practical  hints  I  will  subjoin  a  few  observa- 
tions. 

Beware  of  hors  cToeuvres  and  baskets  of  fruit,  for  their 
influence  on  the  total  of  your  bill  is  alarming.  If  you 
are  alone,  resolutely  refuse  radishes  and  butter,  or 
rather  leave  them  untouched  on  the  table  before  you  ; 
if  you  have  invited  a  friend  to  dinner,  offer  him  hors 
d'oeuvres  and  hope  that  he  will  refuse  ;  if  you  are  with  a 
lady,  both  hors  (Ta'uvres  and  the  basket  of  fruit  are  obli- 
gatory. Eve  offered  fruit  to  Adam  ;  the  least  we  sons 
of  Adam  can  do  is  to  return  the  politeness. 


THE  RESTA  URANTS  OF  PARIS.  155 

The  real  gourmet  eats  by  candle-light,  because,  as 
Nestor  Roqueplan  said,  "rein  n'est  laid  comme  une 
sauce  vue  au  soleil. " 

When  you  enter  a  restaurant  refuse  as  a  rule  the 
place  that  is  offered  you.  Choose  your  own  table,  and  if 
it  is  breakfast-time  secure  a  view  through  the  window 
and  a  view  of  the  whole  restaurant,  and  if  possible  let 
the  light  strike  on  the  table  from  your  left  hand. 

Preserve  your  freedom  of  will,  but  do  not  try  to  im- 
pose it.  You  are  the  master,  it  is  true,  and  yet  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  you  must  obey.  Consult,  therefore,  with 
the  maitre  (Thdtel,  consider  what  he  recommends,  and 
accept  it  if  it  be  to  your  taste,  for  in  the  good  restaur- 
ants there  is  no  question  of  passing  off  stale  food.  The 
maitre  (T hotel  is  flattered  when  you  ask  his  advice,  and 
it  is  his  business  to  be  acquainted  with  the  special  and 
daily  resources  of  the  larder.  At  places  like  the  Cafe 
Anglais  the  written  menu  mentions  only  a  few  very  ordin- 
ary dishes,  and  you  will  inspire  respect  by  not  asking  for 
the  carte.  At  Bignon's  do  not  trouble  yourself  about 
the  carte  ;  ask  advice  of  the  portly  Louis,  and  do  not  dis- 
dain his  counsel.  In  cookery  as  in  love  much  confidence 
is  necessary. 

Always  ask  for  the  wine  list,  la  carte  des  vim,  even  if 
you  end  by  selecting  vin  ordinaire.  The  richest  people 
in  the  land  drink  vin  ordinaire  with  their  dinner,  and 
dilute  it  with  simple  water.  The  traveller,  therefore, 
need  not  fear  to  do  likewise  even  in  the  most  gorgeous 
restaurants.  Champagne  is  not  much  drunk  by  French 
gourmets,  and  such  champagnes  as  the  Paris  restaurants 
keep  is  sweeter  than  our  people  generally  like.  To  the 
connoisseur  in  champagne  I  would  say,  ' '  Do  not  drink 
champagne  in  France,  for  the  best  criis  are  to  be  found 
in  England  and  Russia. "  If  you  desire  fine  red  or  white 
wines  you  will  find  the  nomenclature  and  the  prices  on 
the  list  ;  choose  your  Beaune,  Pomard,  Volnay,  Nuits. 
or  Moulin  a  Vent,  your  Tavel,  Tonnerre,  or  Chamber- 


156  THE  REST  A  V RANTS  OF  PARIS. 

tin  according  to  your  taste  and  purse  ;  consult  confi- 
dentially with  the  butler,  and  mind  that  you  always 
address  him  a.s  sommelier,  and  not  gargon.  The  som- 
melier  is  inferior  to  the  gargon  in  the  hierarchy  of  table 
service,  as  you  will  see  from  his  more  humble  and  re- 
spectful demeanor. 

Ask  for  r addition,  and  not  either  la  carte  or  la  note, 
which  savours  of  provincialism.  Verify  your  change 
rapidly,  and  see  that  no  pieces  lurk  on  the  plate  beneath 
the  bill.  Be  liberal  towards  the  waiter,  for  it  is  the 
pourboire  that  secures  you  a  iSmile  when  you  arrive  and 
a  smile  when  you  leave,  a  helping  hand  when  you  are 
struggling  into  your  overcoat,  obliging  and  ready  ser- 
vice, and  the  appearance,  nay,  even  the  reality  of  friend- 
ship. In  the  three  categories  of  restaurants  mentioned 
above  do  not  give  the  waiter  less  than  fifty  centimes, 
however  modest  ypur  bill,  and  the  more  delicate  and 
satisfactory  your  dinner,  the  more  liberal  let  your  pour- 
boire be,  ranging  from  one  franc  up  to  five,  calculated 
generally  at  the  rate  of  five  per  cent,  on  the  total  of  your 
bill. 


THE  AMERICAN  CHURCH   IN   PARIS. 


On  the  rue  de  Berri,  a  short  street  connecting  the 
beautiful  Champs  Elysees  with  the  splendid  Boulevard 
Haussmann,  stands  a  church  edifice  of  which  much  is 
heard  through  the  newspapers,  but  the  history  of  which 
is  not  generally  known.  It  is  "  The  American  Church 
in  Paris, "  that  being  its  formal  title.  With  one  excep- 
tion, it  is  the  only  American  house  of  worship  in  Paris. 
The  exception  is  its  neighbor,  the  American  Episcopal 
church,  situated  on  the  avenue  de  I'Alma,  the  thorough- 
fare connecting  the  Champs  Elysees  with  Place  de 
I'Alma.  The  former  edifice  is,  however,  always  known 
as  "The  American  Church." 

157 


158       THE  AMERICAN  CHURCH  IN  PARIS. 

It  was  founded  early  in  the  second  empire,  by  the 
American  and  Foreign  Christian  Union  of  New  York 
city.  In  1857  the  Union  selected  the  Rev.  Edward  Nor- 
ris  Kirk,  D.  D. ,  of  Boston,  to  commence  the  enterprise 
of  securing  funds  for  the  purchase  of  the  property,  an 
undertaking  which  he  courageously  and  successfully 
accomplished.  In  the  sarne  year  the  property  was  pur- 
chased by  him  and  the  American  Church  in  Paris  was 
established. 

Although  American  in  name  and  built  in  response  to 
a  local  demand  for  an  American'  Church,  all  denomina- 
tions contributed  to  its  construction,  all  have  aided  in 
its  support  and  it  belongs  alike  to  all,  having  from  its 
inception  been  designed  as  a  house  of  prayer  for  all 
people.  Until  five  years  ago  it  was  known  as  the  Amer- 
ican chapel.  Dr.  Beard,  who  was  then  serving  it, 
changed  chapel  to  church. 

Divine  service  is  held  every  Sunday  throughout  the 
year,  and  on  the  third  Sunday  of  the  month  a  meeting 
is  held  in  the  interests  of  French  evangelization.  From 
October  to  June  Sunday  school  and  adult  Bible  classes 
are  conducted,  and  the  attendance  is  gratifying.  A 
prayer  meeting  is  held  on  Monday  afternoons,  and  on 
Friday  afternoons  there  is  a  meeting  of  the  Ladies' 
Benevolent  Association  at  some  house  designated  on 
the  previous  Sunday.  A  cordial  invitation  is  extended 
to  all  ladies  sojourning  in  Paris  to  associate  themselves 
with  the  work  of  this  society.  The  church  is,  as  before 
stated,  an  American  church  only  in  name,  for  all  Eng- 
lish speaking  people  are  welcome  at  the  different  ser- 
vices and  are  invited  to  associate  themselves  in  the 
fellowship  and  work. 

To  speak  precisely,  the  American  Church  is  a  union 
church  on  the  doctrinal  basis  of  the  Evangelical  Alliance. 
It  is  supported  by  pew  rentals,  Sunday  offerings  and 
special  donations.  The  pews  contain  six  sittings  and 
rent  for  $80  per  annum.     Certain  churches  in  the  United 


THE  AMERICAN  CHURCH  IN  PARIS.       159 

States  support  pews  for  the  benefit  of  their  travelHng 
members  and  many  Americans  at  home  as  well  as  in 
England  and  Paris  rent  pews  which  bear  their  names. 

The  American  Church  has  a  library  of  over  one 
thousand  volumes,  which  is  open  on  Sundays  for  the 
free  use  of  visitors.  In  many  other  ways  the  church 
welcomes  the  stranger.  Special  interest  is  felt  by  the 
church  in  the  large  number  of  students  prosecuting  their 
studies  in  Paris.  Dr.  Thurber  extends  a  general  invi- 
tation to  his  friends  and  to  friends  of  the  church,  resi- 
dent in  or  visiting  Paris,  to  call  upon  him  socially  at  his 
home,  13  avenue  McMahon,  near  the  Arc  de  Triomphe. 
He  sets  apart  Wednesday  as  a  special  reception  day, 
afternoon  and  evening,  and  courteously  requests  that 
those  who  worship  at  the  church  introduce  themselves 
after  service  or  send  him  their  cards. 

The  structure  was  designed  by  E.  A.  Salmon  in  the 
thirteenth  century  style  of  architecture  and  it  is  similar 
to  the  church  of  St.  Germain  des  Pres,  Paris.  The 
fagade  is  of  the  light  colored  Caen  stone  so  commonly 
used  in  Paris.  The  plot  is  fifty  feet  wide.  Interiorly 
the  aspect  is  clean  and  fresh,  and  the  atmosphere  home- 
like and  inviting.  The  building  was  entirely  renovated 
some  twelve  years  ago,  during  the  ministry  of  Dr. 
Hitchcock,  and  since  then  it  has  been  maintained  in 
excellent  condition. 

Above  the  mortuary  chapel  hangs  a  picture  repre- 
senting "Christ  Blessing  the  Children."  It  is  a  gift 
from  the  Hon.  Leland  Stanford  and  Mrs.  Stanford,  of 
San  Francisco,  in  memorial  of  their  son,  who  died  eight 
years  ago.  The  mortuary  chapel  itself  is  the  gift  of 
Mrs.  Stanford.  The  body  of  her  son  was  deposited  here 
for  five  weeks,  during  which  time  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stanford 
came  every  day,  always  bringing  freshly  cut  flowers. 
Above  the  vestry  hangs  another  picture,  the  g^ft  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  J.  J.  White,  also  Americans,  presented  on  the 
occasion  of  their  departure  from  Paris. 


MUSfiE  DU  LOUVRE. 


The  Louvre  Palace  is  a  most  magnificent  building, 
the  largest  picture  gallery  in  Paris  or  in  Europe. 

The  offices  of  the  Minister  .'of  Finance  occupy  the 
greater  portion  of  the  modem  building,  while  the  more 
ancient  portion,  since  1793,  serves  as  a  Museum. 

The  Painting  and  Sculpture  Galleries,  which  contain 
many  of  the  master-pieces  of  all  periods,  are  open  daily 
(except  Mondays)  from  nine  to  five  in  summer  and  from 
ten  to  four  in  winter  (Sundays  and  public  holidays,  ten 
to  four). 

Among  the  works  of  the  early  Italian  Masters  the  most 
remarkable  are  those  of  the  Florentine  school.  The 
Virgin  and  Angels,  by  Cimabue  ;  St.  Francois  Receiving 
the  Stigmata,  by  Giotto  ;  the  Virgin  and  Child,  and  the 
Conflict  between  Cupid  and  Chastity,  by  Perugino,  and 
others  by  Fra  Angelico,  Gozzoli,  Fra  Filippo  Lippi  and 
Andre  Mantegna. 

The  most  interesting  of  Raphael's  works  are  :  La 
Belle  Jardiniere ;  Apollo  and  Marsyas ;  The  Holy 
Family  ;  St.  Michael  Conquering  Satan,  and  his  superb 
portrait  of  Bernard  Castiglione,  painted  in  15 16. 

By  Leonardo  da  Vinci :  St.  John  the  Baptist  ;  St. 
Anne  ;  la  Belle  Ferronniere,  and  his  celebrated  Joconde. 

By  Titian  :  The  Entombment ;  Christ  at  Emmaus  ; 
Christ  Crowned  with  Thorns  ;  Frangois  I.  ;  L'homme 
au  gant ;  Alphonso  Davalos  and  his  wife  ;  Alphonse  de 
Ferrare  and  Laura  de  Dianti. 

By  Corregio  :  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  and  Jupiter 
and  Antiope. 

160 


MUS£E  DU  LOU VR£.  161 

By  Paul  Veronese  :  The  Meal  at  the  House  of  Simon 
the  Pharisee.and  the  Marriage  of  Cana. 

Among  the  paintings  of  the  old  Flemish  school  the 
most  remarkable  are  :  Jan  van  Eyck's  Madonna  revered 
by  the  Chancellor  Rollin,  and  Memling's  St.  John  the 
Baptist  and  St.  Mary  Magdalene. 

The  Museum  contains  a  considerable  portion  of 
Rubens's  works,  firstly  the  series  of  twenty-one  allegori- 
cal paintings  representing  scenes  from  the  life  of  Marie 
de  Medicis,  then  Lot's  Flight,  the  Adoration  of  the  Wise 
Men,  the  Flight  into  Eg^ypt,  etc. ,  the  Portrait  of  Helene 
Fourment,  his  second  wife,  with  two  of  his  children,  and 
the  Flemish  Fair. 

By  Rubens'  pupil.  Van  Dyck  :  Charles  I.  of  England, 
a  chef-d'oeuvre. 

Of  the  Dutch  school  there  are  several  superb  Rem- 
brandts :  Angel  of  Tobias  ;  the  Carpenter's  Family  ; 
the  Good  Samaritan  ;  Christ  at  Emmaus  ;  Woman  Bath- 
ing, and  several  portraits  by  the  same  artist. 

By  Fr.  Hals  :  The  Portrait  of  Descartes,  and  others. 
A  few  characteristic  paintings  by  Dou,  Metzu.  Terburg. 
P.  de  Hooch,  van  Ostade,  Jean  Stem,  Cuyp,  Paul  Potter, 
and  some  excellent  landscapes  of  the  same  school  by 
Hobbema,  van  de  Velde,  Ruysdael,  etc. 

Of  the  French  school,  which  is  largely  represented  : 
Charles  IX.  and  that  of  his  wife,  Elisabeth  of  Austria, 
by  Clouet,  the  first  French  artist  worthy  of  note,  who 
died  about  1572. 

The  Day  of  Judgment,  by  Jean  Cousin,  painter,  sculp- 
tor, architect  and  mathematician. 

Of  the  seventeenth  century,  are  paintings  by  Simon 
Vouet,  Nicolas  Poussin,  Claude  Gellee  (called  Le  Lor- 
rain),  Philippe  de  Champaigne,  Eustache  Lesueur,  Ch. 
Lebrun,  Jean  Jouvenet,  Mignard,  Largilliere  and  his 
rival,  Rigaud,  who  has  left  some  excellent  portraits  of 
Louis  XIV.  and  Bossuet. 

Arriving  at  the  eighteenth  century  there  are  paintings 


KJ2  MUS&E  DU  LO  U  VRE. 

by  Watteau.  Boucher,  Vien,  Fragonard,  Chardin,  Lan- 
cret,  Greuze,  etc. 

At  the  beginning  of  this  century  the  French  school 
was  regenerated  by  David.  His  principal  pupils,  Giro- 
det-Trioson,  Gerard,  Gros  and  Guerin,  followed  his 
example,  as  did  also  his  contemporaries,  Lethiere  and 
Prudhon. 

A  new  revolution  was  brought  about  by  Gericault, 
who  was  the  head  of  the  school  of  romantic  painting. 

Then  followed  Ingres,  Delacroix,  Horace  Vernet,  Paul 
Delaroche,  Hippolyte  Flandrin. '  A  number  of  landscape 
painters,  Th.  Rousseau,  Huet,  Jules  Dupre,  Corot, 
Daubigny,  Troyon  and  then  Diaz  and  Millet  brought 
forth  new  vigor  in  the  direct  study  of  nature  ;  and  here 
ends  the  development  of  the  art  as  far  as  one  can  follow 
it  in  the  galleries  of  the  Louvre  Palace,  The  most  in- 
teresting Salle  is  the  famous  square  salon  which  con- 
tains the  greatest  gems  of  the  entire  Museum  and  forms 
in  itself  a  complete  collection  of  incomparable  master- 
pieces. 

The  Sculpture  Galleries  are  divided  into  three  classes, 
Ancient,  Renaissance  and  Modern,  and  they  occupy  the 
ground  floor. 

The  gallery  of  Ancient  Sculpture  (on  the  Seine  side) 
is  rich  in  productions  of  different  periods.  The  most 
remarkable  are  :  Apollo  Belvedere,  Diana  a  la  Biche, 
Gnidian  Venus  (of  which  the  original  is  i:i  the  Vatican), 
Medicean  Venus,  a  Minerva,  Fragment  of  the  frieze  of 
the  Parthenon,  the  Nointel  Tablets,  Torso  of  Juno,  the 
Three  Graces  with  modern  heads,  the  celebrated  Venus 
de  Milo,  the  colossal  Melpomene,  Venus  of  Aries,  Apollo 
Sauroctonus,  Pallas  of  Velletry,  Venus  Genetrix,  the 
Borghese  Gladiator,  Diana  of  Gabii,  Centaur,  Diana 
Huntress  and  the  Tiber  recumbent. 

The  Renaissance  Collection  is  in  the  south  wing  of  the 
inner  court  and  on  the  east  side.  The  most  remarkable 
are  the  works  of  Jean    Goujon,    Germain   Pilon    and 


MUSEE  DU  LOUVRE.  163 

Michael  Angelo,  particularly  the  Fettered  Slaves,  by  the 
last  named  artist  ( 1 5 1 3- 1 5 1 6) ,  destined  for  the  Mausoleum 
of  Pope  Julius  II. 

The  Collection  of  modem  sculpture  is  on  the  west  side 
of  the  ancient  building  and  occupies  six  Salles  bearing 
the  names  of  the  most  celebrated  French  sculptors,  from 
the  time  of  the  Renaissance  to  the  middle  of  the  present 
century,  Puget,  Coysevox,  les  Coustou,  Houdon,  Chau- 
det.  Rude.  The  most  recent  additions  are  to  be  found 
in  the  last  named  Salle  by  Pradier  and  Dumont. 


MUS^E  DU  LUXEMBOURG. 


The  Musee  du  Luxembourg  is  open  daily,  except  Mon- 
days, from  nine  to  five  in  Summer,  and  from  ten  to  four 
in  winter.  Sunday's  and  holidays,  ten  to  four.  It  con- 
tains a  collection  of  works  by  living  artists,  in  painting 
and  sculpture.  The  most  choice  works  are  transferred 
to  the  Galleries  of  the  Louvre  ten  years  after  the  death 
of  the  artist,  the  others  are  assigned  to  provincial 
museums. 

Since  1886  the  museum  has  occupied  a  new  building  in 
the  Palace  Gardens. 

Its  fagade,  decorated  by  Crauk,  represents  France 
recompensing  Art.  To  the  right,  Orpheus  Lulling  Cer- 
berus to  Sleep,  by  Peinte;  to  the  left.  Phaeton,  by  Houssin. 

In  the  vestibule  a  marble  bust  of  Gericault,by  Clere. 

In  the  Sculpture  Gallery  the  Florentine  Singer,  by 
Paul  Dubois  ;  Victor  of  the  Cock  Fight  and  Tarcissus, 
by  Falguiere ;  Love's  Messenger  and  Dawn,  by  Dela- 
planche ;  The  Nest,  by  Croisy ;  Joan  of  Arc,  by  Chapu  ; 
Genius  Guarding  the  Secret  of  the  Tomb,  by  Saint- 
Marceaux  ;  Woman's  Head,  by  Rodin  ;  Agar  and  Ismael, 
by  Aizelin;  David,  by  Mercie;  Salammbo,  by  Idrac; 
Immortality,  by  Longepied;  Fortune,  by  Franceschi; 
Youth,  by  Carles,  and.Bailly,  by  Aube. 

Among  the  paintings  most  worthy  of  notice  are  : 

Salle  I.  Conquerors  of  Salamis,  by  Cormon  ;  St.  Cnth- 
bert,  a  triptych,  by  Duez  ;  Henri  III.  and  the  Duke  of 
Guise,  by  Comte  ;  Laghouat,  by  Guillaumet ;  Venus,  by 
the  sculptor  Mercie ;  Woman's  Head,  by  Ricard ;  De- 
liverance of  the  Prisoners  of  Carcassonne,  by  J.  P. 
Laurens ;   St.  Sebastien,  by  Ribot,  and  Fish,  by  Vollon. 

Salle  II.  The  Birth  of  Venus,  by  Cabanel;  Haymak- 
ing, by  Bastien  Lepage ;  Job,  by  Leon  Bonnat ;  For- 
ward,  by   Roll ;    The    Poor  Fisherman,    by   Puvis  de 

J6i 


MUS^E  DU  L  UXEMBO URG.  165 

Chavannes ;  The  Meeting,  by  Marie ;  The  Cock-Fight, 
by  Gerome,  and  The  Excommunication  of  Robert  the 
Pious,  by  J.  P.  Laurens. 

Salle  III.  Chaste  Susanna,  by  Henner;  Fortune,  by 
Jean  Baudry  ;  Ismael,  by  Cazin ;  View  of  Venice,  by 
Ziem  ;  Rezonville,  by  Morot,  and  Oxen,  by  Rosa  Bon- 
heur.  To  the  left  a  large  painting  by  Benjamin  Con- 
stant, The  Last  Rebels. 

Salle  IV.  Gleaner,  by  Breton  ;  Truth,  by  J.  Lefebvre  ; 
The  Last  Days  of  Corinth,  by  Tony  Robert  Fleury  ; 
Two  Small  Military  Subjects,  by  A.  de  Neuville ;  Na- 
poleon III.  at  Solferino,  by  Meissonier ;  a  Large  Land- 
scape, by  Pelouse,  and  a  View  of  Bercy,  by  Guillemet. 

Salle  V.  In  the  Country,  by  Lerolle ;  Morning  and 
Evening,  by  Jules  Dupre ;  Maid  at  the  Fountain,  by 
Bonvin;  Cain,  by  Cormon ;  Floreal,  by  Collin;  The 
Reapers'  Pay-day,  by  Lhermitte ;  All  Saints'  Day,  by 
Friant ;  The  Dream,  by  Detaille,  and  For  the  Country, 
by  G.  Bertrand. 

Salle  VI.  The  Arrest,  by  Salmson  ;  The  Samaritan,  by 
Ribot ;  The  Burial,  by  Ulysse  Butin  ;  The  Death-bed  of 
Gambetta,  by  Cazin,  and  The  Bearers  of  111  News,  by 
Jules  Lecomte-Dunouy. 

Salle  VII.  The  Satyr,  by  Gerveix  ;  Visiting  Day  at  the 
Hospital,  by  Jean  Geoffrey;  Naiad,  by  Henner:  The 
Baptism,  by  Renard. 

Salle  A'lII.  Sketches  by  different  masters  and  a  few 
paintings,  among  them  the  Abandoned  Child,  by  Louis 
Deschamps. 

Salle  X.  The  Farmer's  Wife,  by  Roll ;  Divine  Service 
on  the  Sea-shore,  by  Edelfelt,  and  the  Sacred  Wafer, 
by  Dagnan. 

Salle  XI.  Vierge  Consolatrice,  by  Bouguereau ;  Fan 
and  Dagger,  by  Falguiere ;  the  Beach,  by  Madame 
Demont  Breton  ;  Saint  Sebastien,  by  Henner ;  the  Ferry- 
man's Daughter,  by  Adan  ;  Mazarin,  by  Vetter,  and 
Souvenirs,  by  Chaplin. 


MUSEE  DE  CLUNY. 


The  Musee  de  Cluny  is  open  to  the  pubhc  from  eleven 
to  five  in  summer  and  eleven  to  four  in  winter  (Mondays 
excepted). 

It  contains  a  most  varied  collection  of  mediaeval  ob- 
jects of  art,  upwards  of  eleven  thousand,  dating  from 
the  seventh  to  the  eighteenth  century. 

The  Hotel  de  Cluny  is  in  itself  an  historical  monument 
of  the  highest  interest,  uniting  in  one  building,  almost  in- 
tact, the  three  finest  periods  of  Fr"fench  architectural  art. 

On  entering  the  court-yard  by  a  gateway,  which 
merits  particular  attention,  is  to  be  remarked  the  prin- 
cipal fagade  bearing  the  escutcheons  and  devices  of  the 
Amboise  family. 

Entrance  to  the  Museum,  at  the  end  of  the  court-yard 
on  the  right. 

Salle  I.  Carved  wood,  sculptured  marble  and  alabas- 
ter, see  705,  dating  from  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century. 
The  glass  cases  contain  buckets,  medals  and  a  leaden 
case  which  contained  the  heart  of  Louis  de  Luxembourg. 

Salle  II.  The  collection  of  shoes  of  all  periods  and 
countries  and  the  stone  chimney-piece  dating  from  the 
sixteenth  century. 

Salle  III.  Curiosities  in  lead  and  bronze,  inscriptions 
from  the  crypt  of  St.  Denis,  a  Triptych  of  the  Memling 
School  and  a  large  buffet  in  carved  wood,  dating  from 
the  fifteenth  century. 

Salle  IV.  Furniture  of  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth 
centuries,  and  a  finely  carved  chimney-piece.  To  the 
left,  the  Andeoud  Collection,  specimens  of  Italian  and 
Spanish  art  of  the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries. 

On  descending  two  steps  from  Salle  IV.  is  a  triptych 
of  the  Florentine  school,  buffet  in  carved  wood  (768), 
Italian  paintings  and  a  piece  of  French  tapestry  (6370), 

To  the  right,  a  large  room  containing  sculpture,  among 
which  are  Jeanne  de  Laval,  wife  of  King  Rene,  in  white 
'    166 


MUS£E  BE  CLUNY.  167 

marble,  curious  statuettes  of  the  fourteenth  century,  The 
Mourners,  by  Philippe  le  Hardi,  taken  from  the  tomb  of 
the  Dukes  of  Bourgogne  and  Berry;  several  Virgin  Marys 
of  the  fourteenth,  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries,  etc. 

To  the  left  of  the  corridor,  three  rooms  containing 
tapestries  made  in  Flanders  during  the  reign  of  Louis 
XII.;  in  the  cases,  ecclesiastical  ornaments  and  vest- 
ments of  the  sixteenth  century,  head-dresses,  belts,  etc. 

A  Venetian  lady's  garment  in  point  lace  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  and  the  mantles  and  collarettes  of  the 
dignitaries  of  the  order  of  Saint-Esprit  created  by  Henri 
III.  in  1579.  Buffets,  cabinets  and  other  works  of  art  in 
wood  and  marble. 

In  a  room  to  the  right,  gala  carriages,  sledges,  Sedan 
chairs,  etc. 

The  corridor  on  the  first  floor  is  decorated  with 
armor,  and  in  the  two  rooms  to  the  right  is  exposed  a 
magnificent  collection  of  Italian  and  Hispano-Moorish 
faience.  See  the  superb  bas-reliefs  in  enamel  faience 
from  Lucca  della  Robbia  and  those  from  Lindos  after 
the  style  of  the  Persian  workmanship. 

At  the  end  of  these  two  rooms  two  fine  tapestries  of 
the  fifteenth  century,  in  the  cases  ;  works  in  glass  and 
enamel,  carved  wooden  panels  and  large  plaques  in 
Limoges  enamel  by  Pierre  Courteys. 

To  the  left  of  the  corridor  a  room  containing  French  and 
Dutch  faience  (25  authentic  pieces,  by  Bernard  Palissy). 
The  three  small  rooms  at  the  side  contain  various  paint- 
ings of  the  Italian  school,  furniture  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  etc. 

In  the  suite  of  rooms  following,  a  state  bed  of  the 
time  of  Francis  I.,  manuscripts  of  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury, works  in  ivory,  various  statuettes,  objects  in 
precious  metals,  etc. ,  etc. 

In  the  Chapel,  a  large  altar-piece  of  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, carved  choir-stall  and  chairs.  Access  to  the  gar- 
den is  obtained  by  a  staircase  at  the  end  of  the  Chapel. 


HOTEL   DES   INVALIDES. 


The  Hotel  des  Invalides  was  commenced  in  1670  after 
the  designs  of  Liberal  Bnianl^  and  finished  in  1674  by 
Mansard,  who  designed  the  dome.  The  interior  of  the 
dome  was  painted  by  Jouvelt.  In  the  two  high  chapels 
on  each  side  of  the  circular  crypt  are  monuments  of 
Vauban  and  Turenne  ;  in  the  circular  crypt  the  tomb 
of  Napoleon  I.  with  bas  reliefs  in  marble  by  Simart  and 
the  twelve  colossal  figures  by  Pradier,  symbolic  of  the 
Emperor's  principal  victories. 

The  entrance  to  the  Musee  d'Artillerie  is  on  the  right 
hand  side  of  the  court  yard  of  honor.  The  western  wing 
consists  of  two  galleries,  and  contains  both  foot  and  cav- 
alry armor  of  great  value  ;  to  the  right  several  historical 
pieces,  those  of  the  High  Constable  de  Montmorency,  of 
the  Duke  of  Guise,  of  Sully  de  Turenne,  etc. ,  a  bas  relief 
of  the  Chateau  de  Pierrefonds  and  the  history  of  the 
French  flag  from  the  time  of  Charlemagne.  The  left 
room  contains  suites  of  armor  worn  by  the  French  kings 
from  the  time  of  Franyois  I.  down  to  Louis  XIV. ;  caval- 
ry armor  and  a  variety  of  arms  used  by  the  different 
French  kings;  the  swords  of  Frangois  I,  Henri  II., 
Charles  IX.,  Henri  IV..  Louis  XIV.,  Louis  XVI.,  Charles 
X.,  a  rifle  of  Napoleon  I.  and  thirty-one  foreign  flags 
taken  from  the  enemy  under  the  first  empire.  At  the 
end  of  this  gallery  are  rooms  containing  the  war  dresses 
of  Africa,  America  and  Asia. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  court  yard  is  an  historical 
gallery  of  arms  and  Aveaporis  from  the  most  remote 

168 


HOTEL  DES  INVALIDES.  169 

ages  down  to  the  rifle  invented  in  1874,  and  a  handsome 
collection  of  Oriental  arras  from  Asia  and  Africa.  On 
the  floor  above  are  specimens  of  war-dress  dating  from 
the  most  remote  ages  down  to  the  year  1792.  The  room 
facing  contains  a  collection  of  model  artillery  of  every 
invention  down  to  the  year  1870. 

In  the  Cour  de  la  Victoire  a  collection  of  cannon 
which  were  used  by  the  French  armies  in  different 
campaigns.  The  Chapel  contains  foreign  flags  taken 
during  the  different  wars. 


PLACES  OF  INTEREST   AND  TIME   FOR   VISITING   THEM. 


Places. 

Time  for  Visiting. 

Remarks. 

Arc  de  Triomphe 

All  day. 

Tues.  and  Thurs.,  lo  to  4. 

BiBLIOTHKQUE  NaTIONAIE.  .. 

*BoN  Marchb    ...    

Daily,  8  to  8. 

Sund.  and  holidnys  except. 

Bourse ' 

Daily,  12  to  3. 
All  day. 
Saturdays. 

Sund.  and  holidays  except. 

Buttes-Chaumont     

♦Catacombs 

By  special  permission    from 

the  prefect  de  la  Seine. 

Cemetery Pere-Lachaise.  . . 

AH  day. 

♦Chambre  des  Deputes 

Daily,  12  to  4. 

COLONNE  VeNdA.VIE 

All  day.            ; 

"        deJuillet  (Bastille) 

♦EcoLE  des  Beaux-Arts 

Week  days,  10  to  4. 

Sundays,  12  to  4. 

*EC0LE   DE  MedECINE 

Daily,  1 1  to  5. 

♦Gobelins  (Tapestry  Manufac- 

tory). 

Wed.  and  Sat.,  i  to  3. 

Halles  centr.  (Market) 

Daily. 

*H6tel  des  Invalides 

Daily,  12  to  4. 

*H6t.  des  Monnaies  (Mint). . 

Tuesday  and  Frid.,  12  to  3. 

By  per.  from  the  directors. 

Hotel  de  Ville 

Frid,,  12  to  3,  Tues.,  Thurs., 

By  permission  from  the  di- 

Sats., 2  to  3. 

rector  of  works. 

Jardin  d'Acclimatation  . .  . 

All  day. 

♦Jardin  Du  Luxembourg  ..    . 

All  day. 

1 

•Jardin  des  Plantes 

All  day  (Tuesdays  and  Fri- 

Tickets to  visit  the  conserva-l 

days,  best  days  to  visit). 

tories,  etc.,  may  be  had  at 
the  office  of  the  administ.    j 

♦Luxembourg  (Palais  du) 

Daily,  except  Mond.,  9  to  6. 

See  galleries  of  paintings  and 
sculptures,  works  of  living 
artists. 

Madeleine  (Church) 

Daily,  after  i  o'clock. 

No  visiting  allowed  during 
service. 

MusEE  des  Arts  et  Metiers. 

Sundays,     Tues.,     Thurs- 

Other days  apply  to  the  ad- 

days,  10  to  4. 

ministration  from  12  to  3. 

♦Muske  de  Cluny 

Daily,  Mondays  excepted, 
II  to  5. 

Closed  on  public  holidays 
falling  in  the  week. 

Musbe  du  Louvre  

Week  days,  Mond    except., 
Daily,  10  to  5. 

Sundays,  10  to  4. 

♦Notre-Da.me  (Cathedral) 

Relics,  10  to  5.    The  Towers, 

9  to  j<  past  5. 

♦Pal-MS  de  Justice    

Daily,  12  to  4. 

Sund.  and  holidays  except. 

Palais-Royal 

All  day. 

♦Pantheon 

Daily,   Mondays  excepted. 

To  visit  Dome  an   order  is 

10  to  4. 

necessary  from  the  admin- 
istration des  Beaux-Arts. 

Sainte-Chapelle 

Daily,  1 1  to  5. 

Saint-Denis  (Abbey) 

Daily,  8.30  to  5.30. 

Crypt  from  i  to  4.  No  visit- 
ing during  service. 

Sewers  (Egouts) 



By  permiss.  from  Director 
of  works.  Hotel  de  Ville. 

♦Tomb  of  Napoleon 

Mondays,     Tues.,    Thurs., 
Fridays,  12  to  4. 

Winter  months,  12  to  3. 

♦Tour  Eiffel 

Daily. 

♦Parc  de  Montsouris 

Daily. 

N.  B. — Places  marked  ♦  are  on  the  bank  of  the  Seine. 

170 


PLACES  OF   PUBLIC  AMUSEMENT. 

Performances  begin  from  7.30  to  8.30  p.m.  Most  Theatres,  etc., 
hold  Matinees  on  Sundays. 


Theatres. 

Location. 

^^"i^^^*^    !  Class  op  Entertain- 

hours.                            ^'^''^^ 

Opbra  

Comedie-Fran9aise  . . 

Opbra-Comiqok 

Odbon 

Gvmnase 

Vaudeville 

10  to  5        Lyrical  (Grand  Opera). 

11  to  6        Comedy     and     Tragedy 

j     (ancient  and  modem). 

10  to  7        Lyrical  (Operas  and  Com- 

1     ic  Operas). 

11  to  6       Comedy,  Tragedy,  Dra 

1     ma. 
II  to  7       [Modem  Comedy  and 

!     Drama. 
1 1  to  6        Vaudeville  and  Comedy. 
From  iia.m.  Operettes,     Opera-Bouf- 
fes  and  Light  (^omedy. 

II  to  6       Vaudeville,  Oimedies. 
II  to  7       Tragedy  and  Drama. 

10  to  7       |Operettes    and    Opera- 

1     Bouffes. 

1 1  to  6       jOperettes    and    Opera- 

1     Bouffes. 

II  to  6        Fairy  .Scenes  and  Ballet. 

1 1  to  6        Operettes  and  Burlesques 

II  to 6.30     Operettes    and    Opera- 

1     Bouffes. 

II  to  6       Operettes    and    Opera- 

Bouffes. 
II  to  6       Melodrama. 
II  to  5.30     Comedy  and  Drama. 
1 1  to  6        Light  Comedy. 

11  to  9       Operettes    and    Opera- 

{     Bouffes. 

12  to  s       Comedy.                             i 
II  to  7      jBallets,  Pantomimes,] 

1     Operettes.                       1 

Place  du    Theatre  -  Fran- 

(ais. 
Place  duChStelet 

Place  del'Odeon 

Bd.  de  Bonne-Nouvelle  . . 

Rue  de  la  Chauss.-d'Antin, 
Boulevard  Montmartre . . . 

N.  W.  Comer  of  the  Pa 

VARliTES 

Palais-Royal 

Porte   St-Martin... 
Boi'ffes-Parisiens  .. 

Renai,s.s.\n'ce 

Chatelet  

Gaitb  ...  _ 

Nouveautes 

Boulevard  Saint-Martin.. 
Passage  Choiseul 

Boulevard  Saint-Martin.. 

Place  du  ChStelet 

Square  des  Arts  et  Metiers. 
Boulevard  des  Italiens  . . . 

Rue  de  Bondy 

Boulevard  Saint  Martin,. 

FoLIES  DRAMATlgUES. 

Ambigu 

Chateau-d'Eau 

Cllnv 

Menus-Plaisir.s 

Dejazet 

Boulevard  St- Germain  . .  . 
Boulevard  de  Strasbourg. 

Boulevard  du  Temple 

Concerts  and 

CAFis-CHANTANTS. 

Location. 

D.^te  and 
Time. 

Remarks. 

CoNC.  Populaires 

CoNC.   Lamoureux  .  .  . 
Concerts  Colonne  . . 

Ambassadbiirs 

Alcazar   d'Ete 

l'horloge 

Sunday.      !  During  Winter  Months. 

...    During  Winter  Months. 

Daily  p.m.    During  Summer  Months. 
Daily  p.  m.    During  Summer  Months. 

ChStelet-Thdatre 

Champs-EIysees 

Champs-EIysees 

Champs-EIysees 

Bd.  de  Strasbourg 

Bd.  de  Strasbourg 

Eldorado , 

SCALA 

Daily  p.m. 
Daily  p.m. 

During  Winter  Months. 
AU  the  Year. 

171 


1        Circuses  and 
j           Varieties. 

Location. 

Date  and 
Time. 

Remarks. 

Hippodrome 

iCiRQUE  d'Ete 

jCiRQUE  d'Hiver 

NouvEAU  Cirque      .. 
iCiRQUE  Fernando. . . 
.Folies-Bergiire 

Avenue  de  I'Alma 

Champs-Elysfees 

Bd.  des  Filles  du  Calvaire. 

Rue  Saint-Honore    

Bd.  Rochechoiiart 

Rue  Richer 

Daily. 
Daily  p.m. 
Daily  p.m. 
Daily  p.m. 
Daily  p.m. 
Daily  p.m. 

From  March  to  November 
From  April  to  October. 
From  November  to  May. 
From  October  to  May. 
During  Winter  Months. 
Variety  Entertainments. 

CABS. 


On  hiring  a  cab,  ask  the  Driver  for  his  number  (Numiro).     His  ticket  will  serve  in  case 
of  complaint  or  inquiry. 

? 


1 

Maximum  Tariff  within  Paris.  ' 

: 

Bevond  the 
fortificat. 

Tariff  per  kil.  for  all  Cabs 
provided  with   a  distance 
controller. 

Cabs. 

To  seat  2  persons. 
"     "    4    and    s 
persons  with  or 
without     gallery 
top 

Landaus    to    seat 
4  or  6  persons. . 

FOR     HOURS. 

By  day. 

Cabs. 

To  seat  2  persons. 

Landaus    to  seat 
4  or  6  persons.. 

within    PARIS.  ! 

HOUR.        hour.    ; 

By  day. 

Night.: 

0 

Night. 
Day. 

F.  C. 

2  50 

»  75 

3  50 

'JZ 

o3 

1 

Extra. 

i        '' 

F.  C.  F.  C.  F.  C. 

1  50  2   2512  00 

2  00  2    SO  2    50 

a  so  3  00  3  00 

F.    C. 

2  so 

2  75 

3  00 

f.  c. 

0  75 

1  00 

1    2S 

f.  c. 
0  25 
0  30 

0  40 

f.  c. 
.  0  50 

Day.        In  summer  from  6  a.  m.  Winter  from  7  a.  m.  to  12.30  a.  m. 
Night.     In       "          "     12.30  a.m.        "         12.30  a.  m.  to  7  a.  m. 

The  charge  in  case  of  a  cab  for  2  or  4  persons  returning  empty  from  beyond  the  fortifica- 
tions is  of  I  franc,  and  of  a  cab  for  6  persons,  2  francs. 

Luggage. — One  parcel,  25  c.  ;  two  parcels.  50  c.  ;   three  nr  more,  75  c. 

No  charge  for  small  parcels  taken  inside  the  cab. 

It  is  customary  to  give  a  small  gratuity  <yc  fiourboire  of  a  few  sous  to  the  driver. 

When  hiring  by  time  the  first  hour  must  be  paid  in  full,  after  which  the  time  may  be  cal- 
culated by  fraction. 

It  is  advisable  when  taking  a  cab  by  the  hour  to  mention  the  time  to  the  driver. 

Should  there  be  any  cause  for  complaint,  apply  to  the  guardian  stationed  at  every  cab- 
stand or  to  a  policeman. 

Any  article  forgotten  in  a  cab  should  be  claimed  at  the  Prefecture  de  Police  (Bureau  des 
objets  trouv^s)  2.  quai  du  March^-Neuf,  from  10  a.m.  to  2  p.m. 

172 


FRENCH  COINS  AND   THEIR   UNITED  STATES  VALUE, 


French, 

United  States. 

French. 

United  States.' 

P«"-     rim^ 

Sous. 

Dollars. 

Cents. 

Francs.       ?^"- 
bmes. 

Sous. 

1 

j  Dollars. 

Cents. 

"               5               « 
25               S 
SO             lo 
75              IS 

1  lOO          1          20 

2  '            <<          1          ^o 

5       .         "too 

I 

1 
5 
xo 
15 

20 

40 

10 
20 

50 

100 

I      500 

1,000 

5,000 

I 

!       2 

4 

10 

20 

100 

300 

1    x,ooo 

>t 

The  Bank  of  France  issues  notes  of  50,  100,  500,  1,000,  and  5,000  francs. 

Gold  pieces  are  of  the  value  of  5,  10,  20,  40,  50,  and  100  francs. 

Silver  pieces  are  of  the  value  of  20  c,  50  c,  i  fr.,  2  fr.,  and  5  francs. 

Bronze  pieces  are  of  the  value  of  i.  2,  5,  and  10  centimes. 

Minor  values  are  often  q\ioted  in  sous  instead  of  centimes  ;  the  price  of  an  article,  for  in- 
stance, is  said  to  be  of  i,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  lo,  20.  40,  or  even  100  sous,  instead  of  5,  10,  15,  20,  25. 
30,  50  centimes,  i  fr.  2  fr.,  and  5  fr.,  respectively. 

COMPARATIVE  TABLE  OF  FRENCH  AND  ENGLISH  MEASURES. 


M^RBS. 

Yards. 

Inxhes. 

Mktres. 

Yards. 

Inches. 

Metres. 

Yards. 

In'ches.  I 

1              . 

I 

3^ 

12 

n 

4       1 

23 

'i 

30 

2 

3 

6)tf 

13 

>4 

7 

24 

36 

8 

3 

3 

10 

«4 

15 

II 

25 

27 

»3 

4 

4 

•3 

15 

16 

»5 

26 

28 

IS 

5 

s 

'7 

16 

>7 

18 

27 

29 

19 

6 

6 

ao 

»7 

18 

21 

28 

30 

23 

7 

7 

23 

t8 

>9 

24 

29 

31 

36 

8 

8 

37 

»9 

20 

38 

30 

32 

39 

9 

9 

30 

20 

21 

3« 

40 

43 

27 

10 

10 

34 

31 

33 

3S 

50 

54 

25 

II 

12 

t 

32 

24 

I 

100 

109 

14 

1 

Measvres. — The  unit  employed  for  all  measures  is  the  metre,  which  is  subdivided  into 
centimetres  and  millimetres  ;  uie  metre  is  equivalent  to  i  yard  3>i  inches. 


COMPARATIVE  TABLE  OF  FRENCH  AND  ENGLISH  DISTANCES. 


KlLOMBT. 

Miles. 

Yards.  | 

KlI-CMET. 

Miles. 

Yards. 

KiLOMET. 

Miles. 

Yards. 

I 

0 

1090    i 

12 

7 

760 

SO 

30 

1700 

2 

I 

420              ; 

13 

8 

90 

60 

37 

1      280 

3 

I 

1510              1 

•4 

8 

1180    1 

70 

43 

620 

4 

3 

840 

IS 

9 

510    1 

80 

19 

960 

5 

3 

170 

t6 

9 

1600    i 

90 

55 

1300 

6 

3 

1360 

17 

10 

930    1 

too 

61 

1640 

!      7 

4 

590 

18 

II 

260    j 

200 

123 

1520 

8 

4 

I6SO              1 

«9 

II 

i^So      ! 

300 

.85 

1400 

9 

5 

lOIO      1 

20 

12 

680 

400 

247 

1380 

10 

6 

340   1 

30 

18 

1020 

500 

309 

ti6o 

II 

6 

1430   ! 

40 

24 

.360     1 

1000 

619 

1560 

DUtanct*. — i  kilometre  is  equal  to  1,000  metres. 

178 


AMBASSADORS  AND   CONSULS. 
Hours  ii  a.m.  to  2  p.m. 

United  States  Ambassador,  35  Av.  Hoche. 

United  States  Consul,  36  Av.  de  I'Opera. 

Passports  may  be  had  from  the  American  Ambassa- 
dor ;  although  not  necessary  in  France,  they  are  often 
useful  in  case  of  admittance  to  public  buildings  or  should 
one's  identity  be  required. 


AMERICAN   BANKERS. 
Hours  id  a.»j.  to  4  p.m. 

Drexel  Harjes  &  Co.,  31  Boulevard  Haussmann. 

Hottinguer  &  Co.  (agents  for  Brown  Bros.,  New  York), 
38  Rue  de  Provence. 

Munroe  &  Co.,  7  Rue  Scribe. 

Rothschild  Freres,  21  Rue  Laffitte. 

Seligman  Freres  &  Co. ,  32  bis,  Boulevard  Haussmann. 

Anglo  American  Bank,  cor.  of  Rue  Meyerbeer  and 
Chaussee  d'Antin.  

RELIGIOUS    SERVICES. 

American  Church,  21  Ruede  Berri  (Champs-Elysees), 
II  A.M. 

American  Episcopal  Church,  19  Avenue  de  I'Alma, 
II  A.M. 

English  Church,  5  Rue  d'Aguesseau  (60  Faubourg 
Saint-Honore),  11  A.M.,  3:30  and  8  P.M. 

Christ  Church,  49  Boulevard  Bineau,  Neuilly,  10:30 
A.M.  and  4  P.M. 

Church  of  England,  5  Rue  de  Bassins  (near  the  Arc 
de  Triomphe). 

Eglise  de  I'Etoile,  6  Avenue  de  la  Grande-Armee,  10 
A.M.  and  4  P.M. 

English  Congregational  Chapel,  23  Rue  Royale,  11:15 
A.M.  and  7:30  P.M. 

Church  of  Scotland.  17  Rue  Bayard  (Champs-Elysees). 

Wesleyan  Methodist  Church,  4  Rue  Roquepine  (near 
the  Madeleine)  11  A.M.  and  7:30  P.M. 

English  Roman  Catholic  Church,  50  Avenue  Hoche. 
174 


VERSAILLES. 


Versailles  is  situated  about  fourteen  miles  S.  W.  of 
Paris. 

Trains  run  from  the  gare  Saint-Lazare  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Seine  and  from  the  gare  Montpamasse  on 
the  left  bank — every  hour — from  thirty-five  to  fifty 
minutes'  ride. 

Tramways  run  every  hour  from  the  Quai  du  Louvre^ 
(Paris)  to  the  square  in  front  of  the  palace  (Versailles) 
— one  hour  and  thirty  minutes*  ride.  The  Palace  is 
within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  railway  stations, 
and  is  open  every  day  (Monday  excepted)  from  ten  to 
five  in  summer  and  from  eleven  to  four  in  winter. 

The  Palace  of  Versailles,  as  seen  from  the  court 
yard,  presents  a  less  imposing  aspect  than  from  the 
garden  side,  where  the  fagade  measures  one  thousand 
three  hundred  and  sixty  feet. 

The  most  interesting  points  of  interest  in  the  interior 
are  : 

The  Historical  Museum,  the  first  gallery  of  which, 
consisting  of  eleven  rooms,  contains  a  most  valuable 
collection  of  paintings  illustrative  of  the  principal  events 
in  the  history  of  France,  dating  from  Clovis  to  the  reign 
of  Louis  XVI. 

Salle  des  Croisades.^-The  walls  and  ceilings  of  which 
are  adorned  with  paintings,  armorial  bearings,  etc., 
relating  to  the  crusades. 

The  Sculpture  gallery  and  the  salle  de  Constantine. 

In  the  second  gallery,  consisting  of  ten  rooms  on  the 
first  floor,  are  to  be  seen  paintings  descriptive  of  his- 
torical events  from  1797  to  1835. 

175 


176  VERSAILLES. 

Salon  d'Hercule.  salle  des  Etats  Generaux  and  Salon 
de  la  Guerre. 

The  Galerie  des  Glaces. — From  its  windows  may  be 
had  a  splendid  view  of  the  park. 

Salle  du  Conseil  and  Salon  de  la  Paix. 

The  apartments  of  Louis  XIV.  and  the  Salle  de 
I'CEil-de-Boeuf. 

The  rich  and  highly  decorated  Appartements  de  la 
Reine  contain  David's  painting  of  the  coronation  of 
Napoleon  and  the  marble  staJtue  by  Vela  (last  moments 
of  Napoleon). 

Galerie  de  TEmpire  and  the  Grande  Galerie  des 
Batailles. 

The  gardens  behind  the  palace,  which  were  laid  out 
by  A.  Le  Notre,  the  most  celebrated  landscape  gardener 
of  his  time,  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  They  possess 
probably  the  most  splendid  fountains  to  be  found  any- 
where, the  working  of  which  is  estimated  at  an  aggre- 
gate cost  of  ten  thousand  francs  each  time  they  play. 

The  Grand  Trianon,  fifteen  minutes  walk  from  the 
terrace  of  the  palace,  was  built  by  Louis  XIV.  for 
Madame  de  Maintenon.  See  the  State  carriages  ex- 
hibited in  a  building  a  little  to  the  right. 

The  Petit  Trianon,  built  during  the  reign  of  Louis 
XV.,  was  the  favorite  resort  of  Marie  Antoinette,  who 
constructed  a  model  Swiss  village  in  the  adjoining 
gardens. 

The  Grand  and  Petit  Trianon  close  at  four  P.M. 


EN   PASSANT. 


It  is  always  the  best  plan  to  drink  the  wines  of  the 
country  through  which  you  are  travelling.  On  the 
Rhine,  drink  Rhine  wines  ;  on  the  Mosel,  take  wines 
named  after  that  river.  If  you  persist  in  having  French 
wine  in  Italy  you  will  have  to  pay  well  for  it ;  Italy 
charges  heavy  duty  on  all  wines  brought  across  her 
borders. 

At  railway  stations  in  the  States,  when  trains  are 
about  to  start,  conductors  call  out,  "All  aboard;"  in 
Italy  you  hear  "  Pronti ;  "  in  France  "  En  voiture  ;  "  in 
England,  the  more  polite,  "  Take  your  seats,  please." 

Everybody  in  Paris  who  passes  a  house  where  a 
funeral  is  being  conducted  raises  his  hat,  even  peddlers 
and  beggars  ;  so  does  every  driver  or  coachman  who 
passes  in  the  roadway.  It  is  a  mark  of  respect  for  the 
dead  and  of  sympathy  for  those  who  mourn.  Women 
cross  themselves.  The  same  custom  is  observed  if  a 
funeral  cortege  passes  you  in  the  street. 

Do  not  call  on  lawyers  at  their  offices,  nor  on  any- 
body socially,  in  Paris,  between  the  hours  of  twelve  and 
two  ;  everybody  at  that  time  is  taking  what  we  should 
call  our  luncheon,  what  they  call  their  breakfast,  or  de- 
jeuner a  la  fourchette.  They  take  it  easy  about  noon- 
time in  Paris,  but  they  begin  business  at  a  much  earlier 
hour  than  Londoners  do. 

In  London  and  New  York  omnibuses  the  charge  is 
the  same  whether  you  ride  outside  or  inside.  In  Edin- 
burgh you  pay  less  for  an  outside  seat.  In  Paris,  omni- 
bus fare  inside  is  thirty  centimes  ;  on  top  or  on  the  rear 
platform  it  is  only  twenty  centimes.  Women  often 
stand  on  the  platform  the  whole  distance. 

177 


178  EN  PASSANT. 

There  are  always  some  elegant  looking  voitures  stand- 
ing in  rue  Scribe  and  about  the  Opera,  in  Paris.  They 
are  so  handsome,  the  horses  so  sleek,  the  coachmen  are 
so  well  dressed,  the  whole  turnout  so  finely  equipped 
that  many  people  take  them  for  private  vehicles.  They 
are  for  hire,  all  the  same,  but  do  not  be  inveigled  into 
entering  one  with  the  idea  that  the  fare  is  the  same  as 
for  the  ordinary  or  cheaper  looking  victoria,  which 
may  be  had  for  two  francs  an  hour.  The  law  allows 
cabmen  to  charge  higher  when  they  are  called  from  a 
stand  than  if  hailed  or  "picked  up  "  on  the  street.  And 
you  need  not  be  surprised  if  one  of  these  expensively 
gotten-up  cockers  charges  you  at  the  rate  of  five  francs 
an  hour.  But  there  is  speed  in  the  horse,  there  is  com- 
fort on  the  back  seat  of  the  carriage,  and  the  whole 
turnout  makes  a  rather  stylish  and  private  looking 
affair  for  an  afternoon  drive  In  the  Bois.  A  dollar  an 
hour  for  such  a  vehicle  does  not  seem  exorbitant  to  a 
New  Yorker. 

Ask  a  gendarme  in  Paris  to  direct  you  to  a  certain 
location,  and  if  he  does  not  know  he  will  pull  out  of  his 
pocket  a  miniature  street  directory  and  give  you  the 
desired  information. 


TIPS  AND   DRINKS. 


Talk  about  "  tips  ;  "  at  all  drinking  places  of  any  pre- 
tension in  Paris  you  must  fee  the  man  who  brings  you  a 
glass  of  absinthe  or  lemonade.  In  the  sultry  days  of 
last  August  I  was  a  frequent  applicant  for  seltzer-lemo- 
nade at  "The  Bodega,"  on  the  comer  of  rue  de  Rivoli 
and  rue  Castiglione,  under  the  Hotel  Continental,  and  I 
obtained  some  information  from  one  of  the  waiters. 
Their  wages  are  very  small  and  the  living  expenses  of 
a  single  man  are  from  four  to  seven  francs  a  day. 
They  depend  entirely  on  fees.     The  Bodega  waiters  in 


EN  PASSANT,  179 

Paris  don't  care  about  their  own  countrymen  for  cus- 
tomers ;  they  like  Americans  better  than  people  of  any 
other  nationality.  Where  a  Frenchman  will  give  a  sou, 
an  Englishman  two  sous,  an  American  will  freely  hand 
out  half  a  franc,  or  a  franc,  if  he  is  treating  a  party  of 
three  or  four. 

At  many  places  of  public  entertainment  in  Paris,  at 
the  Cafe  de  la  Paix  and  at  a,place  of  different  character, 
the  Moulin  Rouge,  for  example,  they  have  a  system 
which  makes  it  impossible  for  waiters  to  overcharge 
you  as  do  waiters  in  a  few  restaurants  in  Regent  street 
and  the  lower  Strand.  In  these  Paris  drinking  places, 
upon  the  porcelain  saucer  which  holds  your  glass,  is 
printed  (burnt  in  colors)  the  price  of  your  order.  This 
method  makes  you  independent  of  the  waiter's  tricks. 
You  know  exactly  how  much  to  pay  him. 

In  pleasant  weather  you  do  not  enter  a  Paris  cafe  for 
liquid  refreshment,  day  or  night ;  all  Paris  is  out  of 
doors.  Thousands  of  people  sit  in  front  of  the  cafes 
and  sip  their  lager  or  coffee,  small  iron  tables  and 
chairs  being  supplied  for  the  purpose.  A  stranger  may 
express  surprise  at  the  high  price  charged  for  a  glass  of 
bock,  half  a  franc.  There  is  a  reason  for  the  high 
rate.  The  proprietor  or  lessee  of  the  cafe  has  to  pay 
for  the  privilege  of  occupying  space  on  the  sidewalk. 
Cafe  Brebant,  in  Boulevard  Poissoniere,  is  taxed  by  the 
city  five  thousand  francs  ;  Cafe  de  la  Paix,  on  the  Grand 
Hotel  block,  pays  twenty  thousand  francs  for  this 
privilege. 

RESTAURANT   PRICES. 

That  clever  magazinist,  Theodore  Child,  whose  un- 
timely death  all  readers  deplore,  probably  knew  more 
about  Paris  life  than  any  other  American.  In  discuss- 
ing the  restaurants  of  Paris,  he  wrote  :     "As  regards 


180  EN  PASS  A  NT. 

perfection  of  cooking,  the  Cafe  Anglais  heads  the  list, " 
This,  without  doubt,  was  true  when  Mr.  Child  wrote  it 
many  years  ago,  but  the  Cafe  Anglais  lives  now  on  its 
old  laurels.  Its  glory  has  departed.  Its  reputation  has 
gone  down,  while  its  prices  remain  up. 

I  tried  the  Cafe  Anglais  last  summer  for  a  modest 
breakfast,  and  this  was  mv  bill : 


Small  lamb  chop  and  fried  potatoes,  - 

fr.  2. GO 

Cup  of  coffee,           -           -           _ 

-      1.50 

Bread,       -           -           -  ;        -           . 

.50 

Butter,            -           -           - 

-         50 

New  York  Herald.         -           _           _ 

•15 

Fee  to  waiter,            -           _           . 

-         50 

frs.  5.15 

Here  was  over  one  dollar,  or,  if  you  deduct  the  waiter's 
fee,  about  one  dollar,  for  a  not  very  elaborate  meal.  I 
include  the  charge  for  newspaper  because  at  most  New 
York  restaurants  you  can  consult  a  daily  newspaper, 
which  is  supplied  free  by  the  proprietor.  The  charge 
for  a  cup  of  coffee  (thirty  cents  American  money)  I 
regard  as  quite  high,  considering  that  there  is  a  separate 
charge  for  bread  and  a  separate  charge  for  butter. 

With  a  chop,  potatoes  and  cup  of  coffee,  for  which  in 
the  States  you  would  have  to  pay  seventy  cents,  there 
would  be  no  charge  for  bread,  no  charge  for  butter. 
The  Cafe  Riche,  in  Boulevard  des  Italiens,  opposite 
Cafe  Anglais,  is  also  celebrated.  It  is  a  much  larger 
place  than  the  Cafe  Anglais,  not  so  quiet,  select  or 
stylish,  but  the  prices  are  lower.  The  Cafe  de  la  Paix, 
on  the  Avenue  de  I'Opera,  is  another  expensive  res- 
taurant. 

Indeed,  I  long  since  arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  the 
restaurants  of  London  and  Paris  are  dearer  than  our 
own  restaurants.  In  Paris  you  don't  get  a  good  cup  of 
tea  ;  in  London  you  seldom  get  a  good  cup  of  coffee. 


BY   SEA   TO    ITALY. 


Americans,  in  planning  a  winter  European  trip,  who 
include  Italy  in  their  itinerary,  will,  of  course,  either  go 
or  return  by  one  of  the  large  and  well-appointed  vessels 
of  the  North  German  Lloyd  line.  So  will  many  who 
have  no  desire  to  visit  Italy,  but  are  bound  for  Switzer- 
land, for  it  is  the  most  direct  and  a  most  interesting  way 
of  reaching  the  latter  country  ;  via  Genoa,  then  by  rail 
or  through  the  Italian  lakes  to  Lucerne  or  Geneva. 

The  Anchor  line,  three  years  ago,  made  a  bid  for  this 
Mediterranean  trade,  but  they  went  the  wrong  way  about 
it :  they  put  on  their  small  ships,  which  did  not  become 
popular  for  this  service,  and  the  company  soon  retired 
from  the  field. 

The  North  German  Lloyd  people,  undaunted  by  this 
failure,  put  into  the  service  such  vessels  as  The  Fuerst 
Bismarck,  the  Fulda  and  the  Werra,  each  over  five  thous- 
and tons  gross  tonnage,  and  success  from  the  start 
crowned  their  efforts.  Three  of  their  steamers  make 
this  trip  now,  winter  and  summer,  and  they  go  full,  as  a 
rule. 

The  voyage  to  Europe  this  way  is  far  more  interesting 
than  the  ordinary  route  across  the  Atlantic.  It  is  much 
longer,  over  four  thousand  miles,  lasting  eleA'en  days. 
This  is  an  advantage  to  those  who  go  for  health  and 
plea.sure,  and  there  is  a  feeling  of  safety  abottt  it,  as  I 
will  explain  presently.  But  the  voyage  does  not  seem 
anything  like  so  long  as  eleven  days  ;  it  is  so  varied  and 
broken.  You  are  only  out  of  sight  of  land  for  the  first 
four  or  five  days. 

Before  proceeding  furthef  let  me  offer  a  piece  of  ad- 
vice to  those  who  make  this  voyage  for  the  first  time. 

181 


183  BY  SEA   TO  ITALY. 

Even  in  midwinter  it  is  comparatively  warm,  but  in  the 
summer  months  summer  clothing  is  indispensable.  Dur- 
ing the  whole  voyage,  neither  in  day  time  nor  at  night, 
did  I  find  even  a  light  spring  overcoat  necessary,  and  I  was 
on  deck  all  day  and  every  evening  until  bed  time.  But 
here  are  a  few  "  figures,"  which,  it  is  said,  "  do  not  lie." 
The  thermometer  in  my  state-room,  during  the  whole 
voyage  between  New  York  and  Genoa,  never  marked 
lower  than  seventy-two  degrees,  and  this  with  the  port, 
door  and  upper  ventilator  wide  open.  The  same  instru- 
ment, in  the  open  air,  on  deck,  as  late  as  nine  P.  M. 
occasionally  marked  seventy-eight  degrees. 

Of  course  it  is  well  to  be  provided  with  rugs  and  wraps 
in  case  ot  necessity,  but  on  this  voyage  we  only  used 
rugs  for  a  couple  of  days.  Even  before  we  entered  the 
Mediterranean  the  officers  of  the  ship  changed  their 
blue  cloth  uniforms  for  white  linen  suits,  the  chief- 
engineer  accompanying  his  suit  with  a  white  cap  and 
-white  canvas  shoes.  They  are  a  fine,  manly  set  of  fel- 
lows, these  German  officers,  and  present  a  pleasing  ap- 
pearance in  their  white  suits.  You  would  judge  that  they 
had  had  military  training ;  their  walk  and  bearing  are 
soldierly  and  they  are  minus  the  sailor  step  and  swagger. 

All  of  the  passengers  who  possessed  light  suits  fol- 
lowed the  example  of  the  officers,  some  of  the  men 
leaving  off  their  waistcoats  and  the  women  appearing 
in  white  mull  or  thin  linen  blouses. 

On  the  fifth  day  out  from  New  York  you  pass  through 
the  Azores,  close  enough  to  see  the  vineyards  and  the 
buildings  on  one  island  and  the  white  surf  beating 
against  the  shores  of  two  of  the  islands. 

On  the  morning  of  the  eighth  day  you  sight  the  coast 
of  Portugal  and  a  little  later  in  the  day  you  exchange 
signals  with  Cape  St.  Vincent,  whence  the  name  and 
position  of  your  vessel  are  telegraphed  to  Gibraltar,  and 
from  there  flashed  over  two  continents. 

Cape  St.  Vincent  is  a  very  bold  promontory  with  a 


BV  SEA   TO  ITALY.  183 

powerful  light  and  large  lighthouse  which  is  visible  to 
the  naked  eye  from  the  ship.  Visible  also  is  a  large 
barracks  or  coast  guard  station,  originally  built  as  an 
observatory  and  long  tenanted  by  monks  who  devoted 
their  lives  to  the  study  of  astronomy.  A  few  miles  to 
the  east  of  this  bold  cape  is  Punta  Sagris  (Point  Sagris.) 

The  ninth  day,  having  left  the  Atlantic  ocean  and 
entered  the  Mediterranean  sea,  brings  you  through  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar.  It  is  a  delightful  experience  and 
a  never-to-be  forgotten  sight  if  you  make  the  Straits 
in  daylight,  as  we  did,  the  narrowest  point  being  only 
nine  miles  wide. 

The  land  on  both  sides  of  the  Straits  is  rather  motin- 
tainous.  On  the  European  side  you  have  the  rock  of 
Gibraltar  (the  ancient  "  Calpe  "),  one  thousand  four  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  on  the  African  side.  Ape's  Hill, 
("  Abyla  "  the  ancient),  a  mountain  facing  the  rock  and 
considerably  higher. 

To  be  strictly  accurate,  the  entrance  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean is  formed  by  Gibraltar  and  Ceuta,  a  Spanish 
colony  in  Africa  of  no  importance  except  that  it  is  the 
largest  penal  settlement  of  a  series  of  five  extending 
eastward  along  the  African  shore  to  almost  opposite  the 
French  frontier.  This  circumstance  will  explain  the 
jealous  care  with  which  France  and  Spain  watch  the 
course  of  events  in  the  decrepid  Moorish  empire,  the 
French  being  bent  upon  extending  their  Algerian  fron- 
tier westward  into  Morocco  and  the  Spaniards  desiring 
an  extension  in  an  opposite  direction. 

Having  passed  the  Straits  you  "  slow  down  "  and 
presently  drop  anchor  alongside  the  impregnable  rock 
of  Gibraltar,  for  which  the  British  fought  so  hard  and 
which  they  mean  to  retain.  They  use  it  only  as  a  gar- 
rison, and  at  this  time  have  about  six  thousand  soldiers 
there  under  the  command  of  Sir  Lothian  Nicholson,  of 
the  Royal  Engineers,  lately  Inspector-General  of  Fortifi- 
cations for  Great  Britain. 


184  BY  SEA   TO  ITALY. 

The  ships  of  the  line  under  notice  make  a  stop  at 
Gibraltar,  both  in  going  to  and  coming  from  Genoa,  and 
this  gives  all  cabin  passengers  an  opportunity  to  go 
ashore  for  a  few  hours  and  explore  the  quaint  old 
Spanish  town,  for  being  literally  in  Spain,  to  which 
nation  it  once  belonged,  it  is  still  Spanish  to  all  intents 
and  purposes,  with  this  important  exception — England 
owns  and  holds  it,  this  key  to  the  Mediterranean ; 
and  the  Union  Jack  waves  over  its  great  guns  and 
forts. 

In  one  or  two  particulars  Gibraltar  brings  to  mind  itey 
West,  Florida,  which,  although  belonging  to  the  United 
States,  was  once  Spanish  territory,  and  it  has  been 
called  by  one  writer  ' '  A  Cuban  City  in  the  United 
States."  As  in  Key  West,  both  the  Spanish  and  the 
English  languages  are  spoken ;  one  as  much  as  the 
other.  All  public  notices  are  printed  in  both  languages, 
and  almost  everybody  who  lives  at  Gibraltar  speaks 
both.  The  driver  will  be  explaining  certain  things  to 
you  in  very  fair  English  and  in  the  next  breath  he  will 
swear  at  a  fellow  driver  or  a  burro  in  very  hard  if  not 
very  bad  Spanish. 

Bui  here  the  similarity  ends,  for  the  cities  are  as  dif- 
ferent naturally  as  it  is  possible  for  two  places  to  be. 
Gibraltar,  as  we  all  know,  rises  from  the  sea  to  great 
heights,  and  is  surrounded  by  hills  ;  Key  West  is  a  low, 
flat,  level  island  ;  Gibraltar  is  hard  and  rocky  ;  Key 
West  is  soft  and  sandy.  All  the  houses  in  Gibraltar  are 
built  of  stone  and  will  stand  for  ages ;  in  Key  West  they 
are  wooden  shanties  which  a  very  strong  gust  of  wind 
might  blow  away.  The  streets  of  Key  West  are  unpaved 
and  dirty  :  the  streets  of  Gibraltar  are  hard  and  remark- 
ably clean.  Key  West,  for  a  part  of  the  year  at  least, 
is  not  considered  healthy ;  Gibraltar  is  a  winter  sana- 
torium. 

The  climate  of  Gibraltar  has  some  qualities  like  those 
of  certain  parts  of  Southern  California.     Snow  is  never 


BV  SEA   TO  ITALY.  185 

seen  in  Gibraltar,  and  ice  only  when  it  is  brought  there. 
The  climate  is  equable — temperature  rarely  over  ninety  ; 
never  below  forty.  They  have  their  winter,  which  is 
marked  by  rains  ;  on  the  other  hand,  months  of  summer 
pass  without  rain.  They  grow  fruits  in  plenty — apples, 
oranges,  lemons  in  great  profusion,  figs  and  the  pome- 
granate. 

Gibraltar  is  an  extraordinary  fortress  ;  absolutely  im- 
pregnable and  in  a  position,  incredible  though  it  may 
appear,  to  sink  any  battle  ship  of  the  present  day.  In 
slang  parlance  Gibraltar  is  "  up  to  date."  Three  batteries 
have  just  been  built  on  the  summit  of  the  rock,  whence 
the  artillery  can  drop  shot  and  shell,  vertically  if  neces- 
sary and  directly  on  the  deck  of  any  ship  which  might 
have  the  temerity  to  attack  the  fort. 

The  principal  street  of  Gibraltar,  Waterport  street, 
has  a  decidedly  cosmopolitan  appearance.  You  see  the 
costumes  of  many  different  nationalities,  not  only  of 
Europe  but  the  costumes  of  Africa — Spanish,  English 
Arabs  and  Turks.  This  feature  helps  to  make  it  pictu- 
resque in  the  extreme.  They  drink  goats'  milk,  the 
animals  being  driven  up  to  your  door  and  milked  into 
your  own  vessels. 

I  remember  remarking,  a  year  or  two  ago,  in  an  article 
entitled  "  London  on  Wheels,"  that  England  was  the 
only  place  I  knew  of  where  they  drive  to  the  left.  I 
had  not  then  been  to  Gibraltar,  nor  to  Genoa  or  Flor- 
ence. That  English  peculiarity  (not  British,  mind  you) 
has  skipped  Scotland  and  Ireland  and  planted  itself  in 
the  three  cities  named.  If  on  the  road  a  carriage  driver 
in  Gibraltar  meets  a  boy  who  is  driving  or  riding  on  the 
wrong  side  of  the  road,  both  the  boy  and  his  patient 
burro  will  feel  the  thong  of  the  irate  driver's  whip. 
You  notice  the  same  brutality  here  towards  dumb 
animals  which  pains  you  in  other  parts  of  Spain,  in 
Havana,  yes,  and  in  Paris.  There  is  room  in  Gibraltar 
for  a  branch  of  the  Royal  Humane  Society  of  London,  or 


186  BY  SEA   TO  ITALY. 

the  society  with  the  too  long  name  which  Henry  Bergh 
founded  in  New  York. 

Gibraltar  is  the  only  place  I  know  of  where  increase 
of  population  is  not  desired — it  is,  indeed,  not  allowed. 
The  population  is  stationary.  For  several  years  it  has 
been  twenty  thousand,  and  it  is  the  same  to-day.  You 
cannot  enter  the  place  for  a  temporary  visit,  even,  with- 
out a  permit,  and  if  it  is  your  desire  to  reside  there  per- 
manently, permission  is  not  accorded.  England  keeps 
it  simply  for  garrison  purposes  and  does  not  invite  immi- 
gration. 

There  are  a  few  acres  just  outside  of  the  fortifications 
which  belong  neither  to  Spain  nor  England.  The  plot 
is  neither  public  nor  private  property,  but  is  kept  as 
neutral  ground  to  divide  the  border  line  and  ' '  keep  the 
peace." 

Within  a  mile  of  Gibraltar  is  the  Spanish  town  of 
Linea  de  la  Concepcion,  which,  owing  to  the  restrictions 
upon  foreigners  and  strangers  desiring  to  establish  them- 
selves in  Gibraltar,  is  rapidly  increasing  in  population 
and  importance. 

There  are  two  theatres  (so-called)  in  Gibraltar,  but 
none  in  the  Spanish  town  hard  by.  Linea  makes  up  for 
this  omission  by  having  a  bull-ring  which  accommodates 
twenty  thousand  spectators.  The  bull  fights  occur  in 
summer  only  and  on  Sundays,  of  course. 

To  come  back  to  the  vessel  again,  you  next  sight 
Cape  de  Gatt,  near  which  is  Almeria,  which  sends  quanti- 
ties of  its  grapes  to  the  States.  Then  come  the  Sierra 
Nevadas,  and  for  scores  of  miles,  for  hours  and  h  ours, 
you  keep  in  view  snow-capped  mountains. 

On  the  tenth  day  out  3^ou  pass  the  Balearic  Islands, 
named  Yviza,  Majorca  (the  largest),  and  Minorca  (the 
smallest). 

On  the  morning  of  the  eleventh  day,  in  the  Riviera, 
you  sail  along  the  southern  French  coast,  passing  Mar- 
seilles, Nice,  Monte  Carlo,  Cannes,  Mentone,  etc.,  getting 


BV  SEA   TO  ITALY.  lOT 

a  fairly  distinct  vietv  from  the  ship  of  the  churches, 
hotels  and  large  buildings  in  those  places.  These  cities 
are  backed  by  the  Maritime  Alps,  some  of  which  are 
still  snow-covered,  and  this  grand  panorama,  as  viewed 
from  the  deck  of  a  moving  steamer,  you  will  please 
imagine,  as  these  notes,  made  en  route,  are  mere  "  hurry- 
graphs,"  a  phrase  coined  by  N.  P.  Willis.  The  reader 
will  fill  in  the  picture  for  himself.  In  a  hasty  article, 
away  from  my  desk  and  accustomed  haunts,  I  can  only 
sketch  the  merest  outline  of  these  impressive  and  beau- 
tiful scenes. 

At  last  you  are  under  Italian  skies.  The  German  flag 
is  raised  to  the  peak  of  one  mast,  the  Stars  and  Stripes 
are  hoisted  to  the  main  truck  of  another,  to  the  top  of  a 
third  goes  the  flag  of  the  North  German  Lloyd — blue 
key  and  anchor,  on  a  white  ground.  The  captain  is  on 
the  bridge,  with  a  marine  glass  in  his  hand. 

Long  before  you  reach  the  bay  of  Genoa  the  white 
buildings  of  the  city  come  in  view,  and  these,  backed  by 
the  hills  and  the  fortresses  on  them  form  a  bold  and  strik- 
ing picture.  In  entering  the  harbor  you  will  not  fail  to 
notice  six  ironclads  of  the  Italian  navy.  They  look  as 
if  they  might  be  able  to  give  a  good  account  of  them- 
selves if  a  dispute  occurred. 

The  Fulda  cannot  boast  of  a  twin  screw,  nor  has  she 
triple  expansion  engines,  as  some  of  the  later  ships  of 
this  line  have,  but  there  are  electric  lights  and  other 
modem  improvements,  and  her  staterooms  are  large  and 
comfortable.  Probably  no  steadier  ship  crosses  the 
ocean.  Even  when  there's  a  "a  little  sea  on," and  when 
other  vessels  might  roll  or  pitch,  there  is  very  little 
motion  to  the  Fulda. 

The  Fulda's  commander,  Captain  Thalenhorst,  is  tall, 
well  formed,  erect,  with  a  decided  military  bearing,  but 
every  inch  a  sailor,  and  very  much  of  a  gentleman. 
Unlike  many  of  the  bluff  English  captains,  he  not  only 
attends  to  the  sailing  of  the  ship  but  attends  also  to  the 


1^-  BY  SEA   TO  ITALY. 

wishes  and  comforts  of  the  passengers,  and  eagerly 
watches  for  opportunities  to  entertain  them,  playing 
host  as  if  they  were  his  invited  guests. 

On  English  ships  the  decks  are  washed  at  night  or  in 
the  small  hours  of  the  morning,  and  for  this  reason,  even 
if  the  sea  be  smooth,  all  stateroom  ports  are  closed  at 
night,  making  the  air  stuffy  and  close,  producing  white 
tongue  and  a  headache  in  the  morning.  Captain  Thalen- 
horst  manages  things  differently.  He  washes  his  decks 
in  midday,  and  so  the  ports  are  only  closed,  unless  such 
action  is  demanded  by  the  ,^'eather,  while  the  passen- 
gers are  at  lunch  or  dinner.  And  this  illustrates  his 
spirit  of  accommodation.  He  seems  to  have  adopted 
the  motto  of  the  Leland  family  of  hotel-keepers :  "  We 
Study  to  Please." 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  COLUMBUS. 


Letters  written  to  or  received  by  Shakespeare  are  in 
existence.  I  saw  one  last  summer  at  Strat£ord-on-Avon. 
It  reminded  me  of  letters  of  Robert  Bums  which  I  had 
seen — in  the  Burns  Monument  in  Edinburgh,  because 
in  both  cases  the  letters  touched  on  matters  of  money. 
In  the  Scotch  poet's  case  he  would  be  a  borrower ;  in 
that  of  the  English  poet  he  was  begged  to  lend  money. 
Burns  was  always  poor ;  Shakespeare,  besides  being  a 
great  poet,  was  practical,  notwithstanding  the  state- 
ment of  some  philosophers  that  the  two  qualities  are 
not  found  together. 

Letters  in  Shakespeare's  hand  are  not  in  existence,  so 
I  was  informed  at  Stratford,  unless  there  be  one,  as  I 
believe  there  is,  at  the  British  Museum,  As  to  the  por- 
traits of  the  bard,  nothing  satisfactorily  definite  is 
known  as  to  their  authenticity.  Who  knows  where 
Homer  first  saw  the  light  of  day  ? 

But  I  fancy  that  I  hear  the  reader  ask  what  has  all 
this  irrelevant  prattle  about  Burns,  Shakespeare  and 
Homer  to  do  with  the  title  of  the  article?  Not  much, 
to  be  sure,  only  the  question  of  the  birthplace  of 
Columbus  is  as  much  unsettled  as  one  of  the  preceding 
points,  or  as  the  year  in  which  he  was  born.  Genoa, 
among  other  Italian  cities,  claims  to  be  the  birthplace 
of  Columbiis,  with  proof  to  substantiate  her  claim,  but 
there  are  also  several  houses  in  Genoa,  each  of  which  is 
said  to  be  the  house  in  which  the  renowned  Christopher 
Columbus  first  saw  the  light  of  day.  Landing  at  Genoa 
last  July  from  the  deck  of  the  Fulda,  I  gave  the  matter 

189 


THE  COLUMBUS  HOUSE. 


190 


THE  BIRTHPLACE  OF  COLUMBUS.         191 

as  much  time  as  I  could  afford  in  my  brief  tour  of  Italy. 
And  then  the  temperature  of  an  Italian  July  interfered 
with  my  discoveries  concerning  the  discoverer. 

I  may  not,  after  all,  have  seen  the  house  in  which 
Columbus  was  bom,  although  it  was  pointed  out  to  me 
in  different  parts  of  the  town,  but  I  did  find  the  house 
in  which  lived  for  many  years  Domenico  Colombo,  the 
father  of  Columbus,  and  the  Great  Admiral  himself. 
It  is  numbered  37  in  the  Vico  Dritto  Ponticello.  Imme- 
diately next  door,  one  way,  is  numbered  35,  a  small 
grocery  shop  ;  directly  next  door  again,  on  the  other 
side,  is  numbered  69,  a  little  shoe  shop. 

You  may  drive  to  "  the  top  of  the  street,"  as  they  say 
in  London,  but  not  through  the  street.  It  is  not  wide 
enough  for  a  vehicle  to  pass  through,  unless  that 
vehicle  is  a  baby-carriage  or  donkey-cart,  for  the  high- 
sounding  Vico  Dritto  Ponticello,  be  it  known,  is  only 
fifteen  feet  wide. 

Our  driver  was  good  enough  to  leave  his  horse  and 
carriage  at  the  said  "top  of  the  street,"  for  which  rest 
thus  obtained  the  poor,  abused  animal  was  no  doubt 
duly  thankful.  With  the  driver  we  stayed  a  long  time 
in  front  of  the  house,  examining  it  closely  and  copying 
the  inscription,  and  when  we  returned  to  his  steed  the 
driver  found  himself  under  arrest  for  abandoning  his 
horse,  leaving  him  alone  in  the  public  highway.  I  used 
some  silvery  language  in  explaining  to  the  policeman 
the  reason  for  the  delay  and  then  we  were  allowed  to 
proceed.  And  this  brings  to  mind  a  saying  of  my  dear 
mother's,  when  I  used  to  remark  that  I  could  not  make 
myself  clearly  understood  in  a  foreign  tongue  :  ' '  My 
son,  you  have  that  in  your  pocket  which  speaks  in  all 
languages." 

The  municipal  policemen  of  Genoa  are  not  much 
more  than  half  the  size  and  weight  of  members  of  the 
Broadway  squad,  but  they  look  very  neat  and  tidy  in 
their  black  caps  and  black  cloth  suits,  minus  metal  but- 


192         THE  BIR  TUP  LA  CE  OF  COL  UMB  US. 

tons.  The  coat  is  made  single-breasted  with  skirts 
reaching  below  the  calf  of  the  leg.  He  had  an  eye  for 
form,  did  the  man  who  designed  this  uniform  ;  it  gives 
a  little  more  height  to  the  little  Italian. 

London  and  New  York  policemen  carry  clubs ;  gen- 
darmes of  Paris  threaten  with  a  small  sword ;  the 
municipal  police  of  Genoa  protect  themselves  with  a 
stick  or  mace  over  four  feet  long.  It  is  highly  polished 
and  resembles  a  Malacca  cane.  The  long  stick  has  a 
silver  top  upon  which  these  words  are  engjaved  :  * '  Re- 
spect the  Law. "  • 

But  this  is  not  getting  to  the  house  in  the  Vico  Dritto 
Ponticello.  You  will  have  no  difficulty  in  getting  to  it 
in  Genoa  if  you  find  your  way  to  the  First  Gate  of  the 
old  city,  to  the  City  Prison  or  to  the  ancient  church 
which  Columbus  built.  These  buildings  are  very  near 
the  spot. 

Nearly  all  of  the  surrounding  houses  are  of  six  or 
seven  stories ;  No.  37  is  five  stories  high  and  barely 
twelve  feet  wide.  It  has  a  very  plain,  undecorated 
front  of  stucco,  which  is  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 

The  windows  have  Venetian  blinds,  painted  green. 
The  main  entrance  is  through  a  double  door  of  iron  and 
there  is  a  side  door  which  was  probably  used  by  the 
servants  of  the  family.  On  the  door  is  an  iron  ring 
four  inches  long,  which  was  evidently  used  for  the 
double  purpose  of  handle  and  knocker.  About  fifteen 
feet  from  the  ground  there  is  a  white  marble  tablet, 
three  feet  by  two  feet,  in  which  this  inscription  is  cut 
in  old-fashioned  Roman  characters  : 

Nulla  Domus  Titulo  Dignor 

Heic 

Paternis  in  Aedibus 

Christophorus  Columbus 

Pueritiam 

Primamque  Juventam  Transegfit. 


THE  BIR  THPL  A  CE  OF  COL  UMB  US.         193 
HOTEL   DE  GENES,    GENOA. 

G«noa,  the  most  important  town  in  Italy  from  a  com- 
mercial point  of  view,  has  increased  in  importance,  at 
least  for  Americans,  now  that  the  North  German  Lloyd 
line  sends  its  fine  steamers  hither.  It  has  good  hotel 
accommodation.  The  largest,  best  appointed  and  most 
expensive  house  is  The  Isota,  on  the  principal  thorough- 
fare, convenient  to  many  points  of  interest.  But  a  very 
comfortable  and  modest  house  is  the  Hotel  Genoa,  or, 
to  give  its  title  in  full,  the  Grand  Hotel  de  Genes.  It 
has  fifty  years'  reputation.  It  is  in  the  most  central 
part  of  the  city — in  via  Carlo  Felice,  and  fronts  on  a 
large  square.  Piazza  Deferrari,  whence  you  can  take  a 
car  to  the  Campo  Santo  (the  famous  cemetery),  the 
grand  palaces,  the  noted  churches,  the  Exposition 
grounds — to  all  the  principal  sights,  in  fact.  The  Teatro 
Carlo  Felice  is  on  one  side  of  the  piazza,  the  post  office 
is  but  a  step  away,  on  Via  Roma,  one  of  the  principal 
shopping  streets,  which  leads  to  the  statue  of  Victor 
Emmanuel  and  the  public  gardens. 

The  Hotel  de  Genes  is  solidly  constructed;  the  stairs  are 
of  white  marble  and  the  floors  of  the  bed  rooms  are  laid 
in  mosaic  marble.  They  are  warm  enough  and  require 
nothing  over  them  in  summer  time  in  the  way  of  carpets. 
The  house  has  electric  lights  and  an  elevator.  The  rates 
at  Hotel  de  Genes  are  :  breakfast,  one  and  a  half  lire  ; 
luncheon,  four  lire  ;  dinner,  five  lire  ;  rooms  according 
to  size  and  location,  from  five  lire  per  day — a  lire  being 
equal  to  a  franc,  say  twenty  cents.  Among  the  guests 
whose  names  have  appeared  on  the  books  within  the 
past  few  years  are  the  Duchess  of  Talleyrand,  the  Earl 
of  Carnarvon,  the  Princess  of  Battenberg,  the  Count 
and  Countess  Schouvaloff  of  Russia  ;^De  Struve,  Russian 
Ambassador  to  the  United  States  ;  Baron  Adolphe  De 
Rothschild  ;  Prince  Hohenzollern  and  suite,  and  a  host 
of  other  titled  and  distinguished  people. 


194  THE  BIR  THPLA  CE  OF  COL  UMB  US. 

The  Hotel  de  Genes  has  accommodation  for  more  than 
one  hundred  guests.  Proprietors,  Bonera  Freres  ;  tele- 
graphic and  cable  address  :   "  Bonera,  Genes." 


HOTEL  ROYAL  DANIELI,  VENICE. 


There  is  good  hotel  accommodation  in  Venice ;  among 
the  leading  houses  are  the  Grand  Hotel,  Hotel  de 
L'Europe,  Hotel  Brittannia, '  and,  to  mention  it  last, 
though  it  is  one  of  the  first  in  size  and  appointments, 
the  Hotel  Royal  Danieli.  Its  situation,  directly  on  the 
border  of  the  lagoon  and  the  Grand  Canal,  aflEords  fine 
water  views  and  landscape  pictures. 

The  house  is  centrally  located.  The  Doge's  Palace, 
with  its  wonderful  pictures  and  frescoes,  and  the  Piazza 
St.  Marco  (the  great  square)  are  but  a  few  hundred 
yards  distant,  while  the  steamboat  wharf  where  you 
embark  for  the  Lido,  a  pretty  place  one  half  hour  dis- 
tant on  the  shores  of  the  Adriatic,  is  almost  at  the  front 
door  of  the  hotel.  Thirty  minutes'  sail  to  the  Lido  where 
you  bathe  in  the  open  sea. 

Hotel  Danieli  was  once  a  palace,  the  residence  of  Doge 
Dondalo.  I  am  speaking  of  what  was  the  case  five 
hundred  years  ago ;  just  think  of  it — before  Columbus 
was  born. 

They  knew  how  to  build  in  those  days,  for  the  palatial 
structure  shows  no  signs  of  wear.  You  might  sitppose 
it  was  erected  only  half  a  century  ago.  Of  course, 
parts  of  it  are  occasionally  "  restored  "  and  renovated. 

One  of  the  salons  is  a  gorgeous  apartment  in  size  and 
decoration,  and  would  not  discredit  a  palace  of  the 
present  day.  It  is  forty-one  by  nineteen  feet,  with  a 
heavily  decorated  ceiling  twenty-six  feet  high.  The 
great  doors  of  this  noble  apartment  are  set  in  heavy 
marble  casings  heavier  and  richer  than  the  marble  cas- 


THE  SIR  THPLA  CE  OF  COL  UMB  US.         196 

ings  which  surround  the  doors  and  windows  of  the 
palace  which  A.  T.  Stewart  built  in  New  York,  and 
which  is  now  the  home  of  the  Manhattan  Club.  Above 
each  door  is  a  massive  ducal  crown,  gold  on  a  green 
ground,  extending  from  the  door  casing  to  the  ceiling. 
The  sofas  and  chairs  of  the  salon  are  unusually  large,  to 
be  in  keeping  with  the  great  apartment ;  they  are  richly 
gilded  and  upholstered  in  green  velvet. 

There  are  two  lifts  in  the  house,  also  a  railway  office. 
You  can  purchase  your  tickets  and  have  your  luggage 
registered  before  you  leave — a  convenience  no  other 
hotel  in  Venice  offers.  You  and  your  luggage  are  taken 
to  the  railway  station  in  a  gondola  into  which  you  step 
from  the  door  of  the  hotel.  The  Hotel  Danieli  accommo- 
dates three  hundred  guests.  Single  rooms  from  three 
to  six  francs ;  breakfast,  two  francs  ;  luncheon,  four 
francs ;  table  d'hote  dinner,  five  francs,  which  does  not 
include  wine.     Proprietors,  Genovesi  &  Campi. 


THE    HOTELS    OF    LUCERNE, 
SWITZERLAND. 


There  is  probably  a  greater  number  of  large  and 
finely  appointed  hotels  in  Lucerne  than  in  any  other 
place  of  its  size  in  either  hemisphere. 

Lucerne,  situated  on  "the  lake  of  the  four  Cantons," 
with  the  summits  of  Mount  Pilatus  and  the  Rigi  within 
very  easy  reach  by  railway,  is  a  great  rendezvous  and 
centre  for  tourists,  several  railway  lines  having  their 
terminus  here.  Steamboats?  start  from  here  for  all 
points  on  the  lake. 

In  a  few  hours  by  rail,  through  the  St.  Gothard  tun- 
nel, over,  under  and  around  the  mountains,  and  along 
the  edges  of  some  wondrously  beautiful  Swiss  and 
Italian  lakes,  you  reach  Milan,  the  views  en  route  being 
sublimely  grand.  In  another  direction  Paris  is  reached 
in  less  than  twelve  hours  by  day  or  night. 

For  its  size,  again,  it  is  probably  more  cosmopolitan 
than  any  other  town  in  the  world.  All  the  residents 
speak  German  and  French,  and  everybody  in  the  pviblic 
places  knows  enough  of  English  to  make  himself  or 
herself  understood.  I  refer  to  shopkeepers,  hotel- 
keepers,  chambermaids,  cabbies,  etc.  The  flags  of  all 
nations  are  seen  at  different  times  on  the  rowboats 
hired  by  strangers  who  represent  the  different  nation- 
alities. The  German  and  French  flags  predominate ;  next 
in  number  come  the  Union  Jack  and  Stars  and  Stripes. 

The  leading  hotels  of  Lucerne  proper  are  all  clustered 
near  each  other,  not  far  from  the  railway  station,  the 
steamboat  landing  and  the  Kursaal,  or  Music  Hall. 

The  Schweizerhof,  accommodating  six  hundred 
guests,  will  compare  in  its  appointments  with  the  hotels 
at  leading  summer  resorts  elsewhere ;  not  with  the 
Metropole  at  Brighton,  England,  nor  with  the  "  States  " 
at  Saratoga,  but  it  ranks  in  the  first  class. 

196 


HO  TELS  OF  L  UCERNE,  S  WITZERLA ND.     197 

The  Lucenihof,  which  is  next  door  to  and  connected 
with  the  Schweizerhof  and  under  the  same  management, 
is  also  a  large  and  well  appointed  house.  By  the  way,  in 
Miss  Braddon's  last  work,  "  The  Venetians,"  there  is  a 
reference  to  the  Schweizerhof.  In  the  Tauchnitz  edi- 
tion, which  does  not,  as  a  rule,  find  its  way  to  the 
United  States,  appears  this  paragraph  in  Volume  2.  p.  96 : 

"They  loitered  by  the  gjeat  Swiss  lake  until  the 
October  mists  began  to  make  Pilatus  invisible.  They 
lingered  tmder  Mr.  Hauser's  hospitable  roof  so  long  that 
the  gjeat  St.  Bernard  lifted  his  head  and  howled  an 
agonizing  farewell  when  the  carriage  drove  oif  to  the 
station  with  Eve  and  her  husband." 

Since  the  book  was  written  and  printed  both  the 
master  and  his  faithful  dog  have  passed  away.  But  Mr. 
Hauser  left  two  sons,  and  they  seem  to  have  inherited 
some  of  their  father's  popularity.  At  all  events  the 
Schweizerhof  does  a  prosperous  summer  business. 
During  the  height  of  the  season  it  is  not  only  full,  but 
its  overflow  frequently  helps  to  fill  other  houses. 

The  National  is  probably  not  so  much  talked  of  as  the 
Schweizerhof.  The  latter  is  indeed  the  only  hotel  in 
Lucerne  that  is  mentioned  by  gfuide-book  Murray ;  it 
owes  its  prestige  doubtless  to  its  age  and  its  association 
with  the  early  history  of  Lucerne  as  a  resort  for  tourists. 
But  the  National  is  not  only  not  excelled  by  any  hotel  in 
Lucerne,  but  is  probably  the  finest  hotel  structure  in 
Switzerland.  It  occupies  a  whole  block,  with  its  grand 
front  overlooking  the  lake,  down  to  the  edge  of  which  the 
grounds  of  the  National  gracefully  slope.  The  structure 
is  of  stone,  and  its  public  rooms  are  magnificent. 

The  Hotel  de  L'Europe  is  a  pleasant  house  about  a 
mile  from  the  business  part  of  the  town.  It  stands  in 
its  own  well  shaded  groimds,  on  a  main  drive. 

A  few  steps  from  the  National  Hotel  and  the  Kursaal 
is  the  Beau  Rivage  Hotel,  not  too  long  a  walk  from  rail- 
way or  steamboat  and  yet  in  a  quiet  and  beautiful  loca- 


198  HO  TELS  OF  L  UCERNE,  S  WITZERLA  ND. 

tion,  affording  choice  views  of  the  lake  and  surrotinding 
mountains.  The  Beau  Rivage  was  erected  twenty-three 
years  ago,  but  the  house  has  since  been  greatly  im- 
proved. New  public  rooms  have  been  constructed,  the 
plumbing  is  new  and  so  is  the  furniture. 

The  Beau  Rivage,  as  before  remarked,  is  in  a  quiet 
neighborhood,  and  moreover,  it  is  a  very  select  house, 
well  suited  for  families  for  a  protracted  stay.  If  you  want 
brass  bands  and  high  life  it  is  easy  to  enjoy  them  for  an 
hour  or  the  whole  evening.  Step  across  to  the  National  or 
to  one  of  the  other  large  hotefe  down  the  street,  and  you 
will  soon  be  in  the  midst  of  a  bustling  and  busy  life. 

A  feature  with  the  National,  the  Beau  Rivage  and  the 
Sch weizerhof  is  that  each  of  these  three  hotels  has  a 
library  of  several  hundred  choice  volumes  for  the  use  of 
its  guests.  The  books  are  uniformly  bound  and  each  one 
bears  the  name  of  the  hotel  on  the  cover,  in  gold  letters. 

But  the  Beau  Rivage  has  another  feature  which  is 
altogether  unique  in  hoteldom,  so  far  as  my  experience 
goes.  It  has  its  own  fish  ponds — fish  ponds  in  the  house. 
The  manager  argues  that  trout  only  make  a  perfect  dish 
when  they  are  perfectly  fresh,  so  he  has  a  couple  of 
troiit  tanks  in  the  basement  in  which  fresh  water  is 
flowing  constantly  and  in  which  a  good  supply  of  trout 
and  a  few  other  kinds  of  fish  are  kept. 

There  are  two  tanks,  each  about  three  feet  wide  by 
four  feet  long  and  three  feet  high.  Beside  them  con- 
veniently stands  a  hand  net.  Does  a  guest  order  a  dish 
of  trout }  The  chefs  assistant  is  quickly  transformed 
into  a  disciple  of  Izaak  Walton  and,  luck  or  no  luck,  he 
will  very  quickly  "  land  "  as  many  fish  as  may  be  re- 
quired. I  have  since  learned  that  there  is  a  hotel  in 
Bale  which  also  has  its  tanks  and  keeps  its  fish  alive, 
ready  to  be  caught. 

The  manager  of  the  Beau  Rivage,  Mr.  Richert,  has 
had  hotel  experience  in  London ;  he  was  for  ten  years 
in  a  Nice  hotel,  and  to  quote  a  slang  expression  that  was 


HO  TELS  OF  L  UCERNE,  S  WITZERLAND.    199 

cuiTent  in  New  York  some  years  ago,  he  "  knows  how 
to  keep  a  hotel." 

The  rates  at  Lucerne  hotels  are  not  high.  At  the 
majority  of  the  leading  houses  these  figures  rule  • — 
Rooms,  from  three  and  a  half  francs ;  breakfast,  one 
and  a  half  francs ;  luncheon,  three  and  a  half  francs ; 
table  d'hote  dinner,  five  francs,  without  wine.  These 
figures,  at  the  Beau  Rivage,  Schweizerhof  and  some 
other  hotels,  include  lights  and  service  ;  at  the  National 
these  items  are  charged  for  separately  as  "  extras." 

The  Beau  Rivage  is  open  from  April  to  October,  the 
National  and  Schweizerhof  are  open  the  entire  year. 

In  some  of  the  Swiss  hotels  you  not  only  place  outside 
your  door  on  retiring,  your  shoes,  but  your  clothes  also — 
those  which  you  wish  brushed.  A  hook  is  placed  on  the 
'door-casing  on  which  to  hang  your  clothes. 

They  will  cheat  you  at  the  railway  stations  in  Italy,  if 
they  can,  and  the  officials  on  steamboats  which  ply  the 
Swiss  lakes  will  try  to  overcharge  you  if  they  discover 
that  you  are  not  familiar  with  the  charges  or  with  the 
current  coins.  If  you  are  making  much  of  a  tour  in 
countries  whose  language  you  do  not  understand,  by 
far  the  best  plan,  is  to  purchase  tickets  of  Cook  or  Gaze. 
You  pay  these  agents  only  the  regular  fares,  and  hold- 
ing their  tickets  saves  you  a  deal  of  time,  trouble  and 
annoyance.  In  the  stations  of  all  the  principal  cities  of 
Italy  and  Switzerland  you  will  find  a  Cook  agent  in  uni- 
form, with  the  word  "  Cook"  in  large  silver  letters  on 
his  black  cap.  He  will  aid  you  in  registering  and  hand- 
ling your  baggage,  he  will  secure  for  you  the  best  seats 
in  the  train,  and  otherwise  make  himself  useful — without 
a  fee.  His  employer  receives  a  commission  from  the 
railway  companies.  About  travelling  with  Cook's  par- 
ties I  know  nothing  except  from  hearsay,  but  I  have 
purchased  and  used  Cook's  tickets,  and  heartily  recom- 
mend others  to  do  so — those  more  particularly  who  are 
not  linguists.  But  in  any  and  every  case  you  save  an- 
noyance and  confusion  at  the  stations. 


THE  DE  SOTO. 

SAVANNAH,  GEORGIA. 


The  city  of  Savannah,  with  its  balmy  air,  its  far  famed 
Bonaventure  Cemetery,  its  pretty  parks,  broad  streets 
and  many  natural  attractions  (acknowledged  to  be  one 
of  the  most  attractive  Southern  cities),  was  long  avoided 
by  many  pleasure  tourists,  because  it  had  no  hotel 
worthy  of  a  city  claiming  fifty  thousand  inhabitants  and 
doing  a  business  of  over  one  hundred  and  thirty  millions 
of  dollars  annually. 

Savannah  is  the  greatest  cotton  port  in  the  world — 
New  Orleans  excepted.  Savannah  has  deep  water  and 
good  docks.  Sometimes  as  many  as  thirty  English  ships 
are  in  this  port  at  the  same  time.  They  take  cotton  di- 
rect to  foreign  ports.  Savannah  is  easily  approached 
from  North  and  South  :  presently  it  is  to  have  communi- 
cation with  the  west — direct  from  Kansas  City.  When 
these  and  other  contemplated  improvements  are  made, 
Savannah  expects  to  experience  an  era  of  great  pros- 
perity. It  is  predicted  that  the  city  wU  double  its  popu- 
lation in  the  next  ten  years. 

300 


SAVANNAH,  GEORGIA.  301 

Anyone  who  doubts  that  Savannah  is  steadily  moving 
forward  in  prosperity  has  only  to  take  a  glimpse  at  the 
tax  returns  made  to  the  city  treasurer  for  1891,  to  hav^e 
the  doubt  quickly  dispelled.  In  1890,  the  returns  of 
personal  property  footed  up  $9,948,048,  and  in  1891  they 
were  considerably  over  $10,000,000,  the  increase  being 
about  $500,000.  The  banks  alone  in  '91  made  returns  of 
$506,000  in  excess  of  1890.  This  shows  that  there  is  a 
great  demand  for  banking  institutions.  Real  estate  has 
increased  $1,300,000. 

Such  being  the  present  condition  and  future  prospects 
of  Savannah,  it  w^as  time  that  some  movement  were 
made  for  the  better  entertainment  of  visitors,  so  at  last 
the  citizens  put  their  heads  together  and  concluded  that 
no  matter  how  rich  a  city  is  in  natural  attractions,  the 
climax  of  success  is  only  capped  by  railway  facilities  and 
first  class  hotels. 

Mr.  H.  B.  Plant,  head  of  the  Plant  System,  furnished 
the  railway  facilities,  and  now  the  citizens  of  Savannah 
have  supplied  the  hotel.  They  formed  a  stock  com- 
pany, subscribed  a  million  of  dollars  and  opened  the  De 
Soto,  two  ye^rs  ago,  which  proved  to  be  exteriorly  one 
of  the  handsomest  houses  in  this  country,  if  not  in  the 
world,  and  interiorly  one  of  the  best  appointed— in 
keeping  wnth  the  American  idea. 

Savannah  never  had  a  habit  of  going  across  the  seas 
for  hotel  names.  It  boasts  of  no  Victoria,  no  Bucking- 
ham, no  Imperial,  but  it  has  a  Screven,  named  after  a 
prominent  Georgia  family  ;  a  Pulaski,  named  for  a  mil- 
itary hero,  and  now  a  De  Soto,  in  honor  of  the  discov- 
erer of  the  Mississippi  river.  Savannah  is  nothing  if 
not  patriotic.  It  has  a  Jlonterey  square,  a  Forsyth  park, 
and  among  its  monuments  are  the  noble  columns  erected 
to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  three  revolutionary  heroes 
— Jasper,  Green  and  Pulaski. 

The  De  Soto  cost  a  round  million  of  dollars.  It  occu- 
pies an  entire  block. 


202  SA  VANNAH,  GEORGIA. 

Within  five  minutes'  walk  of  the  house  is  Forsyth 
park,  with  its  acres  of  forest  trees,  and  plenty  of  japon- 
icas  and  roses  in  full  bloom  at  this  writing,  January  26. 
In  the  centre  of  this  park  there  is  a  handsome  fountain, 
modeled  after  the  grand  fountain  in  the  Place  de  la 
Concorde,  Paris.  It  is  a  mistake  and  a  pity  to  half  hide 
it  behind  japonica  trees  and  rose  bushes,  from  six  to 
eight  feet  high. 

It  is  very  enjoyable  to  sit  in  any  of  Savannah's  pretty 
parks  these  days,  say  between  noon  and  four  o'clock. 
There  is  no  danger  of  taking  nor  of  feeling  cold. 
At  night  and  in  the  early  morn  the  air  is  cool  (36  to  42 
degrees),  but  in  the  afternoon  it  is  soft  and  balmy — any- 
where from  56  to  76  degrees.  It  is  an  old  habit  of  mine 
to  carry  a  thermometer  in  my  satchel,  so  I  am  not  de- 
pendent on  the  hotel  instrument  nor  on  hearsay  for  my 
facts  and  figures  concerning  the  temperature.  Frost  is 
rarely  seen  in  Savannah,  and  they  never  get  a  sight  of 
snow  unless  some  of  the  "beautiful"  article  should 
remain  on  the  car  roofs  of  trains  coming  from  the 
North. 

The  De  Soto  can  accommodate  four  hundred  guests, 
and  besides,  the  dining-room  and  the  smaller  "early 
breakfast-room  "  on  the  main  floor,  there  is  a  banquet- 
ing hall  on  the  first  floor  in  which  two  hundred  guests 
can  sit  down  comfortably.  A  novel  feature  for  a  hotel 
is  a  gymnasium,  on  the  sixth  floor,  and  above  this,  at  the 
very  summit,  there  is  a  large  "  Solarium,"  fitted  up  with 
chairs,  tables  and  lounges.  Here  you  can  sit,  bask  in 
the  sun,  and,  as  Walt  Whitman  says,  "loaf  and  invite 
your  soul. "  In  this  elevated  position  you  get  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  Savannah  and  the  si^rrounding  country — as 
far  east  as  the  Tybee  coast,  twenty  miles  distant. 


P.  S. — This  is  called  a  cold  winter  in  Savannah,  yet  at 
six  A.M.,  Thursday.  January  29,  the  thermometer  marked 
sixty  degrees. 


THOMASVILLE,  GEORGIA. 


Time,  eleven  A.M.,  February  i, — Your  correspondent 
is  seated  at  his  bedroom  window  ;  there  are  two  large 
windows  in  the  room,  and  both  are  wide  open.  The 
apartment  is  twenty  feet  square  with  a  twelve-foot  ceil- 
ing ;  it  is  not  heated  artificially  and  yet  the  temperature 
in  it  is  seventy-two  degrees.  This  is  not  said  from 
hearsay,  nor  is  the  record  taken  from  a  hotel  thermome- 
ter, which  may  be  unreliable,  but  from  a  portable  ther- 
mometer of  my  own. 

When  the  Place  was  Settled. — People  ask,  "  How 
old  is  Thomasville  :  when  was  it  first  settled  ?  "  The 
writer  can  answer  this  question  because  he  had  the  good 
fortune  to  be  presented  to  no  less  a  personage  than 
Mrs.  M.  A.  Bower,  a  most  charming  woman  to  look  at 
and  to  converse  with,  who  is  proud  of  her  fifty-six  years, 
but  whom  you  would  judge  to  be  at  least  ten  years 
younger.  Mrs.  Bower  was  the  first  white  child  born  in 
Thomasville,  and  in  the  first  real  house  erected  in  the 
place.  It  stood  on  the  present  site  of  the  Mitchell 
House.  Mrs.  Bower  is  the  daughter  of  Colonel  and  Mrs. 
Edward  Remington  who  came  here  from  Pawtuxet,  R. 
I.,  in  the  year  1828.  Set  it  down  for  a  fact  then  that 
Thomasville  is  three  score  years  old. 

Location.  —  Thomasville,  the  capital  of  Thomas 
county  (this  is  not  from  a  gazetteer,  please  believe), 
stands  three  hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  sea  level, 
being  on  the  highest  ground  between  Macon  and  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  the  Uplands  of  Georgia.  It  is  two 
hundred  miles  from  the  Atlantic,  sixty  miles  from  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  as  the  bird  flies,  twelve  miles  from  the 

203 


3(Vt  THOMASVILLE,  GEORGIA. 

Florida  State  line,  a  thirty-three-mile  drive  from  Talla- 
hassee, and  is  reached  from  Jacksonville  at  the  South  or 
from  Savannah  coming  from  the  North  in  a  few  hours 
by  way  of  Waycross  or  Jesup,  two  places  not  particu- 
larly attractive  to  the  tourist  but  quite  useful  as  way 
stations,  affording  junctions  for  several  lines  of  rail- 
road. " 

Health  and  Pleasure. — Thomasville  was  at  one 
time  simply  a  health  resort :  people  with  consumption 
or  other  lung  or  throat  diseases  came  here  for  relief  and 
they  found  it.  They,  the  qickly  people,  still  come  to 
get  well ;  but  beside  being  a  health  resort  it  is  now  also 
a  place  for  pleasure.  Fashion  has  set  its  seal  on  Thom- 
asville. New  York  and  Boston  are  well  represented 
among  the  visitors,  but  the  West  especially  favors 
Thomasville,  and  St.  Paul,  for  its  size,  sends  more  peo- 
ple probably  than  any  other  city.  A  number  of  St. 
Paul  citizens  have  cottages  here  and  have  set  up  fine 
establishments.  Ladies  dress  for  the  morning  ride  or 
drive  ;  they  dress  for  the  mid-day  dinner  and  again  foi- 
the  evening  dance.  Ladies  at  the  hotels  exchange  visits 
with  the  cottagers,  also  with  the  townspeople,  the  per- 
manent residents  gfiving  strangers  a  warm,  Southern 
welcome. 

Features  of  the  Town.— To-day  Thomasville  has 
churches  of  all  denominations  (including  a  Jewish  place 
of  worship),  two  hotels  far  superior  to  any  between 
Baltimore  and  Jacksonville,  unless  exception  be  made 
of  the  new  Oglethrope  at  Brunswick  :  a  number  of 
smaller  hotels,  numerous  boarding  houses,  two  daily 
newspapers,  several  good  private  schools,  a  flourishing 
college  for  girls  and  one  for  the  other  sex,  a  railway  di- 
rect to  the  town — and  five  thousand  inhabitants.  The 
boys'  college  is  a  branch  of  the  State  University  and  has 
at  present  two  hundred  and  fifty  pupils.  The  other  in- 
stitution,' called  "Young's  Female  College,"  was  en- 
dowed by  a  Georgian,  and  the  charge  for  tuition  is  so 


rnOMASV/LLE,  GEORGIA.  905 

low  as  to  be  nominal,  ten  dollars  per  year  to  each  ptipil. 
So  the  religfiously  inclined  have  ample  opportunity  to 
worship  at  their  particular  shrine,  and  the  educational 
advantages  of  Thomasville  are  good. 

Nature's  Gifts. — The  reputation  of  this  place  was 
gained  by  its  dry  and  balmy  atmosphere,  its  even  tem- 
perature, its  health-giving  pine  forests  and  by  its  free- 
dom from  cold  or  sudden  changes.  The  United  States; 
Signal  Servnce  report  shows  that  the  average  winter 
temperature  is  about  fifty-five  degrees,  and  the  average 
temperature  last  July,  the  hottest  month  here,  was 
eighty-two  deg^rees.  While  the  winter  days  are  warm 
the  mornings  and  nights  are  pleasantly  cool,  and  it  never 
snows  here.  Once  during  the  past  fourteen  years  they 
did  have  a  flurry  of  snow.  It  happened  on  a  Sunday 
and  the  churches  remained  empty  ;  so  interested  were 
the  inhabitants  in  the  uncommon  sight  that  they  ne- 
glected the  church  and  all  took  to  snowballing.  You 
need  no  overcoats  nor  wraps  for  outdoor  wear,  except, 
perhaps,  for  an  evening  drive,  or  for  rainy  days  ;  but  an 
umbrella  or  parasol  to  protect  you  from  the  heat  of  the 
sun  is  indispensable.  I  am  speaking  of  needing  such  an 
article  at  the  present  time.  February  i . 

The  Piney  Woods  Oak. — To  those  coming  from  the 
North  the  sight  of  the  trees  in  full  leaf  is  as  agreeable 
as  it  is  strange.  The  pine,  live-oak,  hemlock  and  holly 
all  have  their  branches  thickly  covered.  There  is  a 
gorgeous  live-oak  on  the  grounds  of  the  Piney  Woods 
Hotel  whose  spreading  branches  measure  sixty  feet 
across.  There  is  still  a  larger  one  in  the  town,  which 
people  travel  miles  to  see.  It  spreads  ninety  feet  across. 
But  beauty  does  not  always  consist  in  bigness.  The 
Piney  Woods  oak  is  both  beautiful  and  big,  but  its  sym- 
metrical beauty  is  its  main  attraction.  Is  it  too  warm 
on  the  hotel  porch?  Are  the  sun's  rays  too  fierce.' 
Cross  over  the  road,  fifty  yards  distant,  and  seek  a  com- 
fortable bench  or  rustic  seat  in  the  gjateful  shade  of 


306  THOMASVILLE,  GEORGIA. 

the  pines,  in  what  is  popularly  termed  "Yankee  Para- 
dise, "  but  known  more  correctly  as  Paradise  Park.  It 
includes  thirty  acres  laid  out  in  walks  and  drives.  There 
is  no  ice  to  make  your  step  unsteady,  but  the  needles  of 
the  pines  render  the  paths  rather  slippery. 

When  to  Come. — You  can  pick  violets  in  the  open 
air  and  pluck  in  the  fields  a  small  bouquet  of  daisies  at 
this  writing,  but  to  see  Thomasville  at  its  best,  I  am 
told  that  you  most  come  a  little  later  than  this,  when 
the  grass  is  all  green.  You  can  then  pluck  wild  roses 
to  your  heart's  content.  Theja  the  pear  orchards  will  be 
in  full  bloom,  and  the  dogwood  blossoms  are  a  sight  to 
behold.  I  have  been  here  only  three  days  and  have 
seen  no  rain,  but  the  soil  is  sandy  and  one  can  readily 
believe  what  enthusiasts  say,  that  an  hour  or  two  after 
a  long  and  heavy  rain  walking  is  again  pleasant,  the 
rain  having  percolated  through  the  ground,  leaving  the 
surface  perfectly  dry,  if  not  hard.  And  there  is  seem- 
ingly no  end  of  lovely  walks.  You  get  out  of  the 
town  in  five  minutes,  and  if  you  are  bent  on  pedestrian 
exercise,  and  have  an  eye  for  beautiful  scenes,  turn  your 
steps  in  any  direction  and  you  will  make  no  mistake. 

What  to  Bring.  —  If  the  ladies  of  your  party  are 
equestriennes,  by  all  means  let  them  bring  their  riding 
habits  with  them :  everybody  rides.  Driving,  too,  is 
largely  indulged  in,  the  roads  being  hard,  smooth  and 
unusually  wide.  They  extend  for  miles  and  miles 
through  the  pine  woods,  and  their  picturesque  beauty 
you  will  please  imagine  ;  it  is  not  easy  to  describe  it 
without  using  more  adjectives  than  I  have  at  my  com- 
mand en  route.  To  sportsmen  let  me  say,  do  not  come 
without  your  dog  and  gun  or  you  will  never  forget  nor 
forgive  the  error.  Wild  turkeys  abound,  there  are  snipe 
in  plenty  and  quail  can  be  bagged  by  a  novice.  You  see 
them  on  the  road  while  driving,  and  the  crack  of  the 
rifle  is  heard  almost  constantly.  Quail  on  toast  is  a 
regular  dish  at  the  hotels  at  least  once  a  day. 


THOMASVILLE,  GEORGIA.  207 

The  Negro  and  his  Works.— Without  desiring  to  at- 
tack political  problems,  to  raise  dead  issues  or  to  discuss 
questions  that  have  long  since  been  answered,  one  can- 
not resist  the  temptation  to  obtain  information  on  the 
result  of  the  emancipation  proclamation,  for  although  it 
is  over  a  quarter  of  a  century  old  the  subject  yet  has 
gfreat  interest  for  this  country,  and  for  other  countries 
also,  for  that  matter.  Here  is  a  statement  of  facts  and 
figures  in  condensed,  nutshell  form  upon  which  chapters 
and  books  might  be  written — the  colored  population  of 
Georgia  pay  taxes  on  real  estate  amounting  to  twelve 
millions  of  dollars,  the  realty  being  estimated  at  about 
one  half  its  actual  value,  and  their  personal  property  is 
estimated  at  about  six  millions  of  dollars.  There  are  m^ 
stances  of  marked  faithfulness  and  attachment  of  slaves 
to  their  forpier  owners,  some  of  the  blacks  still  serving 
their  white  masters.  Among  the  servants  of  Mrs.  M.  A. 
Bower,  proprietor  of  the  Piney  Woods  Hotel,  are  two 
who  formerly  served  this  same  "master,"  one  of  them 
being  the  skilful  pastry-cook  of  the  hotel. 

The  Hotels. — There  is  a  standing  joke  about  certain 
Southern  cities  where  there  are  only  two  hotels,  that, 
whichever  one  you  select,  you  will  wish  that  you  had 
chosen  the  other.  Although  the  hotels  south  of  the  line 
have  greatly  improved  of  late  years,  the  old  joke  will 
still  apply  in  certain  towns  and  cities.  Not  so,  however, 
at  Thomasville.  There  are  only  two  hotels  here  known 
to  fame,  and  you  will  make  no  mistake  if  you  select 
either.  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  to  find  two  such  hotels 
in  such  a  comparatively  small  town.  The  Mitchell 
House  and  the  Piney  Woods  Hotel  (I  take  them  alpha- 
betically) are  both  large,  new,  handsomely  furnished 
and  perfectly  appointed  houses,  containing  all  the  mod- 
em improvements,  and  erected  with  strict  regard  for 
the  laws  of  sanitation.  The  Mitchell  House  is  an  im- 
posing solid  brick  structure,  four  stories  high,  two  hun- 
dred feet  square,  with  a  cultivated  park  of  two  acres 


208  THOMASV/LLE,  GEORGIA. 

sweeping  before  its  front  piazza.  This  little  park  is  re- 
served for  the  hotel  guests  and  their  friends. 

The  Piney  Woods  Hotel  is  within  gun-shot  distance 
of  the  Mitchell  House,  on  the  same  street,  with  a  front 
measuring  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  the  other  side 
overlooking  Paradise  Park,  of  which  I  have  already 
spoken.  The  Piney  Woods  stands,  as  it  were,  and  as 
its  name  might  indicate,  on  the  very  edge  of  the  pine 
forests,  and  yet  it  is  only  a  five  minutes'  walk  frgm  the 
post-office  and  a  ten  minutes'  drive  from  the  depot. 
The  pamphlet  issued  by  th^  proprietor  tells  you  that 
"  the  Piney  Woods  is  modelled  similar  to  the  Grand 
Union  Hotel,  at  Saratoga  Springs, "but  this  is  a  mistake 
of  the  compiler  of  the  work,  and  is  no  compliment  at  all 
to  the  house  under  consideration — which  is  far  more 
pleasing  to  the  eye,  exteriorly,  than  the  Grand  Union 
at  Saratoga.  The  Piney  Woods  is  built  after  plans  of  J. 
A.  Woods,  a  New  York  architect,  who  planned  the  new 
Grand  Hotel  ///  the  Catskill  Mountains,  and  with  its 
wide  and  lofty  verandas,  its  projecting  towers,  its  pretty 
corners  here  and  there,  is  a  facsimile  on  a  somewhat 
smaller  scale  of  that  favorite  and  beautiful  house.  Any 
one  who  has  seen  the  hotel  on  the  line  of  the  Ulster  and 
Delaware  Railway,  can  picture  to  himself  the  Piney 
Woods  Hotel  at  Thomasville.  The  late  Captain  Gillette, 
who  kept  the  Mountain  Hotel,  kept  this  one  also  for 
years,  William  E.  Davies  is  now  the  manager  of  the 
Piney  Woods. 

Each  hotel,  the  Mitchell  House  and  the  Piney  Woods, 
will  accommodate  nearly  three  hundred  guests. 

The  Best  Route. — The  Atlantic  Coast  Line,  called 
"the  short  route  to  Florida, "  is  by  all  odds  the  best 
way  to  reach  Thomasville  from  the  Eastern  States  and 
from  New  York.  The  vestibule  train,  "the  Florida 
special  "  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad,  which  traverses 
this  route,  is  the  quickest  and  most  luxurious  train, 
with  its  dining-room  car,  library  car,  etc.,  but  this  only 


THOMASVILLE,  GEORGIA.  209 

leaves  New  York  on  three  days  of  each  week,  Mondays, 
Wednesdays  and  Fridays,  and  you  must  apply  for  seats 
some  time  ahead.  The  ordinary  trains,  with  Pullman 
sleepers,  are  good  enough  for  the  majority  of  travellers, 
and  they  afford  people  opportunity  to  stop  over  and  see 
the  cities  en  route — Washington,  Richmond,  Wilming- 
ton, N.  C. ,  Charleston  and  Savannah.  Or,  if  you  prefer, 
you  may  come  direct  from  New  York,  in  about  thirty- 
two  hours,  to  Waycross,  Ga. ,  where  there  is  connection 
for  Thomas\'ille,  distant  four  hours.  But  if  you  "stop 
over,"  you  must  be  prepared  to  travel  in  ordinary 
coaches  between  the  Southern  cities  ;  parlor  cars  are 
not  attached  to  local  trains.  It  would  help  Thomasville 
materially  if  the  Savannah,  Western  and  Florida  Road 
(everybody  in  this  section  calls  it  "the  S.  F.  &  W.") 
were  to  run  a  quick  train  with  a  parlor  car  to  meet  the 
Florida  special.  The  return  would  not  be  great  at  first, 
but  it  would  prove  profitable  to  the  road  ultimately. 
Strangers  and  tourists  make  it  a  point  to  go  to  the 
stations  to  see  the  Pennsylvania  vestibule  train  at  differ- 
ent points  of  the  road,  and  the  colored  folk  stand  and 
stare  at  the  beautiful  appointments  with  eyes  and 
mouth  wide  open.  "Only  God's  people,"  remarked 
one  surprised  darkey,  • '  can  ride  in  them  carriages. " 


A  NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT. 


If  you  tell  people  in  New  York  that  you  are  "going 
to  Brunswick  for  the  winter,"  they  will  probably  look 
at  you  with  surprise  ;  some  will  say,  "  Do  you  mean  New 
Brunswick?"  having  in  mirfd  New  Brunswick,  N.  J.  ; 
while  others  will  say,  ' '  Brunswick  ;  where  is  Bruns- 
wick, in  what  State  ?  I  never  heard  of  it. "  Well,  new 
as  Brunswick  may  appear  to  the  majority,  it  is  an  old 
place,  having  been  settled  and  laid  out  in  the  year  1763. 

Where  is  Brunswick?  —  Brunswick  is  in  the  South- 
eastern part  of  Georgia,  not  far  from  the  Florida  border, 
sixty  miles  below  Savannah,  seventy  miles  north  of  Jack- 
sonville. The  city  covers  an  area  of  two  miles  square, 
and  is  handsomely  laid  out,  the  whole  adorned  by  some 
of  the  most  beautiful  groves  of  live  oaks  and  cedars  to  be 
found  in  the  South.  It  is  situated  on  a  small  peninsula 
jutting  out  into  the  sea,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by 
salt  water,  but  protected  from  the  severity  of  the  ocean 
winds  by  outlying  islands.  Brunswick  is  only  eight 
miles  from  the  sea  and  there  are  no  fresh  water  streams 
or  swamps  within  many  miles  to  breed  malaria,  the  air 
being  constantly  renewed  and  vivified  by  the  health- 
bearing  breezes  of  the  ocean,  that  render  it,  as  official 
statistics  show,  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  Union. 

Among  its  natural  advantages  are  its  climate,  uni- 
form and  mild  in  winter,  its  geographical  position  being 
but  little  north  of  St.  Augustine,  ice  being  seldom  seen, 
and  snow  rarely,  if  ever ;  its  forests  of  pine,  palm  and 
moss-covered  oak,  its  healthy  soil,  pure  water,  semi- 
tropical  foliage  and  plants,  the  magnificent  drives,  and 
last,  but  by  no  means  least,  its  superior  water  facilities, 

210 


A   NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT.  211 

having  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the  South  Atlantic. 
As  to  the  trees :  I  have  stood  under  the  far-famed  old 
oaks  of  England,  I  have  seen  the  moss-covered  trees  of 
Bonaventure,  of  which  all  Savannah  proudly  boasts,  and 
admired  the  great  oak  at  Thomasville,  whose  branches 
measure  ninety  feet  across ;  but  there  is  an  oak  here 
which  belittles  them  all  for  age,  strength  and  size. 
Under  the  "Lovers'  Oak"  at  Brunswick  it  is  said  that 
one  hundred  teams  can  find  shelter  from  the  sun's  rays. 
It  is  called  Lovers'  Oak  because  a  marriage  was  once 
performed  under  it,  several  hundred  witnesses  being 
present  at  the  open  air  ceremony. 

Jekyl  and  Other  Islands. — There  are  a  number  of 
beautiful  islands  near  here  which  are  fertile  almost  be- 
yond one's  imagination.  Everybody  has  heard  of  Jekyl 
Island,  and  all  true  sportsmen  know  it.  It  is  famous  as 
the  location  of  one  of  the  finest  club-houses  in  the 
country,  the  island  being  a  paradise  for  the  sportsman 
and  fisherman.  It  is  literally  full  of  game  ;  deer,  wild 
turkey  and  other  fowl  are  so  plentiful  that  visitors  are 
sure  of  good  sport.  Being  a  natural  game  preserve, 
upon  which  the  general  public  have  not  been  permitted 
to  hunt,  the  increase  has  been  rapid  and  the  supply 
practically  inexhaustible.  The  club-house,  seen  from 
the  river,  is  a  noble  structure.  Then  there  is  St.  Simon's 
Island,  which  lies  off  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  seven 
miles  from  Brunswick,  and  is  noted  for  the  wonderful 
fertility  of  its  soil.  It  excels  especially  in  fruits — 
oranges,  peaches,  figs,  bananas,  olives,  lemons,  limes 
and  pecans,  growing  in  great  profusion.  The  climate  is 
almost  perfection.  Ice  is  seldom  seen,  and  snow  has 
been  seen  here  but  once  within  the  present  century, 

A  Doctor's  Certificate.— Brunswick's  peninsular  lo- 
cation, almost  surrounded  by  salt  water,  with  immense 
pine  forests  on  the  north,  extending  hundreds  of  miles 
into  the  interior,  conduces  to  a  state  of  healthfulness 
excelled  by  no  other  place  of  its  population  in  the  whole 


313  A   NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT. 

South.  Dr.  H.  Buford,  Health  Officer  of  the  City  of 
Brunswick,  makes  the  following  official  statement : 
"The  result  of  ray  observation  and  experience  as  a 
practitioner  in  this  city  and  in  the  country  adjacent 
thereto,  during  a  residence  of  seven  years,  proves  that 
our  mortuary  statistics  show  a  minimum  death  rate — 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y. ,  not  excepted.  During  an  active 
practice  of  seven  years  I  cannot  record  a  single  case  of 
scarlet  fever  or  diphtheria.  Hay  fever  and  asthma  are 
imknown  here. " 

A  Mistake  of  Congress. — Brunswick  is  a  century  and 
a  quarter  old,  but  it  went  along  lazily  and  slowly,  like 
many  other  Southern  towns  and  villages,  and  the  war 
somewhat  retarded  its  progress.  Nor  was  it  helped  by 
a  committee  from  Congress  which,  some  years  after  the 
war,  took  a  cruise  along  the  Atlantic  coast  to  examine 
the  facilities  of  our  seaports.  Congress  has  not  earned 
its  peculiar  reputation  without  deserving  it.  This  com- 
mittee may  have  included  members  who  were  learned 
in  the  law,  or  who  knew  how  to  hoe  potatoes,  but  of 
harbor  advantages  and  the  requirements  of  ships  they 
must  have  been  innocently  ig^norant.  They  reported 
that  "the  harbor  of  Brun^tvick  was  twelve  feet  deep." 
This  went  abroad  and  ships  went  elsewhere.  How 
near  to  the  truth  came  this  report  may  be  judged  by 
one  instance.  On  Friday,  February  3,  1888,  the  English 
steamer,  the  Port  Augusta,  cleared  this  port  drawing- 
twenty  feet  of  water  and  carrying  6,559  bales  of  cotton, 
weighing  over  three  millions  of  pounds  and  valued  at 
§300,000.  It  was  the  largest  cargo  ever  cleared  from  a 
South  Atlantic  port,  and  ships  drawing  twenty-four 
feet  of  water  enter  and  leave  here  without  the  slightest 
danger  of  touching  bottom.  So  much  for  the  congres- 
sional report.  That  the  shipping  facilities  of  Bruns- 
wick are  becoming  known  may  be  judged  also  from  the 
following  facts  and  figures  :  During  the  whole  month  of 
February,  1887,  the  exports  of  cotton,  naval  stores  and 


A   NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT.  218 

luirber  amounted  to  $78,000  while  for  only  \.\iQ  first  five 
days  of  Feb.,  1888,  the  exports  amounted  to  over  $300,000. 
These  fig^ures  are  given  on  official  authority  from  the 
collector  of  the  port.  Are  more  significant  statements 
needed  to  show  the  marvellous  advance  and  improve- 
ment of  this  place  ?  Here  they  are — the  exports  in  the 
year  1886  amounted  to  less  than  a  million  dollars ;  in 
1887  they  footed  up  over  two  and  a  quarter  millions. 
The  imports  of  1886  were  less  than  $5,000,  the  imports 
of  1887.  $48,000. 

A  City  by  the  Sea. — How  has  all  this  seeming  pros- 
perity and  increase  of  business  on  the  water  affected 
the  land  ?  Well,  in  1 884  the  population  of  Brunswick 
was  3,000,  four  years  later  it  was  8,000  ;  the  increase  of 
taxable  property  was  thirtj'-three  per  cent,  greaterin'87 
than  '86  ;  the  comptroller  of  the  State  says  that  this 
county  (Glynn)  has  made  for  the  last  twelve  months  a 
larger  pro  rata  increase  than  any  other  county  in  the 
State  of  Georgia,  for  eight  years  ago  there  was  not  a 
brick  building  in  the  place  ;  now  there  are  blocks  and 
blocks  of  brick  stores  and  fine  dwellings  ;  increase  in 
the  value  of  the  land  is  almost  fabulous,  and  there  is  a 
new  brick  hotel  here,  "the  Oglethorpe,"  which  cost 
with  furniture,  $160,000,  the  equal  of  which  for  site  and 
style  cannot  be  found  between  Washington,  D.  C,  and 
St.  Augustine,  Fla. 

The  OciLETHORPE. — The  new  hotel  is  an  evidence  of 
and  in  keeping  with  the  new  order  of  things.  The  loca- 
tion of  the  building  is  choice — on  the  highest  ground  in 
Brunswick,  affording  fine  views  and  rare  sanitary  facili- 
ties. The  house  is  not  merely  considered  to  be,  but  is 
fire-proof.  So  perfect  is  the  protection  against  fire 
that  the  company  insuring  the  property  reduced  the 
usual  hotel  rate  one-half  in  consideration  of  the  charac- 
ter of  the  building  and  the  excellence  of  the  fire  system 
adopted.  The  Oglethorpe  stands  on  the  principal 
street,  near  the  railway  depot  and  steamboat  wharf,  on 


314  A   NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT. 

a  plot  of  ground  about  three  hundred  feet  square,  the 
main  building  having  three  stories  and  being  two  hun- 
dred and  sixty-seven  feet  long,  with  wings  running  back 
one  hundred  and  forty  feet.  It  is  the  largest  building 
in  the  place,  and  with  its  graceful  round  brick  towers  at 
each  comer,  and  its  turrets  and  spires  jutting  through 
the  roof,  here  and  there,  it  is  the  most  prominent  ob- 
ject you  see  as  you  approach  Brunswick  from  any  di- 
rection, either  by  land  or  water.  The  Oglethorpe,  be- 
ing new,  is  the  latest  exponent  of  all  that  is  best  and 
most  approved  in  modern  hotel  building,  and  of  course 
has  all  the  "modem  improvements."  The  drawing- 
room  is  a  grand  apartment,  reminding  you  of  the 
parlor  of  the  United  States  at  Saratoga  ;  the  dining- 
room  is  lighted  from  three  sides,  and  seats  three  hun- 
dred persons  ;  the  main  floor,  the  entrance,  office  and 
lower  hall  are  tiled  with  Georgia  marble  in  beautiful 
colors,  and  there  is  a  covered  porch  for  promenading 
which  reaches  up  to  the  second  story.  It  is  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  long,  and  from  twenty  to  twenty- 
five  feet  wide. 

The  bedrooms  of  the  Oglethorpe  are  larger,  as  a  rule, 
than  those  of  most  hotels.  Even  the  "small  rooms" 
connecting  with  the  suites  are  twenty  feet  long  by 
eleven  wide,  and  have  two  windows,  each  seven  feet 
high  by  three  feet  wide.  The  "tower  "  rooms,  with  their 
open  fire-places,  carved  wooden  mantels,  tiled  hearths, 
rich  Moquette  carpets,  portieres  of  velours,  and  lace  cur- 
tains on  brass  poles  are  as  handsome  as  the  bedrooms 
of  any  other  hotel  that  the  writer  has  seen,  and  if  the 
walls  and  ceilings  were  artistically  decorated  and  fres- 
coed, the  "tower"  rooms  of  the  Oglethorpe  probably 
might  compare  with  those  palatial  bedrooms  of  the  Hotel 
Metropole  in  London.  A  peculiarity  of  the  Oglethorpe 
is  that  there  are  no  back  rooms  ;  each  one  faces  the 
street  or  overlooks  the  bay,  but  a  few  hundred  feet  dis- 
tant.    Between  the  bay  and  the  house  the  grounds  of 


A   NEW  SOUTHERN  RESORT. 


215 


the  hotel  are  attractively  laid  out.  As  to  the  table  and 
general  management  of  the  Oglethorpe,  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  say  that  the  manager  is  Warren  Leland,  Jr. ,  a 
member  of  the  celebrated  Leland  family — a  name  long 
associated  with  some  of  the  leading  hotels  in  the 
United  States. 

En  Route  to  and  from  Florida.  —  Brunswick  is 
reached  by  rail  from  the  North  by  the  Atlantic  Coast 
Line  and  the  Savannah,  Florida  and  Western  Railroad 
by  way  of  Savannah  and  Waycross,  Ga.,  and  from  Jack- 
sonville, Florida,  by  railway  to  Femandina  in  one  hour, 
and  thence  by  steamboat  in  four  hours.  The  water  route 
is  very  pleasant.  The  boats,  if  not  splendid  specimens 
of  naval  architecture,  are  at  least  staunch  and  comfort- 
able. You  take  an  inside  route,  hug  the  shore,  pass 
many  beautiful  islands  and  get  glimpses  of  most  pictur- 
esque scenes. 

Tourists  contemplating  a  visit  to  Florida  for  health  or 
pleasure  do  well  to  break  the  journey  at  Waycross  or 
Jessup,  visit  Brunswick  and  see  the  charming  country 
thereabouts.  The  run  is  made  from  Waycross  to  Bruns- 
wick in  three  hours  and  ten  minutes. 

The  route  Southward  is  from  New  York  to  Quantico, 
Va. ,  over  the  Pennsylvania  tracks ;  from  Richmond  to 
Charleston  via  Atlantic  Coast  Line  ;  from  Waycross  to 
Brunswick  by  the  Plant  system.  Leave  New  York 
(Desbrosses  or  Cortlandt  streets)  at  9  P.  M.  or  midnight 
— through  car  to  Waycross. 


A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


Key  West,  in  Spanish  Cayo  Hueso  (Bone  Island),  de- 
rived its  name,  so  says  history,  from  the  fact  that  the 
island  was  strewn  with  human  bones.  The  conquerors 
didn't  take  time  to  bury  the  bones  of  the  conquered. 
The  change,  corruption  Spaniards  call  it,  from  Cayo 
Hueso  to  Key  West  was  easy. 

The  United  States  bought  the  island  from  Spain  in  1 8 1 6. 
The  formation  is  coral  and  it  contains  about  two  thou- 
sand acres.  The  Hon.  C.  B.  Pendleton,  editor  and  pro- 
prietor of  the  Equator-Democrat,  and  a  man  of  culture 
who  has  served  in  the  State  Senate,  showed  me  an 
island,  or  key,  as  they  call  it  in  these  parts,  distant 
from  Key  West  five  miles,  and  which  he  believed  to  be 
the  most  southerly  point  in  the  United  States.  Another 
authority  informed  me  that  Cape  Sable,  distant  from 
Key  West  about  sixty  miles,  is  the  most  southerly 
point. 

To  quote  Editor  Pendleton,  Key  West  is  distant  from 
the  tropical  line  only  thirteen  miles.  Doctors  will  differ; 
another  authority  gives  it  as  sixty  miles.  I  am  inclined 
to  think  that  on  the  tropical  question  my  editorial 
brother  is  correct  in  his  estimate,  because  Key  West  is 
only  distant  from  Cuba  eighty  or  ninety  miles. 

The  climate  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  Havana.  In 
the  Cuban  capital  the  mercury  never  goes  below  sixty 
degrees  ;  in  Key  West  the  lowest  point  recorded  is  fifty- 
one. 

Key  West  is  the  ninth  port  of  entry  in  the  United 
States,  collecting  more  import  duty  than  all  the  other 

216 


A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES.  317 

ports  in  the  States  of  Florida  and  Georgia  and  one-half 
of  Alabama  combined. 

In  i860  the  population  was  about  two  thousand,  one- 
quarter  of  whom  were  colored  ;  but  in  1869,  after  the 
rebellion  in  Cuba,  the  popitlation  of  the  island  began 
to  increase  and  now  it  numbers  twenty-two  thousand, 
and  they  claim  that  it  is  the  largest  city  in  Florida. 

The  inhabitants  are  mixed,  very  much  mixed — Cubans, 
negroes,  Americans,  Chinese,  etc.  The  negroes  come 
from  Nassau,  Cuba  and  other  places. 

Key  West  was  bought  of  Spain,  as  before  remarked  ; 
the  island  is  nearer  Cuba  than  any  other  land,  it  is 
not  in  any  sense  American  except  that  it  flies  the 
American  flag,  and  it  seems  to  be  now,  to  all  intents 
and  purposes,  a  foreign  place — a  Spanish  colon^,  as  it 
once  was.  Spanish  is  the  prevailing  language,  and 
Cubans  predominate.  All  the  public  notices  and  hand- 
bills are  printed  in  two  languages,  several  newspapers 
are  printed  in  Spanish,  and  only  one,  the  Eqtmtor- 
Democrat,  in  English.  It  is  difficult  to  make  a  purchase 
or  to  transact  any  business  unless  you  speak  Spanish, 
and  there  are  few  drivers  or  conductors  of  street  cars 
who  can  understand  you  if  addressed  in  English.  The 
car  drivers  swear  at  their  patient,  sadly  abused  mules 
in  hard  Spanish.  All  the  American  residents  and  busi- 
ness men  speak  the  prevailing  tongue,  or  are  learning  it 
as  fast  as  they  can,  for  without  it  they  cannot  so  readily 
conduct  business. 

Speaking  of  the  street  cars,  they  are  all  open,  of 
course,  winter  and  summer.  In  fact,  there  is  never  any- 
thing resembling  northern  winter  weather  in  Key  West ; 
light  summer  clothes  and  Panama  hats  are  worn  the 
year  round. 

But  you  are  not  obliged  to  patronize  street  cars.  Rid- 
ing in  private  conveyances  is  at  a  cheaper  rate  of  fare 
than  even  in  London,  or  in  a  country  town  on  the  Conti- 
nent.    In  London  the  smallest  cab  fare  is  one  shilling 


218  A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  ST  A  TES. 

(twenty-five  cents)  ;  in  Key  West  you  can  ride  a  short 
distance  for  a  dime,  and  a  longer  distance  for  fifteen 
cents.  The  conveyance  is  a  very  hght  and  very  dirty 
wagonette  on  four  wheels.  The  driver  is  as  dirty  as  his 
vehicle,  and  his  horse  resembles  those  poor  skeletons 
which  I  have  seen  blindfolded  and  pushed  into  the  arena 
at  a  Cuban  bull  fight. 

Such  tropical  fruits  as  the  sugar  apple,  the  guava, 
mango,  the  soft  and  sweet  sapadillo,  thrive  in  Key 
West.  The  climate  and  salt  atmosphere  combine  to 
make  it  the  home  of  the  pa)m.  There  are  many  tall, 
slender  and  beautiful  cocoahut  trees,  some  with  their 
graceful  leaves  waving  as  high  as  eighty  feet  in  the  air, 
making  an  interesting  and  pretty  picture  against  a 
cloudlfess  sky. 

But  the  cultivation  of  the  cocoanut  in  Key  West  might 
be  made  very  profitable  as  well  as  picturesque.  At 
present  there  are  comparatively  few  of  such  trees  ;  their 
cultivation  ought  to  be  encouraged.  The  tree  has  no 
tap  root,  and  will  thrive  on  a  thin  soil.  It  comes  into 
bearing  eight  or  ten  years  from  the  nut  ;  and  after  that 
the  fruit  grows  and  increases  every  month  in  the  year. 
Like  the  orange  tree,  the  older  it  gets  the  more  it  bears. 
A  bearing  cocoanut  grove  costs  less  to  care  for  than  an 
orange  grove,  and  the  revenue  therefrom  is  greater.  It 
requires  no  cultivation,  and  is  as  hardy  in  its  section  as 
the  cabbage  palmetto,  that  grows  everywhere  in  Florida. 
Besides,  cocoanuts  can  be  shipped  in  any  month  of  the 
year ;  they  require  no  packing,  no  care  in  handling, 
and  they  will  bear  transportation  for  thousands  of 
miles.  There  is  a  good  market  for  green  cocoanuts  in 
these  parts  as  well  as  for  matured  ones.  When  the  nut 
is  fully  grown,  but  green,  it  contains  about  two  glasses 
of  clear  juice,  milk  we  call  it  in  the  North.  It  is  consid- 
ered a  healthful  beverage  in  the  tropics  and  sells  per 
glass  in  the  streets  of  Havana  for  the  equivalent  of  five 
cents. 


A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  ST  A  TES.  219 

Nature  has  favored  Key  West  with  a  perfect  climate. 
It  is  surrounded  by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  as  blue  and  as 
beautiful  as  the  famous  Danube.  Nature  in  fact  has 
done  everything  she  could  to  make  the  place  desirable 
as  a  residence  for  man,  but  man  has  done  little  or  noth- 
ing for  himself,  thus  far,  and  if  the  truth  must  be  told, 
notwithstanding  its  favorable  natural  conditions  and  its 
lovely  surroundings,  Key  West  is  not  yet  a  desirable 
place  to  live  in.  It  has  no  sanitary  laws,  for  nothing 
whatever  has  been  done  with  a  view  to  sanitation,  and 
yet  with  the  salt  ocean  all  around  the  little  island,  how 
easy  it  would  be  to  make  it  healthy  and  clean,  for  it 
is  neither  one  nor  the  other.  There  is  no  such  thing  as 
system,  no  sewerage  whatever  in  the  town  excepting 
one  iron  pipe  which  leads  from  one  hotel,  the  Russell 
House,  to  the  sea,  and  even  that  one  pipe  is  allowed  to 
clog  occasionally. 

A  liberally  illustrated  and  large  edition  of  the  Equa- 
tor-Democrat was  issued  in  1889,  which  presents  a  very 
rose-colored  view  of  Key  West.  In  that  paper  I  find 
that  ' '  the  pleasant  streets  running  at  right  angles  are 
as  smooth  and  hard  as  adamant."  I  am  not  certain 
that  I  am  very  well  acquainted  with  adamant,  but  I 
know  that  the  streets  of  Key  West  are  unpaved  and 
that  they  are  the  roughest  and  the  dirtiest  streets  I  ever 
saw.  As  I  have  lived  in  Baltimore,  in  New  York  and  in 
New  Orleans,  my  testimony  ought  to  be  accepted  on 
such  a  theme.  I  speak  of  Key  West  in  fine  w-eather; 
what  it  must  be  in  wet  weather  I  don't  like  to  imagine. 
If  nothing  but  very  deep  ruts,  holes  and  great  gullies  in 
the  roadway  resemble  adamant  then  is  Key  West  ada- 
mantine beyond  doubt. 

There  is  not  a  boot-black  in  the  town  ;  none  is  needed. 
Nobody  thinks  of  blacking  his  shoes  ;  it  would  be  ab- 
surd. I  spoke  on  this  point  with  a  young  New  Yorker 
who  hails  from  the  fashionable  precincts  of  Madison  ave- 
nue.   He  is  a  business  man  who  is  liberal  in  the  matter 


230  A  CUBAN  CTTY  IN  THE  UNITED  ST  A  TES. 

of  money,  usually  dressy,  and  extremely  neat  in  his 
person.  He  has  been  in  Key  West  six  months,  and  in 
all  that  time  not  a  brush  has  passed  over  his  shoes. 

I  regret  to  differ  with  my  learned  and  courteous 
friend,  the  editor  of  the  Democrat,  on  the  subject  of 
hotels.  Let  him  speak  for  himself.  He  says  that  "  The 
Russell  House,  the  leading  hotel  in  the  city,  is  second 
to  none  in  the  State  in  accommodations."  Now  I  had 
an  idea  that  St.  Augustine  and  Jacksonville  and  Tampa 
were  in  Florida,  and  that  there  were  such  hotels  "in 
the  State  "as  the  Ponce  de  ^eon  and  The  Cordova  at 
St.  Augustine,  and  the  new  'fampa  Bay  Hotel  at  Tampa 
Bay,  not  to  mention  a  number  of  other  first-class  houses 
"  in  the  State." 

Directly  opposite  the  Russell  is  the  Duval  House. 
You  may  never  have  heard  of  it ;  it  is  not  one-third  the 
size  of  the  Russell  House.  I  know  nothing  of  the  apart- 
ments of  the  Duval,  for  I  investigated  no  further  than 
the  dining-room,  but  that  was  enough  to  establish  its 
good  reputation.  It  will  be  a  long  time  before  I  forget 
how  beautifully  garnished  a  dish  they  made  at  the  Duval 
of  a  red  snapper,  and  the  delicious  flavor  of  their  Ofne- 
lette  souffl^e  remains  with  me  still.  The  Duval  is  pre- 
sided over  by  a  Ciiban  lady,  Mrs.  Bolio,  who  kept  for 
years  one  of  the  leading  hotels  in  Havana.  She  is  evi- 
dently a  woman  who  knows  what  good  living  is. 

Cigar-making  is  a  very  large  and  important  industry 
in  Key  West.  The  place  was  selected  for  cigar-making 
because  the  climate  is  suited  to  the  "curing"  of  to- 
bacco in  the  leaf,  and  because  it  is  near  Havana. 
There  is  something  also  in  the  name.  Everybody  does 
not  know  that  this  (Spanish)  island  is  United  States 
territory,  and  some  smokers  if  they  see  a  •'  Key  West  " 
label  on  a  box  of  cigars  believe,  without  stopping  to 
think,  that  they  are  smoking  a  foreign-made  cigar. 
Now  a  Key  West  cigar  if  made  from  Havana  tobacco 
of  fine  quality  has  just  as  good  a  flavor  as  if  it  were 


A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  STA  TES.  321 

made  in  Cuba,  but  the  Key  West  cigar  can  be  sold  at  a 
lower  price  because  the  import  duty  on  cigars  is  much 
higher  than  the  duty  on  the  raw  material. 

Having  the  same  climate  as  Havana,  the  best  climate 
in  the  world  for  tobacco  curing,  and  the  cigars  being 
made  by  Cubans,  who  are  the  best  cigar-makers  in  the 
world.  Key  West  turns  out  just  as  good  cigars  as  can 
be  produced  anywhere — provided  always  that  tobacco 
of  the  first  quality  is  used.  And  the  cigar  need  not 
consist  entirely  of  Havana  tobacco.  A  cigar  of  choice 
flavor  is  made  of  a  mixture  of  tobaccos — Havana  ' '  filler  " 
and  "  binder, "  with.  say.  a  "  Connecticut  seed  "  or  Suma- 
tra wrapper. 

The  manufacture  of  cigars  has  without  doubt  aided 
largely  in  building  up  the  business  of  Key  West.  One 
authority  says  that  there  are  two  hundred  factories, 
employing  five  thousand  operatives,  and  transacting  a 
business  amounting  to  seven  millions  of  dollars  annu- 
ally. But  this  report  may  be  exaggerated.  However, 
here  are  some  more  figures,  and  if  the  reader  is  mathe- 
matically inclined  he  can  draw  his  own  conclusions : 
Key  West  during  1890  turned  out  one  hundred  and  forty 
millions  of  cigars. 

There  are  very  few  Spanish  or  American  cigarmakers 
in  Key  West ;  tlie  majority  are  Cubans,  with  a  very 
small  sprinkling  of  negroes.  There  are  so  many  fac- 
tories and  so  many  operatives  that,  although  it  is  a 
cigar-producing  place,  very  few  cigars  indeed  are  sold 
at  retail.  Everybody  smokes,  every  one  invites  you  to 
smoke  ;  cigars  are  almost  as  free  as  the  air.  It  would 
be  a  paradise  for  a  young  dude  who  has  a  slender  purse 
and  who  is  addicted  to  the  weed. 

Upon  the  coiirteous  invitation  of  P.  Pohalski  &  Co., 
who  have  a  branch  in  Havana,  with  headquarters  in 
Franklin  St.,  New  York,  I  paid  a  visit  to  their  factory, 
which  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Key  West,  and  I  was  much 
interested  in  what  I  saw.    Pohalski  &  Co.  erected  their 


222  A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  STA  TES. 

own  factory,  upon  their  own  ground,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
most  imposing  edifices  in  Key  West.  They  also  built 
upon  their  own  land  a  number  of  small  houses  which 
they  rent  to  their  workmen  at  a  moderate  figure ;  for 
its  size  it  is  quite  a  respectable  colony. 

Although  very  large,  employing  several  hundred 
hands,  the  factory  is  orderly,  exceedingly  clean  and 
neat,  showing  good  government.  Perfect  system  reigns 
throughout  the  entire  establishment.  The  first  floor  is 
used  for  the  business  offices,  for  cases  of  tobacco  and 
for  the  "  strippers ; "  the  whole  of  the  second  floor  is  oc- 
cupied by  cigar  makers,  and  the  third  floor  is  used  by 
the  "packers,"  also  for  curing  leaf  tobacco  and  for  stor- 
ing cigars  in  boxes. 

A  "stripper"  is  one  who,  with  the  dexter  finger  and 
thumb  of  the  right  hand  pulls  the  stem  from  the  leaf 
while  the  leaf  is  damp,  the  leaf  being  held  in  the  left 
hand.  It  is  done  by  a  dexterous  and  quick  movement, 
not  a  vestige  of  the  leaf  remaining  on  the  stem.  The 
most  costly  leaves,  for  wrappers,  are  only  entrusted  to 
experienced  operators.  The  strippers  in  this  factory 
are  numbered  by  scores.  They  are  all  females,  all 
Cubans,  and  range  in  age  from  ten  years  old  to  women 
of  fifty. 

It  is  not  a  pleasing  sight  to  one  who  associates  woman 
with  habits  of  refinement,  to  see  the  older  women,  while 
at  their  work  of  stripping,  smoke  long,  thick  cigars. 
They  hold  the  cigar  between  their  teeth  and  seldom 
remove  it,  not  even  to  talk.  They  are  rough-looking 
cigars,  rolled  into  shape  by  the  women  themselves  from 
the  leaves  they  are  stripping. 

A  more  pleasing  picture  is  presented  on  the  cigar- 
making  floor,  above.  You  will  be  surprised  upon  enter- 
ing to  see  a  man  standing  erect  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  book  in  hand,  reading  aloud.  You  cannot  help 
but  notice,  although  Spanish  may  be  Greek  to  you,  that 
the  reader's  voice  is  powerful  and  well  trained,  reach- 


A  CUBAN  CITY  IN  THE  UNITED  ST  A  TES.  223 

ing  to  the  extreme  comers  and  to  the  most  distant  ears 
on  the  vast  floor.  He  is  a  professional  reader.  The 
several  hundred  men  club  together,  each  paying  a  nom- 
inal sum  for  the  reader's  services.  In  this  way,  while 
engaged  in  their  work,  they  hear  the  news  of  the  day 
and  are  regaled  with  the  latest  Spanish  novel. 

"  Packing  "  cigars  is  a  technical  term.  It  is  not  sim- 
ply to  tie  them  up  with  pretty  silk  ribbons  and  place 
them  neatly  in  a  box.  A  packer  is  one  who  assorts  the 
colors  also.  It  is  a  very  nice  and  delicate  piece  of  work. 
It  demands  a  good  eye  for  color  and  long  experience, 
and  then  it  can  only  be  done  in  a  certain  light,  of  course 
not  by  artificial  light,  nor  unless  the  day  is  bright. 

An  overcast,  murky  and  heavy  sky  is  not  good  for 
packing — assorting,  it  might  be  called.  In  a  few  hun- 
dred loose  cigars  placed  on  a  table  ready  for  '  '■  pack- 
ing, "  the  casual  observer  will  probably  see  only  three 
or  four  colors.  They  are  first  assorted  roughly  to  bring 
'  together  those  of  decided  colors — light  brown,  medium, 
dark  brown,  etc.  Then  a  pile  of  dark  or  light  shades  is 
gone  over  again  and  again  until  the  different  piles  of 
cigars  are  alike,  as  if  they  were  all  made  from  one  leaf 
and  turned  out  by  machinery.  The  packer  also  dis- 
cards a  cigar  that  is  not  perfectly  made,  or  one  not  uni- 
form with  the  rest.  A  special  few,  exact  as  to  form  and 
hue,  are  selected  for  the  top  row,  to  catch  and  please 
the  eye  of  the  smoker  when  the  lid  of  the  box  is  raised. 
A  good  packer  is  paid  better  than  any  other  operative 
in  the  business.  Men  and  women  are  employed  in  it, 
some  of  them  earning  as  high  as  twenty-five  or  thirty- 
five  dollars  per  week. 

The  sponge  trade  is  also  a  very  large  and  important 
industry  here.  The  sponges  are  found  in  this  part  of 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  the  trade  gives  employment  to 
a  great  many  people.  I  visited  the  largest  sponge 
house,  that  of  Arapian  &  Co.,  and  saw  there  in  different 
stages,  sponges  valued  at  a  quarter  of  a  million  dollars. 


334  A  CUBAN  CTTY  IN  THE  UNITED  ST  A  TES. 

Such  a  stock  of  sponges,  as  you  can  easily  imagine,  oc- 
cupies much  space.  My  only  surprise  was  to  find  such 
valuable  merchandise  housed  in  a  light  frame  building. 
A  fire  would  spread  easily,  and  the  whole  would  be 
rapidly  consumed. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  dirty,  unpaved  streets  of  Key 
West ;  it  would  be  unfair  not  to  mention  a  lovely  drive 
which  you  can  take  for  a  few  miles  on  the  edge  of  the 
Gulf.  You  go  around  the  old  forts,  you  see  lighthouses 
and  other  interesting  objects  en  route,  the  bracing  air 
from  the  Gulf  fans  your  cheeks,  the  ocean  is  spread  out 
before  you,  and  if  you  returihi  in  the  early  evening,  and 
near  dinner  time,  you  will  most  likely  be  favored  with  a 
grand  sunset,  and  you  will  surely  have  a  keen  appetite. 

Key  West  is  reached  from  New  York  by  steamers  of 
the  Mallory  line,  and  from  New  Orleans  by  New  Or- 
leans and  Havana  steamers,  but  decidedly  the  best 
and  most  luxurious  way  of  going  to  the  island  is  by  the 
Plant  line  of  steamers  which  leave  Tampa,  Florida  and 
Havana,  Cuba,  three  times  a  week.  The  "  Mascotte  " 
and  "  Olivette  "  were  built  for  this  route.  They  are 
both  staunch,  swift,  beautifully  appointed  ships,  whose 
commanders  were  in  the  Atlantic  service  for  years,  the 
"Olivette"  being  the  fastest  boat  of  her  size  in  the 
world — a  model  vessel. 

If  you  are  going  to  Key  West  for  pleasure — it  is  possi- 
ble for  people  to  go  there  with  that  end  in  view — you 
will  go  from  New  York  to  Jacksonville  via  the  Pennsyl- 
vania and  Atlantic  coast  lines  and  there  take  the  Jack- 
sonville, Tampa  and  Key  West  Railroad,  although  part 
of  this  "railway"  journey  consists  of  a  sail  on  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico,  from  Tampa. 

The  island,  with  all  its  objectionable  features,  has 
churches  of  different  denominations,  it  has  convents, 
good  schools,  and  has  one  large  substantial  and  beauti- 
ful brick  and  stone  building  for  a  custom  house,  for 
which  the  government  appropriated  one  himdred  thous- 
and dollars. 

Key  West  has  a  police  force  numbering  fourteen  offi- 
cers, including  men  of  all  colors  and  several  nationalities. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE. 


AN  ANCIENT  CITY  MODERNIZED. 

What  a  contrast,  to  leave  the  dust  and  dirt  of  Key  West, 
its  unpaved  roadways,  full  of  deep  ruts,  large  holes  and 
great  gullies :  Key  West,  with  its  mixed  population  of 
twenty  thousand  negroes,  Cubans,  Chinamen  and  white 
folks :  Key  West,  minus  sidewalks,  and  minus  many 
evidences  of  a  high  state  of  civilization  :  what  a  con- 
trast is  it  to  arrive  in  this  beautiful  city  of  the  South, 
with  its  smooth-paved  streets,  its  cleanly  and  aristo- 
cratic air,  and  its  three  wondrously  beautiful  Spanish 
hotels,  all  within  speaking  distance  of  each  other.  It  is 
like  leaping,  if  I  may  use  such  an  expression,  from  hades 
to  heaven. 

The  changes  here  within  the  past  "four  years  are  great. 
Most  important  to  the  tourist  is  the  erection  of  a  railway 
bridge  which  crosses  the  St.  John's  River.  Four  years 
ago  you  were  obliged  to  stop  at  Jacksonville  if  you  ap- 
proached from  the  north ;  if  from  the  south,  you 
steamed  across  on  a  ferry-boat  from  Palatka.  Now  you 
take  your  seat  in  a  drawing-room  car  at  Jersey  City,  in 
the  North,  or  at  Tampa,  if  you  approach  from  the 
South,  and  you  need  not  leave  the  car  until  the  conduc- 
tor calls  out  "  St.  Augustine  " — thirty-one  hours  by  ves- 
tibuled  train  from  New  York,  twelve  hours  by  the  West 
India  Fast  Mail  from  the  Gulf,  at  Tampa. 

As  to  other  changes,  much  land  has  been  reclaimed 
from  the  river,  miles  of  roadway  have  been  asphalted 
and  paved  with  wooden  blocks  ;  the  old  fort  is  being  re- 
stored, for  which  work  the  government  has  appropriated 

22*") 


336  57:  AUGUSTINE. 

$15,000;  many  new  houses  have  been  built,  all  of  co- 
quina  and  in  the  Moorish  style  ;  to  the  oldest  house  in 
the  town  has  been  added  a  new  stone  tower  ;  there  has 
been  erected  a  new  City  Hall,  which  includes  a  fine 
market ;  and  to  crown  it  all,  as  it  were,  there  is  a  new 
church,  a  Memorial  Presbyterian  Church,  built  in  mem- 
ory of  the  beautiful  daughter  Mr,  Flagler  lost  two  years 
ago.  The  structure  is  so  attractive,  so  pleasing  to  the 
eye,  that  in  driving  away  from  it  you  find  yourself  con- 
stantly turning  around  to  keep  its  graceful  architectural 
lines  in  view  as  long  as  possible. 

It  is  probably  not  possible  to  enhance  the  splendor  of 
the  Ponce  de  Leon  Hotel,  the  drawing-room  of  which, 
with  its  magnificent  proportions,  its  onyx  fire-place,  its 
ceiling  decorations,  its  rich  carpets  and  furniture,  and 
its  rare  paintings  by  Bridgman,  Koppay,  and  other 
artists,  is  not  rivalled  by  any  other  hotel  in  the  world. 
To  call  it  palatial  is  no  compliment  to  "  the  Ponce  "  par- 
lor, for  I  have  seen  no  apartments  in  royal  palaces  that 
are  more  pleasing,  and  I  have  been  favored  with  a  view 
of  many  palaces  in  many  countries. 

The  smooth  and  pleasant  walk  around  the  Alcazar 
Hotel  measures  just  half  a  mile.  The  colored  boys 
know :  •they  use  it  semi-occasionally  for  a  foot  or  bicycle 
race  :  "  twice  around  the  Alcazar  is  one  mile  "  they  will 
tell  you. 

One  of  the  novel  features  of  the  Alcazar  is  the  swim- 
ming pool,  into  which  the  sulphur  water  rushes  up  from 
the  artesian  well  with  great  force.  There  is  room  in  the 
pool  (40  by  1 20  feet)  for  scores  of  swimmers,  and  there  is 
always  a  number  of  visitors  looking  from  the  galleries 
above  on  the  lively  scene  below.  With  the  mercury 
ranging  between  70  and  80  the  sulphur  water  is  indeed 
refreshing ;  and  they  say  it  is  quite  invigorating.  Tem- 
perature of  the  water,  75  degrees. 

Mr.  Flagler  has  bought  all  the  land  around  and  about 
his  three  hotels,  so  that  nobody  can  erect  anything  any- 


ST.  AUGUSTINE.  VSfl 

where  near  him.     He  is  not  the  man  to  do  anything  by 
halves. 

The  sitting-room  in  which  this  is  penned  is  one  of  a 
suite  I  occupy  in  the  castellated  tower  on  a  comer  of  the 
Hotel  Cordova.  The  walls  of  the  building  are  of  gray 
coquina.  Outside  each  window  is  a  small  and  separate 
"kneeling  balcony,"  protected  by  ornamental  iron  rail- 
ings, painted  a  reddish  brown— such  balconies  as  you 
see  in  some  buildings  in  Madrid.  The  windows  have 
white  lace  curtains  and  the  shades  are  alternately  blue- 
and  crimson — contrasting  pleasantly  with  the  neutral 
tint  of  the  outer  walls.  To  the  east,  within  stone's 
throw,  is  Cordova  Park ;  to  the  west,  the  same  distance, 
is  the  one-acre  park  of  the  Alcazar,  with  its  tropical 
foliage,  pretty  walks  and  handsome  fountain ;  while 
diagonally  opposite,  same  distance  again  (about  one 
hundred  feet),  loom  up  the  terra-cotta  turrets,  towers, 
arches  and  gabled  roofs  of  the  Ponce  de  Leon  Hotel, 
with  its  grand  park  of  four  and  a  half  acres.  This  may 
convey  some  idea  of  the  situation  ;  to  describe  the  scene 
requires  the  pen  if  not  the  pencil  of  an  artist. 

The  manager  of  these  three  grand  hotels  in  St.  August- 
ine is  O.  D.  Seavey,  who  is  also  entrusted  in  summer 
time  with  the  management  of  the  magnificent  Hotel 
Champlain,  on  Lake  Champlain.  In  the  winter  season 
Mr.  Seavey 's  address  is  St.  Augustine,  Fla. ;  in  the  sum- 
mer he  should  be  addressed  Hotel  Champlain,  Clinton 
County,  N.  Y. 


ABOUT  TAMPA. 


THE  INN.  PORT  TAMPA,  FLA. 


Tampa  is  of  interest  historically,  being  the  place 
where  Ferdinand  De  Soto  landed  May  25,  1539.  From 
here  he  started  on  his  search  for  the  mines  of  wealth 
supposed  to  exist  in  the  new  world,  which  resulted  in 
the  discovery  of  the  Mississippi  river.  It  is  here  also 
that  Narvaez,  having  obtained  a  grant  of  Florida  from 
Charles  V.  of  Spain,  landed  with  a  large  force  April  16. 
1528. 

Tampa  is  on  the  Gulf  coast  of  Florida,  two  hundred 
and  forty  miles  from  Jacksonville.  There  are  two  trains 
daily  with  Pullman  cars  from  Jacksonville  and  St. 
Augustine  to  Tampa,  passing  through  Palatka,  Sanford 
and  Winter  Park,  both  having  direct  connection  with  all 
Eastern  and  Western  cities  and  one  being  a  through 
train  from  New  York. 

Its  rapid  growth  during  the  past  seven  years  from 
about  eight  hundred  inhabitants  to  as  many  thousands, 
has  been  brought  about  by  the  Plant  system,  which 
completed  the  South  Florida  railroad  to  Tampa  for  the 
purpose  of  developing  Tampa  commercially. 

Dr.  Long,  a  United  States  army  surgeon,  wrote  of 
Fort  Brooks,  at  Tampa,  "This  post  has  always  been 
considered  a  delightful  station."  Dr.  Long's  reports 
and  other  reports  to  the  surgeon-general  at  Washington 
show  it  to  be  one  of  the  most  healthful  stations  in  the 
country. 

Peninsulas  have  always  been  thought  desirable  be- 
cause of  their  climate,  which  gives  them  advantages 

328 


ABOUT  TAMPA.  329 

over  other  localities,  and  among  peninsulas  Florida 
is  unrivalled  because  of  its  latitude  and  particulariy 
as  it  is  affected  by  the  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico. 

The  investment  of  large  capital  in  constructing  a  new 
hotel  in  Florida  with  the  expectation  of  drawing  to  it 
the  requisite  patronage,  demanded  a  knowledge  of  the 
requirements  of  winter  tourists  who  visit  the  place  for 
health  or  pleasure.  Those  requirements  have  been 
carefully  studied  by  Mr.  H.  B.  Plant,  president  of  the 
Plant  Investment  Company,  acting  under  the  advice  of 
eminent  scientists,  in  the  selection  of  Tampa.  The  new 
hotel  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hillsborough 
river  where  it  empties  into  Tampa  bay,  opposite  to  and 
facing  the  city,  which  is  within  easy  walking  distance. 
From  the  river  to  the  front  of  the  hotel  there  are  exten- 
sive lawns  and  flower  beds,  with  orange,  palm  and  other 
tropical  trees,  the  hotel  grounds  and  property  including 
twenty-two  acres.  At  the  rear  of  the  house  there  is  a 
long  stretch  of  pine  lands. 

As  you  view  the  house  at  a  distance,  from  the  deck  of 
a  steamer,  or  from  a  car  window,  with  its  long  stretch 
of  brick  front,  its  iron  and  stone  trimmings,  its  many 
towers  with  great  and  gorgeous  silver-bronzed,  balloon- 
shaped  domes,  each  surmounted  by  a  shining  gold 
crescent,  it  impresses  you  at  once  as  being  a  great 
oriental  palace.  And  this  idea  is  aided  by  the  palms 
and  other  tropical  trees  and  shrubs  by  which  it  is 
surrounded. 

The  oriental  idea  also  strikes  you  as  you  enter.  There 
is  a  grand  "  office,"  the  ceilings  are  supported  by  stout 
marble  columns,  and  the  music-room,  the  drawing- 
room,  and  all  the  minor  rooms  on  the  main  floor  are 
furnished  in  the  very  best  taste,  the  matter  of  expense 
never  seeming  to  be  a  question  with  those  who 
selected  the  furniture  and  decorations  in  different  parts 
of  the  world.     It  is  safe  to  say  that  very  few  winter 


280  ABOUT  TAMPA. 

or  summer  resort  hotels  in  this  country  are  as  richly 
furnished. 

The  hotel  has  been  most  thoroughly  constructed  and 
is  practically  fireproof,  the  outer  and  inner  walls  being 
of  brick,  with  steel  beams  and  concrete  floors.  There 
has  been  the  most  approved  scientific  work  in  drainage 
and  plumbing,  and  there  is  an  abundant  supply  of  good 
water.  On  each  floor  the  wide  hall  extends  the  entire 
length  of  the  main  building — 512  feet.  There  are  no  in- 
side rooms.  Every  room  has  the  sun  during  some  por- 
tion of  the  day,  and  a  largd  number  of  suites  have  pri- 
vate baths.  The  house  is  heated  by  steam,  in  addition 
to  which  there  are  open  fire-places  in  the  rooms.  The 
latest  improvements  have  been  introduced  in  lighting. 

Mr.  Plant  did  a  great  deal  for  Tampa  when  he  ran  his 
railroad  down  there.  His  lines  of  steamers  from  Tampa 
to  Havana  and  Mobile  have  greatly  helped  the  pros- 
perity of  the  place,  and  now  he  has  crowned  his  good 
work  by  putting  up  a  magnificent  hotel  utterly  regard- 
less of  the  cost.  If  there  was  not  already  a  Plant  City  in 
Florida,  I  should  suggest  to  change  the  name  of  Tampa  to 
Plant  City.  The  house  will  accommodate  four  hundred 
guests ;  the  rates  are  five  dollars  per  day.  It  is  only  open 
during  the  winter,  from  Christmas  until  the  first  of  April. 
But  do  not  go  to  Tampa  without  your  summer  clothes. 


All  the  above  relates  to  the  big  new  hotel  at  Tampa 
Bay,  but  all  of  it  is  written  at  the  Inn,  in  Port  Tampa, 
distant  from  Tampa  Bay  proper  nine  miles.  The  Inn  is 
"little,"  it  accommodates  only  seventy-five  guests,  but  it 
is  a  gem  of  a  hotel.  It  is  built  on,  or  rather  over,  the  water 
on  piles,  and  is  like  an  island,  being  actually  surrounded 
by  water.  There  is  always  a  pleasant  breeze  on  one 
side  of  the  house,  and  a  breeze  is  very  grateful  in  this 
latitude.  As  I  write,  the  mercury  in  a  thermometer 
hanging  outside  my  bedroom  window  marks  75  degrees ; 
this  is  at  5  P.M.,  Saturday,  January  31.    We  sleep  with 


ABOUT  TAMPA.  381 

open  windows,  and  nothing  more  than  your  pajama  or 
a  sheet  is  necessary  for  a  covering. 

Two  sides  of  the  dining-room  are  composed  entirely 
of  sliding-windows  through  which  you  can  see  wild 
ducks  and  fish  in  great  quantities.  I  have  seen  wild 
ducks  hauled  in  by  the  waiters  through  the  open  win- 
dows of  this  dining-room.  You  can  throw  a  line  into 
the  water  as  you  sit  at  dinner  and  if  it  be  properly 
baited  you  will  probably  find  a  mullet  at  the  end  of  the 
cord  before  you  reach  your  cafe  noir. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  there  are  good  sailing  and 
fishing  at  Port  Tampa :  Spanish  mackerel  and  the  pom- 
pano  abound,  the  latter  conceded  by  epicures  to  be  one 
of  the  most  exquisitely  flavored  fish  in  the  world.  Here 
also  is  the  famous  tarpon — Silver  King  he  has  been 
christened.  In  fact  Port  Tampa  is  a  very  paradise  for 
sportsmen.  It  is  easy  to  supply  the  table  with  oysters, 
fish  and  game  in  profusion.  The  table,  by  the  way,  is 
liberally  provided,  and  the  service  by  Swiss  and  French 
waiters  is  good. 

The  dining-room  of  the  Tampa  Inn  reminds  you  of 
the  dining-room  of  the  Hygeia  Hotel  at  Old  Point  Com- 
fort, not  for  its  size,  but  for  its  water  surroundings,  and 
the  scene  outside  brings  up  recollections  of  the  Surf 
Hotel  at  Fire  Island.  Picnic  Island,  across  the  Gulf  one 
mile,  might  be  a  bit  of  Long  Island.  But  there  the 
similarity  ends  because  the  Inn,  unlike  the  Surf  Hotel, 
is  a  new  house  and  is  luxuriously  furnished. 

Steamers  leave  here  weekly  (every  Tuesday)  for 
Mobile,  and  tri-weekly  (Monday,  Thursday  and  Satur- 
day), for  Key  West  and  Havana. 

The  railway  depot  conveying  you  to  Tampa  Bay  (fre- 
quent daily  trains),  is  at  the  door  of  the  hotel,  and  from 
this  same  depot  you  can  get  a  through  car  to  Jackson- 
ville or  to  New  York. 

The  rates  at  the  Inn  are  four  and  five  dollars  a  day. 
It  is  proposed  to  keep  it  open  all  the  year. 


MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA. 

The  name  Monterey  means  King's  Mountain  and  was 
bestowed  on  the  place  in  1602  by  Don  Sebastian  Viz- 
caino in  honor  of  Jaspar  de  Zuniga,  Conte  de  Monterey, 
at  that  time  Viceroy  of  Mexico.  It  was  he  who  sug- 
gested and  projected  the  expedition  undertaken  by 
Vizcaino.  ■ 

When  the  members  of  this  expedition  returned  to 
Spain  the  place  returned  to  its  primitive  condition  and 
nothing  was  heard  of  it  till  a  band  of  Franciscan  mis- 
sionaries arrived  on  this  coast  in  1768,  one  hundred  and 
sixty-eight  years  after  the  first  discovery.  This  expe- 
dition came  under  the  direction  and  guidance  of  the 
president  of  the  band,  Father  Junipero  Serra. 

At  the  risk  of  being  charged  with  sacrilege,  I  will  in- 
terpolate right  amid  this  ancient  history  a  bit  of  fresh 
and  interesting  news  imparted  to  me  by  a  driver.  He 
showed  me  from  the  road  a  high  plateau  overlook- 
ing the  sea,  where  plainly  to  the  naked  eye  were  to  be 
seen  preparations  for  receiving  a  statue,  which  is  to  be 
in  place  and  to  be  dedicated  before  long.  It  will  be  in 
honor  of  Father  Junipero  before  mentioned;  it  will  cost 
ten  thousand  dollars,  and  the  wife  of  Senator  Leland 
Stanford  will  foot  the  bill.  The  site  for  the  statue  is  a 
magnificent  one,  and  if  the  work  of  art  be  worthy  of  its 
position,  the  city  of  Monterey  will  have  something  it 
may  be  proud  of. 

There's  a  "  History  of  Monterey  County"  by  E.  S. 
Harrison.  I  didn't  know  before  I  came  here  and  looked 
into  it  that  Monterey  was  the  first  place  settled  in  the 
State  of  California;  that  the  first  custom  house  in  the 

232 


MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA.  3S8 

State  (now  an  old  rookery)  was  established  here ;  that 
Monterey  was  once  not  only  a  bustling  city,  but  the 
capital  of  the  State.  It  is  not  a  wholly  deserted  village 
now,  but  its  commercial  glory,  like  that  of  Newport, 
R.  I.,  which  was  once  a  greater  port  of  entry  than  New 
York,  has  departed,  never  to  return.  But  Monterey  will 
always  be  dear  to  the  hearts  of  Califomians,  from  its 
historic  associations  and  connections. 

"  The  first  European  lady  to  come  to  California,"  says 
Harrison,  "was  the  wife  of  Governor  Pages,  who  ar- 
rived in  Monterey  in  1783.  Their  child,  bom  about  1784, 
was  probably  the  first  child  born  in  California  of  Europ- 
ean parents." 

Monterey  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-six  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  and  is  easily  reached  in  about  four  hours 
by  the  Coast  Division  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company. 
On  the  way,  in  San  Mateo  county  (en  passant,  what 
musical  names  all  these  counties  and  mountains  have), 
within  ten  to  forty  miles  from  the  starting  point.  Third 
and  Townsend  streets,  you  pass  the  rural  homes  ot 
San  Francisco's  millionaires.  Some  are  set  in  great 
forests  of  oak  surrounded  by  acres  of  flowers  in  peren- 
nial bloom.  Next,  the  beautiful  city  of  San  Jose  comes 
in  view,  and  a  flourishing  city  it  appears  to  be  from  the 
car  windows.  As  the  train  rolls  along  you  keep  in  sight 
for  many  miles  the  dome  of  the  Lick  Observatory, 
which  glistens  in  the  sunlight  on,  the  summit  of  Mount 
Hamilton. 

And  then  you  haven't  eyes  enough  to  take  in  and  en- 
joy the  beautiful  views  of  ocean,  river,  valley  and 
mountain  as  the  train  dashes  along — the  Coast  Range 
mountains  on  your  left,  on  the  right  the  Santa  Cruz 
mountains,  with  the  sun  setting  behind  them — a  glori- 
ous moving  panorama. 

After  passing  what  is  called  the  most  fertile  valley  in 
the  State  Monterey  is  reached,  if  that  be  your  destina- 
tion, but  there  is  a  more  important  station  one  mile  this 


334  MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA. 

side  of  Monterey.  When  the  conductor  calls  out  "  Hotel 
del  Monte  "  very  few  passengers  in  the  cars  remain 
seated,  and  the  train  speeds  on  to  the  sleepy  old  town 
of  Monterey,  almost  empty. 

The  first  action  which  the  Pacific  Improvement  Com- 
pany took  when  they  concluded  to  make  of  this  place  a 
summer  and  winter  resort  was  to  purchase  some  land 
for  the  purpose,  so  they  purchased  seven  thousand  acres. 
Part  of  this  domain  was  a  forest,  and  of  this  they 
selected  for  their  hotel  ' '  garden  "  a  simple  matter  of 
one  hundred  and  twenty-six  aerfs.  Forty  acres  of  this  they 
cultivated  in  flower-beds,  lawns,  vegetables  and  fruit ; 
the  rest  they  allowed  to  remain  as  nature  left  it, 
after  hiring  the  services  of  a  landscape  gardener  to 
lay  out  within  their  gates  a  few  miles  for  drives  and 
paths. 

Then  it  occurred"  to  them  that  it  would  be  well  to  have 
a  grand  outside  drive  as  an  additional  attraction,  so  they 
made  one,  cutting  away  mountain,  forest  and  bluff ; 
going  through  the  woods,  four  or  five  miles  ;  skirting 
the  ocean  for  the  same  distance  ;  altogether  a  nice  little 
post-prandial  drive  of  seventeen  miles.  But  this  is  not 
much — for  California.  The  drive  being  private  prop- 
erty it  is  used  only  for  the  guests  of  the  Hotel  del 
Monte,  the  owners  of  which  keep  it  in  the  best  order, 
and  in  summer  time  have  it  watered.  It  is  macadam- 
ized and  in  as  good  condition  as  the  drives  in  Central 
Park,  New  York. 

The  road  winds  toward  the  bay  through  a  forest  of 
oaks  and  pines.  For  two  or  three  miles  it  will  be  cool, 
dark,  shaded  and  sweet  smelling,  and  presently  you  get 
a  view  of  the  ocean.  If  the  wind  is  high,  as  it  was  on 
the  twenty-second  of  March,  you  will  see  foaming  white- 
caps  in  the  distance,  and  the  spray  dashing  wildly  on 
the  bare  brown  rocks  in  the  foreground,  making  a  pic- 
ture which,  on  the  day  we  saw  it,  was  awfully  grand. 
I  don't  mean  this  in  the  sense  that  girls  do  when  they 


MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA.  235 

say  a  thing  is  "awfully  nice  ;"  I  mean  that  the  boister- 
ous waves  were  almost  frightful  with  their  impetuous 
rush  and  their  terrible  roar. 

To  quote  dear  old  Fitz-Greene  Halleck,  whose  statue 
in  Central  Park  few  recognize  : 

The  winds  of  March  were  humming 
Their  parting  song,  their  parting  song. 

It  was  a  habit  of  my  predecessor  on  the  Home  Journal, 
General  George  P.  Morris,  to  publish  annually  this 
sweet  song  of  Halleck's  in  the  Home  Journal  during  the 
first  week  of  March.  It  was  a  singular  fancy  of  Morris's 
and  it  pleased  his  brother  poet. 

But  I  am  getting  away  from  my  story — and  the  surf. 
The  seals  didn't  seem  to  mind  the  roaring  surf  or  howl- 
ing wind.  Their  unearthly  bark  formed  part  of  the 
grand  chorus.  They  tossed  their  heads  and  rolled  their 
ungainly  bodies  about  with  all  the  grace  at  their  com- 
mand, which  is  not  saying  much  for  their  sylph-like 
movements.     No;  water  is  their  element. 

If  you  expect  to  see  the  seals  of  the  same  color  as  the 
sealskin  sacques  worn  by  women,  you  may  not  see  the 
seals  at  all,  for  they  match  in  color  with  the  brownish 
gray  rocks  on  which  they  romp.  They  have  not  gone 
through  the  process  of  "  London  dyeing."  In  fact  they 
are  not  fur  seals,  and,  in  reality  not  seals  at  all  in  the 
popular  sense,  but  sea  lions.  I  accepted  the  driver's 
statement  that  there  were  five  hundred  seals  on  the 
rocks. 

The  cultivated  grounds  of  the  Hotel  del  Monte  aston- 
ish you  with  their  size  and  beauty  and  with  the  neatness 
and  order  in  which  they  are  kept.  Probably  not  else- 
where is  there  such  variety  in  floriculture.  Everything 
from  everywhere  seems  to  thrive  here.  Nor  do  I  know 
of  any  section  of  country  where  there  are  such  noble 
oaks  and  pines,  but  probably  the  company  claim  too 
much  when  they  say  that  "  the  garden  is  the  finest,  the 


386  MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA.  ' 

most  gorgeous,  the  richest  and  inost  varied  in  all  the 
world."  It  seems  to  me  that  the  Tuileries  Gardens  are 
richer  and  that  the  gardens  in  Hyde  Park  are  more 
pleasing  to  the  eye  and  the  sense  of  smell.  I  speak  of 
the  floral  display  only ,  but  I  saw  the  foreign  gardens  at 
their  best  season  and  the  Del  Monte  gardens  in  March. 
Flowering  plants,  habitats  of  regions  below  the  equator, 
bloom  freely  at  Del  Monte  throughout  the  winter  in  the 
open,  retaining  their  original  habit  without  the  aid  of 
glass. 

The  trees  are  wonderful.  \  carry  with  me  not  only  a 
thermometer  but  a  tiny  tape  measixre,  the  latter  in  my 
pocket.  I  asked  the  driver  to  stop  as  we  were  driving 
through  the  grounds,  while  I  measured  a  pine  and  I 
found  that  it  was  four  and  a  half  yards  in  circumference 
near  the  ground.  The  driver  told  me  how  tall  it  was, 
but  I  will  not  quote  him  as  I'm  not  giving  you  "  Califor- 
nia stories. "  This  pine  was  not  pointed  out  nor  did  I 
select  it  for  its  size.  There  were  others  within  a  few 
feet  of  where  this  giant  stood  just  as  large,  and  for  all  I 
know  there  are  hundreds  on  the  ground  much  larger. 

Of  course  the  palm  abounds,  all  trees  of  tropical 
growth  are  here;  there  are  calla  lilies  for  borders,  vio- 
lets, heliotrope,  nasturtium,  honeysuckle  in  wild  pro- 
fusion, and  this  in  March,  mind  you.  Is  there  ivy? 
' '  Well,  rather, "  as  an  Englishman  might  answer  such  a 
question.  A  leaf  now  lies  on  my  table  which  measures 
five  inches  across.  The  grounds  are  in  charge  of  a 
skilled  landscape  gardner  with  a  force  of  thirty-five  men 
— English,  American  and  Chinese. 

Foreigners  from  other  lands  may  rail  against  the 
Chinese  as  much  as  they  please,  and  our  legislators  may 
be  right  in  excluding  them  lest  they  overrun  the  coun- 
try, but  it  must  be  said  in  their  favor  that  they  are  a 
peaceful,  industrious  set,  and  there  are  no  better  ser- 
vants for  indoor  or  outdoor  work.  Under  certain  con- 
ditions, however,  they  are  as  obstinate  as  mules.  When 


MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA.  237 

you  engage  them  you  must  be  exceedingly  careful  in 
giving  them  instructions,  for  they  will  always  continue 
to  do  what  they  are  at  first  told  to  do;  you  cannot 
change  their  ways. 

Mr.  George  Schonewald,  manager  of  Hotel  del  Monte, 
while  we  were  chatting  in  his  office,  illustrated  it  to  me 
in  this  way:  "  Observe  that  Chinaman  wiping  carefully 
the  casing  of  that  white  door.  He  was  told  when  he. 
first  came  here  that  he  was  to  do  that  sort  of  work  at 
this  time  of  day,  and  if  the  heavens  fall  he'll  do  it.  If  I 
were  to  ask  him  this  minute  to  leave  that  door  and  pol- 
ish this  plate  glass  window  he  might  obey,  but  it  would 
upset  him  for  the  day,  if  not  for  all  time.  If  you  change 
your  mind  and  want  the  work  done  in  a  different  way 
you  had  better  change  your  Chinaman,  you  can't  change 
their  ways.  This  is  the  general  experience  with  Chinese 
labor  in  California. 

And  this  brings  me  to  the  fact  that  nearly  all  the 
walls  and  all  the  interior  woodwork  of  these  g^eat  build- 
ings are  painted  white.  The  lack  of  color  becomes  a 
little  tiresome  to  the  eye,  but  one  thing  comforts  you, 
it  is  kept  white — not  a  mark,  not  a  spot  to  mar  its  per- 
fection. Chinamen  are  always  washing  either  doors, 
windows,  surbase,  or  whatever  part  of  the  floor  is  not 
carpeted;  all  is  pure  white  except  the  floor  of  the  beauti- 
ful dining-room,  which  is  of  dark  English  oak  kept 
highly  polished. 

The  series  of  buildings  is  in  the  modem  Gothic  style, 
the  main  building  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  front, 
with  a  central  tower  eighty  feet  high  and  wings  or  an- 
nexes two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  long,  showing  an 
entire  floor  area  of  sixteen  acres.  An  acre  or  two,  more 
or  less,  is  nothing — in  California.  The  bed-room  in 
which  this  is  written  is  an  ordinary  room  here,  eighteen 
by  sixteen  feet.  Even  the  marble  wash-basin  is  worth 
measuring — three  feet  three  in  circumference.  Run- 
ning water,  gas,  fireplaces;  and  closets  built  with  par- 


338,  MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA, 

tition  walls  in  every  room.  There  are  five  hundred  and 
ten  rooms,  and  seven  hundred  people  can  be  accom- 
modated comfortably. 

I  am  surprised  here,  as  I  have  been  elsewhere  in  Cali- 
fornia, at  the  low  rates  which  obtain  at  hotels.  A 
placard  on  the  door  of  this  well-furnished  room,  with 
beautiful  walls  and  ceiling  and  a  luxurious  bed,  reads: 
"  Rate  for  this  room,  with  board,  for  one  person  $3.50; 
for  two  $6.50.  With  bath-room  $4  and  $7  per  day."  And 
in  the  bath-room  there  appears  to  be  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  boiling  water.  Th^re  is  no  charge  made  in 
the  ladies'  billiard  room,  which  adjoins  the  parlor;  no 
charge  for  use  of  boats  on  the  twenty-acre  lake. 

If  the  plumbing  is  right,  and  so  it  appears  to  be,  there 
is  no  trouble  with  the  question  of  drainage,  the  ocean 
being  at  the  door.  The  drinking  water  is  brought  from 
Carmel  river,  eighteen  miles  distant,  in  the  mountains. 
A  ton  of  ice  per  day  is  made  on  the  premises.  Some  of 
the  vegetables  are  raised  near  the  hotel,  and  there  is  a 
dairy  farm  connected  with  the  property  measuring  un- 
told acres. 

Native  wines  are  sold  at  Hotel  del  Monte  lower  than 
I've  seen  them  either  here  or  abroad.  It's  easy  to  be  a 
"swell"  at  Del  Monte.  A  half  bottle  of  Zinfandel  is 
opened  and  served  at  table  for  fifteen  cents,  and  a  very 
good  wine  it  is,  too,  so  far  as  pleasing  my  palate  goes. 
But  I  don't  profess  to  be  so  well  versed  in  wines  as  the 
late  Sam  Ward  or  the  present  Ward  McAllister.  There 
is  a  secret,  however,  in  the  low  charge  for  California 
wine  at  Hotel  del  Monte — the  company  have  theii  own 
vineyards.  What  haven't  they  got  ?  They  have  noth- 
ing less  than  a  Stein  way  concert  grand  in  the  parlor 
and  another  in  the  ball-room. 

There's  a  feature  that  almost  escaped  being  put 
down,  and  yet  it  is  worthy  of  special  mention.  To  the 
first  floors  in  the  two  annexes  you  neither  ascend  nor 
descend  any  stairs  ;  nor  do  you  to  the  second  floor.    To 


MONTEREY.  CALIFORNIA.  239 

the  first  floor  you  descend  an  inclined  hall  or  arcade  ;  to 
the  second  you  ascend  an  inclined  arcade.  If  you  have 
a  room  even  on  the  third  floor  you  only  walk  up  one 
flight  of  stairs,  unless  you  prefer  the  elevator. 

This  is  not  a  new  idea,  however.  I  remember  being 
shown  through  an  old,  unused  palace  in  Berlin  which 
was  constructed  in  the  same  way.  A  member  of  the 
royal  house  was  weak  in  the  knees  from  rheumatism 
and  so  was  rolled  on  a  sedan  chair  up  and  down  in  this 
way.  The  porter  at  this  hotel,  wheeling  his  truck  "up- 
stairs "  loaded  with  trunks,  reminded  me  of  the  rheu- 
matic royalty. 

In  all  hotels  recently  constructed  there  is  an  electric 
bell  as  well  as  an  electric  button  in  every  room.  If  you 
leave  word  to  be  called  in  the  morning,  there's  no  rap- 
ping outside  your  door — rapping  loud  enough  to  awaken 
every  sleeper  near  your  apartment.  There  is  an  elec- 
tric button  in  the  office  which  connects  with  a  bell  in 
your  room,  and  to  this  call  you  will  respond.  There  is 
no  escape  from  it ;  you  must  get  out  of  bed  to  stop  the 
ringing. 

The  first  Hotel  del  Monte,  opened  in  1880,  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  :  the  new  house  was  erected  five  years 
ago.  The  present  manager,  Mr.  George  Schonewald, 
opened  the  first  house  and  superintended  the  construc- 
tion of  the  second.  As  his  name  indicates,  he  is  not  to 
the  manor  born.  He  arrived  in  this  country  twenty-five 
years  ago  without  a  penny  in  his  pocket,  but  with  a  de- 
termination to  make  a  position  for  himself.  There  is 
no  secret  in  his  success.  Anybody  can  gain  success 
who  will  follow  the  Schonewald  method.  It  was  not 
"  blind  luck  "  with  him,  but  industry,  unceasing  indus- 
try, directed  with  unusual  intelligence. 

Schonewald  fitted  himself  thoroughly  for  his  position. 
On  his  arrival  in  this  country  he  decided  to  be  a  practi- 
cal confectioner,  and  not  long  after  he  received  the  high- 
est salary  ever  paid  in  the  State  to  a  confectioner.   Then 


240  MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA. 

he  took  to  cooking  and  earned  the  highest  salary  ever 
paid  to  a  cook  in  the  State.  Step  by  step  has  he  moved 
from  the  very  bottom  round  of  the  ladder  to  the  man- 
agement of  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  hotels  in  the 
country. 

Schonewald  is  a  worker.  He  is  supposed  to  take 
three  meals  a  day,  but  sometimes  his  breakfast  is  not 
touched  till  late  in  the  afternoon.  From  my  window  I 
have  seen  him  driving  about  rapidly  in  a  buggy  before 
my  toilet  was  completed  ;  and  your  humble  servant,  as 
a  general  rule,  is  out  of  bed  ^efore  seven  A.M.  The  in- 
terests of  the  company  first,  his  own  comfort  last,  seems 
to  be  this  manager's  motto. 

Yes,  your  Germans  are  workers.  Mrs.  Schonewald 
is  her  husband's  helpmeet:  she  fills  the  position  of 
housekeeper  at  Hotel  del  Monte,  and  that  probably  ac- 
counts for  the  bed-rooms  being  so  comfortably  furnished 
— a  rocker  here,  an  easy,  arm-chair  there,  with  a  neat 
white  "tidy  "on  the  upholstered  back.  There's  noth- 
ing like  a  woman's  eye,  a  woman's  thoughtfulness  in 
providing  all  the  tasteful  etceteras  which  make  a  home 
comfortable  and  complete. 

I  will  close  with  a  clipping  from  the  tourist  book,  ' '  To 
the  Golden  Gate,"  issued  by  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road:— "The  Eastern  traveller  coming  to  California's 
coast  and  failing  to  see  '  Del  Monte  '  has  indeed  missed 
not  everything,  but  a  goodly  part. " 


SANTA  CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA. 


In  area,  Santa  Cruz  county  is  one  of  the  smallest  in 
California,  but  in  resources,  productiveness  of  soil  and 
natural  attractions  it  might  be  called  the  largest  in  the 
State.  In  its  equable  climate  is  grown  almost  every- 
thing indigenous  to  the  north  temperate  zone. 

The  county  is  in  central  California,  eighty  miles  south 
of  San  Francisco;  it  has  a  coast  line  of  forty  miles,  and 
includes,  according  to  the  United  States  Government 
survey,  280,000  acres.  So  rich  is  it  that  there  are  not 
more  than  five  thousand  acres  of  waste  land  in  the  en- 
tire county.  South  of  this  is  the  Pajaro  Valley,  the 
most  fertile  spot  of  California,  called  '  ■  the  wonder  of 
the  Pacific." 

There  is  not  much  stock-raising  in  Santa  Cruz  county. 
The  mountains,  being  heavily  timbered,  are  not  adapt- 
ed to  grazing.  Nor  are  citrus  fruits  cultivated  to  any 
great  extent;  but  the  apples  of  Santa  Cruz  county 
are  superior  to  any  grown  in  the  State,  the  quality  of 
the  wine  is  unsurpassed  in  the  State,  and  the  remark- 
able richness  of  the  soil  renders  the  cultivation  of  pota- 
toes, beans,  hops,  sugar  beets,  etc.,  profitable  to  a  de- 
gree unknown  in  less  fertile  sections.  The  vegetable 
products  of  the  county  form  one  of  its  most  extensive 
industries.  E.  S.  Harrison,  a  trustworthy  authority 
in  California  history,  calls  Santa  Cruz  "a  vegetable 
wonderland. " 

Let  me  illustrate  the  natural  advantages  of  this  region 
by  a  comparison.     While  riding  on  the  Southern  Pacific 

241 


.242  SANTA   CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA. 

railway  over  the  Texas  plains,  a  month  ago,  the  travel- 
ling auditor  of  the  company,  who  was  on  our  train,  sur- 
prised me  by  stating  that  the  company  is  glad  to  lease 
its  lands  at  four  cents  an  acre  annually.  Land  within  a 
couple  of  miles  of  where  this  is  written  is  leased  to 
Chinamen  for  farming  at  fifty  dollars  an  acre  annually, 
and  they  realize  from  it  a  profit  per  acre  of  two  or  three 
hundred  dollars. 

The  City  of  Santa  Cruz,  the  principal  city  and  county 
seat  of  the  county,  lies  between  the  Pacific  ocean  and 
the  northern  side  of  Monter^  bay,  about  eighty  miles 
south  of  San  Francisco.  It  nestles  among  the  foot-hills 
of  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains,  and  its  outskirts  are 
bathed  by  the  sea.  The  city  proper  has  a  population 
of  six  thousand  five  hundred,  and  if  East  Santa  Cruz  is 
included,  the  population  is  about  nine  thousand.  The 
city  is  growing  rapidly.  New  business  houses  are 
constantly  going  up,  capital  is  coming  from  the  East, 
and  everywhere  are  evidences  of  •  a  steady,  healthy 
increase. 

Santa  Cruz  has  good  railroad  facilities.  Two  branches 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  run  here  direct.  They  are  called 
the  broad  gauge  and  the  narrow  gauge  roads.  The 
broad  gauge  is  an  important  line  running  through  Santa 
Clara  and  Pajaro  valleys,  passing  San  Jose  and  the 
larger  towns  between  San  Francisco  and  Monterey. 
The  narrow  guage  runs  from  San  Francisco  no  farther 
south  than  Santa  Cruz.  It  is  more  of  a  local  line  and 
stops  at  the  smaller  places — places,  however,  of  such 
great  interest  to  tourists  as  Big  Trees.  The  steamers 
of  the  Pacific  Steamship  Company  plying  between  San 
Pedro  (near  Los  Angeles),  and  San  Francisco  stop  here, 
regularly,  on  their  way  north  and  south. 

In  writing  from  Hotel  del  Monte  in  Monterey,  I  men- 
tioned some  large  oaks  and  pines  ;  there  are  as  big  and 
still  bigger  trees  here,  or  very  near  here,  at  a  place  ap- 
propriately named  Big  Trees.    It  is  a  ten  minute  ride 


SANTA   CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA.  24:j 

on  the  narrow  guage  road  of  the  Southern  Pacific,  or  an 
hour's  drive  by  carriage  from  Santa  Cruz.  You  need 
not  go  to  Yosemite,  Calaveras  or  Mariposa  to  see  giants 
of  the  forest ;  here  they  are,  a  grove  of  320  acres,  some 
of  the  trees  300  feet  high  and  60  feet  in  circumference. 
These  figures  are  quoted,  but  I  measured  a  few  speci- 
mens myself.  One  about  four  feet  from  the  ground 
was  52  feet  in  circumference.  The  interior  of  another, 
"General  Fremont,"  had  been  burned  out.  Four  per- 
sons beside  myself  stood  inside  of  it,  and  thirty-five 
more,  we  calculated,  could  have  found  room  in  com- 
fort. This  measured  six  feet  in  diameter  about  five  feet 
from  the  ground — inside  measurement — the  "  shell  "  of 
the  tree  being  probably  a  foot  thick.  There  are  dozens 
and  scores  and  groups  of  trees  in  this  wonderful  grove, 
nearly  as  large. 

The  trees  are  of  the  famous  California  Redwood 
species,  the  wood  hard  as  flint  and  very  heavy.  The 
largest  specimens  are  named  and  bear  tablets,  "  Daniel 
Webster,"  "  General  Grant,"  "  General  Sherman,"  "In- 
gersoll's  Cathedral,"  etc.  Under  the  shadow  of  the  last 
named,  the  honorable  gentleman  held  forth  one  day  to 
an  admiring  audience.  "Big  Trees"  is  owned  by  a 
wealthy  widow  of  San  Francisco,  Mrs.  Walsh. 

Powerful  and  proud  as  are  these  giants  of  the  forest, 
some  of  them  have  been  uprooted  by  nature's  convul- 
sions and  lie  humbly  and  horizontally  on  the  ground. 
I  noticed  that  a  few  of  these  were  charred.  The  keeper 
of  the  grounds  explained  that  year  after  year  fire  had 
been  tried,  but  the  hardy  giants  would  not  yield  to 
flame.  They  are  so  thick  and  hard  they  won't  bum  as 
they  lie.  "Then  why  not  cut  them  up,"  I  suggested. 
"  Oh  !"  was  the  answer,  "lumber  is  worth  nothing  here  ; 
it  is  so  plentiful. " 

They  have  done  a  little  "cutting, "  however.  In  ex- 
change for  a  dime  you  \vill  get  a  piece  of  red  wood 
quite  heavy  enough  for  your  satchel,  or  a  piece  of  the 


9U  SANTA   CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA. 

bark  much  too  clumsy  for  your  coat  pocket.  The  bark 
is  three  or  four  inches  thick. 

This  is  a  famous  wine  country.  We  visited  the  tun- 
nels of  the  "Santa  Cruz  Mountain  Wine  Company," 
whose  vineyards  are  visible  nine  miles  away  on  the 
hills.  The  tunnels  are  dug  out  of  the  soft,  sand-stone 
rock  and  are  dark  and  rather  cool.  That  is  to  say,  the 
air  seemed  cool  when  compared  with  the  atmosphere 
outside,  but  as  a  matter  of  truth,  which  is  often  stranger 
than  fiction,  the  thermometer  showed  the  temperature 
in  the  tunnels  to  be  52  degr^s,  and  it  remains  at  about 
that  figure  all  the  year  round.  There  are  three  such 
tunnels,  each  380  feet  long,  24  feet  wide,  and  18  feet 
high.  The  vineyards  of  the  company  include  two  hun- 
dred acres. 

In  these  deep,  cool  tunnels  the  company  has  stored  in 
great  vats  no  less  than  two  hundred  thousand  gallons  of 
wine.  Bottle  after  bottle  was  opened  for  our  party  and 
so  cheaply  was  it  held  that  the  glasses  were  freely 
washed  with  the  wincas  the  different  kinds  were  tasted 
— port,  sherries,  clarets  and  white  wines. 

The  claret  has  good  body,  and  if  you  add  a  little 
water  to  it,  as  the  French  treat  vin  ordinaire,  it  makes  a 
very  good  drink  for  a  thirsty  soul  at  the  dinner  table. 

California  Angelica  has  been  a  popular  wine  for 
twenty  odd  years:  the  Angelica  produced  in  Santa  Cruz 
is  sweet,  smooth,  oily  and  delicious. 

A  brand  of  Sauterne  so  pleased  my  palate  that  I  or- 
dered twenty  gallons  to  be  shipped  to  New  York.  But 
I'll  let  you  into  the  secret  of  this  seemingly  extravagant 
order  ;  the  price  is  only  one  dollar  per  gallon — and  not 
Jones,  but  I,  paid  the  freight.  In  ordering  this  wine  I 
was  guided  first,  by  my  own  taste — it  has  delicious  fla- 
vor; secondly,  I  felt  assured  that  it  was  absolutely  pure. 
The  grapes  are  here,  on  the  spot,  shfp  loads  of  them, 
in  the  season,  and  there's  no  incentive  for  adulteration. 

The  well-kept  roads  and  fine  drives  about  Santa  Cruz 


SANTA  CRUZ.  CALIFORNIA.  845 

are  not  its  least  attractive  feature.  One  of  them  you 
can  take  from  the  shore,  driving  over  a  bridge  of  the 
San  Lorenzo  river,  passing  among  other  places  the  twin 
lakes,  on  the  borders  of  which  are  the  summer  home 
and  settlement  of  the  Christian  Church.  You  keep  the 
mountains  in  view  all  the  way,  and  a  turn  here  or  there 
shows  you  the  city,  the  bay,  or  the  ocean. 

The  three-mile  cliff  drive,  passing  Phelan  Park,  takes 
you  immediately  above  the  rock-bound  shore  of  the 
Pacific,  where  you  see  giant  crags  upon  which  the  ever- 
lasting waves  have  had  their  effect.  Some  of  the  rocks 
stand  off  from  the  shore  twenty  and  fifty  feet,  and 
through  these  the  powerful  waves  have  worked  great 
holes,  through  which  the  waters  rush  with  a  tumultuous 
roar,  dashing  their  spray  far  above.  These  "natural 
bridges  "  Would  be  considered  a  rare  sight  if  they  were 
the  only  feature  of  this  scene,  and  would  attract  people 
from  a  distance,  but  where  there  is  so  much  to  admire 
and  astonish,  they  are  only  one  among  the  many  mar- 
vels that  here  make  an  embarrassment  of  pictorial 
riches. 

The  city  has  three  banks,  good  public  schools  and 
water-works  ;  it  is  sewered  to  the  ocean,  it  has  electric 
cars,  fine  public  buildings,  and  two  flourishing  news- 
papers, the  Sentinel  and  the  Surf.  Good  society  is  not 
lacking,  and  beautiful  homes  abound.  Major  McLaugh- 
lin's fine  Gothic  villa  cost  $70,000 ;  the  residence  of 
Mayor  Bowman  commands  beautiful  views  of  the  bay 
and  the  town  ;  the  home  of  William  Kerr,  two  miles 
out  of  the  city,  is  a  handsome  structure  in  the  Queen 
Anne  style,  having  two  wide  entrances  and  bay 
windows,  affording  extensive  views  of  the  valley 
and  bay.  Mrs.  P.  B.  Fagen's  house  on  Mission 
street,  one  of  the  principal  residential  streets,  at- 
tracts the  attention  of  all  passers-by.  Other  pretty 
homes  are  those  of  D.  K.  Abeel,  R.  Bernheim,  Mr. 
Glover  and  Mrs.  E,  J.  Green. 


346  SANTA   CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA. 

Mr.  J.  Philip  Smith,  a  New  York  capitalist,  who  has 
travelled  far  and  wide  and  who  passes  much  of  his  time 
in  Europe  and  New  York,  came  here  with  his  family 
four  years  ago,  bought  a  two-acre  site  upon  which  a  fine 
house  stood  and  this  he  enlarged  and  reconstructed, 
laying  out  the  grounds  in  a  tasteful  way,  making  it  one 
of  the  handsomest  residences  in  Santa  Cruz.  It  has  a 
high  and  enviable  position  near  the  Sea  Beach  Hotel. 

It  reminds  you  at  once  upon  entering  it  of  a  Parisian 
interior  and  on  closer  examination  you  are  not  surprised 
to  learn  that  many  of  the  thSngs  of  beauty  which  adorn 
the  rooms  had  a  French  origin.  The  Smiths  are  great 
travellers  and  in  their  journeyings  about  the  world  have 
"picked  up  "  any  number  of  art  works  and  curios  which 
now  find  an  appropriate  resting  place. 

One  of  the  finest  views  here,  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful of  its  kind  in  the  State  probably,  is  to  be  had  from 
Logan  Heights,  the  estate  of  Judge  J.  H.  Logan.  Judge 
Logan  is  president  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Co.  Bank  and  one 
of  the  most  esteemed  citizens  of  this  section.  The  house 
not  imposing  architecturally,  stands  on  a  mesa  or  pla- 
teau of  about  twenty  acres,  in  which  beautiful  roses  and 
other  choice  flowers  bloom  the  year  round.  From  this 
elevated  position  a  series  of  bird's-eye  views  are  spread 
out  before  you,  the  extent,  beauty  and  variety  of  which 
are  not  easily  described. 

At  this  point  you  are  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
Pacific  ocean.  Immediately  below,  in  the  foreground, 
is  the  whole  city  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  its  high  school,  its 
gardens,  reservoirs,  depot,  hotels,  and  its  church  spires. 
To  your  left,  eastward,  are  the  villages  Soquel  and 
Aptos,  famous  lumber  centres.  A  few  miles  further  off 
in  the  same  direction,  glistens  Monterey  bay,  backed 
by  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains. 

Southward,  beyond  the  city  at  your  feet,  winds  the 
bay  of  Monterey.  Look  twenty  miles  further  south, 
and,  in  this  clear  atmosphere,  you  see  the  sleepy  old 


SANTA  CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA.  247 

town  of  Monterey  with  the  mountains  as  a  background 
for  the  picture. 

To  your  right,  westward,  is  the  ocean  again — alto- 
gether, forming  a  number  of  diversified  and  beautiful 
pictures. 

There  are  a  number  of  good  hotels  at  Santa  Cruz. 
The  leading  house  is  the  Sea  Beach  Hotel,  of  which  Mr. 
John  T.  Sullivan  is  the  lessee.  He  has  furnished  it  in 
good  style  and  it  is  well  appointed. 

Viewed  either  from  the  heights  or  from  the  shore, 
above  which  it  stands  nearly  one  hundred  feet,  it  is  a 
picturesque  place,  with  beautifully  terraced  grounds, 
gracefully  sloping  to  the  beach  and  ornamented  by 
flowers  of  every  description.  Every  room  in  the  Sea 
Beach  has  hot  and  cold  running  water,  electric  lights 
and  call  bells.  The  parlor  is  on  the  main  floor,  in  the 
comer  round  tower  of  the  building,  and,  with  its  many 
windows,  is  uncommonly  pleasing.  Through  or  from 
these  windows  you  get  the  best  features  of  the  scenery 
hereabouts,  from  the  tasteful  flower  gardens  of  the  hotel 
grounds  to  Loma  Prieta  and  the  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance, or  to  Monterey,  beyond  the  bay  in  the  fore- 
ground. 

The  leading  commercial  hotel  is  the  Pacific  Ocean 
House,  located  on  the  principal  thoroughfare  in  the 
centre  of  the  city.  It  has  all  modern  improvements  as 
well  as  large,  pleasant  sample  rooms.  Mr.  John  T. 
Sullivan  is  the  proprietor  of  this  hotel  also,  which  is  all 
that  need  be  said  in  reference  to  the  excellence  of  its 
management.  Mr.  Sullivan  is  not  unknown  to  New 
York.  He  was  a  tried  friend  of  Horace  Greeley's  and 
a  trusted  officer  under  Hon.  Thomas  L.  James  in  the 
New  York  Post-office,  in  which  place  he  rose  after  faith- 
ful service  of  fifteen  years  to  be  superintendent  of  the 
newspaper  department.  Mr.  Sullivan  has  been  in  Santa 
Cruz  only  five  or  six  years.  I  saw  a  modest  little  two- 
story  building  in  which  he  started  here,  "keeping  board- 


»48  SANTA  CRUZ,  CALIFORNIA. 

ers,"  and  he  is  now  interested  in  the  two  leading  hotels 
of  the  town,  as  part  proprietor  of  one  and  full  proprietor 
of  the  other,  with  the  prospect  of  making  his  fortune. 
With  success  Mr.  Sullivan  has  made  many  staunch 
friends,  among  them  the  mayor  of  the  town,  judges, 
bank  presidents  and  other  leading  citizens. 

The  steamship  landing  is  nearer  the  Sea  Beach  Hotel 
than  it  is  to  any  other  house ;  the  broad  guage  station  is 
quite  convenient  to  the  hotel,  and  the  narrow  guage 
station  five  minutes  walk  around  the  comer.  Santa 
Cruz  is  attractive  in  winter,  jiut  in  summer  it  must  be 
delightful. 


NATURAL  BRIDGE,   SANTA  CRUZ. 


PASADENA. 


People  who  care  more  for  comfort  than  for  great 
"  style,"  who  prefer  a  quiet,  home-like,  family  house  to 
one  of  noise  and  bustle,  those  who  are  seeking  health, 
pure  air  and  out-door  life  with  grand  views  rather  than 
the  music,  dancing  and  entertainments  of  a  fashionable 
hotel  may  jot  down  as  a  memorandum  "The  Painter 
Hotel,  at  Pasadena,  Cal,"  thirty-five  minutes  by  train 
from  Los  Angeles  and  fifteen  minutes  by  "free  'bus" 
from  passenger  station. 

It  is  a  new  house,  was  built  in  '88;  it  accommodates 
seventy-five  boarders,  and  is  owned  and  kept  by  J.  H. 
Painter's  Sons.  The  house  is  airy,  the  bedrooms  are 
comfortably  (not  luxuriously)  furnished,  the  parlor  is 
pleasant,  the  class  of  guests  select,  the  table  is  well  pro- 
vided, and  at  once,  let  me  say,  ere  the  important  fact 
escapes  me,  the  rates  are  remarkably  low  for  the  nice 
appointments  and  good  fare  supplied — only  $2.50  per 
day  for  transient  guests,  and  from  $12.50  to  $17.50  per 
week  to  season  boarders,  for  people  come  to  stay  for  a 
month  or  so — some  spend  the  whole  winter  here.  The 
house  is  open  the  year  round,  it  being  pleasant  in  sum- 
mer as  well  as  in  winter.  It  is  a  mountainous  district, 
and  the  ocean,  from  which  come  soft  winds  in  summer, 
is  only  thirty  minutes'  distant  in  a  south  and  south- 
westerly direction. 

Yes,  and  here  are  two  more  facts — Pasadena  is  one 
thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  the  Painter  Hotel, 
which  is  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  centre  of  the 
town,  stands  on  the  highest  point  hereabouts. 

349 


250  PASADENA. 

The  grounds  comprised  in  the  property  include  ten 
acres,  upon  which  the  owners  grow  their  own  fruits  for 
the  table — peaches,  apricots,  raisins,  prunes,  etc. 

Do  you  want  to  visit  the  town  ?  Street  cars  pass  the 
door  of  the  Painter.  And  if  you  want  a  view  it  will 
"pay"  you  to  climb  up  to  the  roof  of  the  hotel,  where 
there  is  an  observatory.  Three  miles  off  is  the  Ray- 
mond Hotel,  plain  to  your  view  in  this  clear  atmosphere. 
On  one  side  is  the  San  Bernardino  range  of  mountains, 
on  the  other  the  Sierra  Madre  range.  You  may  see  San 
Jacinto,  ninety  miles  away,  jalso  Wilson's  Peak,  upon 
which  the  new  observatory,  with  its  powerful  lens,  is  to 
be  placed;  and  beautiful  San  Gabriel  valley  is  spread 
out  immediately  beneath  you,  a  feature  of  which,  at  this 
writing,  are  acres  of  large,  orange-hued  poppies,  so 
bright  that  you  could  almost  imagine  them  aflame, 
especially  if  the  wind  is  blowing,  thus  giving  vibration 
to  the  thin,  delicate  leaves. 

The  drives  are  a  most  delightful  feature: — to  the  city 
proper,  with  its  wide  avenues  of  beautiful  residences, 
to  San  Gabriel  mission,  and  to  "Lucky"  Baldwin's 
ranch,  a  pleasant  afternoon  drive. 

Those  who  are  planning  a  winter  or  spring  tour  will 
thank  me  for  suggesting  a  visit  to  the  Painter  House, 
but  if  people  demand  "style,"  if  they  would  dance  to 
orchestral  music;  if  they  demand  great  size  in  a  dining- 
room  and  grandeur  in  the  drawing-room,  and  they  are 
willing  to  pay  for  it,  all  these  are  also  obtainable  here, 
or  rather  at  East  Pasadena,  which  is  only  three  miles 
distant;  eight  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  And  the  price, 
$4.50  per  day,  $21  to  $28  per  week,  is  reasonable  con- 
sidering what  you  get  for  the  money. 

Reference  is  made  to  the  great  Raymond  Hotel, 
which  was  built  in  1 886,  where  they  have  a  bar,  as  well 
as  billiards  and  bowling;  elevator,  electric  lights,  a  re- 
ception-room, music-room,  grand  parlor,  and  a  dining- 
room   which    accommodates   three  hundred   persons. 


PASADENA.  251 

From  your  seat  at  table  you  see  "  Old  Baldy  "  looming 
above  the  clouds  eleven  thousand  feet  and  snow-cov- 
ered ten  months  out  of  the  twelve,  looking  like  a  great 
sugar-loaf  and  recalling  the  Jungfrau,  near  Interlaken, 
Switzerland. 

Like  the  dining-room  of  its  modest  neighbor,  the 
Painter  Hotel,  every  table  in  the  Raymond  is  decorated 
daily  with  fresh  flowers  plucked  from  the  hotel  grounds 
— this  is  "winter,"  mind  you.  The  grounds  of  the  Ray- 
mond cover  a  space  of  fifty-four  acres,  so  there  is  no 
lack  of  fruit  (oranges,  lemons,  etc.),  to  say  nothing  of 
the  roses,  blue  bells,  honeysuckle,  dandelions,  helio- 
tropes and  violets  which  may  be  picked  ad  libitum — if 
you  don't  regard  the  painted  signs. 

A  view  from  one  of  the  Raymond's  verandas  is  not 
much  unlike  that  from  the  front  steps  of  the  Grand 
Hotel  in  the  Catskills,  only  the  former  is  far  more  ex- 
tensive. 

The  proprietor  of  the  Raymond  is  W.  Raymond,  of 
Raymond's  Vacation  Excursions,  Boston,  and  the  man- 
ager is  M.  C.  Wentworth  of  Wentworth  Hall,  in  the 
White  Mountains.  The  post-oflfice  address  is  East  Pasa- 
dena, Cal. 

Orange  Grove  avenue  and  Marengo  avenue  and  the 
paths  in  the  grounds  leading  to  the  houses  are  lined 
with  luxurious  fan  palm  trees,  interspersed  with  great 
cacti  and  not  a  few  century  plants,  which  it  is  proven 
here  bloom  much  oftener  than  once  in  a  hundred  years. 
The  calla  lily,  that  delicate  plant  which  is  so  tenderly 
cared  for  in  the  East  that  the  flower  is  wrapped  in  cot- 
ton wool,  here  g^ows  in  such  profusion  that  it  is  used 
for  hedges.  You  will  see  fields  of  "  callas  "  at  Pasa- 
dena, raised  for  shipment  to  large  cities.  The  whole  of 
Pasadena  is  like  one  immense  garden,  a  garden  city 
indeed. 

Pas.\dena  Cottages. — You  would  scarcely  credit  it, 
so  I  won't  tell  you,  that  some  of  the  "  cottages  "  in  this 


358  PASADENA. 

new  place  are  as  large  and  elaborate  as  those  on  the 
New  Jersey  coast,  between  Seabright  and  Elberon,  and 
some  of  them  would  not  look  out  of  place  alongside  of 
the  grand  Newport  "  cottages. " 

Mr.  Kernaghan,  editor  of  the  Pasadena  Star,  has  a 
fine  home  here.  One  of  the  prettiest  places  belongs  to 
and  is  occupied  by  Mrs.  Kimball,  the  widowed  daughter 
of  Rufus  Hatch  of  New  York. 

Charles  Frederick  Holder,  formerly  of  New  York, 
came  out  here  six  years  ago  for  his  health,  and  having 
obtained  it  has  made  this  hi^home.  He  has  a  cozy  cot- 
tage on  Orange  Grove  avenue  in  which  is  his  study, 
where  you  may  find  him  at  his  ease,  wearing  a  short 
black  velvet  coat  or  smoking  jacket. 

Mr.  Holder  is  a  journalist  and  litterateur,  a  frequent 
contributor  to  current  magazines  and  leading  news- 
papers. He  has  published  two  or  three  brochures  on 
Pasadena.  One  of  his  contributions  concerning  this 
section  was  an  illustrated  article  which  appeared  in 
Harpers  Weekly.  It  was  entitled  "  The  Rose  Tourna- 
ment," and  described  a  beautiful  ceremony  which  takes 
place  here  annually,  on  New  Year's  day.  Mr.  Holder's 
style  is  finished  and  scholarly  and  his  language  choice, 
with  no  waste  of  words.  Being  a  man  of  cultivated 
taste,  with  a  rare  poetic  fancy,  he  is  at  home  here,  when 
treating  of  this  lovely  country  with  its  wealth  of  fruits 
and  flowers. 

Among  others  who  have  built  houses  and  who  occupy 
country  seats  at  Pasadena  is  Governor  Markham,  of  Cal- 
ifornia. A  Mr.  Nelmes  has  a  lovely  ten-acre  place,  and 
with  it  a  generous  heart.  A  sign  placed  conspicuously 
outside  his  gates  reads  as  follows  :  ' '  All  are  welcome 
to  drive  through  these  private  grounds  and  groves. 
Eastern  tourists  are  each  invited  to  pluck  one  orange. " 

Some  people  talk  of  the  winter  months  in  California 
as  "the  rainy  season."  This  may  be  an  old  story,  told 
of  what  was  the  case  years  ago.  It  certainly  is  not 
true  to-day.     Examining  the  records,  I  find  that  from 


PASADENA.  2S8 

January  5  to  February  i  of  this  year  there  was  no  rain  at 
all  in  Pasadena,  and  in  all  of  that  time  there  were  but 
two  cloudy  days — January  23  and  January  28. 

I  have  been  in  Southern  California  now  for  about  three 
weeks  and  have  seen  it  rain  only  on  two  days  and  one 
night — two  days  in  Los  Angeles  and  one  night,  for  one 
hour,  at  Coronado  Beach. 

I  don't  advise  you  to  throw  away  your  umbrella,  as 
did  a  tourist  from  Colorado  when  coming  here,  but  my 
experience  would  show  that  there  is  very  little  use  for 
such  an  article  in  Southern  California,  even  in  what  used 
to  be  called  "  the  rainy  season." 


LOS  ANGELES. 


If  you  are  going  from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego,  or 
vice  versa,  don't  go  by  boat  unless  you  have  a  great  af- 
fection for  the  sea.  First,  you  must  change  at  San 
Pedro,  from  cars  to  boat ;  second,  the  waterway  occu- 
pies much  more  time ;  but  what  is  most  important,  if 
you  go  by  rail,  over  the  Sante  Fe  route,  you  get  magni- 
ficent and  diversified  views  of  the  ocean,  close  views  of 
foot  hills  and  distant  views  of  snow-capped  mountains. 
You  pass  through  a  fertile  country,  see  picturesque  cot- 
tages, large  sheep  and  cattle  ranches,  and  great  rifts  in 
the  mountains  that  make  you  smile  when  you  think  of 
"gaps"  in  the  east,  which  are  so  widely  advertised. 
The  train  skirts  the  edge  of  the  sea  for  scores  of  miles 
and  recalls  similar  scenic  features  of  land  and  water 
which  you  admire  in  travelling  from  Aberdeen  to  Bal- 
later  over  the  "Great  North  of  Scotland  Railway,"  a 
pretty  little  road  with  a  big  sounding  name.  If  you 
should  have  to  stop  on  a  switch,  or  for  a  "  heated  jour- 
nal," for  five  or  ten  minutes,  you  can  step  off  the  car 
platform  and  in  a  few  minutes  you  can  gather  a  large 
bouquet  of  sweet,  wild  flowers,  among  them  fragrant 
"mignonette  "  as  they  call  it  here.  Southern  California 
might  well  be  named  the  land  of  flowers,  and  this  branch 
of  the  Sante  Fe  is  entitled  to  be  called  by  that  much 
abused  term,  picturesque. 

Florida  Oranges  "Beaten."  —  I  wrote  last  season 
about  some  Florida  oranges  which  were  shown  to  me  at 
the  Windsor  Hotel,  Jacksonville.  The  largest  of  them, 
if  I  remember  aright,  measured  thirteen  inches  in  cir- 

254 


LOS  ANGELES.  265 

ctimference  and  weighed  twenty-three  otinces.  I  asked, 
"  who  can  beat  these  ? "  They  are  "beaten."  This  morn- 
ing I  weighed  an  orange  in  Los  Angeles  which  turned 
the  beam  at  thirty-three  ounces  and  which  measured 
nineteen  and  one-quarter  inches.  This  particular  orange 
was  light  for  its  size,  because  it  was  not  quite  ripe  nor 
"full "  when  picked.  It  came  from  George  Bunce's  grove 
(pray  do  not  print  this  "grave")  at  Rivera,  a  smalltown 
nine  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  The  g^ove  was  only  set 
out  in  1888.  All  the  oranges  on  the  tree  from  which  this 
one  was  picked  were  as  large  and  as  heavy  as  the  one 
described,  but  there  were  only  three  of  them. 

All  the  ticket  brokers'  offices,  all  the  fruit  stores,  segar 
shops  and  all  the  shops  of  small  traders  and  of  places 
patronized  by  men  have  their  doors  and  windows  thrown 
open  during  business  hours.  No  "protection  "  from  the 
weather  is  needed.  It  is  never  cold  enough  for  closed 
doors  or  windows  in  the  daytime.  Nor  are  some  of  these 
places  of  business  closed  even  at  night  except  by  strong 
iron-wire  netting  covering  the  fronts  of  the  stores.  This 
open  feature  strikes  a  visitor  as  very  strange  at  first,  but 
one  soon  becomes  accustomed  to  it.  All  through  the 
winter  open  street  cars  are  used. 

Four  years  ago,  when  the  Los  Angeles  boom  was  at 
its  height,  the  foundation  was  laid  near  Main  street  for 
what  was  intended  to  be  the  largest  hotel  in  the  United 
States.  There  it  stood  and  there  it  stands  to-day  (the 
foundation),  the  bricks  appearing  just  one  foot  above  the 
ground  level.  These  bricks  enclose  a  space  of  two 
acres.  Pullman,  of  sleeping-car  fame,  was  one  of  those 
interested,  and  he  says  that  the  idea  has  not  been  en- 
tirely abandoned.  The  idea  may  yet  exist  but  the  open 
lots  and  the  brick  foundation  look  very  lonesome. 
Meanwhile  Mr.  O.  T.  Johnson  erected  a  very  handsome 
hotel,  The  Westminster,  on  the  comer  of  Main  and 
Fourth  streets,  which  will  accommodate  two  hundred 
jand  fifty  guests.     The  site  of  the  Westminster  is  choice; 


2S6  LOS  ANGELES. 

the  house  contains  all  the  modern  improvements;  it  is 
well  furnished  and  well  patronized. 

As  I  write,  in  my  bedroom  of  the  Westminster  Hotel, 
looking  north  I  can  see,  without  rising  from  my  seat, 
great  high  mountains  covered  with  snow.  They  pre- 
sent a  most  beautiful  picture  in  this  clear  atmosphere, 
with  the  sun  shining  upon  them. 

That  "cranky  critic,"  as  the  New  York  Hotel  Gazette 
calls  Max  O'Rell,  would  be  suited  at  the  Westminster 
Hotel.  O'Rell  complains  because  in  American  hotels 
guests  have  regular  seats;  t^at  each  person  upon  enter- 
ing the  dining-room  is  not  allowed  to  sit  just  where  he 
pleases.  The  contrary  is  the  rule  in  the  hotel  mentioned. 
A  notice  is  prominently  posted  near  the  elevator  which 
reads:  "Positively  no  seats  reserved  in  the  dining- 
room."  The  waiters  are  young,  intelligent  American 
girls  of  a  good  class,  some  from  New  York  and  some 
from  Nebraska,  all  uniformed  in  white.  They  look  neat 
and  clean,  are  alert  to  take  an  order  and  quick  in  serv- 
ing it. 

Strawberry  short-cake  was  part  of  the  dessert  at  to- 
day's luncheon  in  the  Hotel  Westminster.  Fresh-picked 
strawberries  are  served  every  morning  for  breakfast. 
Not  a  dozen  or  two  small,  hard  berries,  such  as  I  have 
seen  served  for  a  "portion"  at  hotel  tables  in  Florida 
during  February,  but  a  saucerful  for  each  guest  of  large, 
ripe  berries  that  have  a  delicious  flavor.  Strawberry 
ice-cream  was  on  the  dinner  menu — the  cream  made, 
not  from  "strawberry  flavoring,"  but  of  the  honest 
fruit.  Fresh  peas  and  Lima  beans  figure  on  the  bill, 
also  oranges  in  profusion,  picked  from  the  groves 
hard  by. 

All  the  way  between  New  Orleans,  La.,  and  Los 
Angeles,  Cal. ,  on  the  Southern  Pacific  railroad,  you  pay 
five  to  ten  cents  each  for  oranges  ;  as  soon  as  you  reach 
Los  Angeles,  boys  with  baskets  of  the  golden  fruit 
swarm  about  the  cars  crying  out,  ' '  Oranges,  three  for  a 


LOS  ANGELES. 


257 


nickel,  six  for  a  dime."  If  you  have  a  little  patience 
you  will  hear,  "  Oranges,  eight  for  a  dime,"  and  if  you 
wait  till  the  train  is  about  to  start  you  can  get  ten  for  a 
dime.  Possibly  after  you  are  out  of  hearing  they  are 
sold  at  ten  cents  a  dozen. 


THE    CALIFORNIA,"    IN    SAN 
FRANCISCO. 


California  being  one  of  the  largest  of  these  United 
States,  the  Californians  thought  that  their  chief  city 
should  have  large  hotels,  so  they  built  in  San  Francisco 
the  Baldwin  House,  the  Lick  House,  the  Occidental  and 
larger  than  any  of  these,  )he  Palace  Hotel,  "larger 
than  any  hotel  in  existence,"  it  is  claimed.  Whether 
this  claim  is  well  founded  or  not,  the  Palace  is  large 
enough  to  suit  the  most  extravagant  American  ideas. 
It  occupies  three  acres  of  ground.  It  has  seven  hun- 
dred and  fifty-five  bedrooms;  number  of  rooms  all  told, 
ten  hundred  and  fifteen. 

But  with  the  growth  of  the  State  and  the  growth  of 
culture  and  good  taste,  Californians  and  tourists  from 
other  States  demanded  something  above  and  beyond 
mere  size;*  and  so  two  years  ago  was  erected  "The 
California."  There  are  several  "  California  Hotels  "  in 
San  Francisco,  in  fact,  an  old  house  directly  opposite 
the  California  now  calls  itself  "  The  New  California," 
probably  because  the  name  is  new.  So  many  houses 
with  names  near  alike  give  trouble  to  the  Post-office 
people,  but  the  title  of  the  house  of  which  I  write  is 
simply  "  The  California. " 

It  is  in  a  central  and  accessible  part  of  the  city — in 
Bush  street,  just  off  Kearney  street,  which  runs  nearly 
parallel  with  Market,  being  not  far  from  the  Chronicle 
building,  which  with  its  great  clock  tower  running  up 
hundreds  of  feet  in  the  air,  serves  as  a  finger  or  sign- 
post from  many  parts  of  the  city. 

The  front  is  of  cedar-colored  sandstone,  and  with  its 
modern,  low-arched  entrances  and  high,  round  towers, 

258 


THE   CALIFORNIA.  '     259 

is  uncommonly  pleasing  to  the  eye.  There  are  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  rooms  in  the  house,  and  it  is  nine  stories 
high,  the  higher  floors  being  most  desirable.  The  light 
is  better  as  you  ascend,  and  the  views  from  the  win- 
dows across  the  bay  and  the  Golden  Gate  are  a  con- 
stant delight.  From  my  bedroom  window  I  can  plainly 
see  the  graceful  movements  of  the  white  squadron, 
which,  with  the  green  hills  in  the  far  distance  make  a 
magnificent  picture.  The  California  was  erected  by 
"an  estate,"  and  the  estate  considered  not  the  expense. 
They  started  out  with  the  idea  to  build  a  hotel  as  near 
perfection  as  possible,*and  they  succeeded. 

Every  known  precaution  is  taken  against  fire.  It  was 
the  intention  from  the  first  to  build  a  house  as  proof 
against  fire  as  men,  money  and  materials  could  make  it. 
Scientists  were  consulted  as  to  sanitation  and  plumb- 
ing, and  to  these  points  special  thought  and  attention 
were  given,  Such  luxurious  fittings  in  marble  and  silver 
plate  I  have  never  seen  surpassed,  if  equalled;  not  even 
in  my  recent  ten-thousand-mile  tour  through  the  South 
and  West,  and  I  have  visited  hotels  that  cost  all  the 
way  from  one  to  three  millions  of  dollars. 

Instead  of  marble  and  brass,  which  are  used  so  freely 
in  large  American  hotels,  rare  and  beautiful  woods  pre- 
vail in  decorating  the  interior  of  the  new  house.  The 
ground  floor  is  finished  in  quartered  oak,  the  second 
in  bird's-eye  maple,  the  third  and  fourth  in  sycamore, 
the  fifth  and  sixth  in  red  birch,  and  the  seventh,  eighth 
and  ninth  in  oak.  The  wood  was  cut,  carved  and  pol- 
ished especially  for  the  building,  and  is  of  the  most  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  grain. 

Max  O'Rell  would  be  pleased.  Printed  rules  are  not 
posted  on  all  the  bedroom  doors  :  it  would  be  an  act  of 
vandalism  to  thrust  a  nail  into  hard  wood  of  such  high 
polish  and  beautiful  grain.  The  furniture  and  carpets 
harmonize  in  colors  and  are  very  rich :  there  seems  to 
have  been  no  thought  of  economy.     The  bedrooms  are 


260    •  THE   CALIFORNIA. 

furnished  as  you  would  furnish  your  own  apartment, 
provided  you  had  a  large  bank  account.  They  only 
lack  pictures,  mantel  ornaments  and  such  dainty  etce- 
teras, as  you  find,  for  instance,  in  the  bedrooms  of 
Long's  Hotel  in  London,  to  give  them  a  finished,  home- 
like and  elegant  air. 

Some  idea  as  to  the  excent  to  which  this  wood  decora- 
tion is  carried,  may  be  gained  when  it  is  told  that  the 
wood  used  to  decorate  the  parlor  and  music-room  cost 
six  thousand  dollars,  and  yet  they  are  small  apartments 
when  compared,  say,  with  tftose  of  the  Windsor  Hotel. 
New  York.  • 

The  music-room  adjoins  the  parlor,  and  is  only  sep- 
arated from  it  by  a  pair  of  portieres.  It  is  circular, 
with  a  frescoed  dome.  It  is  only  twenty-four  feet  in  di- 
ameter ;  but  a  veritable  bijou  is  this  music-room.  It 
has  tables  and  a  cabinet  of  onyx,  pieces  of  statuary  and 
bronze,  two  piano  lamps  and  a  pedestal  upon  which 
stands  a  vase  decorated  with  scenes  painted  by  a  French 
artist.  The  vase  itself  is  three  feet  high.  There  are 
two  semi-circular  upholstered  recesses  in  this  room  cur- 
tained in  front.  Occasionally  these  recesses  are  put  to  a 
very  good  use.  I  have  seen  young  couples,  a  modern 
Claude  and  Pauline,  engaged  in  very  close  conversation 
behind  the  curtains,  whispering  "  soft  nothings  "  to  each 
other.  "  Soft "  without  doubt  were  the  words  spoken, 
and,  so  far  as  I  heard,  they  amounted  to  nothing. 

In  the  central  front  wall  of  this  room  there  is  a  win- 
dow, and  pendant  in  this  window  is  a  colored  lamp  in 
which  electric  light  is  continually  burning.  There  are 
similar  lamps  hanging  in  each  of  the  cozy  recesses — the 
scene,  with  its  Moorish  surroundings,  reminding  you  of 
an  Oriental  synagogue,  in  which  there  is  a  similar  lamp, 
and  in  which,  according  to  Jewish  custom  in  public 
places  of  worship,  the  light  is  never  allowed  to  go  out. 
Of  electric  lamps,  there  are  twenty-five  hundred  in  the 
house. 


THE   CALIFORNIA,  281 

There  is  a  ladies'  waiting-room  which  is  strictly  re- 
served for  ladies  ;  there  is  a  ladies'  billiard-room,  as 
well  as  one  for  gentlemen  ;  there  is  a  banqueting-room 
for  public  dinners  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  at  the 
bottom  of  the  house  there  are  cellars  which  contain  a 
stock  of  choice  wines  valued  at  twenty  thousand  dol- 
lars. 

The  European  plan  is  gaining  in  popularity  in  this 
country.  When  you  proceed  to  write  your  name  on 
the  register  at  the  Palace  Hotel  the  clerk  asks,  "Euro- 
pean or  American  plan  ? "  At  the  California  no  such 
question  is  propounded ;  it  is  kept  entirely  on  the 
European  plan. 

But  they  have  a  restaurant  which  is  a  feature,  if  not 
the  feature  of  the  house.  It  measures  1 20  x  30  feet,  it 
has  tiled  floor,  mirrored  walls,  beautifull}'  decorated 
ceilings  and  countless  electric  lamps.  During  the  din- 
ner hour  a  band,  stationed  in  a  half-hidden  gallery  at 
the  end  of  the  restaurant,  performs  music  that  is  prop- 
erly called  pleasing — light  selections  which  suggest 
good  cheer,  and  which  no  doubt  aid  digestion.  The 
restaurant  is  entered  from  the  street  as  well  as  from  the 
interior,  and  such  is  its  popularity  that  it  is  patronized 
by  many  people  who  are  not  otherwise  guests  of  the 
house. 

It  is  equal  in  style  of  service  to  any  cafe  I  know  of — 
to  the  Cafe  Savarin  or  the  Brunswick  in  New  York  ;  in 
fact,  the  manager,  A.  F.  Kinzler,  is  a  son  of  Francis 
Kinzler  of  the  Brunswick. 

The  question  of  moustached  waiters  was  easily  set- 
tled at  the  California.  They  are  skilled  and  experienced 
French  and  Swiss  waiters,  and  there  was  no  demur  to 
the  order,  shave  the  upper  lip. 


SALT   LAKE  CITY. 


On  the  last  Sunday  of  September  1890, 1  was  one  among 
the  five  thousand  people  wh|  enjoyed  the  masterly  elo- 
quence of  Spurgeon  at  his  Tabernacle  in  London  ;  to- 
day, Monday,  I  was  in  the  Mormon  Tabernacle,  where  a 
conference  was  being  held,  and  in  which  were  gathered 
as  many  people  as  the  great  building  would  hold, — 
seated  and  standing,  twelve  thousand. 

Several  Mormon  elders  held  forth,  but  what  they  said 
did  not  particularly  interest  me.  It  was,  for  the  most 
part,  a  defense  of  their  form  of  "religion,"  and  they 
claimed  they  had  a  right,  in  this  free  country,  to  teach 
and  practice  their  peculiar  doctrine. 

The  acoustic  properties  of  this  great  edifice  are  excel- 
lent ;  I  tested  them  in  different  parts  of  the  house,  and 
heard  almost  every  word  that  was  said  by  the  several 
speakers.  Each  spoke  but  for  a  short  time,  ten  or  fif- 
teen minutes. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  Monday's  "session"  to 
my  mind  was  the  musical  part,  a  chorus  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  male  and  female  voices  singing  to  the  rich  and 
powerful  tones  of  what  is  claimed  to  be  the  largest  organ 
but  one  in  the  world. 

,A  strange  feature  of  the  assemblage  was  the  gfreat 
number  of  young  children  and  babes  in  arms  ;  the  crowd 
of  baby  carriages  in  the  halls  and  entrances  being  very 
noticeable. 

The  exterior  of  the  Tabernacle,  from  its  oval  shape, 
is  often  likened  to  half  an  egg  bisected  lengthwise ; 

S63 


SALT  LAKE  CITY.  268 

to  me  it  looks  like  a  tortoise,  with  its  low  curved 
roof  and  its  remarkably  short  pillars,  only  a  few  feet 
apart. 

But  it  is  a  mammoth  tortoise,  250  x  150  feet,  with  not  a 
column  nor  a  pillar  to  obstruct  the  view — the  largest  span 
of  unsupported  wooden  roof  in  the  world. 

The  Temple  in  Salt  Lake  City,  the  comer-stone  of 
which  was  laid  on  the  twelfth  of  April,  1853,  is,  like 
the  municipal  buildings  in  Philadelphia,  the  City  Hall 
in  San  Francisco  and  the  Cathedral  in  Cologne,  still 
unfinished,  although  $3,500,000  has  been  expended  in 
its  construction  so  far.  The  Temple's  dimensions  are 
200  X  100  feet. 

It  is  built  entirely  of  granite.  The  towers  are  beau- 
tiful. When  completed  they  will  be  200  feet  high. 
A  marble  slab  12x3  feet  is  inserted  in  the  centre 
tower.  Upon  that  slab  appears  this  inscription  in  gold 
letters: 

"  Holiness  to  the  Lord,  the  house  of  the  Lord.  Built 
by  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ,  of  latter-day  saints. 
Commenced  April  6,  1853.  Completed" — space  is  left 
under  the  word  "completed"  in  which  to  insert  the 
date,  but  that  space  may  not  be  filled  during  the  next 
quarter  of  a  century. 

The  first  blocks  of  granite  for  the  building  were 
hauled  from  the  quarries,  a  distance  of  twenty  miles, 
by  oxen,  but  for  many  years  past  the  granite  has  been 
brought  to  the  city  by  a  railroad  planned  originally  by 
Mormons. 

Salt  Lake,  on  account  of  its  unpaved  streets,  must  be 
miserable  as  a  place  of  residence.  In  wet  weather  the 
mud  in  the  streets  is  from  six  inches  to  two  feet  deep, 
and  in  dry  weather  the  dust  is  intolerable.  It  is  probably 
not  quite  so  bad  in  these  respects  as  Key  West,  Florida, 
but  it  is  always  disagreeable  enough.  Yet  the  city  is 
well  lajd  out ;  all  the  streets  are  over  one  hundred  feet 
wide  ;  there  is  a  good  system  of  electric  street-cars,  and 


264  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 

there  are  many  fine  granite  and  brick  business  blocks. 
Salt  Lake  has  an  evident  air  of  prosperity.  Its  popula- 
tion has  more  than  doubled  in  the  past  ten  years.  In 
1880  it  was  20,000  ;  in  1890  45,000. 

Brigham  street,  the  Fifth  avenue  of  Salt  Lake,  con- 
tains not  a  few  private  residences  of  which  any  city 
might  be  proud. 

The  leading  hotel  is  "The  Templeton,"  owned  by  a 
company  of  which  D.  C.  Young  is  president.  The  man- 
ager of  the  hotel  is  Alonzo  Young.  The  president  and 
the  manager  are  both  sons  o^  Brigham  Young,  but  are 
half  brothers  only.  Brighani  sleeps  with  a  couple  of 
his  wives  in  a  cemetery  a  few  hundred  feet  from  the 
hotel. 

The  Templeton  is  new  and  substantial,  but  it  was  not 
erected  for  a  hotel,  and  it  lacks  some  conveniences  which 
you  expect  to  find.  It  is  better  adapted  for  an  office 
building,  which  was  its  original  purpose. 

The  dining-room  is  on  the  top  floor,  as  is  the  dining- 
room  of  the  Auditorium  in  Chicago,  and  the  Vendome 
in  New  York,  and  as  is  the  kitchen  of  the  Windsor  Hotel 
in  London. 

From  this  room  in  the  Templeton,  if  you  secure  a 
choice  seat,  you  get  most  magnificent  views.  You  are 
surrounded  by  snow-covered  mountains,  and  to  the  west 
you  see  the  principal  buildings  of  the  city — the  Mormon 
Tabernacle,  the  Temple  and  the  Assembly  Hall,  all  en- 
closed and  fenced  within  a  ten-acre  lot. 

We  were  unfortunate  in  the  time  of  our  visit  to  Salt 
Lake.  The  city  was  crowded  on  account  of  the  Mormon 
conference  and  all  the  hotels  were  full.  At  the  Temple- 
ton they  had  an  insufficient  number  of  waiters  and  they 
served  saucers  of  ice  cream  on  warm  plates. 

I  had  occasion  to  look  at  the  city  directory  of  Salt 
Lake  and  in  turning  over  the  leaves  I  noticed  that  there 
are  living  no  less  than  nine  widows  of  the  lamented 
apostle  of  Mormonism,  Brigham  Young. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


Saratoga  is  lavishly  endowed  by  nature  with  all  the  at- 
tributes of  a  popular  resort.  Situated  at  a  high  altitude, 
among  the  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks,  its  climate  is  de- 
lightful, the  air  pure,  dry,  and  bracing,  the  evening  deli- 
ciously  cdol,  even  in  the  dog-days.  A  beautiful,  rolling 
country,  charmingly  diversified  by  hills,  valleys,  and  streams, 
stretches  for  miles  on  every  side,  affording  delightful  walks 
and  drives  ;  its  mineral  springs  possess  wonderful  curative 
powers.  A  prominent  physician  once  told  me  that  he  se- 
cured more  real  substantial  benefit  from  one  week  in  Sara- 
toga than  from  a  month's  stay  at  any  other  resort,  and  there 
are  hundreds  of  others  ready  to  endorse  this  opinion. 

It  has  been  said  that  nature  is  responsible  for  only  one- 
half  the  beauties  of  Saratoga,  the  rest  being  due  to  man's 
agency  ;  and  this  is  undoubtedly  true.  Art  has  taken  hold 
of  nature's  raw  material  and  transformed  it  into  a  veritable 
paradise.  Its  boulevards  and  parks  are  the  delight  of  all 
visitors  ;  its  hotels  rank  among  the  largest  and  best  in  the 
world.  Saratoga  has  become  within  a  few  years  the  great 
summer  capital  of  America.  It  is  the  centre  each  season  of 
the  highest  social,  educational,  and  political  gatherings. 
The  broad  piazzas  of  its  vast  hotels  present  a  panorama  of 
the  best  and  most  varied  types  of  our  leisurely  classes,  re- 
inforced by  thousands  of  the  affluent  citizens  of  other  lands. 
The  season  reaches  its  height  during  the  race  meeting, 
which  usually  opens  the  latter  part  of  July,  and  continues 
through  August.  During^  that  time  the  capacity  of  the  ho- 
tels is  taxed  to  the  utmost,  and  the  streets  and  avenues  are 
filled  with  gay  throngs  of  pedestrians,  and  an  apparently 

265 


266  SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 

endless  procession  of  handsome  equipages,  presenting  a 
brilliant  spectacle. 

But  Saratoga  is  not  given  up  altogether  to  people  of  fash- 
ion. It  is  also  the  resort  of  a  very  large  number  of  people 
in  moderate  circumstances,  and  for  them  it  offers  a  wide 
range  of  accommodations.  Boarders  are  received  in  scores 
of  private  families  at  reasonable  prices,  and  it  is  not  at  all 
necessary  to  go  to  a  hotel,  unless  you  prefer  hotel  life.  Ex- 
cellent accommodations  are  obtainable  at  from  seven  to 
twelve  dollars  a  week.  Saratoga  also  enjoys  the  advantage 
of  an  unsurpassed  railroad  serwce.  During  the  season  the 
New  York  Central  runs  nine  fast  trains  at  convenient  hours, 
daily,  each  way,  between  Saratoga  and  New  York,  and  every 
Saturday  afternoon  a  special  limited  train  takes  visitors  to 
Saratoga  to  spend  Sunday,  returning  to  New  York  at  an  early 
hour  Monday  morning.  All  these  trains  are  run  on  a  fast 
schedule,  and  they  are  equipped  with  Wagner  drawing-room, 
buffet,  and  smoking  cars  of  the  latest  and  most  luxurious 
pattern.  Saratoga  is  also  reached  promptly  and  conveni- 
ently from  the  West  by  the  same  railroad  line  (New  York 
Central)  with  its  many  daily  fast  express  trains,  via  Buffalo, 
Niagara  Falls,  and  Rochester,  by  direct  connections  at 
Schenectady  and  Albany. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  new  attractions  in  the  many 
new  places  of  resort,  Saratoga  Springs,  without  "  booming  " 
by  the  railway  people,  without  large  advertising  or  special 
effort  by  the  hotel-keepers,  holds  its  own  not  only  as  "  the 
Queen  of  American  Spas,"  but  undoubtedly  as  the  most  pop- 
ular sjummer  resort  in  America,  as  it  has  been  for  a  century, 
more  or  less. 

As  to  the  famous  hotels  of  Saratoga,  it  may  be  of  interest 
to  say  that  the  "  Union,"  as  it  was  then  called,  was  opened 
in  the  year  1800,  "Congress  Hall"  in  1812,  the  first 
"  States  "  in  1824. 

The  old  "  States"  was  built  and  kept  by  Judge  Marvin, 
who  died  in  1852.  Let  me  hasten  to  say  that  I  had  not  the 
honor  of  his  personal  acquaintance,  but    I   have   met  his 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS.  267 

brother,  the  Hon.  James  M.  Marvin,  who  was  his  partner 
and  who  still  owns  an  interest  in  the  property.  He  has 
reached  the  ripe  age  of  eighty-three,  and  is  still  hale  and 
hearty. 

Here  is  some  more  history,  ancient,  if  not  interesting. 
The  old  house  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1865,  the  present 
large  and  fine  structure  was  built  in  1873  and  opened  in  the 
following  year.  The  firm  of  Ainsworth,  Tompkins  &  Perry 
built  this  house,  and  they  kept  it.  Ainsworth  is  dead  ;  Tomp- 
kins and  Perry  are  very  much  alive,  the  firm  of  proprietors 
to-day  being  Tompkins,  Gage  &  Perry — Hiram  Tompkins, 
William  B.  Gage,  and  Dr.  J.  L.  Perry.  And  here  are  a 
couple  of  personal  items — Mr.  Gage,  of  the  present  firm, 
married  a  daughter  of  the  Hon.  James  M.  Marvin,  and  Dr. 
Perry,  aforesaid,  wedded  a  daughter  of  Judge  Marvin,  so  the 
"  proprietorship,"  as  it  is  called,  and  the  ownership  also,  if 
not  somewhat  mixed,  are  both  in  the  family.  The  father  of 
the  present  Dr.  Perry  was  a  physician  before  him,  practis- 
ing in  what  was  then  the  village  of  Saratoga. 

I  have  for  years  called  "  the  States"  "  the  model  hotel  of 
the  world,"  and  this  opinion  is  shared  by  many  experienced 
hotel  men,  among  them  no  less  a  celebrity  in  the  business 
than  James  H.  Breslin. 

There  are  many  works  of  art  in  the  broad  halls,  in  the 
magnificent  writing-room  where  men  congregate,  and  in  the 
cosey  sitting-rooms  set  apart  more  especially  for  the  softer 
sex.     The  collection  is  large  and  valuable. 

American  hotels  may  be  methodical,  but  their  methods  as 
a  rule  are  superior  to  those  of  the  European  houses.  In  the 
elevator  I  was  ascending  late,  one  night,  and  I  complained 
of  the  slow  rate  at  which  the  car  was  rising.  "  Its  pace,"  I 
remarked  to  the  man  in  the  lift,  "  reminds  me  of  the  lift  at 
Charing  Cross  Hotel,"  and  I  got  this  explanation :  "  After 
half-past  ten  at  night,  sir,  our  orders  are  to  go  at  half-speed; 
full  speed  might  disturb  the  early  sleepers."  This  of  itself 
gives  some  idea  of  the  careful  way  in  which  "  the  States  " 
is  managed. 


LAKE    IN    THE    ADIRONDACK    MOUNTAINS. 


fSafefsSpsPi^i^^ 


ADIRONDACK    MOUNTAINS. 


The  Adirondack  Mountains  occupy  an  area  of  about  one 
hundred  square  miles  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  New  York 
State,  lying  in  the  counties  of  Hamilton,  Herkimer,  Lewis, 
St.  Lawrence,  Franklin,  Clinton,  Essex,  and  Warren.  Over 
the  greater  part  of  this  extensive  tract  stretch  magnificent 
forests  of  pine,  spruce,  fir,  and  hemlock,  many  of  whose  re- 
cesses have  never  been  trodden  by  mortal  foot. 

In  the  cool  depths  of  these  forests,  and  in  the  valleys  be- 
tween the  mountains,  are  hundreds  of  beautiful  lakes,  vary- 
ing considerably  in  size,  many  of  them  connected  by  tiny 
streams  just  wide  enough  to  permit  the  passage  of  a  small 
boat — links  in  the  grand  system  of  carries  and  portages  by 
which  this  entire  region  is  traversed  with  unerring  step  by 
the  experienced  woodsman. 

Their  waters  of  crystal  purity  teem  with  all  manner  of 
266 


ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS.  269 

gamy  fish, — brook-  and  salmon-trout,  pickerel,  pike,  and 
that  chief  delight  of  anglers,  the  black  bass.  Deer,  moose, 
otter,  beaver,  and  all  kinds  of  small  game  are  abundant, 
and  by  a  wise  provision  of  legislation,  limiting  the  quantity 
of  game  to  be  taken  out  of  the  woods  by  sportsmen,  the 
supply  is  in  no  danger  of  being  exhausted. 

Although  within  a  comparatively  short  distance  of  New 
York  and  Brooklyn,  until  recently  the  charms  of  the  Adi- 
rondacks  were  familiar  only  to  a  few  ardent  sportsmen,  who 
went  there  year  after  year  for  trout  and  venison,  and  who, 
knowing  they  had  "  a  good  thing,"  kept  very  quiet  about  it. 
But  gradually  people  began  to  find  out  what  there  was  away 
up  there  in  the  mountains,  and  the  masses  learned  to  love 
the  cool  forests,  the  sparkling  brooks,  and  grand  lakes,  so 
that  to-day  the  region  has  truly  become  "  The  Nation's 
Pleasure  Ground  and  Sanitarium."  Hotels  have  sprung  up 
in  all  directions,  and  the  accommodations  and  rates  for  en- 
tertainment are  sufficiently  varied  to  suit  all  tastes  and  all 
pocket-books. 

The  railroads,  of  course,  especially  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral, have  been  the  prime  factors  in  this  development,  and 
now,  with  the  completion  of  Dr.  Webb's  road,  the  new  Adi- 
rondack &  St.  Lawrence  Line,  extending  for  nearly  two  hun- 
dred miles  through  the  very  heart  of  the  wilderness,  every 
resort  or  camping-place  of  consequence  is  rendered  easily 
accessible. 

There  are  many  gateways  or  entrances  to  the  North  Woods, 
and  it  would  take  a  good  sized  volume  to  describe  them  all 
in  detail,  but  the  principle  ones  are,  viz.  : 

Via  Herkimer  and  the  Adirondack  &  St.  Lawrence  Line 
to  Fulton  Chain,  Raquette  Lakes,  Paul  Smith's,  Saranac 
and  Tupper  Lakes. 

Via  Saratoga  and  the  Adirondack  Railroad  to  Luzerne  and 
North  Creek; 

Via  Lake  Champlain  and  Westport  to  Au  Sable  Chasm, 
Elizabethtown,  and  Keene  Valley. 

The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad  is,  of 


370  ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS. 

course,  the  initial  line ;  all  routes  to  the  Adirondacks  lead 
over  it.  The  average  cost  of  an  excursion  ticket  to  the  dif- 
ferent prominent  resorts  is  from  $10.00  to  $15.00.  Warm 
clothing  should  be  taken,  but  as  little  of  it  as  possible,  es- 
pecially if  you  contemplate  camping  out.  Wear  good,  stout, 
broad-soled  shoes,  not  boots,  and  do  not  have  hob-nails  in 
them,  as  they  ruin  a  boat.  For  fishing  it  will  be  necessary 
to  have  a  strong  fly  rod,  say  eight  ounces,  about  ten  or  ten 
and  a  half  feet  long,  with  plain  click  reel,  filled  with  thirty- 
five  or  forty  yards  of  water-proof  silk  line  ;  half  a  dozen  stout 
leaders,  and  two  or  three  doz#n  flies  on  No.  6  or  8  sproat. 
Take  bait  hooks,  and  a  few  gangs  for  lake  trout  trolling. 

Thus  equipped,  enter  the  woods,  leaving  behind  all 
thoughts  of  shop  or  office,  all  considerations  of  the  hum- 
drum affairs  of  ordinary,  every-day  life,  and  give  yourself 
unreservedly  to  the  delights  of  fishing  and  exploring.  My 
word  for  it,  you  will  emerge  at  the  end  of  your  vacation  with 
improved  lungs,  improved  health  generally,  and  a  fresh 
stock  of  energy. 


THE   THOUSAND   ISLANDS. 


The  very  name,  Thousand  Islands,  conjures  up  visions  of 
romantic  novelty  and  loveliness,  and  this  is  one  of  the  very 
few  instances  where  "  fancy  does  not  beggar  facts  and 
throw  over  them  the  rags  of  disappointment." 

The  name  is  in  some  respects  a  misnomer,  for  there  are 
nearly  two  thousand  of  these  islands  altogether,  ranging  in 
size  from  a  surface  a  few  yards  in  extent  to  an  area  of  sev- 
eral acres. 

They  are  scattered  in  profusion  for  a  distance  of  forty 
miles,  between  Cape  Vincent  and  Morristown.  As  a  sum- 
mer resort,  the  region  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  rapidly  assum- 
ing that  distinction  in  popular  estimation  to  which  superior 
advantages  justly  entitle  it.  The  climate  is  dry,  cool,  and 
refreshing,  the  surroundings  picturesque,  the  facilities  for 
boating  unexcelled  ;  while  to  the  enthusiastic  fisherman  it 
is  a  veritable  Paradise,  where  bass  and  pickerel  and  the 
mighty  muskallonge  roam  in  countless  numbers. 

The  usual  mode  of  travelling  here  is,  of  course,  by  boat ; 
consequently  a  good  deal  of  attention  has  been  paid  to 
model  and  build,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  skiffs  have  become 
world-renowned.  Boat-building  on  the  river  has  become  an 
established  industry,  forming  the  principal  winter  occupa- 
tion of  most  of  the  guides.  As  the  materials  cost  them  lit- 
tle and  the  boats  command  good  prices,  they  make  a  hand- 
some profit  on  every  sale. 

The  more  luxurious  of  th^se  boats  are  carpeted,  have 
nickel  and  brass  fittings,  and  are  polished  like  a  piano. 
They  are  beautiful  to  the  eye  and  lack  nothing  in  comfort- 
able appointments. 

The  St.  Lawrence  guides  are  not  only  expert  sailors,  but 
271 


272  THE    THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

good  cooks  as  well,  and  it  is  astonishing  what  an  excellent 
meal  they  will  get  up  with  the  limited  means  at  command. 
In  fact,  I  think  an  island  dinner  is  one  of  the  most  enjoyable 
features  of  a  trip  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  principal  points  of  resort  among  the  islands  are  Clay- 
ton, the  railroad  terminus  ;  Round  Island,  the  site  of  the 
Frontenac  Hotel  ;  Thousand  Island  Park,  the  extensive 
camp-meeting  resort  of  the  Methodists  ;  Central  Park  (Cot- 
tage Hotel)  and  Alexandria  Bay,  where  are  located  the 
famous  Crossmon  House  and  the  Thousand  Island  House. 
Alexandria  Bay,  from  its  central  position  in  the  very  heart 
of  the  Thousand  Island  region,  and  from  the  vast  improve- 
ments that  have  sprung  up  as  if  by  magic  within  the  past 
five  years,  both  on  the  islands  and  in  the  mainland,  has 
achieved  a  wide  reputation. 

The  Thousand  Islands  probably  enjoys  the  best  train  ser- 
vice of  any  resort  of  equal  prominence  in  the  world.  Dur- 
ing the  season  the  New  York  Central  runs  several  through 
fast  trains  daily  between  New  York  and  Clayton,  and  last 
year  a  special  car  was  attached  to  its  lightning  Empire 
State  Express  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers  over  this 
route. 


NIAGARA   FALLS   FROM    PROSPECT   POINT. 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 


A  FAMOUS  writer  has  said,  "  No  place  in  the  civilized 
world  offers  such  attractions  as  Niagara,  and  yet  they  can 
never  be  fully  known  except  to  those  who  see  them,  from 
the  utter  impossibility  of  describing  such  scenes.  When 
motion  can  be  expressed  by  color,  then,  and  only  then,  can 
Niagara  be  described." 

My  first  visit  to  Niagara  was  made  in  my  teens,  when,  I 
do  not  hesitate  now  to  admit,  I  could  not  appreciate  its 
wondrous  beauty.  I  saw  nothing  but  a  great  lot  of  water 
rushing  madly  over  the  precipice,  and,  like  the  Irishman,  I 
said  to  myself,  ' '  What's  to  hinder  it  ?  "  But  I  have  been 
there  many  times  since,  and  each  visit  has  only  increased 
my  sense  of  the  surpassing  grandeur  and  majesty  of  the 
scene. 

The  great  features  of  Niagara  you  will  find  ever  the  same, 
but  their  individual  expression  is  constantly  changing. 
With  every  season,  with  every  sunbeam  or  passing  cloud, 
they  assume  a  different  appearance,  and  evoke  new  admira- 
tion. 

Tiie  great  cataract,  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  single 
absorbing  feature  of  Niagara,  is  really  only  one  of  a  multi- 
tude of  attractions.  "It's  tossing  rapids,  its  milk-white 
waves,  its  rainbow-tinted  spray  in  the  opal  light  of  morning, 
the  crimson  and  gold  of  the  sunset  and  under  the  mysteri- 
ous glamour  of  the  moon,"  possess  for  me  equal  powers  of 
fascination. 

When  Father  Hennepin  first  saw  Niagara  Falls,  he  dis- 
covered the  greatest  natural  wonder  in  the  world,  and  those 
early  pioneers  who  started  a  settlement  here  in  the  faith 
that  this  spot  was  susceptible  of  expansion  into  prominence 

273 


274  ^    NIAGARA   FALLS^ 

and  popularity  as  a  resort  for  tourists,  displayed  no  aston- 
ishing foresight,  but  simply  exercised  the  most  ordinary 
faculty  of  common  sense  ;  for  how  could  so  healthful  and 
beautiful  a  place,  encompassing  within  its  borders  the  most 
sublime  masterpiece  of  the  Creator's  handiwork,  lack  appre- 
ciation. 

The  village  of  Niagara  is  most  charming  in  many  ways 
and  undoubtedly  healthful.  The  air  is  invigorating  ;  the 
atmosphere,  constantly  acted  upon  by  the  rushing  water 
and  the  spray,  is  kept  pure  and  fresh  ;  good  roads  extend 
in  every  direction,  and  hotel  adfcommodations  are  ample  and 
excellent.  In  order  to  "do  the  Falls"  thoroughly,  you 
should  stay  here  at  least  a  week,  although  perseverance  and 
a  stout  pair  of  legs  can  get  over  a  good  deal  of  the  ground 
in  less  time.  The  chief  points  of  interest,  aside  from  the 
Falls  themselves,  are  Luna  and  Goat  Islands,  the  Three 
Sister  Islands,  the  Rapids,  the  Whirlpool,  and  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds.  The  last  named  is  an  opening  directly  behind 
the  great  American  Fall.  The  cave  is  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  wide,  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  is  approached  by  a  lit- 
tle bridge,  two  feet  wide,  over  which  the  visitor  must  pass. 
This  is  a  little  terrifying  at  first,  but  the  guide  is  very  posi- 
tive in  his  assurances  that  this  seemingly  frail  structure  is 
perfectly  safe,  being  supported  by  strong  stays  firmly  im- 
bedded in  the  rocks  on  which  it  is  built.  So  fascinating  is 
this  trip,  that  a  visit  to  Niagara  is  incomplete  without  it. 

There  is  also  the  run  down  to  Lewiston  on  one  of  the  ob- 
servation trains  of  the  New  York  Central— a  trip  of  seven 
miles  along  shelving  rock,  overlooking  the  wonderful  gorge 
through  which  the  Niagara  pushes  its  way  onward  to  Lake 
Ontario,  the  foaming  Rapids  and  the  angry  Whirlpool.  Prob- 
ably no  trip  in  the  world  of  equal  length  compares  with  this 
for  grandeur  of  scenery.  Arrived  at  Lewiston,  you  may,  if 
you  please,  continue  your  trip  across  the  lake  to  Toronto,  a 
splendid  line  of  twin-screw  Clyde-built  steamers  plying  be- 
tween the  two  points. 


ATLANTIC  CITY. 


No  foreigner  should  visit  these  shores  without  spending 
at  least  a  day  or  two  at  some  of  our  typical  summer  or 
winter  resorts,  in  season.  He  will  find  their  characteristics 
totally  different  to  any  in  his  own  land,  and  he  may  be  able 
to  gain  by  contact  with  the  people  whom  he  may  meet  at 
these  resorts,  an  idea  of  our  social  peculiarities.  Atlantic 
City  is  a  typical  American  summer  resort,  and  incidentally 
its  peculiar  advantages  as  to  climate  and  soil  have  given 
it  fame  as  a  late  winter  and  early  spring  retreat.  It  is 
not  like  Brighton,  Margate,  Bournemouth,  Torquay,  Trou- 
ville,  Scheveningen,  nor  any  other  foreign  seaside  resort,  but 
it  has  a  combination  of  advantages  peculiar  to  itself.  At- 
lantic City  is  on  the  New  Jersey  coast,  one  hundred  miles  dis- 
tant from  New  York,  and  is  reached  in  ninety  minutes  from 
Philadelphia.  It  is  a  city  in  reality  as  well  as  in  name, 
built  on  an  island  ten  miles  long,  and  surrounded  by  the 
ocean — thus  isolated,  as  by  quarantine,  from  the  approach 
of  diseases  that  are  bred  from  germs  and  microbes.  This, 
together  with  the  dryness  of  the  soil  and  the  excellent 
hygienic  regulations,  preserves  Atlantic  City  from  malaria 
and  makes  it  a  haven  of  rest  or  recreation. 

How  do  visitors  spend  their  time  ?  Much  as  they  please, 
for  the  "  City  by  the  Sea  "  offers  an  embarrassment  of  sum- 
mer pastimes  and  pleasures.  Bathing,  perhaps,  is  the  chief 
recreation.  The  beach  for  bathing  is  unsurpassed,  being 
not  inferior  to  Pablo  Beach,  near  Jacksonville,  Florida. 
The  sea  offers  other  pleasures.  Fleets  of  sail-boats, 
manned  by  "  sea  dogs,"  take  you  for  a  sail  on  the  smooth 
waters  of  the  inlet  or  outside  upon  the  open  sea.  All  boats 
are  provided  with  fishing  tackle  ;   famous  fishing-grounds 

275 


276  ATLANTIC  CITY. 

are  near  by,  and  the  veriest  tyro  in  the  gentle  art  may 
quickly  fill  his  basket.  When  the  day  is  done,  the  great 
hotels  are  ablaze  with  lights  and  brilliant  with  the  evening 
costumes  of  the  fair  guests.  All  the  chief  hotels  provide 
good  orchestral  music,  and,  under  the  stimulation  of  the 
invigorating  atmosphere  of  the  place,  the  dance  is  entered 
upon  with  zest. 

An  attractive  feature  of  Atlantic  City  is  the  "  board 
walk,"  twenty-four  feet  wide,  extending  along  the  edge 
of  the  sea  for  four  miles.  This  is  the  popular  promenade 
by  day  or  night.  The  drive^  are  good,  either  along  the 
smooth,  hard  sands,  or  through  the  broad  streets  of  the 
city,  or  among  the  pines  of  the  mainland.  The  climate 
and  temperature,  both  in  spring  and  summer,  are  delightful 
and  equable.  The  water,  introduced  from  fresh  springs  of 
the  mainland  as  well  as  from  Artesian  wells,  is  abundant 
and  pure.  The  social  attractions  of  Atlantic  City  add  to 
the  charm  of  the  place  at  all  seasons.  In  the  spring  and 
early  summer,  representatives  of  the  best  society  of  New 
York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Washington,  Chicago,  and 
other  cities  east  and  west,  may  be  found  in  the  large 
hotels,  and  many  of  the  habitues  have  handsome  cottages 
of  their  own.  The  individual  attractions  of  the  large 
number  of  excellent  hotels  at  Atlantic  City  are  fully 
enumerated  in  the  summer  resort  guide,  near  the  end  of 
this  volume.  Nowhere,  for  first-class  accommodations,  are 
hotel  rates  so  moderate  as  in  Atlantic  City,  except  possibly 
in  Southern  California.  A  few  houses  may  be  instanced  : 
The  Brighton,  the  Traymore,  Haddon  Hall,  the  Shelburne, 
and  the  Dennis.  These  hotels,  by  the  way,  are  open  the  year 
round.  The  proprietors  of  the  Hotel  Brighton  have  recently 
completed  the  Brighton  "  Casino,"  on  the  Brighton  lawns, 
facing  the  ocean.  It  is  a  handsome  three-story  building 
of  picturesque  architectural  design.  It  contains  luxuriously 
appointed  sun  parlors,  reading  and  smoking  rooms,  a  hand- 
some concert  and  ball  room,  hot  and  cold  sea-baths,  a 
swimming  pool  of  white  marble,  bowling  alley,  and  other 


ATLANTIC  CITY.  377 

attractive  features.     The  cost  is  $60,000,  and  it  will  be  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  structures  on  the  coast. 

Fortunately  for  the  convenience  and  comfort  of  its 
habitues  and  visitors,  Atlantic  City  is  located  on  one  of 
the  branch  lines  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad.  In  fact, 
there  are  two  distinct  lines  operated  by  the  Pennsylvania 
Railroad  from  Philadelphia  to  Atlantic  City.  These  roads 
are  built  and  maintained  in  that  excellent  condition  which 
characterizes  all  the  lines  of  this  great  corporation.  They 
are  so  operated,  as  regards  express  trains,  as  to  secure  the 
advantages  of  a  double-tracked  line,  and,  with  the  frequent 
fast  trains  which  ply  between  the  Quaker  City  and  its  sea- 
side suburb,  this  arrangement  makes  transportation  not 
only  prompt  and  easy,  but  perfectly  safe.  With  all  the 
principal  trains  from  west  and  south,  regular  connection 
is  made  at  Philadelphia  for  Atlantic  City.  The  through 
car  arrangements  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  are  so 
comprehensive,  that  one  can  travel  from  the  most  distant 
points  to  Atlantic  City  with  but  one  change  of  cars.  From 
New  England  and  points  north  and  west  of  New  York  City, 
the  facilities  are  equally  good.  The  fast  express  from  New 
York,  established  several  years  ago,  runs  direct,  without 
change,  from  Jersey  City  to  Atlantic  City  in  three  and  one- 
half  hours.  It  leaves  New  York  in  the  early  afternoon, 
after  the  trains  from  the  north,  east,  and  west  have  all 
arrived,  and  it  reaches  Atlantic  City  in  ample  time  for 
dinner  or  tea.  This  train  is  made  up  of  Pullman  buffet, 
parlor  cars,  and  passenger  coaches.  A  similar  train  leaves 
Atlantic  City  in  the  morning,  and  arrives  in  New  York  be- 
fore luncheon. 


CHICAGO   AND   ITS   HOTELS. 


Chicago  is  best  reached  from  New  York  by  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad  or  the  New  York  Central  and  Hudson 
River  Railroad.  Both  are  popular  routes  and  both  com- 
panies run  frequent  fast  traii^.  The  service  of  trains  on 
each  line  includes  a  "limited,"  composed  entirely  of  ves- 
tibuled  cars,  embodying  the  luxuries  and  appointments 
of  a  first-class  hotel.  These  trains  make  the  journey  in 
twenty-four  hours ;  the  regular  trains  take  about  six  hours 
longer.  The  fare  by  both  roads  is  the  same.  Choice  of 
route  must  depend  largely  upon  fancy.  The  Pennsylvania 
road  passes  around  Horse  Shoe  Bend,  a  picturesque  wonder 
of  Allegheny  mountain  scenery  ;  the  New  York  Central 
route  takes  the  passenger  within  view  of  Niagara  Falls. 
The  Erie  road  also  runs  trains  to  Chicago,  not  so  frequently 
nor  perhaps  at  such  great  speed,  but  the  fare-is  a  trifle  less. 

Chicago  is  a  few  miles  less  than  a  thousand  from  New 
York  by  rail.  It  is  on  the  south-western  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  and  lies  on  its  curving  banks,  along  which  it 
extends  for  about  twenty  miles.  It  is  not  a  particularly 
attractive  city,  because  of  the  appreciable  gloom  cast  by  the 
smoke  from  the  factories  in  the  suburbs.  From  this  smoke 
small  particles  of  carbon — "  smuts" — fall  continually  in  an 
invisible  shower,  sifting  through  the  window  crevices  and 
soiling  furniture,  carpets,  clothing,  and  person.  The  city 
has  some  magnificent  buildings  and  some  remarkably  tall 
ones,  and  many  fine  thoroughfares.  The  characteristic  of 
the  people  is  activity.  In  Western  parlance  they  are 
"  hustlers." 

The  Chicago  River,  which  is  formed  by  the  confluence 
of  two  branches,  one  flowing  from  the  north-west,  the  other 

378 


CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS.  279 

from  the  south,  runs,  after  the  junction  of  these  branches, 
through  the  city  eastward  for  about  half  a  mile  to  the  lake. 
These  streams  are  spanned  by  more  than  fifty  swinging 
bridges,  and  are  tunnelled  for  the  passage  of  cable  cars  and 
traffic.  The  "west,"  the  "north  side,"  and  the  "south 
side  "  are  terms  used  in  locating  streets  or  houses,  and  they 
refer  to  directions  from  this  stream. 

The  World's  Fair  grounds  are  on  the  lake  shore,  about 
five  miles  southward  from  the  heart  of  the  city.  They  are 
easily  accessible  by  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  which  has 
a  convenient  terminus  and  frequent  way-stations  ;  by  the 
elevated  railroad,  which  terminates  at  Congress  Street,  a  step 
from  the  Auditorium  Hotel ;  and  by  the  Wabash  and 
Cottage  Grove  cable  cars  —  the  latter  route,  which  is  the 
longest,  not  occupying  over  half  an  hour,  say,  from  the 
Post  Office.  The  Fair  will  open  on  May  ist,  and  remain 
open  until  the  last  of  October.  Its  magnitude  and  beauty 
must  be  seen  to  be  properly  conceived. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  road  you  will  arrive  at  the  Union 
Depot,  Adams  Street ;  via  the  New  York  Central  you  will 
arrive  at  the  Michigan  Central  Depot  at  Twelfth  Street,  or 
at  the  Lake  Shore  Depot,  Van  Buren  Street.  These  depots 
are  ten  minutes  or  less  from  the  busiest  part  of  the  city,  and 
they  are  within  easy  walking  distance  of  the  chief  hotels. 
Reliable  transfer  companies  will  convey  you  and  your  bag- 
gage to  any  hotel  at  a  fixed  charge.  Hackmen  and  cabmen, 
as  usual,,  will  charge  what  they  can  get,  although  the  legal 
rate  for  cabs  is  twenty-five  cents  per  mile. 

Michigan  Avenue  Boulevard  is  the  finest  thoroughfare. 
No  car  tracks  nor  heavy  traffic  are  permitted.  It  begins  on 
the  lake  front  and  runs  along  its  border  until  the  shore 
curves  away.  At  the  lower  end  are  substantial  business 
structures  and  some  fine  hotels,  notably  the  Auditorium  just 
above  Van  Buren  Street,  at  which  street  is  a  station  of  the 
Illinois  Central  Railroad,  whence  the  guest  of  the  hotels  of 
the  "  down-town"  district  would  start  for  the  Fair.  "Down- 
town "   in    Chicago   is   the  business    portion    of   the  city, 


280  CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS. 

containing  some  of  the  chief  hotels,  the  Post  Office,  banks, 
clubs,  theatres,  and  large  retail  shops.  Chicago  streets  are 
laid  for  the  most  part  at  right  angles  and  offer  no  labyrin- 
thine problems.  Next  parallel  to  Michigan  Avenue  is  State 
Street,  then  Wabash  Avenue,  Dearborn  and  Clark,  all  broad 
and  busy  streets,  traversed  by  cable  cars  which  run  rapidly. 

The  purpose  of  this  chapter  is  to  offer  suggestions  to  the 
stranger  which  will  guide  if  not  direct  him  in  the  choice  of 
an  abiding  place  during  his  stay  in  the  "  Windy  City." 
The  hotels  mentioned  here,  it  may  be  safely  said,  represent 
each  the  best  of  its  kind.  Itjis  to  be  noted  of  them,  in 
general,  that  they  all  have  the  modern  improvements  unless 
otherwise  stated — electric  lights,  hot  and  cold  running  water, 
excellent  ventilation,  and  praiseworthy  sanitation  of  plumb- 
ing, as  well  as  good  domestic  service.  Those  hotels  only 
have  been  selected  which  may  be  commended  :  hotels  to  be 
avoided  in  Chicago,  as  elsewhere,  are  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion. Chicago  hotel  rates  are  not  high,  but  the  visitor 
must  expect  to  pay  more  during  the  continuance  of  the 
Fair.  Where  possible,  rates  for  the  Fair  period  have  been 
obtained.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  hotels  enumerated  here, 
being  first-class  houses,  will  not  fleece  the  visitor.  I  am 
credibly  informed  that  so  far  as  possible  regular  rates  will 
be  adhered  to.  At  all  events,  applications  and  agreements 
as  to  rates  may  be  made  in  advance. 

The  "  down-town  "  hotels,  to  be  mentioned  in  detail  fur- 
ther on,  are  the  Auditorium,  Palmer  House,  Richelieu,  Vic- 
toria, Wellington,  and  Great  Northern — all  within  ten 
minutes'  walk  of  each  other,  and  therefore  all  having  about 
the  same  advantages  of  location.  They  receive  a  large  share 
of  patronage  from  commercial  travellers.  This  district  cor- 
responds to  Fourteenth  Street,  Twenty-third  Street,  and 
Forty-second  Street,  of  New  York.  Another  group  of  hotels 
is  composed  of  the  Virginia,  the  Lakota,  the  Metropole,  and 
the  Lexington,  located  in  quiet  and  fashionable  residential 
portions  of  the  city.  They  compare  in  character  with  the 
Windsor,  Brunswick,  Plaza,  and  Logerot  hotels  of  New  York, 


CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS.  281 

and  not  one  of  them  is  more  than  fifteen  minutes  from  the 
Post  Office  and  Board  of  Trade,  theatres,  etc. 

The  third  group  of  hotels  that  call  for  consideration  are  at 
or  near  the  Fair  grounds.  Among  the  best  of  them  is  the 
Chicago  Beach,  the  Renfost,  and  the  Hyde  Park.  They  are 
not  the  World's  Fair  hotels  which  have  become  notorious 
for  their  flimsy  construction.  They  are  some  distance  from 
down-town,  but  right  in  the  line  of  growth  of  the  choice  resi- 
dence streets.  By  heeding  the  above  suggestions,  it  is  be- 
lieved that  the  visitor  will  be  able  to  decide  whither  to  direct 
his  steps  to  procure  "  bed  and  board,"  without  a  shade  of 
regret  that  he  did  not  go  "  somewhere  else."  Finally,  it  is 
suggested  to  procure  a  guide  to  Chicago  containing  a  good 
map;  Rand,  McNally  &  Co.'s  "Handy  Guide"  may  be 
recommended. 

The  Lakota. — If  you  are  used  to  the  luxuries  and  refine- 
ments of  life,  you  will  miss  them  at  many  of  the  hotels  at 
which  you  are  obliged  to  put  up.  With  this  expectation, 
you  will  be  agreeably  surprised  if  you  should  happen  to 
select  the  Lakota,  Chicago's  newest  select  hotel.  It  is  on 
Michigan  Avenue  Boulevard,  the  pride  of  Chicago  streets, 
through  which  no  trucks  are  allowed  to  pass,  and  no  car- 
tracks  are  laid.  It  stands  at  the  corner  of  Thirtieth  Street  ; 
the  elevated  railroad  station  is  at  Thirty-first  Street,  and 
almost  within  hail  are  the  cable  cars,  bringing  the  life  of 
the  city,  its  shops,  banks,  theatres,  and  clubs,  within  fifteen 
minutes'  ride.  In  respect  of  location,  the  Lakota  does  not 
yield  to  any  hotel  in  the  city.  The  locality  is  ultra-fashion- 
able, this  portion  of  the  boulevard  containing  the  luxurious 
homes  of  Chicago's  famous  multi-millionnaires.  The  Lakota 
was  only  recently  opened,  but  it  was  two  years  a-building 
It  is  constructed  of  steel  and  stone,  absolutely  fire-proof,  and 
architecturally  a  credit  to  the  city.  It  embodies  the  latest 
achievements  and  luxuries  that  the  age  offers  to  travellers. 
The  Lakota  is  ten  stories  high  and  has  three  hundred  rooms, 
the  largest  hotel  apartments  in  Chicago,  suitably  arranged 


888  CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS. 

for  rental  en  suite  or  singly.  The  building  is  so  constructed 
that  each  room,  and  even  every  bath-room,  opens  on  the 
street.  In  furnishing  and  decoration  the  Lakota  is  in  per- 
fect harmony  with  the  aristocratic  homes  that  surround  it. 
The  main  floor  is  finished  in  pure  marble,  massive  and  beau- 
tifully carved,  and  the  apartments  are  finished  in  five  different 
kinds  of  cabinet  woods,  not  varnished,  but  piano-polished. 
Among  the  notable  features  of  this  hotel  are  its  cuisine  and 
its  service — a  "  club  "  service.  The  kitchen  itself  would 
commend  the  Lakota  to  the  favor  of  fastidious  people.  All 
in  all,  this  hotel  will  easily  take  rank  with  the  Windsor 
Hotel,  New  York,  which  should  be  considered  a  high  com- 
pliment. The  carpets  are  Bigelow  Wiltons,  from  Sloane's  ; 
the  wall  papers  are  rich  and  harmonious,  to  which  the  furni- 
ture corresponds  ;  Gotham  silverware  and  Haviland  china 
are  used  ;  the  linen  was  woven  to  order  in  France.  Not- 
withstanding this  luxury,  the  rates  are  moderate  ;  American 
plan,  from  $5  per  day ;  European  plan,  rooms  from  $2  per 
day ;  meals  in  the  restaurant,  k  la  carte,  or  at  $17.50  by  the 
week.  The  manager,  Mr.  James  R.  Keenan,  formerly  man- 
aged the  Shoreham,  in  Washington,  whose  patronage  was 
drawn  from  the  aristocratic  foreign  residents  of  that  city  and 
from  the  best  society  in  New  York  and  other  cities. 


The  Virginia. — Also  removed  from  the  noise  and  bustle 
of  the  business  part  of  the  city,  and  in  a  district  of  private 
residences,  but  still  within  ten  minutes'  ride  of  the  centres. 
It  was  erected  and  is  owned  by  Leander  J.  McCormick,  a 
wealthy  Chicagoan,  who  destined  it  for  a  fashionable  apart- 
ment house,  which  idea  the  location  would  have  warranted, 
but  it  was  opened  in  1891  as  a  hotel  instead.  The  Virginia 
is  at  Rush  and  Ohio  Streets,  across  the  river,  but  readily  ac- 
cessible to  the  Fair  or  to  the  Post  Office.  The  building  is 
ten  stories  high,  absolutely  fire-proof,  and  admirably  con- 
structed for  disposition  into  suites  or  single  rooms.  The 
Virginia  is  conducted  solely  upon  the  American  plan  ;  rates 


CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS.  283 

from  $4  per  day.  It  has  few  transient  patrons  ;  most  of  its 
guests  are  habitues,  refined  people  of  means.  The  Virginia 
is  luxuriously  appointed,  and  is  embellished  with  many  val- 
uable works  of  art.  The  cuisine  is  a  feature.  It  has  other 
features  not  found  at  all  hotels,  in  its  manner  of  caring  for 
the  petty  comforts  of  guests.  Address,  Virginia  Hotel  Co., 
J.  P.  Whedon,  manager. 


The  Auditorium.— The  largest  hotel  in  Chicago,  and 
one  of  the  famous  hotels  of  the  country.  The  title  embraces 
really  two  hotels  under  one  management.  The  first  is  the 
original  structure  known  under  that  name,  an  absolutely 
fire-proof  building  covering  one  and  a  half  acres,  standing  on 
Michigan  Avenue,  Wabash  Avenue,  and  Congress  Street, 
facing  the  lake.  The  other  building  was  recently  completed, 
and  is  on  the  opposite  corner  of  Michigan  Avenue.  It  is  of 
similar  architecture,  and  they  are  nearly  of  a  size.  A  tunnel 
connects  them.  The  older  house  is  conducted  on  the  Euro- 
pean plan,  $2  to  $5  per  day  ;  the  newer  on  the  American 
plan.  In  both  together  there  are  nearly  one  thousand 
rooms.  The  dining-room  of  the  main  house,  on  the  tenth 
floor,  affords  extended  views  of  the  lake  and  a  stretch  of 
Chicago's  grand  boulevard,  Michigan  Avenue,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach.  Everything  about  the  Auditorium  is  on  a 
sumptuous  scale,  yet  the  prices  are  not  higher  than  at  other 
hotels  of  a  corresponding  class.  The  Auditorium  is  one  of 
the  features  of  Chicago,  and  it  affords  Chicagoans  a  conven- 
ient **  point  of  departure."  The  top  of  the  Auditorium  tower 
is  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  above  the  lake.  The  two 
Auditorium  buildings  are  controlled  by  separate  companies, 
but  the  one  is  largely  interested  in  the  other,  and  Mr.  R, 
H.  Southgate  manages  both  houses. 


The  Richelieu. — The  Richelieu  is  a  refined  and  home- 
like hotel.     It  is  a  novelty  in  hotels  for  Chicago,  but  not  for 


384  CHICAGO   AND   ITS  HOTELS. 

New  York,  where  we  have  the  Sherman  Square,  the  Hotel 
de  Logerot,  and  other  hotels  of  the  class.  The  Richelieu 
enjoys  the  same  advantages  of  location  as  the  Auditorium 
and  the  Victoria — on  Michigan  Avenue,  fronting  the  lake. 
It  is  conducted  entirely  upon  the  European  plan,  and  its 
cuisine  and  wines  are  famous.  There  are  one  hundred  and 
thirty-nine  rooms,  ranging  in  price  from  $2  per  day  to  $15 
for  parlor,  two  bedrooms,  and  bath.  The  house  is  lighted  by 
electricity  throughout  and  has  an  elevator.  The  Richelieu 
is  a  select  house  in  the  full  sense  of  the  word,  and  is 
especially  notable  for  the  cour^sy  of  its  proprietor,  as  well 
as  for  the  excellence  of  his  table  and  his  wines. 


The  Metropole. — One  of  the  best  hotels  in  Chicago. 
It  is  located  on  the  Michigan  Boulevard  at  Twenty-third 
Street,  among  the  fashionable  private  residences  ;  a  step  from 
the  elevated  railroad  station,  and  one  block  from  the  Wabash 
Avenue  cable  cars,  by  which  the  Fair  grounds  or  the  business 
and  shopping  centres  are  easily  and  quickly  reached.  It  is 
a  large  fire-proof  building  of  brown  stone,  seven  stories 
high,  and  contains  about  three  hundred  rooms.  The  house 
is  so  built,  with  recessed  facades,  that  the  light  of  day 
enters  directly  every  room.  The  rooms  are  arranged  singly 
or  maybe  thrown  into  suites.  The  Metropole  is  conducted 
upon  both  the  American  and  European  plans  ;  from  $3  per 
day  by  the  former — special  rates  for  a  protracted  stay.  In 
furnishing,  decorations,  and  appointments,  the  Metropole  is 
luxurious,  tasteful,  and  artistic.  Messrs.  Miller  &  Meserve, 
managers. 

The  Palmer  House. — The  Palmer  House  is  one  of  the 
best  known  hotels  in  the  United  States,  and  its  reputation 
is  admirably  sustained.  It  corresponds  in  Chicago  to  the 
famous  Astor  House  in  New  York.  It  is  owned  by  Potter 
Palmer,  the  millionnaire,  and  it  is  an  object  of  great  pride 
with  him  to  maintain  its  high  character.    The  Palmer  House 


CHICAGO  AND   ITS  HOTELS.  285 

occupies  the  larger  part  of  the  block  bounded  by  Wabash 
Avenue,  Monroe  Street,  Adams  Street,  and  State  Street,  right 
in  the  busy  heart  of  Chicago,  convenient  and  accessible  to 
everywhere.  Tourists  of  the  best  class,  families,  and  com- 
mercial travellers,  for  whom  special  apartments  are  set 
aside,  seek  the  Palmer  House.  One  portion  of  the  house  is 
devoted  entirely  to  families  who  have  lived  there  for  years. 
The  hotel  contains  seven  hundred  and  fifty  rooms.  It  is 
conducted  upon  both  the  American  and  European  plans  ; 
rates  by  the  former,  from  $3  per  day.  Single  rooms  may  be 
had  from  $1  per  day.  The  rooms  are  all  comfortably, 
although  not  luxuriously,  furnished.  An  excellent  restaurant, 
with  moderate  tariff,  is  attached  to  the  house.  Special 
announcement  is  made  that  rates  during  the  Fair  period 
will  not  be  advanced,  but  two  guests  occupying  the  same 
room  will  be  expected  to  pay  each  the  regular  price  of  the 
room.  The  stranger  may  rely  upon  courteous  treatment 
and  consideration.  The  Palmer  House  is  not  modern,  but 
it  is  provided  with  all  the  latest  appointments,  with  the 
exception  of  electric  lights.  There  is  an  air  of  plainness 
and  honesty  about  the  Palmer  House  that  at  once  commends 
it.     The  walls  are  hung  with  some  notable  paintings. 


The  Lexington  Hotel. — On  Michigan  Boulevard  at 
Twenty-second  Street,  one  block  below  the  Metropole,  and 
having  the  same  accessibility.  It  was  opened  in  the  fall  of 
1892,  and  it  is  advertised  as  being  "  absolutely  fire-proof." 
It  has  five  hundred  rooms,  and  is  conducted  upon  both  the 
American  and  European  plans,  the  management  having  a 
preference  for  the  former.  Rates  from  $4  per  day.  For 
the  Fair  period  higher  prices  will  be  charged.  The  rooms 
are  arranged  en  suite,  forming  an  apartment  with  a  small 
private  hallway,  but  they  may  be  rented  singly.  The 
Lexington  is  intended  for  people  of  means  and  good  taste. 
The  circular  of  the  hotel  speaks  of  it  as  "the  nearest 
strictly  first-class  hotel  to  the  Fair  grounds  ;  "  but  this  is  a 


2^  CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS. 

mistake — the  Lakota  is  nearer  to  the  Fair  grounds.  The 
lessee  of  the  Lexington,  E.  A.  Bacheldor,  is  reputed  to  be 
rich,  and  money  has  not  been  stinted  to  make  the  house 
desirable  for  visitors.  Restaurant  and  cafd  are  attached  to 
the  house. 

The  Wellington  is  a  "  down-town  "  hotel  of  excellent 
report,  at  the  corner  of  Wabash  Avenue  and  Jackson  Street, 
conducted  on  the  European  plan,  with  first-class  restaurants 
attached.  Rates  from  $2  per  day.  It  is  an  agreeable,  quiet 
house,  in  the  busy  district.  Proprietors,  Gage  Hotel  Co.; 
Albert  S.  Gage,  president  and  manager. — The  Victoria 
enjoys  excellent  patronage.  It  is  near  the  Auditorium,  on 
Michigan  Avenue  at  Van  Buren  Street.  American  plan  only ; 
rates  from  $3  per  day.  A  family  hotel,  in  a  choice  location. 
Proprietor,  J.  M.  Lee  ;  associate  and  manager,  E.  A.  Whip- 
ple.— The  Great  Northern  Fire-proof  Hotel  is  op- 
posite the  Post  Office,  fronting  on  Dearborn  Street.  Strictly 
European  plan  ;  rooms  from  $3  per  day.  Its  three  restau- 
rants are  a  feature.  A  fourteen-story  building,  modern  in 
all  of  its  appointments  and  beautiful  in  many.  Caters 
largely  to  a  business  patronage,  but  has  many  elaborately 
furnished  suites.  Proprietors,  Alvin  Hulbert  and  Wm.  S. 
Eden. — The  Grand  Pacific,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Post  Office,  is  a  house  for  commercial  men  and  transient 
guests.  American  plan  only  ;  from  $4  per  day.  A  plain, 
business-like  hotel  of  large  size  and  good  repute. 


Near  the  Fair  Grounds. — The  remaining  hotels  to  be 
mentioned  here  are  not  "  World's  Fair  hotels,"  as  a  class 
of  more  or  less  temporary  structures  is  called,  but  hotels  of 
the  first  class,  having  locations  near  the  Exposition  grounds. 
Members  of  the  celebrated  Leland  family  of  hotel-keepers 
manage  some  of  the  best,  and  that  name  should  be  of  itself 
sufficient  recommendation.  Warren  F.  Leland,  who  has  had 
long  experience  as  a  hotel  proprietor  in  Chicago,  will  con- 


CHICAGO  AND  ITS  HOTELS.  387 

duct  the  Chicago  Beach  Hotel,  a  new,  attractive  and 
substantial  brick  building,  situated  directly  on  the  lake 
shore,  at  Fifty-first  Street  Boulevard,  a  stone's  throw  from 
the  Illinois  Central  Railroad.  All  outside  rooms.  American 
and  European  plans  ;  by  the  former,  $5  per  day  and  up- 
ward.— The  Renfost  is  a  beautiful,  permanent  structure 
of  nearly  five  hundred  rooms,  located  on  Cottage  Grove  Ave- 
nue, facing  Washington  Park.  It  is  conducted  by  Lewis  Le- 
land,  formerly  of  the  Sturtevant  House,  New  York,  for  a 
select  class  of  tourists  and  families. — Warren  Leland,  Jr.,  of 
Long  Branch  fame,  and  the  present  popular  manager  of  the 
Oglethorpe,  at  Brunswick,  Ga.,  has  the  Ingram  Hotel,  on 
Sixtieth  Street,  facing  the  entrance  to  the  Fair  grounds.  It 
has  distinct  advantages  of  location,  and  many  features  and 
appointments  desirable  in  a  hotel  for  tourists  and  strangers. 
It  is  conducted  upon  the  European  plan,  with  the  best  cui- 
sine and  service  attainable.  Rates  for  single  rooms,  from  $2 
per  day ;  double  rooms,  from  $3. — Charles  E.  Leland,  who 
for  many  years  kept  the  Clarendon,  at  Saratoga,  manages 
The  World's  Inn,  at  Sixtieth  Street  and  Madison  Avenue, 
near  the  Fair  grounds. — The  Hyde  Park  Hotel,  on  Fifty- 
first  Street  Boulevard  and  Lake  Avenue,  is  not  far  from  the 
Chicago  Beach  Hotel.  It  was  built  before  the  Fair  was  pro- 
posed, and  it  is  patronized  by  families  and  permanent  guests. 
American  plan  only,  except  during  the  Fair  period.  Rates, 
$3  and  upward  ;  higher  rates  during  the  Exposition.  A 
quiet,  well-conducted  family  hotel.  Proprietors,  Messrs. 
Charles  F.  Milligan  &  Co. 


RAILWAY   TRAVELLING    IN   AMERICA. 


It  is  impossible  for  the  young  people  of  this  generation  to 
fully  appreciate  the  luxury  of  the  age  in  which  they  are  liv- 
ing. What  wonderful  strides  in  facilities  for  railway  travel- 
ling, for  example,  have  been  i^ade  within  the  past  five  and 
twenty  years,  or  say,  even,  within  the  last  decade  ! 

I  begin  to  fear  that  I  am  no  longer  young.  That  I  am 
growing  reminiscent  is  of  itself  proof  that  I  am  growing  old, 
but  I  cannot  help  recalling  the  discomforts  of  railway  travel- 
ling which  existed  before  the  existence  of  a  Pullman  sleeper 
or  a  Wagner  drawing-room  car,  any  more  than  I  can  forget 
a  through  trip  which  I  once  made  from  Cleveland  to  New 
York  when  I  was  "  in  my  teens." 

Some  of  the  compartments  in  a  first-class  English  railway 
carriage  are  cosey  and  comfortable  enough  for  a  short  jour- 
ney, but  one  of  the  most  luxurious  cars  I  ever  travelled  in 
was  a  new  Wagner  palace  car  which  was  attached,  one  day 
last  summer,  to  "  the  3.30  Saratoga  Express,"  on  the  New 
York  Central  Railway  ;  and  I  say  this  after  having  tried 
*'  the  Oriental  Express  "  between  Paris  and  Vienna,  the  Pull- 
man between  Milan  and  Basle,  and  the  celebrated  "  Flying 
Scotchman  "  between  London  and  Edinburgh.  This  Wag- 
ner was  as  perfect  in  its  way  for  day  travel,  as  are  the  Pull- 
man cars  of  the  justly  famed  "  Florida  Special"  (vestibuled 
train)  of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  for  night  or  through 
travel,  and  this  is  saying  a  very  great  deal. 

The  car  under  notice  was  also  vestibuled.  It  was  strongly 
and  stoutly  built,  and  was  set  on  spiral  springs  which  carried 
their  great  burden  with  the  greatest  ease,  allowing  the  car 
to  swing  freely  with  a  pleasant  motion  and  little  noise.  The 
interior  woodwork  was  of  polished  mahogany,  the  floor  car- 

288 


RAILWAY  TRAVELLING  IN  AMERICA.     289 

peted  with  Wilton,  and  the  upper  sides  and  ceiling  tastefully, 
not  gaudily,  decorated.  There  is  no  sitting  close  together, 
as  in  the  cars  abroad  ;  each  passenger  has  a  separate  chair. 
It  is  a  revolving  arm-chair,  plush  covered,  and  over  the  back 
of  the  chair  there  is  a  linen  "tidy," — a  clean  tidy.  The 
chairs — no,  the  seats — on  "  the  other  side  "  are  also  covered, 
but  the  covers  are  often  anything  but  spotless.  How  often 
they  are  removed  it  is  not  easy  to  tell;  all  the  "  tidies  "  in 
a  Wagner  car  are  whipped  off  every  day. 

There  are  brass  hooks  for  hats  and  wraps,  instead  of 
racks,  and  a  low  shelf  which  may  be  used  for  umbrellas  or 
canes.  Each  passenger  has  a  foot-stool,  and  I  am  sorry  to 
add  that  the  company  find  it  necessary  to  furnish  to  each 
passenger  a  cuspadore.  It  shines  like  new  silver,  to  be 
sure,  but  still  the  suggestion  is  not  a  pleasant  one,  and  it  is 
a  feature  to  which  Americans  cannot  point  with  pride. 

The  windows  are  not  ten  by  twelve  inches  :  they  measure 
two  feet  eight  inches  each  way,  and  the  panes  are  of  heavy 
plate  glass.  To  each  opening  there  are  double  windows, 
for  winter  service.  The  shades,  for  utility,  are  of  dark  blue  ; 
and  above  these,  for  ornament,  are  old-gold  satin-damask 
lambrequins.  For  ornamentation  also  there  is  at  either  end 
of  the  car  a  large  mirror  with  silvered  pole,  and  curtains  to 
match  the  window  drapery. 

No  knee  robes  are  needed  in  this  country  for  railway 
travel  :  Wagner  cars  are  heated  by  steam.  Do  you  want 
air  without  dust  ?  the  porter  will  raise  the  window  and  insert 
a  wire  screen  as  well  as  a  cinder  deflector.  Are  your  hands 
soiled  ?  step  into  the  lavatory.  You  won't  find  there  a  tiny 
metal  basin,  but  a  marble  washstand  and  bowl,  and  over 
this  a  tap  with  ample  supply  of  water,  plenty  of  towels,  clean 
comb  and  brush,  etc.,  iced  water  at  your  hand. 

But  you  need  not  stir  from  your  seat  for  a  glass  of  water  ; 
touch  an  electric  bell  while  seated  in  your  chair,  and,  as  if 
by  magic,  a  sable  attendant  will  be  at  your  side  with  a  glass 
of  cold  water,  or  something  which  you  may  deem  more  re- 
freshing.    Nor  need  you  leave  the  car  for  a  quiet  smoke ; 


290     RAILWAY  TRAVELLING  IN  AMERICA. 

at  one  end  there  is  a  comfortably  furnished  smoking-room, 
with  all  that  the  title  implies. 

The  cost  of  such  a  car,  so  the  Wagner  conductor  in- 
formed me,  is  about  fifteen  thousand  dollars. 

If  you  require  anything  more  luxurious  for  day  travel  than 
one  of  these  new  Wagner  palace  cars,  you  will  have  to  wait 
until  somebody  racks  his  brain  to  add  an  additional  contriv- 
ance. But  you  may  have  to  wait  until  the  end  of  the  cen- 
tury. 


; 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE, 
•1893. 


INDEX  TO  CHAPTERS. 


I. — Hudson  Highland  Range. 

II. — Shawangunk  Region. 

III. — Catskill  Region. 

IV. — Otsego  Region. 

V. — Central  Lakes — Niagara. 

VI. — Saratoga  Springs. 

VII. — Lake  George  Region. 

VIII. — Adirondack  Region. 

IX. — Green  Mountain  Region. 

X. — White  Mountains — Maine  Lakes. 

XI. — Berkshire  Hills — Connecticut  Hills. 

XII. — New  Jersey  Highlands. 

XIII. — Highlands  of  the  Delaware. 

XIV. — Appalachian  Region  of  Pennsylvania,  West  Virginia 
AND  North  Carolina. 

XV. — New  Jersey  Shore — Staten  Island. 

XVI. — Long   Island. 

XVII. — Connecticut  Shore. 

XVIII. — Narragansett  Bay,  South   Massachusetts  Shore  and 
Islands. 

XIX.— Eastern  Shore. 

XX.— The  West. 


293  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

I. 

HUDSON  HIGHLAND  RANGE. 


The  range  of  mountains  obliquely  crossing  the  Hudson  and 
known  as  the  Hudson  Highlands,  forms  part  of  the  great  chain 
distinguished  as  the  Blue  Ridge  in  Pennsylvania  and  the  Green 
Mountains  in  Vermont ;  the  name  may  be  applied  to  all  that  part 
of  the  chain  which  falls  within  the  State  of  New  York.  The 
Hudson  enters  the  Highlands  at  Cornwall  (fifty-six  miles  from  New 
York),  and  leaves  them  at  Peekskill  (forty-two  miles).  At  about 
two-thirds  the  distance  from  Peekskill  to  Cornwall,  on  the  west 
side,  is  West  Point,  famous  for  Its  view  and  as  the  site  of  the 
United  States  Military  Academy.  Opposite  West  Point  is  Garrison 
station,  where  all  trains  of  the  Hudson  River  road  stop,  and  where 
there  is  a  steam  ferry.  Cranston's  and  other  places  on  the  west 
bank  are  reached  by  the  West  Shore  road  (Franklin  and  West 
Forty-second  streets).  The  Albany  morning  boats  and  the  Mary 
Powell  make  landings  at  West  Point,  Cornwall  and  Newburg. — 
Lake  Mahopac,  the  largest  of  the  beautiful  lakes  of  the  Highland 
region,  is  accessible  in  an  hour  and  a  half  from  New  York  by 
Golden's  Bridge  branch  of  the  Harlem  railroad,  or  by  the  New 
York  City  and  Northern  railroad,  connecting  with  the  Sixth  avenue 
elevated  road. — Greenwood  lake,  on  the  western  limit  of  this  region, 
lies  partly  in  New  Jersey,  at  an  elevation  of  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
feet ;  reached  by  the  New  York  and  Greenwood  Lake  railroad  (Cham- 
bers and  Twenty-third  street  ferries). — The  hills  that  border  the 
Hudson  below  the  Highlands  may  be  regarded  as  spurs  or  foot- 
hills of  the  mountains ;  they  are  accessible  on  the  east  bank  by  the 
Hudson  River  railroad  (Grand  Central  Depot),  and  by  the  New 
York  City  and  Northern  railroad,  connecting  with  the  Manhattan 
elevated  road ;  on  the  west  bank  by  the  Northern  New  Jersey 
(Chambers  and  West  Twenty- third  streets),  which  comes  out  on  the 
river  at  Piermont  (twenty-seven  miles),  and  by  the  West  Shore 
railroad  (Franklin  and  West  Forty-second  streets),  which  comes  out 
on  the  river  at  Haverstraw  (thirty- three  miles).  All  the  more  impor- 
tant places  on  either  bank  below  the  Highlands  are  touched  by 
steam-boats  that  leave  every  afternoon  (except  Sunday)  from  foot 
of  Harrison  and  West  Twenty-second  streets. 


GARRISON— The  Highland  House.— On  a  plateau  300  feet 
above  and  half  a  mile  from  Garrison  station  on  the  Hudson  River  rail- 
road ;  one  and  a  quarter  hours  from  New  York ;   connection  with 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.  293 

West  Point  by  steam  ferry  ;  outlooks  and  towers  on  South  Redoubt 
Mountains,  800  to  1,000  feet  above  the  river  ;  lawn  of  twenty  acres 
well  shaded  ;  latest  sanitary  improvements ;  water  from  mountain 
springs ;  lawn  tennis ;  bowling  and  billiard  rooms ;  livery  and 
boarding  stables ;  stage  meets  all  trains :  receives  one  hundred  and 
fifty  guests.     Open  in  May. 


WEST  POINT — Cranston's. — A  station  on  the  West  Shore  rail- 
road, a  short  distance  below  West  Point ;  a  famous  hotel  situated 
on  a  bold  promontory,  commanding  a  grand  river  and  mountain 
view  ;  elevator,  gas,  halls  heated  by  steam,  open  fire-places  in  all 
rooms  ;  baths  on  all  the  floors  ;  four  cottages  on  the  gfrounds  luxu- 
riously fitted  up ;  livery  at  moderate  prices  ;  boarding  stables  with 
night  watchman ;  skilful  eke/  de  cuisine  and  well-disciplined 
waiters. 

CORNWALL — Elmer  House. — Five  minutes'  walk  from  landing 
and  the  West  Shore  railroad  station  ;  on  a  bluff  two  hxmdred  and 
fifty  feet  above  the  river ;  family  hotel ;  electric  lights ;  good  stab- 
ling ;  receives  one  hundred  guests.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $2.50  to 
$3;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $20.  Special  rates  for  the  season.  Open 
from  May  to  December.  Proprietor  (for  the  last  20  years)  :  Wil- 
liam B.  Elmer,  Comwall-on-Hudson,  Orange  county,  N.  Y. 


GREENWOOD  LAKE— Brandon  House.— On  a  spur  of  the 
moimtain  jutting  into  the  lake,  with  lawns  sloping  to  the  shore  on 
either  side ;  gfrounds  of  fifty  acres ;  shaded  walks  and  picturesque 
rambles  ;  water  from  mountain  spring  ;  complete  new  sanitary  ar- 
rangements ;  telegraph  and  telephone ;  two  hours  and  fifteen  minutes 
from  New  York ;  two  express  trains  daily.  Prices : — By  the  day, 
$2.50  to  $3;  by  the  week,  special  rates;  special  rates  for  June. 
Proprietor :  D.  Edgar  Close,  Greenwood  Lake.  Orange  covmty. 
N.  Y  ___ 

QUAKER  HILL— MizzEN  Top.— Three  miles  from  Pawling  on 
the  Harlem  R.  R. ;  elevation  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet,  af- 
fording far-reaching  and  varied  mountain  views ;  gas,  electric  bells, 
bath-rooms,  steam-heating  apparatus  and  spring  water ;  thorough 
sanitary  system  ;  billiard  room  and  bowling  alley ;  an  "  amusement 
hall "  and  ladies'  billiard  rooms ;  music  for  the  season ;  wide  ve- 
randas ;  hotel  stage  runs  morning  and  afternoon  to  Hamersly  lake, 
where  there  are  row  and  sail  boats  and  good  fishing ;  stabling  and 


2M  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

livery ;    receives  two  hundred  guests.     Prices  : — By   the   day,  $4 ; 
special  rates  for  June.  

PAWLING — DuTCHER  House. — Sixty-three  miles  from  New 
York  by  the  Harlem  road,  a  few  minutes  from  the  station  ;  elevation 
seven  hundred  feet ;  substantial  building  with  Queen  Anne  cot- 
tages ;  large  rooms ;  hot  and  cold  baths ;  electric  bells ;  water  from 
mountain  springs ;  grounds  of  twelve  acres ;  opera  house,  with 
stage  appointments ;  daily  concerts ;  receives  two  hundred 
guests.     Address,  Dutcher  House,  Pawling,  Duchess  county,  N.  Y. 


YONKERS — The  Glenwood.— At  Glenwood,  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  thirty-five  minutes  from  Ne,w  York,  via  N.  Y.  C.  and  H.  R. 
R . ,  or  Northern  Railroad  ;  convenient  summer  residence  for  families ; 
bar  ;  modern  improvements ;  boating,  fishing,  bowling ;  receives 
sixty  guests.  Prices : — By  the  week,  for  single  person,  $10  to  $12, 
for  two,  $16  to  $20 ;  children,  half  rate. 


SPUYTEN  UUYVIL— Brentkori)  Hall.— The  first  railway 
station  on  the  Hudson  river  road  above  Manhattan  Island,  at  the 
junction  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  with  the  Hudson  ;  house  situated 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  of  which  it  commands  beautiful 
views  ;  within  twenty-two  minutes  of  Grand  Central  depot ;  exten- 
sive, well  shaded  grounds  ;  tennis  and  croquet ;  delightful  drives. 
Prices  : — By  the  week,  $10  to  $15. 


LAKE  MAHOPAC — Thompson's  Hotel.— On  the  southern  shore 
of  the  lake,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  its  islands  and  wooded 
hills  ;  large  and  comfortably  fitted  up  rooms  in  suites  for  families ; 
perfect  drainage  ;  billiard-room,  bowling-alley  ;  steam  yacht,  sail  and 
row  boats  ;  telegraph  office  ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open 
from  June  to  October.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3.50;  by  the  week, 
$15  to  $25.     Proprietor,  Emerson  Clark,  Lake  Mahopac,  N.  Y. 


LAKE  MAHOPAC— Dean  House.— On  a  shaded  lawn  of  eight 
acres  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  sloping  to  the  wharves  and  boat- 
house  ;  bathing-house,  handsome  boats ;  billiard-room,  bowling-al- 
ley ;  stabling  ;  milk  and  vegetables  from  the  hotel  farm  ;  furnished 
cottage  to  let,  with  board  at  hotel.  Open  about  June  i.  Prices  : — 
By  the  day,  $3.50;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $30.  Proprietor,  A.  H. 
Dean,  Lake  Mahopac,  N.  Y. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  295 

U. 

SHAWANGUNK  REGION. 


Under  this  name  may  be  included  that  elevated  plateau  which, 
touching  on  the  Hudson  between  Rondout  and  Poughkeepsie,  ex- 
tends from  the  Wallkill  Valley  on  the  east  to  the  western  descent 
of  the  Blue  Hills  beyond  the  upper  waters  of  the  Susquehanna, 
embracing  Sullivan  and  parts  of  Ulster  and  Delaware  counties.  It 
is  crossed  by  the  Shawangunk  Mountains,  and  west  of  them  by  a 
wilderness  of  hills  and  valleys  which,  in  primitive  savagery,  may 
almost  take  rank  with  the  Adirondacks.  It  is  a  favored  haunt  of 
sportsmen.  Clubs  of  sportsmen  have  purchased  lakes  and  tracts 
ot  land,  and  are  doing  much  to  preserve  the  fish  and  game.  The 
southwestern  portion  of  this  regfion  is  crossed  by  the  Erie  railway, 
branches  of  which  extend  from  Middletown  to  Pine  Bush  in  Ulster 
county,  and  from  Port  Jervis  to  Monticello  in  Sullivan  county. 
The  central  portion  is  penetrated  by  the  New  York,  Ontario  and 
Western  Railway  (Franklin  and  West  Forty-second  streets) ;  from 
Campbell  Hall  a  branch  of  this  road  runs  through  the  Wallkill 
Valley  to  Rondout-Kingston  on  the  Hudson ;  from  Summitville 
a  branch  extends  eight  miles  to  EUenville,  Sullivan  county ;  from 
Walten  a  branch  extends  seventeen  miles  to  Delhi,  Delaware 
county.  The  villages  and  hamlets  thus  brought  within  easy  reach 
lie  at  an  elevation  of  from  700  to  2,200  feet  above  tide  water. 


LAKE  MINNEWASKA— Cliff  House  and  the  Wildmere.—  A 
lake  of  very  picturesque  environment,  at  an  elevation  of  one  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  feet,  on  the  most  easterly  range  of  the  Shawan- 
gunk Mountain  region,  ten  miles  by  stage  from  New  Paltz  on  the 
Wallkill  Valley  road,  accessible  via  Kingston  on  the  West  Shore  road, 
or  via  Campbell  Hall  on  the  New  York,  Ontario  and  Western  road. 
The  Cliff  House,  standing  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
lake  on  the  east,  commands  a  view  extending  from  the  Hudson 
Highlands  on  the  south  to  the  Catskills,  and  up  the  Hudson  river 
valley  to  the  Lake  George  region  on  the  north,  and  from  the  line 
of  the  Berkshire  Hills  and  Green  Mountains  on  the  east  and  north- 
east, to  ranges  of  the  Shawangunk  Hills  on  the  west ;  it  receives 
two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The  Wildmere  House,  on  the  ridge 
west  of  the  lake,  is  somewhat  larger  than  the  former  and  commands 
similar  views ;  it  is  still  more  recent  in  construction  ;  lighted  with 
gas,  halls  heated  by  furnaces,  the  rooms  having  open  fire-places 
for  burning  the  resinous  mountain  pine ;  privat«  balconies.    The 


396  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

region  surrounding  the  lake  is  overgp-own  with  pine  and  hemlock, 
and  remains  in  its  primitive  condition,  with  the  exceptions  that 
roads  have  been  opened  to  the  various  waterfalls,  caverns,  preci- 
pices, etc.,  with  which  it  abounds.  Both  houses  are  temperance 
houses,  and  in  the  management  certain  restrictions  are  imposed 
which  have  secured  for  them  a  select  patronage.  Prices : — By  the 
day.  $2  to  $3,  according  to  the  season  ;  by  the  week,  in  June,  $ii  to 
$14;  July  and  August,  $15  to  $20  ;  after  September  i,  $14  to  $16; 
modified  rates  for  double  rooms.     Proprietor,  Alfred  H.  Smiley. 


ELLENVILLE — Mr.  Meenahga  House. — Two  miles  by  stage 
from  Ellenville — a  village  of  four  thousand  inhabitants,  termmus  of 
branch  of  the  New  York,  Ontario  and  Western  road ;  elevation  one 
thousand  five  hundred  feet ;  two  hundred  acres  of  wild  mountain 
land  ;  view  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Catskill  ranges  ;  enlarged 
since  last  season ;  wide  hallways,  veranda  one  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  long ;  a  "  library  building,"  well  supplied  with  books,  maga- 
zines, etc.;  bowling  alley  and  children's  playground;  gas,  steam 
heat  and  open  fires  ;  electric  bells  in  all  rooms ;  spring  water ;  bath- 
rooms ;  a  strict  temperance  house ;  six  furnished  cottages  rented 
for  the  season  at  $ioo  to  $200,  with  table  board  at  $8 ;  receives 
one  hundred  and  seventy-five  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50 
and  $3;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $25 ;  double  rooms,  $18  to  $35.  Pro- 
prietor, U.  E.  Terwilliger,  Ellenville,  Ulster  covmty,  N.  Y. 


GREENFIELD — Windsor  L.\ke  House. — Five  miles  by  stage 
from  Ellenville  and  about  three  and  a  half  hours  from  New  York ; 
one  hundred  and  twenty  acres  of  mountain  land,  with  fifty  acres 
under  cultivation  ;  elevation  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  over- 
looking the  lake  ;  rebuilt  and  enlarged  since  last  season  ;  all  mod- 
em improvements,  large  parlors,  broad  halls,  wide  stairs ;  baths 
with  hot  and  cold  water  on  every  floor ;  sanitary  plumbing ;  open 
fire-places ;  broad  piazzas  and  balconies ;  pure  water  from  a  moun- 
tain spring ;  table  .supplied  from  the  farms ;  an  extensive  lawn, 
with  lawn  tennis,  archery  and  croquet  grounds ;  billiards  and  bowl- 
ing ;  stages  to  and  from  depot ;  good  livery ;  receives  two  hun- 
dred guests.  Open  June  15  to  October  i.  Prices : — By  the  day, 
for  June,  September  and  October,  $2  ;  for  July  and  August,  $2.50 ; 
by  the  week,  single  rooms,  $10  to  $15;  double  rooms,  $16  to  $25; 
special  rates  to  families,  or  for  the  season.  Address  Greenfield, 
Ulster  county,  N.  Y. 


SC/AfMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  297 

LIBERTY— Hotel  Wawonda. — Situated  on  an  elevation  over- 
looking Liberty  village ;  two  thousand  feet  above  sea  level ;  one  mile 
from  station ;  wide  verandas  and  private  balconies ;  bath-rooms, 
gas.  electric  bells  and  all  the  conveniences  and  elegancies  of  first- 
class  hotels ;  receives  two  hundred  guests. 


THE  CATSKILL  REGION. 


The  most  easterly  range  of  the  Catskill  Mountains  lies  ten  miles 
west  of  the  Hudson  river,  and  runs  parallel  with  it  for  a  distance  of 
twenty  miles,  its  southern  limit  being  about  ninety  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river.  The  width  of  the  Catskill  Mountain  region  is 
about  seventy-five  miles.  It  is  drained  on  the  west  by  the  head- 
waters of  the  Delaware  river,  and  by  the  Schoharie  creek,  which 
runs  in  a  northwesterly  direction  to  the  Mohawk.  It  includes  por- 
tions of  Greene,  Ulster  and  Delaware  counties.  The  mountains 
are  approached  from  Rondout  on  the  Hudson,  eighty-eight  miles 
from  New  York,  and  from  Catskill  on  the  Hudson,  one  hundred 
and  nine  miles.  From  Rondout  the  Ulster  and  Delaware  Railroad 
penetrates  the  mountain  region  in  a  northwesterly  direction  to 
Hobart,  seventy-eight  miles.  At  Phoenicia,  on  this  road,  a  branch 
of  fourteen  miles,  called  the  Stony  Clove  Railroad,  extends  to  Hun- 
ter on  Schoharie  creek,  and  by  means  of  a  minor  branch  of  four 
miles  g^ves  approach  to  the  Kaaterskill  House  and  other  large 
hotels  of  the  range  that  faces  the  Hudson.  These  hotels  are  also 
approached  by  the  Catskill  Mountain  Railroad,  which  runs  from 
Catskill  Landing  to  Cairo,  a  branch  running  southward  from 
Cairo  Junction  to  Palenville,  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  range, 
whence  an  Otis  elevating  railroad  has  been  laid  up  the  mountain, 
giving  direct  access  to  the  old  Catskill  Mountain  House.  Rondout 
and  Catskill,  the  two  points  of  departure  for  the  mountains,  are 
accessible  by  the  West  Shore  road  (Franklin  street  and  West  Forty- 
second  street)  ;  or  by  ferry  from  stations  on  the  Hudson  River  road  ; 
or  by  Albany  day  boats,  leaving  Vestry  street  at  half-past  eight, 
and  Twenty-second  street  at  nine  A.  M. 


JEFFERSON  HEIGHTS— Grant  House.— On  a  plateau  three 
hundred  feet  high,  one  mile  from  Catskill  village  and  the  West  Shore 
station,  the  \-iew  embracing  the  valleys  of  the  Catskill  and  Kaater- 


298  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

skill,  Catskill  Mountains  and  the  Hudson  valley ;  electric  bells,  gas, 
hot  and  cold  water  baths  on  every  floor ;  billiards  and  bowling ;  a 
pleasure  ground  of  thirty  acres  sloping  down  to  the  creek ;  orches- 
tral concerts  twice  a  day  and  for  the  dance  in  the  evening ;  re- 
ceives three  hundred  guests.  Open  May  30  until  late  in  September. 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3 ;  by  the  week,  single  rooms,  $12  to  $20 ; 
double  rooms,  $20  to  $30 ;  special  rates  for  the  season.  Reduced 
rates  for  June. 


SUMMIT  MT.— The  New  Grand  Hotel.— On  Summit  Mountain, 
at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet ;  a  few  minutes' 
walk  from  the  station,  on  the  Ulsler  and  Delaware  Railroad,  thirty- 
eight  miles  from  Rondout ;  through  parlor  cars  by  the  West  Shore 
Road ;  four  and  a  half  hours  from  New  York ;  surroundings  include 
Old  Storm  King  (four  thousand  feet),  the  Slide,  the  Wittenberg 
and  the  Cornell,  inclosing  Big  Indian  Valley ;  in  Queen  Anne 
style,  with  frontage  of  six  hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  wide  verandas, 
palatial  salon  ;  bedrooms,  17  x  19  feet,  with  ample  wardrobes ; 
suites  with  private  baths ;  dining-room  with  mountain  view  on 
two  sides ;  elevators,  steam  heat,  electric  bells ;  orchestral  con- 
certs twice  daily ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open  June  to 
October.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $5.00;  by  the  week,  single  rooms, 
$21  to  $28;  double  rooms,  $42  to  $60;  special  rates  for  suites  of 
rooms  with  private  bath ;  rates  reduced  for  July.  Manager,  S.  J. 
Cornell. 

SOUTH  MOUNTAIN— Hotel  Kaaterskill.— On  the  summit  of 
Kaaterskill  (South  Mountain),  at  an  elevation  of  three  thousand 
feet,  commanding  the  view  of  the  Hudson  river  valley  ;  drive  of  a 
few  minutes  from  Kaaterskill  station  on  the  Kaaterskill  branch  of 
the  Stony  Clove  Railroad ;  gas,  elevators,  electric  bells,  steam 
heat ;  baths  on  every  floor ;  suites  with  private  baths ;  ball-room, 
with  stage  appointments ;  orchestral  music ;  billiard  room, 
bowling-alley ;  separate  cottage  building  for  invalids  and  families 
desiring  seclusion  and  quiet ;  telegraph ;  livery  with  good  saddle 
horses.  Prices  in  July,  by  the  week  $21  and  upwards.  Address, 
Kaaterskill  P.  O.,  N.  V 

KAATERSKILL  FALLS— Laurel  House.— At  the  head  of  the 
cascades,  one  of  which  is  a  fall  of  two  hundred  feet ;  within  three 
hundred  yards  of  the  Laurel  House  station  on  the  Kaaterskill 
branch  of  the  Stony  Clove  Road ;  hotel  stage  meets  all  trains  at 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  299 

the  station,  also  at  the  Palenville  station  on  the  Catskill  Mountain 
Railroad  from  Catskill  village ;  verandas  six  hundred  feet  in 
length  ;  gas,  electric  bells ;  bath-rooms  on  every  floor ;  pure  spring 
water ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Open  from  June  15  to 
October  i. 


CATSKILL  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE— Short  stage  drive  from 
Mountain  House  station  on  the  railway  from  Catskill  village,  or  di- 
rectly accessible  by  the  new  Elevating  Railroad  from  the  foot  of  the 
Mountain ;  on  a  ledge  of  rock  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  the  view  bounded  by  the  Hudson  Highlands 
on  the  south,  the  Berkshire  Hills  and  Green  Mountains  on  the  east, 
and  the  Adirondacks  on  the  north  ;  park  of  three  thousand  acres 
intersected  by  drives  and  footpaths ;  water  from  mountain  springs  ; 
bath-rooms,  approved  plumbing;  receives  four  hundred  guests. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $4  ;  by  the  week,  $14  to  $24,  according  to  the 
season ;  special  rates  for  a  prolonged  stay.  Proprietors,  Catskill 
Mountain  House  Co.,  Catskill,  N.  Y. 


IV. 

OTSEGO  LAKE  REGION. 


This  highland,  which  forms  the  watershed  of  the  Susquehanna, 
lies  west  of  the  Catskill  region  and  has  an  elevation  of  1,200  to 
1,700  feet,  being  the  highest  plateau  in  the  State  of  New  York,  ex- 
cept that  crossed  by  the  Adirondack  ranges.  The  surface  is 
picturesquely  broken  up  into  hills  of  moderate  elevation.  At  the 
northern  limit  lies  Lake  Canadarago,  at  the  southern  Lake  Otsego. 
The  latter,  to  which  the  surrounding  hills  give  a  varied  and  beau- 
tiful shore  line,  is  nine  miles  long  and  from  one  to  one  and  one- 
half  wide.  Cooperstown,  which  derives  its  name  from  the  novelist 
whose  "  Leather  Stocking  "  tales  have  given  the  place  celebrity, 
lies  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake  and  is  ninety-one  miles  from 
Albany,  from  which  it  is  reached  by  the  Susquehanna  division  of 
the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  railway  and  Cooperstown 
branch  without  change. — Lake  Canadarago,  fivemileslongbytwoin 
width,  lies  fourteen  miles  northwest  of  Lake  Otsego,  at  an  eleva- 
titm  of  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet,  amid  an  environment  of 
wooded  hills.  Richfield  Springs,  one  mile  from  the  lake,  is  reached 
by  the  New  York  Central  railroad  to  Utica,  thence  by  the  Delaware, 


300  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

Lackawanna  and  Western  railway  to  Richfield  Junction,  thence  by 
branch  road,  without  change.  A  four-horse  tally-ho  coach  makes 
daily  trips  between  Cooperstown  and  Richfield  Springs. 


RICHFIELD  SPRINGS  — Hotel  Earlington.  — Delightfully 
situated,  with  charming  outlook  over  park ;  large  rooms,  single  and 
en  suite ;  large  open  fire-places  in  the  ladies'  parlor  and  grand  hall ; 
elevator,  cafe  and  ladies'  and  gentlemen's  billiard-room ;  bowling 
alley  and  shooting  gallery  ;  shaded  tennis  courts  ;  electric  bells, 
gas,  new  sanitary  plumbing  throughout ;  bath-rooms  on  each  floor  ; 
Stubblebine's  orchestra  of  twelve  pieces  ;  branch  of  Dickel  riding 
school ;  superior  stabling  accomn^dations ;  elaborate  cuisine  and 
thoroughly  disciplined  service  ;  the  four-horse  coach  "  Earlington  " 
makes  the  circuit  of  the  lake  every  afternoon  ;  receives  five  hundred 
guests.  Open  June  30  to  September  15.  Prices : — By  the  day, 
for  transient  guests,  $4.  Owner  and  manager,  Eugene  M.  Earle, 
who  may  be  seen  at  the  Hotel  Bristol,  Fifth  avenue  and  Forty- 
second  street,  New  York. 


RICHFIELD  SPRINGS— Davenport  House.— On  high  ground 
opposite  the  Sulphur  Spring  and  the  bath  house,  its  front  rcoms  over- 
looking the  park;  broad  veranda,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
length,  shaded  by  elms  and  maples  ;  electric  bells  ;  thorough  drain- 
age ;  servants'  quarters  in  a  separate  building  ;  receives  two  hun- 
dred guests.  Open  June  i  to  October  1.  Special  rates  for  June  and 
September.     Address  Richfield  Springs,  Otsego  County,  N.  Y. 


SHARON  SPRINGS— Pavilion  Hotel.— In  an  upland  valley, 
elevation  one  thousand  one  hundred  feet,  surrounded  by  hills ;  on  a 
branch  of  the  Albany  and  Susquehanna  railroad ;  famous  for  its 
sulphur  springs,  for  the  utilization  of  whose  water  extensive  bath- 
ing houses  have  been  erected  with  everj'  appliance  for  inhalation, 
douches,  etc.,  under  medical  direction.  The  Pavilion  Hotel  is  the 
largest  in  the  place  and  consists  of  a  main  building  and  several 
groups  of  cottages,  in  ornamented  grounds  of  fifty  acres,  command- 
ing a  view  extending  beyond  the  Mohawk  valley  to  the  hills  around 
Lake  George,  eighty  miles  distant ;  plans  and  appointments  es- 
pecially adapted  to  families  with  young  children  ;  detached  play- 
house for  children  ;  separate  bowling  and  billiard  hall  exclusively 
for  guests  ;    afternoon  and  evening  concerts  ;   cottages  and  cottage 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  301 

flats  at  fixed  rental;  baths,  bells,  etc.,  throughout;  receives  five 
hundred  guests.  Prices : — By  the  week,  $15  to  $21.  Proprietors, 
John  H.  Gardner  &  Son.  Sharon  Springes,  N.  Y. 


SHARON  SPRINGS— Sharon  House.— On  Main  street,  facing 
the  Sulphur  Baths,  and  commanding  a  view  of  the  adjacent  forests ; 
during  the  winter  the  house  has  been  thoroughly  renovated,  and 
new  furniture  and  new  mattresses  have  been  added  ;  good  livery 
in  connection  with  the  hotel ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $2.50 ;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $16.  Proprietor, 
Thomas  K.  Sharp. 


V. 

CENTRAL  LAKES,  N.  Y.— NIAGARA. 


The  Lakes  of  Central  New  York,  having  a  general  direction 
north  and  south,  lie  in  the  valleys  of  the  hills  that  form  the  exten- 
sion of  the  mountains  of  Western  Pennsylvania.  Their  waters 
flow  northward,  and  are  tributary  to  the  Seneca  River,  which 
empties  into  Lake  Ontario  at  Oswego.  Skaneateles,  the  most  easterly 
of  these  lakes,  lies  at  an  elevation  of  eight  hundred  and  sixty-five 
feet  above  the  sea  level ;  Canandaigua,  the  most  westerly,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  six  hundred  and  sixty-eight  feet.  Between  these  lie  Owasco 
(seven  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet),  Cayuga  and  Seneca  (four  hun- 
dred and  forty-one  feet),  and  Keuka  (seven  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet).  The  region  abounds  in  precipitous  water  courses  and  glens, 
famous  among  which  isWatkins  Glen,  an  ascending  series  of  gorges 
between  two  mountains,  thirteen  miles  in  length,  situated  at  the  head 
or  southern  limit  of  Seneca  Lake. 


LAKE  SKANEATELES— The  Packwood,— Delightfully  situ- 
ated on  shore  of  Skaneateles  lake  ;  two  steamers  on  lake  ;  sailing, 
rowing  and  fishmg ;  good  livery  and  beautiful  drives ;  house  in  per- 
fect sanitary  condition.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $2 ;  special  rates  to 
families. 


NIAGARA  FALLS — Clifton  House.— On  the  Canada  bank, 
fronting  the  park  reservations,  all  the  rooms  and  balconies  affording 
full  view  of  the  falls ;  appointments  and  management  of  the  first 


892  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

order ;  perfect  drainage ;  air  cooled  by  the  spray  of  the  falls ;  hotel 
stages  and  porters  meet  aU  trains  at  Niagara  Falls  station  on  the 
American  side ;  receives  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Prices : — 
By  the  day,  $3  to  $4 ;  by  the  week,  special  rates.  Proprietor,  G. 
M.  Colbum,  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 


VI. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


The  most  frequented  inland  resort  in  America.  Its  season  lasts 
from  June  to  October.  The  village  has  a  population  of  about 
twelve  thousand,  but  in  the  height  of  the  season  it  adds  to  this 
number  not  less  than  thirty  thousand  visitors.  It  is  one  hundred 
and  eighty-two  miles  north  of  New  York,  and  is  reached  by  the 
West  Shore  or  the  Hudson  River  railroads  to  Albany,  thence  by 
Saratoga  and  Champlain  division  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson 
Canal  Company's  Railroad,  without  change ;  or  by  boat  to  Albany, 
thence  as  above. 


UNITED  STATES  HOTEL.— Built  in  the  form  of  an  irregular 
pentagon,  enclosing  an  inner  court  and  including  in  all  an  area  of 
seven  acres ;  six  stories  high,  with  nine  hundred  and  seventeen  guest 
chambers  ;  divided  into  five  sections  by  fire-proof  walls ;  fire  hy- 
drants in  each  section  and  on  every  floor ;  ten  staircases ;  two 
elevators ;  dining-room,  212  feet  by  52  feet ;  ball-room,  102  feet  by 
53  feet,  26  feet  in  height ;  verandas  in  all  2,300  feet  in  length,  en- 
circling the  inner  court,  where  are  shade  trees,  fountains,  statuary, 
winding  walks,  and  where  grand  morning  concerts  are  given  by 
Stub's  orchestra ;  a  "  cottage  wing"  arranged  in  suites  for  families ; 
with  private  bath-rooms ;  private  table  when  desired.  Open  from 
June  22 ;  always  remains  open  to  October  1.  Prices : — By  the  day, 
$5,  favorable  arrangements  with  families  by  the  week  up  to  August 
I.    Proprietors,  Tompkins  Gage  &  Perry. 


GRAND  UNION  HOTEL.— One  of  the  most  magnificent  of  sum- 
mer hotels,  with  a  frontage  of  two  thousand  four  hundred  feet ;  built 
about  a  central  court  which  is  beautifully  laid  out ;  the  rotunda, 
into  which  the  main  entrance  leads,  is  eighty  feet  in  diameter  and 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  303 

rises  to  the  top  of  the  building  with  balconies  at  each  of  the  five 
stories ;  to  the  left  are  reception-rooms  and  the  grand  salon,  noted 
for  the  beauty  of  its  decorations  and  furnishings ;  in  the  g^eat 
dining-room  one  thousand  guests  may  be  seated  ;  *a  beautiful  ball- 
room ;  three  elevators  and  broad  stairways ;  every  convenience 
and  luxury  of  appointment  that  modem  ingenuity  has  devised. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $s  and  upwards ;  special  rates  for  September 
and  by  the  season. 


WINDSOR  HOTEL.— Central,  but  retired,  on  the  brow  of  the  hill, 
overlooking  Congress  Park,  fronting  on  Broadway  and  William 
street,  adjacent  to  the  famous  Pompeian  Villa ;  a  select  family 
house,  having  in  the  quiet  elegance  of  all  its  appointments  more 
the  character  of  a  private  home  than  of  a  public  hotel ;  rooms 
single  and  in  suites  with  private  bath  ;  scientific  plumbing ;  steam 
beat ;  electric  lights  and  bells ;  wide  balconies  to  every  floor ; 
choice  cuisine  and  refined  service  ;  servants  exclusively  white ;  late 
dinners.    Prices : — By  the  day,  $s  and  upwards. 


CONGRESS  HALL.— On  Broadway,  adjoining  Congress  Park 
occupying  the  block  between  the  Congress  and  Hathom  springs ; 
fa9ade  four  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  length  ;  veranda  twenty 
feet  wide,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long ;  five  stories  in  height ; 
commanding  a  view  of  the  most  brilliant  portion  of  Saratoga  ;  two 
wings,  three  hundred  feet  long,  enclosing  a  beautiful  garden  ;  sub- 
stantially built  of  brick  and  stone  in  seven  fire-proof  compartments, 
with  heavy  iron  doors  on  each  floor ;  elevators,  gas,  hot  and  cold 
water;  bath-rooms  on  every  floor;  water  from  springs  on  the 
grounds ;  separate  concert  and  ball-room,  connected  with  the  house 
by  a  suspension  bridge ;  daily  morning  and  evening  full  orchestral 
concerts ;  serai-weekly  hops ;  receives  several  hundred  gfuests. 
Open  June  to  October  i.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3,  $3.50  and 
$4;  special  rates  by  the  week. 


DR.  S.  E.  STRONG'S  SANITARIUM.— On  Circular  street, 
within  a  few  steps  of  the  principal  springy,  hotels  and  the  park ;  ex- 
tensive improvements  made  recently,  including  a  decorated  recep- 
tion hall,  electric  bells,  a  passenger  elevator,  leading  to  a  sun  parlor, 
which  opens  out  upon  a  roof  promenade  ;  steam  heat  and  open  fire- 
place, making  it  specially  attractive  to  the  delicate  and  valetudina- 


304  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

rian  ;  massage,  Turkish,  Russian,  Roman,  electrothermal  and  other 
baths,  as  well  as  the  usual  appointments  of  first-class  hotels; 
spacious  parlors,  in  which  musical  and  other  entertainments  are 
given ;  Delsarte  system  of  physical  culture ;  gymnasium  and 
spacious  verandas ;  frequented  by  a  cultivated  circle.  Open  all 
the  year.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2  to  $2.50;  by  the  week,  $10  to 
$15 ;  ten  per  cent,  discount  to  clergAinen  and  physicians.  Pro- 
prietor, Dr.  S.  E.  Strong. 


MT.  McGregor — Hotel  Balmoral. — On  the  southernmost 
spur  of  the  Adirondack  Moiintains,  ten  and  one-half  miles  from  Sara- 
toga, from  which  it  is  reached  by  trains  every  hour ;  elevation  one 
thousand  three  hundred  feet ;  all  mbdem  improvements  ;  open  fire- 
places ;  verandas  twenty  to  forty  feet  wide ;  billiards,  bowling 
alley,  art  gallery ;  waters  brought  daily  from  the  Saratoga  springs ; 
three  lakes  stocked  with  fish  and  supplied  with  boats ;  telegraph 
office  and  daily  stock  quotations ;  free  passes  to  and  from  Saratoga 
to  hotel  gfuests ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 


VII. 

LAKE  GEORGE  REGION. 


Lake  George,  or  the  Horicon,  famous  for  the  beauty  of  its  envi- 
ronment, lies  on  the  southeastern  border  of  the  Adirondack 
region,  in  the  midst  of  wooded  hills,  with  mountains  in  the  dis- 
tance. Is  thirty-six  miles  long,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  four 
miles  wide,  and  in  places  four  hundred  feet  deep.  Its  waters,  flow- 
mg  northward  into  Lake  Champlain,  ^^-e  tributary  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Caldwell,  a  small  town  at  its  head  or  southern  extremity, 
is  reached  from  Albany  by  the  Saratoga  line  of  the  Delaware  and 
Hudson  Canal  Company's  railroad.  Baldwin,  at  the  north  end,  is 
reached  from  Fort  Ticonderoga  on  Lake  Champlain  by  a  branch 
of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Company's  railroad.  Steam- 
boats ply  between  Caldwell  and  Baldwin,  making  two  trips  a  day. 

For  routes  see  preceding  chapter. 


LAKE  GEORGE— Port  William  Henry  Hotel. — A  house  of 
large  proportions  and  fine  appointments,  with  porticoes  affording 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  805 

views  of  the  lake  and  the  mountains ;  recent  improvements  include 
new  docks  and  swimming  baths,  tennis  grounds ;  new  bowling-alley 
and  billiard-tables,  elevator,  new  dining  room,  new  cottages ;  electric 
lights,  etc.;  water  from  mountain  springs;  perfect  drainage;  full 
orchestra ;  choice  cuisine.  Special  rates  for  families.  Proprietor 
and  manager,  Wm.  Noble.  New  York  office,  Hotel  Grenoble, 
Fifty-seventh  street  and  Seventh  avenue. 


LAKE  GEORGE — The  Sagamork.— On  Green  Island,  a  wooded 
island  of  about  seventy-five  acres,  off  the  west  shore,  ten  miles 
north  of  Caldwell,  connected  by  a  bridge  with  the  mainland  ;  built 
a  few  years  ago  and  having  the  picturesque  look  of  a  cottage-like 
grouping  of  buildings,  or  a  rambling  old  English  manor  house ; 
large  music  hall  and  ball-room  connected  with  the  main  building ; 
Edison  electric  lights,  electric  bells,  elevator ;  water  from  mountain 
springs ;  tennis  grounds ;  billiard-room  ;  bowling ;  sail  and  row 
boats,  steam  yacht,  horses  and  carriages  ;  telegraph  office ;  steamer 
from  Caldwell  on  arrival  of  evening  train  ;  receives  four  hundred 
guests.  Open  June  to  October  i.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the 
week,  $17.50  to  $25  ;  reduced  rates  from  June  i  to  June  20 ;  special 
rates  for  the  season.  Proprietor,  Myron  O.  Brown,  Bolton  Land- 
ing, Lake  George,  N.  Y. 


LAKE  GEORGE — M.\rion  House.— On  the  west  shore,  six  miles 
from  Caldwell,  three  hundred  feet  from  the  lake,  the  grounds  ex- 
tending to  the  shore ;  surrounded  by  a  grove ;  wide  verandas ; 
billiard-room,  tennis  ground,  steam  yacht  and  boats ;  gas,  electric 
bells,  elevator  ;  orchestral  music  morning  and  evening ;  telegraph 
office  ;  livery ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — By  the 
week,  $14  to  $25. 


LAKE  GEORGE— Pearl  Point  House.— A  steamboat  landing 
on  the  east  shore,  twelve  miles  from  Caldwell,  in  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  parts  of  the  lake  ;  all  steamers  land  at  the  wharf ;  large 
fleet  of  sail  and  row  boats ;  vegetables  and  dairy  products  from 
hotel  farm ;  telegraph  office ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty 
guests.  Open  in  June.  Prices :  By  the  day,  $3.50 ;  by  the  week. 
$12  to  $ao. 


306  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

VIII. 

ADIRONDACK  REGION— THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


The  massif  of  the  Adirondack  region  has  a  general  elevation  of 
one  thousand  five  hundred  to  two  thousand  feet,  and  an  extent  of 
about  fifteen  thousand  square  miles.  It  is  crossed  by  five  mountain 
ranges.  The  number  of  peaks  is  said  to  be  five  hundred,  the 
highest  of  which,  Moimt  Marcy,  rises  five  thousand  three  hundred 
and  thirty-seven  feet  above  the  sea  level.  In  the  valleys  there  are 
more  than  one  thousand  lakes,  variously  connected  by  streams, 
whose  waters  feed  Lake  Champlain,  the  St.  Lawrence  or  the 
Hudson.  Being  thus  drained  and  intersected  by  watercourses  on 
every  side,  it  is  a  region  of  a  peculim-ly  wild  and  broken  character. 
It  may  be  entered  from  the  east  by  stage  routes  from  Westport, 
Port  Kent  and  Plattsburg — stations  on  the  Champlain  division  of 
the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Company's  railways,  a  branch  of 
which  extends  from  Plattsburg  to  Ausable  in  the  mountains.  From 
the  south  and  west  it  is  entered  by  the  Adirondack  division  of  the 
same  road,  which  runs  northward  from  Saratoga  to  North  Creek 
(fifty-seven  miles),  and  when  completed  will  extend  to  Ogdensburg, 
on  the  St.  Lawrence.  At  North  Creek  stages  connect  with  Blue 
Mountain  Lake  and  with  the  Long  Lake  and  Raquette  Lake 
region.  An  intermediate  route  is  that  by  the  way  of  Schroon  Lake. 
— Schroon  Lake  is  ten  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide,  and  is  bor- 
dered on  the  North  by  lofty  summits  ;  it  is  reached  by  a  stage  drive 
of  six  miles  from  Riverside  station  on  the  Saratoga  and  Adiron- 
dack railroad.  From  Pottersville,  the  terminus  of  the  stage  route, 
steamers  ply  to  Schroon  village  and  other  points  on  the  lake. — The 
Lake  of  Luzerne,  on  the  southern  limits  of  the  Adirondack  high- 
land, lies  at  the  junction  of  the  upper  Hudson  and  the  Sacondaga 
Rivers,  at  an  elevation  of  seven  hundred  feet ;  it  is  twenty-two 
miles  north  of  Saratoga,  from  which  it  is  reached  by  the  Saratoga 
and  Adirondack  railroad  (Hadley  station).— The  "Thousand  Is- 
lands "  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River  extend  from  Cape  Vincent  at 
the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario  to  Ogdensburg,  a  distance  of  forty  miles. 
Alexandria  Bay,  midway  between  these  points,  is  accessible  by 
steamer  from  Cape  Vincent,  to  which  the  New  York,  Ontario  and 
Western  railway  (Franklin  and  West  Forty-second  streets)  run 
Pullman  sleepers  without  change  ;  or  by  steamers  plying  between 
Clayton  and  Ogdensburg,  the  termini  of  the  Utica  and  Black 
River  railroad,  which  connects  at  Utica  with  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral. From  Rome  on  the  latter  road  branches  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  and  Ogdensburg  railroad. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  307 

SCHROON  LAKE — Leland  House  and  Cottages. — At  Schroon 
Lake  village,  near  the  head  of  the  lake,  with  view  of  the  lake  and  the 
neighboring  mountains ;  verandas  three  hundred  and  forty-six  feet 
in  length,  and  an  observatory  one  hundred  and  seven  feet  high ; 
two  cottages  of  twelve  rooms  each  ;  grounds,  extending  to  the  lake, 
shaded  with  evergreens ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Open  from  June  15  to  October  i.  Prices  :— By  the  day,  $3  to  $3.50 ; 
by  the  week,  $12.50  to  $21 ;  special  rates  by  the  season. 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY— Hotel  Westminster.— In  Westminster 
Park,  comprising  two  hundred  and  twelve  acres  of  land,  at  eastern 
end  of  Wells  Island  ;  park  nearly  two  miles  in  length,  lying  among 
the  One  Thousand  Islands,  in  front  of  and  only  one-half  mile  distant 
from  Alexandria  Bay ;  reached  by  ferry  every  hour ;  commanding 
views  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River ;  pure  and  bracing  air ;  sloping 
green  lawns  planted  with  forest  trees ;  sandy  beaches  for  bathing  ; 
spacious  verandas ;  house  fully  equipped  with  all  modern  appli- 
ances ;  electric  bells ;  baths ;  telegraph  ;  fine  orchestra ;  dancing. 
Open  June  i  to  October  i.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2  to  $3 ;  by  the 
week,  $12  to  $17.  Special  rates  to  families  and  parties.  Address, 
Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y. 


LOWER  SARANAC  LAKE— The  Ampersand.— One  mile  from 
the  village,  which  is  accessible  by  the  Chateaugay  Railroad  from 
Plattsburg  on  Lake  Champlain — time  from  New  York  fourteen 
miles ;  the  hotel,  built  primarily  for  winter  guests,  is  on  a  slope, 
amid  pines,  hemlocks  and  balsams,  and  its  verandas,  which  in 
winter  are  enclosed  in  glass,  command  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
lake  and  surrounding  mountains ;  large  annex  building  and  cottages 
recently  erected  ;  tents  and  other  provision  made  for  day  camps ; 
heated  with  steam  and  lighted  with  gas ;  two  large  fire-places  in  the 
main  office ;  large  and  elegant  public  and  private  dining-rooms ; 
ladies'  billiard  parlor ;  elevator ;  table  supplied  from  farm  with 
fresh  milk,  eggs  and  vegetables  ;  receives  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  guests.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices :— By  the  day,  $3  to  $5. 
Managers,  Eaton  &  Young,  Ampersand,  Franklin  county,  N.  Y. 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY— Thousand  Island  House.— A  "  summer 
palace,"  with  lofty  porticos  on  three  sides,  thirteen  feet  in  width, 
commanding  beautiful  views  of  river  and  Islands ;  central  tower 


308  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high  ;  dining-room  loo  by  40  feet  and 
27  feet  high  ;  grand  saloon  and  reception  rooms ;  gas,  electric  bells, 
elevators ;  bowling  alleys  and  billiard  rooms ;  fleet  of  boats  ;  ex- 
cursions among  the  islands  twice  daily  by  a  small  steamer ;  orches- 
tral music ;  daily  telegraphic  stock  reports ;  receives  four  hundred 
guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $17.50  to  $28 ;  re- 
duced rates. 


THOUSAND  ISLANDS— The  Frontenac— On  Round  Island, 
in  the  American  channel,  one  mile  below  the  Clayton  Railroad 
terminus,  steamboats  connecting  with  all  trains ;  one  mile  long  and 
about  one-fourth  in  width,  rising  aradually  to  the  centre,  where  a 
public  lawn  is  laid  out ;  irregulaf  shore  line,  skirted  with  woods ; 
hotel  on  the  highest  point :  veranda  of  seven  hundred  feet ;  ob- 
servatory one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  offering  an  extensive 
view  of  river  and  islands ;  elevator ;  gas,  electric  bells,  steam  heat ; 
orchestral  music  ;  boats  and  oarsmen  ;  daily  excursions  among  the 
islands ;  post  and  telegraph  offices ;  receives  three  himdred  and 
fifty  guests.     Address.  Frontenac,  Jefferson  county,  N.  Y. 


LAKE  MASSAWEPIE— Childwolu  Park  House  and  Cot- 
tages.— Childwold  Park  consists  of  about  five  thousand  acres,  in- 
cluding Lake  Massawepie  and  five  charming  lakelets ;  five  miles  b> 
stage  from  Childwold  station  on  new  Adirondack  and  St.  Lawrence 
Railroad,  which  branches  at  Herkimer  from  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral ;  through  vestibuled  trains  from  Grand  Central  depot  without 
change  ;  hotel  erected  recently  now  enlarged  ;  in  a  grove  of  forest 
trees  between  two  lakes,  and  commanding  an  uninterrupted  view 
of  Lake  Massawepie  ;  three  Queen  Ann  cottages  on  the  lake  to  rent 
by  the  month  or  season ;  canoes  and  experienced  guides ;  deer, 
trout  and  bass  ;  picturesque  rambles  and  drives  within  the  park ; 
well-equipped  livery ;  medical  attendance ;  telegraph  and  daily 
mails ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Open  in  June. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $3  to  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $21 ;  special 
rates  for  season. 


BLUFF  POINT — Hotel  Cham  plain. — A  commanding  promon- 
tory on  the  west  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  separating  the  valley  of 
the  Salmon  River  from  the  lake ;  three  miles  south  of  Plattsburg ; 
upon  a  broad  plateau,  which  has  been  cleared  in  the  primitive 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.  309 

forest,  reached  by  a  winding  pike  road  from  Bluff  Point  station  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill ;  the  outlook  embraces  nearly  a  thousand  square 
miles  of  valley,  lake  and  mountain  ;  westward  and  southward  the 
ranges  of  the  Adirondacks,  eastward  the  lake  with  its  bays  and 
islands  with  the  mountains  beyond  ;  varied  means  of  diversion  are 
offered — steamboat  and  sailboat  excursions  on  the  lake,  excursions 
by  local  railway  trains,  delightful  rambles,  horseback  trips,  the 
hunting  and  fishing  grounds  of  the  Adirondacks  within  a  day's 
outing ;  billiard  tables  and  bowling  alleys  in  a  separate  building. 
Manager,  O.  D.  Seavey.  Address,  Hotel  Champlain,  P.  O..  Clinton 
county,  N.  Y. 

SARANAC  LAKE — Saranac  Lake  House. — On  the  Lower  Sar- 
anac,  one  mile  by  stage  from  Miller's  station  on  the  Chateaugay  Rail- 
road ;  elevation  two  thousand  feet ;  lake  is  stocked  with  fish  ;  on 
the  borders  of  a  forest  stretching  for  miles  in  all  directions  ;  large 
rooms  in  suites  of  two  to  six ;  open  fire-places  in  parlors,  oflSce  and 
dining-room  ;  electric  bells ;  wide  verandas  nearly  one  thousand 
feet  in  length ;  bowling  and  billiards ;  camping  equipments  at 
moderate  prices ;  telegraph  and  daily  mail ;  fresh  vegetables,  milk, 
butter,  etc. ,  from  farm ;  livery  stables ;  receives  three  hundred 
guests.  Open  May  i  to  November  i.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $3  to 
$4 ;  special  rates  for  a  prolonged  stay. 


LAKE  LUZERNE — Wayside  Inn  and  Cottages. — On  a  plateau 
bordering  the  lake  ;  elevation  above  tide  water  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  feet ;  picturesque  house  in  Swiss  cottage  style  ;  ornamented 
gfrounds  of  twenty  acres  with  tennis  court ;  fifty  boats  on  the  lake  ; 
livery  and  boarding  stables.  Open  June  to  October  i.  Prices: — 
By  the  day,  $3.50  and  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $21  to  $28 ;  ten  furnished 
cottages,  rented  at  $200  to  $1,000  for  the  season  ;  supplied  in  whole 
or  in  part  from  the  hotel  table  ;  table  board  for  cottagers,  $14  per 
week ;  special  rates  for  September ;  connection  by  telephone. 


TRENTON  FALLS — Moore's  Hotel. — Eighteen  miles  north  of 
Utica ;  direct  connections  from  New  York  by  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  and  Ogdensburgh  Railroad ;  the  new  Adirondack  railroad 
crosses  the  ravine,  only  a  mile  from  the  hotel ;  five  cascades,  mak- 
ing a  total  fall  of  two  hundred  feet,  in  a  ravine  remarkable  for  pic- 
turesque grandeur.     "The  river,"  said  the  poet  Willis,  "in  the 


.810  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

heart  of  that  fearful  chasm  is  the  most  varied  and  beautiful  assem- 
blage of  the  thousand  forms  and  shapes  of  running  water  I  have  ever 
seen."  Hotel  appointments  include  a  large  library  and  valuable 
pictures.  Open  May  to  October.  Prices :— By  the  day,  $3  to 
$3-50 ;  by  the  week,  $14  to  $20.    Special  rates  by  the  month. 


THE  BELCEIL  MTS.,  CANADA— Iroquois  House.— Two  and 
a  half  miles  from  St.  Hilaire  station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway, 
twenty-two  miles  from  Montreal ;  hotel  carriages  meet  all  trains ; 
hotel  stands  on  a  table  rock  at  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  six 
hundred  feet,  commanding  an  extensive  and  varied  view ;  adjacent 
to  a  mountain  lake  three  miles  in  circumference,  affording  fishing, 
bathing  and  boating ;  large  bath-houses  supplied  by  a  stream  of 
water  from  the  lake ;  grounds  of  practically  unlimited  extent,  pic- 
turesquely varied ;  billiards,  bowling-alley ;  livery  at  moderate 
rates ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open  from  May  to  Septem- 
ber. Prices :— By  the  day,  $2  to  $3 ;  by  the  week,  $10  to  $17. 
Address,  St.  Hilaire,  P.  Q.,  Canada. 


IX. 

GREEN  MOUNTAIN  REGION. 


The  Green  Mountains  are  the  most  northerly  extension  of  the 
ranges  of  which  the  Berkshire  Hills  of  Massachusetts,  the  Litch- 
field Hills  of  Connecticut  and  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson  form 
part.  They  run  about  midway  between  the  Connecticut  River  on 
the  east  and  the  valley  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Hudson  on  the 
west,  and  with  their  foothills  and  spurs,  give  picturesque  character 
to  the  entire  State  which  derives  from  them  its  name.  The  high- 
est summits  are  Mount  Mansfield  (four  thousand  three  hundred  and 
forty-eight  feet).  Camel's  Hump  (four  thousand  one  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  feet),  Killington  Peak  (three  thousand  nine  hundred 
and  twenty-four  feet),  and  Ascutney  (three  thousand  three  hundred 
and  twenty  feet). 


MANCHESTER— EyuiNox  House.— A  beautiful  village  on  the 
Bennington  and  Rutland  Railway,  thirty  miles  south  of  Rutland, 
in  a  valley  three  miles  wide,  with  the  Green  Mountains  on  the  east 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  311 

and  Mount  Equinox  on  the  west,  from  the  summit  of  which  may  be 
seen  Lakes  George  and  Champlain,  the  Catskills,  Greylock  and  the 
Franconia  cham  of  White  Mountains.  Hotel  of  the  first-class,  with 
extensive  grounds ;  stocked  trout  pond  one  mile  from  hotel,  for 
special  use  of  guests ;  table  water  from  Equinox  spring,  one  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet  above  the  village,  possessing  valuable  cura- 
tive qualities,  "as  near  perfect  as  any  water  known,"  says  Profes- 
sor Chandler ;  thorough  drainage  appointments  with  new  system 
of  water  supply ;  music  afternoon  and  evening ;  billiards,  bowling- 
alley,  tennis  and  croquet  grounds ;  beautiful  drives  and  excursions ; 
well  equipped  livery ;  dogs  not  taken.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ; 
by  the  week,  $21,  $25  and  $28;  in  the  cottage,  with  light  rooms, 
service,  etc.,  $17.50.  Proprietor,  F.  H.  Orvis,  Manchester,  Ben- 
nington county,  Vt. 


MIDDLETOWN  SPRINGS— Montvert  Hotel.— Seven  miles 
by  stage  from  Poultney,  which  is  seventy-two  miles  from  Albany 
by  the  Rutland  and  Washington  Railroad ;  elevation  about  three 
thousand  feet ;  gas ;  water  on  every  floor  from  mountain  springs ; 
hose  and  fire  extinguishers ;  wide  verandas,  affording  views  of 
Kellington,  Pico,  Spruce,  Knob  and  other  summits ;  billiards  and 
bowling;  gp-ounds  of  thirty-five  acres,  on  which  are  the  "healing 
springs ; "  livery  and  boarding  stables ;  receives  three  hundred  and 
fifty  guests.    Address,  The  Montvert,  Middletown  Springes,  Vt. 


NEWPORT,  VT.-^OwL's  Head  Hm  el  and  Cottages.— On  Lake 
Memphremagog,  at  base  of  Owl's  Head  Mountain  ;  by  rail  to  New- 
port and  steamer,  twelve  miles  to  hotel ;  five  hundred  acres  in 
grounds,  nearly  a  mile  of  lake  front ;  pure  mountain  air,  with 
aroma  from  forests  of  balsam-fir,  cedar  and  birch ;  house  recon- 
structed in  1890 ;  large  hall  for  indoor  amusements ;  water  on 
every  floor ;  bowling  ;  billiards ;  no  bar,  but  wine  served  at  table ; 
receives  one  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2  to  $3 ;  by 
the  week,  $8  to  $15. 


LAKE  DUN  MORE— Mountain  Spring  Hotel.— Nine  miles 
from  Brandon  on  the  Central  Vermont  Railroad ;  a  beautiful  lake 
five  miles  in  length,  bordered  by  mountains  ;  a  new  house  provided 
with  every  modem  appointment  for  the  comfort  of  guests ;  eleva- 
tor ;  electric  bells  in  every  room  ;  incandescent  electric  lights ;  hot 


312  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

and  cold  baths ;  rooms  single  or  in  suits ;  perfect  sanitary  condi- 
tions ;  pure  spring  water ;  beautiful  walks  and  drives ;  good  livery  ; 
two  hundred  spacious  and  well  furnished  rooms ;  six  cottages 
connected  with  hotel  by  covered  walk,  rented  whole  or  in  part. 
Open  in  June.  Prices : — By  the  week,  $12.50  to  $22.50.  Address- 
Salisbury,  Vt. 


X. 

WHITE  MOUNTAINS— MAINE  LAKES. 


The  mountain  land  of  New  Hampshire  includes  about  twenty 
peaks,  ranging  in  height  from  four  thousand  feet  to  that  of  Mount 
Washington,  six  thousand  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet.  Gen- 
eral elevation  of  the  plateau,  one  thousand  six  hundred  feet ;  its 
extent  from  south  to  north,  forty-five  miles ;  from  east  to  west, 
thirty  miles.  The  mountains  are  divided  into  two  groups,  the 
western  being  known  as  the  Franconia ;  they  form,  however,  but 
one  massif.  The  two  points  of  departure  for  the  mountains  are 
Wells  River  on  the  west,  and  North  Conway  on  the  east.  These 
two  points  are  connected  by  a  continuous  line  of  railway  formed  by 
the  junction  of  the  Lowell  division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  with 
the  Portland  and  Ogdensburg  Railways,  which  intersect  the  moun- 
tain region. — Wells  River  may  be  most  directly  reached  from  New 
York  by  way  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  and  Hartford  Railroad 
to  Springfield,  and  thence  up  the  Connecticut  Valley  ;  from  Boston 
by  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad,  which  touches  at  Lake  Win- 
nepesaukee. — North  Conway  is  reached,  via  Boston,  by  the  Boston 
and  Maine  Railroad. 


FRANCONIA  NOTCH— Profile  Housk.— A  pass  between  the 
Franconia  and  Pemigewasset  ranges ;  six  miles  by  railway  from 
Bethlehem  Junction  ;  hotel  on  an  open  plateau,  at  an  elevation  ot 
one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  seventy-four  feet ;  between  two 
lakes ;  parlor  100  by  50  feet ;  gas,  elevator,  steam  heat  and  open 
fires  ;  post  and  telegraph  ofifices ;  carriage  excursions  twice  daily 
through  the  Notch  to  the  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain  and  other 
places  of  special  interest ;  steam  yacht  on  Echo  Lake  ;  new  ball- 
room orchestra ;  receives  five  hundred  guests.  Drawing-room 
cars  through  from  New  York  daily.  Open  June  to  October  i. 
Prices :— By  the  day,  $4.50 ;  by  the  week,  $21  to  $28.  Special  rates 
for  families  in  July.     Proprietors,  Taf t  and  Greenleaf . 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  318 

LITTLETON— Oak  Hill  House.— In  the  valley  of  the  Ammo- 
noosuc,  on  the  Boston  and  Lowell  railroad  ;  elevation  one  thousand 
two  hundred  feet ;  two  hundred  feet  above  the  village ;  command- 
ing complete  views  of  the  White  and  Franconia  ranges ;  steam 
heat  and  open  wood  fires ;  gas  and  electric  lights  and  bells ;  spring 
water  from  the  hills  and  perfect  drainage  ;  receives  two  hundred 
gfuests.  Open  June  to  November.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $3  ;  by 
the  week,  for  one,  $10  to  $18  ;  special  rates  for  June.  Proprietors, 
Farr  &  Jarvis,  Littleton.  N.  H. 


JACKSON— Wentworth  Hall  and  Cottages.— At  the  conflu- 
ence of  two  mountain  streams,  three  miles  from  Glen  Station  on  the 
Portland  and  Ogdensburg  railroad  ;  old  manorial  style  of  archi- 
tecture, with  artistically  designed  cottages ;  open  fire-places  and 
steam  heat,  electric  bells ;  thorough  drainage  by  a  constant  flow  of 
water  from  Jackson  Falls,  a  picturesque  cascade  in  full  view  from 
the  verandas  ;  ball-room,  large  parlor  and  dining-room ;  kitchen  in 
a  separate  building  ;  reading-room  ;  smoking-room,  spacious  veran- 
das ;  fountains,  tennis  courts ;  expensively  constructed  stables ; 
noted  Delmonico  chef ;  telegraph  and  telephone  ;  receives  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  gfuests.  Open  June  i.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by 
the  week,  $21  to  $30  for  single  rooms,  $35  to  $60  for  double  rooms. 
Address  Jackson,  Carroll  Covmty,  N.  H. 


BETHLEHEM — The  MAi'LEWOon. — One  of  the  most  palatial  of 
mountain  h»)tels ;  ball-room  with  stage  scenery,  foot-lights,  dress- 
mg-rooms,  etc.;  full  orchestra  ;  tennis  courts,  billiard-room,  bowling- 
alley  ;  steam  heat  and  open  fires  ;  water  in  abundance  from  springes 
on  the  hills  ;  approved  drainage  system  ;  gfrounds  of  one  thousand 
two  hundred  acres,  including  stock  and  dairj-  farm  of  600  acres ; 
supplying  the  tables  with  fresh  milk,  butter  and  vegetables  ;  large 
livery  stables ;  receives  four  hundred  guests ;  the  Maplewood  Cot- 
tage is  similarly  appointed  and  receives  one  hundred  guests;  also 
thirteen  furnished  cottages  on  the  grounds,  rented  for  the  season, 
\\-ith  hotel  board.     Prices  :— By  the  day,  $4  and  upward. 


BARRON'S  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  HOUSES.— This  important 
chain  of  hotels,  in  the  heart  of  the  mountain  region,  under  one  pro- 


814  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

prietorship,  includes : — The  Fabyan  House,  at  Fabyan's  station ; 
receives  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The  Mount  Pleasant,  half 
a  mile  from  Fabyan  Junction  and  nearest  to  Mount  Washington  ; 
receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The  Crawford,  four  or  five 
miles  southeast  of  Fabyan  Junction  at  the  gate  of  the  Notch  ;  re- 
ceives three  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The  Summit  House,  on  the 
summit  of  Mount  Washington ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty 
guests.  Prices  : — At  the  Crawford  and  Fabyan  houses,  $4.50  a  day ; 
$21  to  $30  a  week ;  at  the  Mount  Pleasant,  $3  a  day  ;  $14  to  $21  a 
week ;  at  the  Summit  House,  $5  a  day.  Proprietors :  Barron  & 
Merrill. 


} 

JACKSON — Iron  Mountain  House. — Half  a  mile  from  the  vil- 
lage of  Jackson,  and  two  and  one-half  miles  from  Glen  station ;  house 
nearly  new ;  view  from  the  verandas  includes  Mt.  Washington, 
Double  Head,  Tin  and  Thorn  Mountains  in  the  east,  the  famous 
Moat  to  the  south  and  the  Iron  range  in  the  west ;  large,  well- 
lighted  rooms  with  closets ;  spring  water  led  in  own  pipes  from 
Iron  Mountain  ;  heated  by  hot  water  system  and  open  fires ;  bath- 
rooms and  thorough  drainage  system ;  separate  dining-room  for 
nurses  and  children ;  livery  at  moderate  prices ;  coaches  to  all 
trains ;  receives  one  hundred  guests.  Open  June  i  till  October  15. 
Prices: — By  the  week,  $9  to  $21  for  single  rooms,  $16  to  $26 for 
double  rooms ;  special  rates  for  June  and  after  September  15. 


GLEN  HOUSE. — At  the  eastern  base  of  Mount  Washington,  on 
a  terrace  looking  out  upon  the  five  highest  mountains  of  New  Eng- 
land, which  are  but  three  or  four  miles  distant ;  stage  route  to  the 
summit  of  Mount  Washington  (eight  miles) ;  elevation  one  thou- 
sand six  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet ;  tally-ho  six-horse  coaches 
connect  with  trains  at  Glen  station  (fifteen  miles)  ;  a  new  house 
built  a  few  years  ago  on  the  site  of  the  older  house ;  supplied 
throughout  with  spring  water  from  the  famous  Glen  Spring ;  eleva- 
tor, gas,  and  all  the  latest  appointments ;  open  fire-places  in  every 
suite  of  rooms  as  well  as  in  the  rotunda  and  all  public  apartments ; 
orchestral  music  ;  stables  with  one  hundred  horses  and  every  kind 
of  vehicle  for  mountain  service  ;  herd  of  fifty  Jersey  cows ;  receives 
three  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Open  June  to  October  i.  Prices  : 
— By  the  day,  $4.50 ;  by  the  week,  $21  to  $28 ;  children,  half  rates. 
Proprietor :  C.  R.  Milliken,  Portland,  Me. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  315 

MOOSEHEAD  LAKE— Mr.  Kineo  House.— Source  of  the  Ken- 
nebec River,  on  the  border  of  the  great  Maine  woods,  one  thousand 
and  twenty-three  feet  above  the  sea  ;  thirty-five  miles  long,  from 
one  to  twelve  in  width ;  a  picturesque  and  substantial  hotel,  at  the 
base  of  Mt.  Kineo ;  a  promontory,  half  way  up  the  lake,  commanding 
a  magnificent  view ;  gas,  electric  bells,  steam  heat,  open  fire-place, 
steam  elevator,  etc.;  dining-room  loox  51  feet ;  verandas  fifteen  feet 
wide  ;  birch  canoes  and  glides  supplied  ;  orchestral  music.  Open  in 
June.  Prices : — By  the  day,  June,  July  and  October,  $2.50  to  $3 ; 
intermediate  months,  $3  to  $4 ;  special  rates  by  the  week  or 
month. 


XI. 

BERKSHIRE  AND  LITCHFIELD  HILLS. 

The  hills  and  mountains  of  Berkshire  County,  in  Western  Massa- 
chusetts, are  the  connecting  links  between  the  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont  and  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson.  They  are  now  gentle 
and  sloping  in  their  lines,  now  wild  and  broken,  sheltering  well- 
watered  and  cultivated  valleys,  whose  elm-shaded  towns  and  villages 
are  famous  for  their  beauty — a  region  of  lakes,  mountain  torrents, 
glens,  lovers'  lanes,  rocks  and  echoes.  The  Berkshire  Hills  are 
intersected  by  the  valley  of  the  Housatonic,  whose  waters  flow 
southward,  and  the  valley  of  the  Hoosac,  whose  waters  flow  north- 
ward, the  Hoosac  Mountains  lying  on  the  east  and  the  Taghkonics 
on  the  west  of  these  connecting  valleys.  The  highest  points  are 
Greylock  (three  thousand  five  hundred  feet)  in  the  north,  and 
Mount  Everett  in  the  south.  The  valley  towns  are  from  five  hun- 
dred to  one  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  the  hill  towns 
from  one  thousand  two  hundred  to  one  thousand  eight  hundred. 
The  region  is  penetrated  by  the  Housatonic  Valley  railroad,  which 
starts  from  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  on  the  New  York  and  New  Haven 
road,  and  terminates  at  Pittsfield,  the  county  town  of  Berkshire. 
From  Pittsfield  the  Pittsfield  and  North  Adams  branch  railroad 
leads  through  Northern  Berkshire  to  Williamstown,  where  the 
Troy  and  Boston  railroad  crosses,  by  which  latter  road  the  tourist 
from  the  west  or  east  may  enter  this  charming  country.  Western 
Connecticut,  especially  Litchfield  County,  in  the  northwestern 
part  of  the  State,  presents  scenerj'  of  the  same  general  character 
as  that  which  prevails  in  Berkshire.  Accessible  by  the  Housa- 
tonic railroad  from  Bridgeport  on  the  New  York  and  New  Haven 
railroad ;  by  the  Naugatuck  railroad  from  Bridgeport,  and  by  the 
New  Haven  and  Northampton  railroad. 


316'  SUMMER    RESORT  GUIDE. 

PITTSFIELD—Maplewood.— Elevation  of  the  town  nearly  one 
thousand  one  hundred  feet ;  substantial  brick  building,  recently 
improved  at  an  expenditure  of  $14,000;  park-like  grounds  with 
century-old  maples  and  elms  ;  gas  ;  water  from  a  mountain  lake  ; 
new  sanitary  improvements ;  new  parlors,  bathrooms  and  new 
sleeping  rooms ;  ' '  recreation  room  "  with  excellent  dancing  floor, 
stage  for  theatricals,  bowling  alleys  and  a  dark  room  for  amateur 
photography  ;  livery  and  stabling ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty 
gfuests.  Open  June  to  November  i.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3;  by 
the  week,  $12  to  $25.  Proprietor ;  Arthur  W.  Plumb,  Pittsfield, 
Mass. 

PITTSFIELD— The  Springside? — A  new  house  ;  important  ad- 
ditions and  improvements  made  since  last  year;  elevation  about 
one  thousand  six  hundred  feet ;  approached  by  an  elm-shaded  drive 
from  the  main  road  ;  extensive  grounds  with  shaded  walks,  includ- 
ing a  small  lake ;  large  rooms ;  electric  lights  ;  baths ;  boarding  and 
livery  stables ;  telephonic  connections ;  receives  seventy  g^iests. 
Prices : — By  the  week,  $12  to  $25. 


LENOX — Bellevue  Hotel. — A  select  and  pleasantly  situated 
family  hotel,  the  special  feature  of  which  is  the  table  ;  receives  one 
hundred  guests.  Open  June  i.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3;  by  the 
week.  $15  and  upward. 

STOCKBRIDGE — Stockbridge  House. — One  of  the  pleasantest 
and  most  frequented  villages  in  the  Housatonic  valley,  between 
Lenox  on  the  north  and  Great  Barrington  on  the  south  ;  house  re- 
cently enlarged  and  improved ;  receives  one  hundred  to  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  guests.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $3 ;  by  the 
week,  $15  to  $21.  Proprietor,  Charles  H.  Plumb,  Stockbridge, 
Mass. 


GREAT  BARRINGTON— Collins  House.— Pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  a  farm  of  sixty-five  acres  in  the  outskirts  of  the  village, 
surrounded  by  shade  trees  and  supplied  with  spring  water ;  half  a 
mile  from  the  station,  post-office  and  free  library ;  large  rooms, 
comfortably  furnished ;  livery ;  receives  sixty  guests.  Prices : — 
By  the  day,  $2.50;  by  the  week,  $10  to  $15.  Proprietor,  George  A. 
TuUer. 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.  317 

GREAT  BARRINGTON— The  Berkshire  Inn.— A  year-round 
resort.  Three  and  one-half  hours  from  New  York  ;  situated  on  the 
main  street,  which  is  shaded  by  grand  old-time  elms  and  bordered 
by  cottages  and  villas  amid  beautifully  ornamented  grounds  ;  pure 
mountain  air ;  a  well-built  stone  house,  provided  with  spring  water, 
electric  lights,  gas,  baths,  etc.;  location  amid  high  hills  and  peculiar 
atmospheric  conditions  render  out-door  exercise  enjoyable ;  gener- 
ous provision  for  winter  comfort  indoors  with  sun  parlors,  steam 
and  open  fires ;  perfect  sanitary  arrangements ;  a  well-equipped 
livery  stable,  affording  every  facility  for  the  enjoyment  of  the 
many  delighful  drives  which  centre  at  this  beautiful  village.  Pro- 
prietor, C.  Ticknor,  Great  Barrington,  Mass. 


xn. 

NEW  JERSEY  HIGHLANDS. 


The  mountain  ranges  of  New  Jersey,  extending  over  all  that  part 
of  the  State  lying  northward  of  the  City  of  New  York,  are  the 
prolongation  of  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson.  They  nowhere  at- 
tain a  height  greater  than  one  thousand  two  hundred  feet,  but  are 
broken  up  into  picturesque  groupings,  intersected  with  wild  water- 
courses and  interspersed  with  lakes.  The  most  important  eleva- 
tion is  Schooley's  Mountain,  a  ridge  of  considerable  extent,  acces- 
sible by  the  Delaware  and  Lackawanna  railroad  to  Hackettstown 
(sixty-two  miles) ,  thence  by  a  stage  drive  of  about  three  miles  ; 
also  by  the  New  Jersey  Central  to  German  Valley,  thence  by  a 
stage  route  of  two  and  one-half  miles.  Near  the  summit  is  a  chaly- 
beate spring,  which  has  an  old  established  reputation  for  efficacy 
in  dyspeptic  and  calculous  affections.  The  views  include  neigh- 
boring and  far  distant  summits,  and  the  rambles  and  drives  are 
full  of  interest.  On  the  southern  border  of  the  New  Jersey  High- 
lands is  a  pleasant  hill  country,  traversed  by  the  New  Jersey  Cen- 
tral railroad  (Liberty  street),  which  offers  many  delightful  places 
of  summer  residence. 


LAKE  HOPATCONG— Hotel  Breslin.— In  the  Brookland 
Mountains,  fifty  milts  from  New  York,  two  and  one-half  miles  from 
Drakesville,  on  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  Railroad, 
or  accessible  by  boat  from  Hopatcong  station ;  time  from  New 
York,  one  hour  and  fifty  minutes  ;  lake  twelve  miles  long  and  one 


818  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

to  three  miles  wide,  of  irregular  outline,  dotted  with  islands  and 
bordered  in  places  by  bold  mountain  declivities ;  elevation  one 
thousand  two  hundred  feet ;  a  new  and  large  hotel  in  the  centre  of 
Mount  Arlington  Park,  one  hundred  and  fifty-five  feet  above  the 
lake,  ofifering  from  its  verandas,  eight  hundred  feet  in  length, 
varied  and  beautiful  views ;  elevator,  electric  bells,  steam  heat, 
open  fireplaces,  bath-rooms  on  every  floor ;  children's  play-room  and 
dining-room  ;  boats  and  steam  launches ;  tennis  lawns ;  livery  and 
boarding  stables.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $5  ;  by  the  week,  $25  to 
$28.    Manager,  R.  H.  Stearns ;  New  York  address,  265  Broadway. 


SCHOOLEY'S  MOUNTAIN— 9EATH  House.— A  number  of 
distinct  buildings,  one  of  which  is  reserved  for  families,  another  for 
adults,  accommodating  in  all  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests  ;  sani- 
tary arrangements  vouched  for  by  scientific  authorities ;  music  for 
the  season,  the  music-room  being  i8o  feet  long  by  40  wide ;  thirty 
acres  in  wooded  lawns,  encircled  by  a  drive  ;  pure  water ;  perfect 
drainage  ;  livery  and  private  stables ;  twenty  trained  saddle  horses, 
ponies  for  children,  and  a  professional  riding  master ;  telegraph 
and  telephone.  Open  early  in  June.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $2.50; 
by  the  week,  $12,  $14  and  $16  for  single  rooms,  $24,  $28  and  $32 
for  double  rooms  ;  nurses  and  children,  $7  ;  furnished  cottages  to 
let.  Proprietor,  J.  Warren  Coleman.  Manager,  William  E.  Cole- 
man, Schooley's  Mountain,  Morris  county,  N.  J.;  New  York  ofiBce, 
room  87,  Evening  Post  Building. 

• 
BERNARDSVILLE— Hotel  Somerset.— In  the  Highlands  of 
Somerset  county,  where  the  Passaic  and  Raritan  Rivers  have  their 
source  ;  thirty-five  miles  from  New  York  by  the  Passaic  and  Dela- 
ware branch  of  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  Railroad ; 
elevation  one  thousand  feet ;  scenery  full  of  varied  beauty ;  large 
rooms,  good  beds  ;  electric  bells,  billiard  tables  and  bowling  alleys  ; 
farm  of  one  thousand  acres ;  fruits  and  vegetables  from  the  hotel 
gardens ;  choicest  dairy  supplies,  a  registered  herd  of  fifty  Jersey 
cows  belonging  to  the  hotel ;  superior  .stabling ;  stage  meets  trains ; 
receives  two  hundred  guests.  Open  in  June.  Prices : — By  the 
week,  $20  to  $25.    Address,  Bernardsville.  Somerset  county,  N.  J. 


MORRISTOWN— Walton  Cottage.— At  "  Iron  Spring  Farm,"  a 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  village ;  pleasantly  situated,  with  comfort- 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  319 

able  home-like  appointments ;  gas,  pure  spring  water,  thorough 
drainage  ;  stabling  for  forty  horses ;  supplies  of  fresh  vegetables, 
fruit  and  milk  from  the  farm  ;  beautiful  drives  and  fishing  in  lake ; 
receives  seventy  guests.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices : — By  the 
week,  for  one,  $12  to  $15  ;  for  two,  $25  to  $30 ;  children,  half  price. 
Address,  L.  W.  Walton,  box  442,  Morristown,  N.  J. 


MORRISTOWN— Park  House.— Pleasantly  situated,  facing  the 
park,  five  minutes  walk  from  the  station ;  a  family  hotel  with 
accommodations  for  fifty  or  sixty  guests ;  three  acres  of  ground ; 
pure  spring  water.  Prices: — By  the  week,  $io  to  $18.  Address, 
Park  House,  Morristown,  N.  J. 


XIII. 

DELAWARE  HIGHLANDS. 


The  so-called  Delaware  Highlands  are  an  extension  of  the  Shaw- 
angunk  Mountains,  and  take  their  name  from  the  Delaware  River, 
which  intersects  them  obliquely.  The  river  enters  at  Port  Jervis 
and  escapes  at  the  Water  Gap,  a  narrow  gorge  walled  by  rocky 
precipices  one  thousand  six  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  distance 
from  Port  Jervis  to  the  Water  Gap  is  forty  miles.  The  highlands 
include  parts  of  Pike  and  Monroe  counties,  Pennsylvania,  and  of 
Sussex  and  Warren  counties.  New  Jersey.  It  is  a  region  where 
lovers  of  mountain  rambling  may  find  glens,  caves,  lakes,  water- 
falls, in  abundance,  and  which  is  much  frequented  by  anglers  and 
sportsmen.  Accessible  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western 
(Barclay  and  Christopher  streets)  to  the  Water  Gap  and  Strouds- 
burg,  in  three  and  a  half  hours ;  and  by  the  New  York  and  Erie 
(Chambers  street)  to  Port  Jervis  and  Lackawaxen,  whence  stage 
routes  to  various  resorts. 


WATER  GAP— Water  Gap  House.— Stands  on  a  wooded  height 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  commanding  one  of  the  finest 
views  of  the  Gap,  and  overlooking  the  country  for  miles  in  all 
directions ;  three  hours  from  New  York  by  the  Delaware,  Lacka- 
wanna and  Western  Railroad ;  large  rooms  with  gas  and  water 
from  mountain  springs ;  electric  bells ;  wide  verandas,  six  hundred 


320  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

and  seventy  feet  in  length ;  billiards,  boating,  bathing,  fishing, 
mountain  rambles  and  drives.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3.50  to  $4; 
by  the  week,  June  and  October,  $16 ;  July,  August  and  September, 
$18.     Proprietor,  L.  W.  Brodhead,  Delaware  Water  Gap,  Pa. 


WATER  GAP — KiTTATiNNY  House. — On  a  plateau,  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  feet  above  the  river,  on  the  Pennsylvania  side, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  river  and  the  surrounding  hills ;  ten 
minutes  from  the  station ;  enlarged  and  refurnished ;  elevator  and 
all  modem  improvements ;  rooms  in  suites  with  private  baths  and 
parlors;  heated  by  steam  and  wood ^res;  verandas  eight  hundred 
feet  in  length  ;  grounds  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  with  shaded 
walks ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open  June  i  to  December. 
Prices  :— By  the  day,  $3  to  $4 ;  by  the  week,  for  single  rooms,  $16 
and  upward ;  for  double  rooms,  $30  and  upward.  Proprietors,  W. 
A.  Brodhead  &  Sons,  Delaware  Water  Gap,  Pa. 


MILFORD — Bluff  House. — Seven  miles  from  Port  Jervis,  on  a 
bluff  overlooking  Delaware  River ;  within  half  a  mile  of  the  falls  of 
the  Sawkill,  twenty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height ;  a  famous  jglen 
within  three  minutes'  walk  of  the  house ;  steps  and  winding  walks 
down  the  bluff  to  the  Delaware,  where  there  are  boats  ;  fishing  and 
hunting ;  hot  and  cold  water  baths ;  wide  verandas ;  billiards ; 
no  bar ;  receives  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  guests.  Prices : — 
By  the  day,  $2.50;  special  arrangements  by  the  week  or  month. 
Proprietor,  H.  B.  Wells,  Milford,  Pike  county.  Pa. 


DINGMAN'S  FERRY— High  Falls  Hotel.— Two  and  a  half 
hours'  drive  by  stage  from  Port  Jervis  on  the  Erie  Railroad  ;  four 
and  a  half  hours  by  mail  coach  from  Stroudsburg  on  the  Delaware, 
Lackawanna  and  Western ;  two  hours  by  hotel  carriage,  notice 
given,  from  Brancheville  on  Morris  and  Essex,  elevation  one  thou- 
sand two  hundred  feet ;  cascades,  caves,  glens,  etc.,  within  easy 
walking  distance  of  the  house ;  water  from  mountain  springs ; 
livery  at  country  prices ;  rowing  and  bathing ;  veranda  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  long ;  receives  two  hundred  guests.  Open  April 
I  to  December  i.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $2.50;  by  the  week,  $10; 
special  rates  for  the  season.  Proprietor,  Philip  Fulmer,  M.  D., 
Dingman's  Ferry,  Pike  county.  Pa. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  321 

XIV. 

APPALACHIAN   REGION   OF   PENNSYLVANIA, 

MARYLAND.  WEST  VIRGINIA  AND 

NORTH    CAROLINA. 


The  Appalachian  Mountain  sjrtem  has  a  breadth  in  Pennsylvania 
of  about  one  hundred  miles,  and  is  bordered  on  the  east  by  the 
Blue  Ridge,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Alleghany  range.  The  Penn- 
sylvania Railroad  penetrates  the  Blue  Ridge  at  Harrisburg,  and 
following  for  one  hundred  and  seventeen  miles  the  \dndings  of 
the  Juniata,  climbs  the  Alleghanies  at  Altoona. — The  characteristic 
feature  of  this  mountain  system  in  its  prolongation  through  West 
Virginia  is  its  richness  in  mineral  springs,  many  of  which  have 
long  been  important  places  of  resort  for  their  health-giving  waters 
and  picturesque  surroundings;  the  elevation,  one  thousand  five 
hundred  to  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet,  ensures  coolness  and 
purity  of  air  even  in  midsummer. — In  North  Carolina  the  Appa- 
lachian system  has  a  breadth  of  about  fifty  miles,  and  is  crossed  bj- 
transverse  chains  which  throw  up  the  loftiest  summits  of  the  Atlan- 
tic slope.  Among  these  is  Mount  Mitchell,  formerly  known  as  the 
Black  Dome  (six  thousand  seven  hundred  and  ten  feet).  Asheville, 
a  town  of  several  thousand  inhabitants  (elevation  two  thousand 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet),  is  the  point  of  departure  for  excursions 
in  this  sublime  mountain  land  ;  it  is  reached  m  twenty-four  hours 
from  New  York  by  the  Piedmont  Air  Line  (Pennsylvania  station, 
Jersey  City),  connecting  at  Salisbury  with  the  Western  North 
Carolina  Railroad.     Average  temperature  in  July,  71.9. 


MINNEQUA  SPRINGS,  PA.— Mi.naequa  House,— In  a  moun- 
tain glen,  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea, 
surrounded  by  rugged  heights ;  springs  of  abundant  flow  and  re- 
markable curative  properties ;  accessible  via  Pennsylvania  Railroad 
to  Harrisburg,  thence  by  Northern  Central ;  in  a  park  of  one  hun- 
dred acres ;  newly  erected  house,  with  elevator  and  all  modem  ap- 
pointments; orchestral  music ;  receives  five  hundred  guests.  Open 
June  to  November. 


GL,EN  SUMMIT,  PA.— Glen  Summit  Hotel.— On  the  Nescopec, 
a  mountain  ridge  dividing  the  Wyoming  and  Lehigh  valleys ;  five 
hours  from  New  York  by  Lehigh  Valley  road,  Liberty  street ;  ele- 


322  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

vation  two  thousand  feet,  commanding  a  view  one  hundred  miles 
in  extent  over  a  wild  mountainous  region  ;  recently  enlarged  and 
hydraulic  elevator  added  ;  gas,  steam  heat,  electric  bells ;  water  on 
every  floor  from  the  Indian  Sand  spring ;  baths ;  grounds  of  six 
hundred  acres  laid  out  in  walks  and  drives ;  receives  two  hundred 
guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $20.  Address 
Glen  Summit,  Luzerne  County,  Pa. 


HIGHLAND  LAKE,  PA.— Essick  Mt.  Home.— Five  miles  by 
stage  from  Picture  Rocks,  a  station  on  tl?e  Williamsport  and  North 
Branch  Railroad,  sixteen  miles  from  Williamsport,  Pa.,  on  a  spur  of 
the  Alleghanies,  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet ;  grounds  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  acres  surrounded  by  virgin  forests  ;  a  deer 
park  with  fawns  and  other  native  animals ;  adjacent  lake  for  bathing 
and  boating ;  new  house ;  wide  verandas,  large  bedchambers  fur- 
nished in  hard  wood  and  supplied  with  hair  spring  mattresses; 
water  from  flowing  springs ;  thorough  sanitary  arrangements ; 
daily  parlor  and  lawn  concerts  by  a  select  orchestra ;  mails  twice 
daily,  telephone  connections.  Open  June  i  to  October  i.  Proprie- 
tor, H.  M.  Essick,  Picture  Rocks,  Lycoming  County,  Pa. 


WERNERSVILLE,  PA.— Grand  View  House.  — Nine  miles 
from  Reading  ;  on  South  Mountain,  a  spur  of  the  Blue  range,  a  re- 
gion known  for  salubrity  of  climate,  pure  water  and  picturesque 
scenery ;  two  and  one-fourth  hours  from  Philadelphia  ;  four  and 
one-fourth  hours  from  New  York  by  the  Central  Railroad  of  New 
Jersey  ;  hotel  in  a  tract  of  about  four  hundred  acres  of  evergreen 
and  forest  trees,  laid  out  in  parks  and  rambles ;  a  massive  struc- 
ture, built  of  mountain  stone,  lined  on  the  inside  to  protect  from 
dampness ;  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  long  and  four  stories 
high  ;  also  a  large  three  story  cottage,  about  ninety  feet  from  the 
main  building,  used  exclusively  as  a  dormitory,  heated  by  steam 
and  open  grates.  All  important  appliances  for  the  successful 
treatment  of  disease,  massage,  electricity ;  Turkish,  vapor  and  other 
baths ;  oxygen  inhalations,  etc.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices : — 
By  the  week,  $10  to  $25.     Proprietors  :  Drs.  Wenrich  &  Deppen. 


POCONO  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE.— On  one  of  the  highest  points 
of  the  Pocono  Mountains,  one-third  of  a  mile  from  Fork's  Station  on 
the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  Railroad  ;  elevation,  two 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  838 

thousand  two  hundred ;  commanding  a  view  of  the  Delaware  Valley 
above  and  below  the  Water  Gap  ;  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  grove, 
with  numerous  springs  of  cold  water  ;  hotel  recently  enlarged  ;  elec- 
tric bells  ;  hot  and  cold  baths  ;  large  piazzas  at  every  story ;  perfect 
drainage ;  table  supplied  from  dairy  and  truck  farm  and  from  New 
York  and  Philadelphia  markets ;  two  cottages  in  connection  with 
the  house  ;  boarding  and  livery  stables ;  trout  fishing  and  gunning ; 
stage  meets  all  trains ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Open  May 
to  November.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3  ;  by  the  week,  $17.50  and 
upwards  for  single  ;  $30  for  double  rooms.  Special  rates  for  June 
and  September.  Proprietors,  E.  E.  Hooker  &  Son,  Mount  Pocono, 
Monroe  County,  Pa. 


THE  GLADES,  MD.— Deer  Park  and  Oakland.— A  series  of 
openings  along  the  upper  waters  of  the  Youghiogheny  river  on 
the  plateau  summit  of  the  Alleghanies  of  Maryland ;  elevation 
about  three  thousand  feet ;  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  west  of 
Baltimore  on  the  main  line  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  all 
trains  of  which  stop  at  both  the  hotels  above  named,  which  are  six 
miles  apart,  the  Deer  Park  Hotel  consisting  of  three  large  and 
picturesque  buildings  connected  by  covered  passageways ;  elabor- 
ately appointed  and  elegantly  furnished  ;  abundance  of  pure  spring 
water ;  perfect  drainage  system ;  at  Deer  Park  a  large  bath- 
house with  swimming  pool  and  smaller  baths,  the  water  main- 
tained at  an  equal  temperature  by  steam  heat ;  billiards  and  bowl- 
ing ;  electric  lights  in  the  hotels  and  on  the  grounds ;  orchestral 
music  morning  and  evening  at  both  houses ;  completely  appointed 
livery ;  beautiful  drives  over  well-made  roads ;  a  number  of  cot- 
tages rented  separately,  with  hotel  service ;  resident  physicians ; 
railway  station  on  the  grounds  of  each  house  ;  buffet,  parlor  and 
sleeping  cars  of  elegant  appointments,  with  attentive  service  en 
route.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50 ;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $21 ;  by  the 
month,  $60,  $75  and  $go.  Manager,  George  D.  DeShields,  Deer 
Park  or  Oakland,  Garrett  County,  Md. ;  address  Manager  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Hotels,  Cumberland,  Md. 


CAPON  SPRINGS  AND  BATHS,  VA.— On  the  western  slope  of 
the  great  North  Mountains  four  miles  from  the  base  and  two  miles 
from  the  summit,  a  delightful  drive  of  fifteen  miles  from  Capon 
station  on  the  Harper's  Ferry  and  Valley  branch  of  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  Railroad ;  elevation,  one  thousand  nine  hundred ;  aver- 


824  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

age  summer  temperature,  sixty-five  degrees ;  fishing  and  boating 
in  Capon  river  and  lake ;  horseback  ascent  to  Eagle's  rock  and 
other  summits,  affording  a  magnificent  coup-d'ceil ;  bathing  estab- 
lishment two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  length,  including  swim- 
ming pool  ninety  feet  by  forty-eight,  and  various  kinds  of  baths ; 
orchestral  music  ;  ball-room  eighty  by  forty  feet ;  music-room 
with  stage  for  theatricals ;  receives  nine  hundred  guests.  Open 
June  to  October.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $2.50  to  $2.75;  by  the 
week,  $11.25  to  $17.50;  children  at  half  rates.  Proprietor  :  W.  H. 
Sale,  Capon  Springs,  W.  Va. 


WHITE  SULPHUR  SPRING^Central  Hotel.— On  the  line 
of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railway,  on  the  western  slope  of  the 
Alleghanies,  at  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet  and  surrounded 
by  mountain  heights  ;  accessible  from  New  York  via  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Railroad  (Pullman  cars  without  change)  ;  hotel  and  one 
hundred  cottages,  receiving  in  all  two  thousand  guests ;  fifty  acres 
in  lawns ;  shooting  gallery,  billiard  and  bowling  halls ;  orchestral 
music  ;  waters  of  the  springs  celebrated  for  their  therapeutic 
value ;  elaborate  bathing  facilities ;  no  malaria,  no  mosquitoes. 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3.50;  by  the  week,  $21 ;  by  the  month,  $75. 
Superintendent :  B.  F.  Eakle,  White  Sulphur  Springs,  Greenbrier 
County,  West  Virginia. 


XV. 

NEW   JERSEY   SHORE. 

The  ocean  shore  of  New  Jersey,  extending  from  Sandy  Hook  to 
Cape  May,  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles  in  length  and  is 
dotted  all  along  with  frequented  resorts,  each  having  its  peculiar 
attractions.  With  these  Staten  Island  may  be  conveniently  and 
naturally  grouped.  The  distances  from  Sandy  Hook  are  as  fol- 
lows : — Highlands  of  Navesink  (four  miles)  ;  Bellevue  (five  miles) ; 
Seabright  and  Normandie  (six  miles) ;  Oceanic  (seven  miles)  ;  Mon- 
mouth Beach  (eight  miles)  ;  Long  Branch  (ten  miles) ;  Elberon 
(twelve  miles)  ;  Deal  (fourteen  miles) ;  Asbury  Park  and  Ocean 
Grove  (sixteen  miles) ;  Key  East  (seventeen  miles) ;  Ocean  Beach 
(eighteen  miles)  ;  Spring  Lake  (twenty  miles) ;  Sea  Girt  (twenty- 
two  miles) ;  Brielle  (twenty-three  miles) ;  Manasquan,  Point  Pleas- 
ant, St.  Elmo  and  Bay  Head  (twenty-five  miles)  ;  Tom's  River  and 
Berkeley  (thirty-seven  miles)  ;  Tuckerton,  Beach  Haven,  Atlantic 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.'  385 

City  (one  hundred  miles),  and  Cape  May  (one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles.)  The  New  Jersey  shore  is  accessible  as  far  as  Seaside  Park 
by  the  New  Jersey  Central  (Liberty  street),  or  by  the  Sandy  Hook 
division  of  the  New  Jersey  Central,  steamers  leaving  from  Liberty 
street  and  connecting,  after  a  sail  of  twenty  miles  down  New  York 
bay,  with  trains  at  Atlantic  Highlands;  or  by  the  Pennsylvania  Rail- 
road (Cortlandt  and  Desbrosses  streets)  to  Long  Branch  and  resorts 
south  of  Long  Branch.  Places  between  Seaside  Park  and  Atlantic 
City  are  accessible  by  the  Tom's  River  and  Tuckerton  branches  of 
the  New  Jersey  Central  and  by  branches  of  the  Pennsylvania. 
Atlantic  City  and  Cape  May  are  reached  by  the  Pennsylvania  road. 


STATEN  ISLAND— Pavilion  Hotel.— At  New  Brighton,  on 
New  York  Bay,  thirty  minutes  from  the  -Battery  terminus  of  the 
elevated  roads  ;  boats  every  twenty  minutes  (fare  ten  cents)  ;  on  a 
bluff  three  minutes'  walk  from  landing ;  faced  by  lofty  porticos, 
commanding  a  complete  view  of  the  bay,  the  view  from  the  cupola 
extending  to  the  open  sea  on  the  south,  and  the  palisades  of  the 
Hudson  on  the  north  ;  elevator,  electric  bells,  bath-rooms  on  every 
floor ;  bowling-alley,  billiard  room,  tennis  court,  children's  play- 
room ;  spacious  dining  and  ball-room  with  musicians'  gallery,  music 
at  dinner ;  livery  and  private  stables  ;  receives  three  hundred  and 
fifty  guests.  Open  April  to  November.  Address  New  Brighton, 
Staten  Island.  

STATEN  ISLAND— Hotel  Castleton.—Ou  Brighton  Heights, 
overlooking  the  Narrows  and  New  York  bay ;  delightful  summer 
residence  ;  only  thirty  minutes  from  Battery ;  elegantly  decorated 
and  furnished  throughout ;  elevator,  electric  light,  and  all  modern 
improvements ;  spacious  verandas.  Open  all  the  year.  Proprietor, 
James  H.  Rodgers,  New  Brighton,  Staten  Island. 


MONMOUTH  PARK— Monmouth  Park  Hotel.— A  new  hotel, 
fronting  on  the  Shrewsbury  river  ;  the  grounds  extending  one  mile 
along  the  shore  ;  a  substantially  built  and  beautiful  house  with 
large  rooms,  and  all  the  latest  appointments ;  dining  halls  in  an 
annex ;  electric  bells  ;  artesian  water. 


LONG  BRANCH — United  States  Hotel. — A  step  from  the 
Central  Railroad  station  and  near  the  pier ;  faces  the  sea  with 
magnificent  lawns  intervening ;  verandas  and  balconies  to  e^cU 


826  'SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

floor ;  rooms,  single  and  en  suite,  for  four  hundred  guests ;  running 
water  on  each  floor  ;  scientific  plumbing  and  drainage.  Prices  : — 
By  the  day.  $3  to  $3.50 ;  moderate  rates  to  families  for  the  season. 
Proprietor,  J.  C.  Van  Cleaf,  who  may  be  seen  at  the  Mansion 
House,  Brooklyn  Heights,  of  which  he  is  one  of  the  proprietors. 


LONG  BRANCH— The  Scarboro.— At  the  comer  of  Ocean  and 
Bath  avenues,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from  the  bluff,  every 
room  commanding  a  full  view  of  the  ocean  ;  all  the  modern  appoint- 
ments for  convenience,  comfort  and  sanitation  ;  large  tennis  lawn 
adjoining  the  house  ;  best  surf-bathing  in  front ;  stables  connected 
by  telephone  with  the  hotel ;  music  morning  and  evening  ;  receives 
two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4  to  $5 ;  by 
the  week,  $21  and  upward. 


LONG  BRANCH— West  End  and  Cottages.— On  the  bluff 
within  two  hundred  feet  of  the  beach,  commanding  an  uninterrupted 
view  of  the  ocean ;  elevators  and  all  the  latest  appointments ; 
extensive  grounds,  with  luxurious  seaside  cottages  connected  by 
telephone  ;  separate  amusement  hall,  120x80  feet,  with  ball-room, 
stage,  ladies'  billiard  and  reading-rooms,  bowling-alleys,  etc. ;  sea 
view  pavilion  connected  with  hotel  by  an  elevated  bridge  ;  Neyer's 
orchestra ;  Sunday  night  concerts ;  bathing-houses,  warm  sea 
baths  at  all  hours  ;  well  equipped  livery  and  boarding  stables ;  re- 
ceives one  thousand  guests ;  cottages  and  restaurant  will  open 
June  II.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $25  and  upwards. 
Proprietors,  D.  M.  and  W.  E.  Hildreth ;  New  York  office,  Metro- 
politan Hotel. 


LONG  BRANCH — Howland  Hotel. — Adjoining  the  grounds  of 
the  West  End  ;  frequented  by  Philadelphia  and  New  York  families 
of  social  prominence  ;  newly  furnished  and  renovated  throughout ; 
complete  and  beautiful  in  its  appointments;  thorough  sanitary 
arrangements  ;  spacious  lawns ;  select  orchestra  ;  choice  cuisine  ; 
receives  four  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4.50 ; 
by  the  week,  $25  ;  special  rates  for  the  season. 


ELBERON — The  Elberon. — A  few  minutes' walk  from  Elberon 
station,  about  two  miles  south  of  the  West  End,  Long  Branch  ;  pic- 
turesque in  architecture,  ivy-covered,  facing  the  ocean ;  complete 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  327 

in  appointments ;  a  number  of  Queen  Anne  cottages  dispersed, 
amid  the  grounds,  connected  by  telegraph  with  the  main  building 
the  occupants  being  served  at  home  or  at  the  hotel  table ;  spacious 
lawns  for  tennis,  archery,  etc. 


POINT  PLEASANT  BEACH.— Resort  House.— On  Manas' 
quan  Bay,  affording  one  of  the  finest  and  safest  beaches  on  the 
coast ;  combination  of  country  and  seashore  ;  extensive  woods  and 
fields  in  vicinity ;  large,  well-ventilated  rooms,  with  ocean  and 
shore  view  of  forty  miles ;  modem  improvements ;  no  malaria ; 
grounds  for  tennis,  croquet  and  archery ;  rowing,  sailing,  fishing ; 
surf  and  still  water  bathing ;  orchestra ;  choice  cuisine ;  receives 
three  hundred  guests.    Address  Point  Pleasant  Beach,  N.  J. 


SPRING  LAKE— Wilburton-by-the-Sea.— Within  fifty  yards 
of  the  surf,  with  unobstructed  view  of  the  ocean  ;  no  marsh  lands  ; 
the  beach  drive,  extending  for  miles  along  the  coast,  passes  in  front 
of  the  house ;  coaches  meet  every  train ;  sanitary  arrangements 
and  ventilation  according  to  the  most  approved  methods ;  pure 
water  supply ;  dining-room  and  ordinary  greatly  enlarged ;  gas ; 
fire-extinguishing  apparatus  for  each  floor  ;  electric  bells  ;  bathing, 
driving,  fishing  and  boating  on  the  lakes,  in  Squan  river  and  Bar- 
negat  bay.  Open  from  June  to  October.  Prices : — by  the  day, 
single  rooms,  $4  ;  double  rooms,  $7  ;  by  the  week,  for  one  person, 
$15  to  $28 ;  •  for  two  persons,  $25  to  $40.  Address  Spring  Lake 
Beach,  N.  J. 

SPRING  LAKE  BEACH— Monmouth  House.— On  a  plateau 
between  the  ocean  and  a  beautiful  fresh  water  lake  several  acres  in 
extent ;  luxunous  in  its  appointments ;  thoroughly  renovated  since 
last  season ;  an  artesian  well  has  been  sunk  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  feet,  giving  an  abundant  supply  of  pure  water,  and  all  the 
modem  sanitary  appliances  have  been  introduced ;  gas,  electric 
bells,  elevator,  hot  and  cold  salt  and  fresh  water  baths  ;  safe  bath- 
ing beach ;  music  hall,  with  daily  orchestral  performances ;  bil- 
liards and  bowling  ;  livery  and  private  stabling ;  receives  five  hun- 
dred guests.  Proprietor,  L.  U.  Maltby,  Spring  Lake  Beach,  N. 
J.,  or  Hotel  Lafayette,  Philadelphia. 


SPRING  LAKE— The  Carleton.— Two  hundred  feet  from  the 
beach,  with  full  ocean  and  lake  view  ;  thorough  sanitary  arrange- 


« 


338  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

ments,  electric  bells,  gas  and  elevator;  pure  water  from  a  new 
artesian  well ;  gas  introduced  into  the  annex,  which  is  now  as  desir- 
able as  the  main  house ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 


ASBURY  PARK— Coleman  House.— Enlarged  by  the  erection 
of  a  brick  building  containing  seventy  guest  chambers  and  a  dining 
hall  sixty  by  eighty  feet,  with  full  ocean  view ;  grounds  of  two  and 
one-fourth  acres,  facing  the  ocean  on  the  east  and  Wesley  Lake 
on  the  south  ;  separate  building,  with  bowling-alleys,  billiard-rooms 
and  ball-room,  connected  with  the  hotel  by  a  covered  bridge  ;  gas 
and  electric  lights ;  artesian  well  four  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet 
in  depth  ;  new  bath-rooms  and  samtary  appliances  throughout ;  full 
orchestra ;  good  livery  service  and  well-appointed  stables  for 
private  teams  ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Prices : — By  the 
day,  $4  and  upward ;  special  rates  by  the  week.  Address  Coleman 
House,  Asbury  Park,  N.  J. 


ASBURY  PARK— West  End  Hotel.— Adjacent  to  the  beach, 
at  Asbury  avenue  and  Kingsley  street,  commanding  the  ocean 
view ;  five  story  building  with  all  the  modern  improvements ; 
rooms  large  and  well  furnished  ;  wide  verandas  and  passages ; 
electric  lights  and  bells,  orchestra;  billiard  parlor ;  receives  four 
hundred  guests. 


ASBURY  PARK — Hotel  Brunswick. — Facing  the  ocean,  with 
spacious  lawn  in  front ;  additions  made  last  year  have  doubled  the 
capacity  of  the  house  and  greatly  improved  its  appearance  and  its 
conveniences ;  new  dining-room  looking  out  upon  the  ocean  ;  large 
rooms,  single  and  in  suites,  with  ocean  view  ;  gas,  electric  bells  ; 
thorough  sanitary  arrangements ;  saddle  horses,  carriages  and 
boats  ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open  from  April  i  to  Sep- 
tember I.    Address  Morgan  &  Parsons,  Asbury  Park,  N.  J. 


AVON-BY-THE-SEA— Hotel  Oxford.— Fronts  on  the  ocean 
and  Shark  river,  with  varied  view  of  sea,  bay  and  river  and 
inland ;  cheerful  rooms ;  perfect  sanitary  arrangements ;  artesian 
water ;  fishing,  crabbing,  sailing ;  surf  and  still  water  bathing ; 
groves  near  at  hand ;  lawn  tennis  courts  and  croquet  grounds ; 
carriages  at  a  moment's  notice ;  pleasant  drives ;  receives  one 
hundred  and  fifty  guests.    Prices ; — By  the  day,  $3.50. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  829 

DEAL  BEACH — Hathaway  House. — Three  miles  south  of 
Long  Branch,  within  five  minutes'  walk  of  the  ocean  and  five 
minutes'  drive  from  the  station  ;  stage  meets  all  the  trains ;  com- 
modious, homelike  ;  good  stabling ;  latest  sanitary  improvements  ; 
shaded  grounds ;  pleasant  country  surroundings ;  fruits  and  vege- 
tables from  the  hotel  farm  ;  safe  beach,  with  surf  bathing ;  receives 
two  hundred  guests.  Open  from  June  to  October.  Prices : — By 
the  day,  $2  to  $3 ;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $15. 


SEA  GIRT — The  Beach  House. — The  old  Stockton  mansion, 
with  extensive  additions,  adapting  it  to  hotel  uses  ;  retains  many 
of  the  old-time  features,  such  as  the  spacious  hearths  and  elaborate 
chimney  pieces.  A  unique  characteristic  of  the  new  house  is  the 
great  veranda  which  overhangs  the  water  and  is  built  to  simulate 
a  ship's  deck.  Hot  and  cold  salt  water  baths  on  everj'  floor ;  steam 
heat,  gas,  electric  bells,  etc.  Proprietor,  Uriah  Welch,  for  many 
years  proprietor  of  the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  New  York ;  indeed  Mr. 
Welch  gave  the  St.  Nicholas  its  national  reputation. 


ATLANTIC  CITY,  which  is  an  attractive  summer  as  well  as 
fashionable  winter  resort,  will  be  found  under  the  latter  head, 
further  on. 


CAPE  MAY — Congress  Hall. — One  ot  the  largest  hotels  on 
the  coast,  luxurious  in  its  appointments ;  every  modem  conveni- 
ence ;  new  plumbing  has  been  introduced,  under  government 
inspection,  conforming  to  the  latest  requirements  of  sanitary 
science  ;  music  by  Hessler's  orchestra ;  receives  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  guests. 

XVI. 

LONG  ISLAND. 


The  characteristic  feature  of  the  south  coast  of  Long  Island  is 
the  long  line  of  insular  or  peninsular  strips  of  sand,  without  vegeta- 
tion, which  are  thrown  out  as  bulwarks  against  the  sea,  enclosing 
bays  from  two  to  eight  miles  wide.  These  beaches,  named  in  order 
from  the  west  end,  are  :  Coney  Island,  Manhattan  Beach,  Rocka- 
way  Beach  (enclosing  Jamaica  bay).  Long  Beach  (facing  Hempstead 


330  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

bay),  Jones  Beach  (facing  South  Oyster  bay),  Oak  Island  and  Great 
South  Beach  (enclosiug  the  Great  South  bay,  East  bay  and  Shinne- 

cock  bay). The  northern  part  of  Long  Island  for  a  considerable 

distance  from  New  York  presents  a  surface  of  wooded  hills,  and 
its  shore  line  is  cut  up  by  deeply-receding  bays  separated  by  bold 
headlands  and  irregular  peninsulas.  These  bays  in  order  from  the 
west  are :  Flushing  bay.  Little  Neck  bay.  Cow  bay,  Hempstead 
harbor,  Oyster  bay,  Huntington  bay,  Smithtown  bay,  beyond 
which  the  coast  presents  a  comparatively  unbroken  line  to  Orient 

Point,  its  eastern  extremity. The    eastern   part  of  the  island 

divides  into  two  irregular  shaped  arms  enclosing  Peconic  bay  and 
Gardiner's  bay,  in  which  lies  Shelter  Island.  The  Long  Island 
resorts  are  all  accessible  by  the  vaJ-ious  lines  and  branches  of  the 
Long  Island  Railroad  (James'  Slip  and  East  Thirty-fourth  street), 
the  eastern  terminus  of  which  is  at  Greenport,  ninety-four  miles 
from  New  York.  Greenport  is  also  reached  by  steamers  from  New 
York,  New  London,  Hartford  and  Saybrook.  For  points  on  the 
Sound  near  the  city  the  steamer  Idlewild  leaves  Peck  Slip  at  4  p.  m. 
and  Thirty-first  street  at  4. 15.  The  Montauk  and  New  York  steam- 
boats (Beekman  street,  East  river)  run  to  Orient  Point,  Greenport, 
Shelter  Island  and  Sag  Harbor. 


FAR  ROCKAWAY — United  States  Hotel. — Forty-five  min- 
utes from  the  City  Hall,  New  York,  by  Wall  street  and  Thirty- 
fourth  street  ferries  ;  stands  on  a  high  bluff  overlooking  the  ocean  ; 
eleven  acres  of  ground  ;  sea  front  of  one  thousand  two  hundred 
feet ;  newly  painted,  decorated  and  furnished  ;  latest  sanitary  im- 
provements introduced  under  the  superintendence  of  an  expert 
sanitary  engineer  ;  drinking  water  from  the  Brooklyn  water  works, 
its  purity  certified  to  by  the  Board  of  Health  ;  still  water  and  surf 
bathing ;  cuisine  under  an  experienced  chef ;  electric  light  and 
bells  ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day, 
$3 ;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $20.  Proprietor,  John  J.  Rogers,  a  well- 
known  restaurateur  at  6  Park  Place,  New  York. 


SHELTER  ISLAND— Manhanset  House.— A  house  of  pictu- 
resque architecture,  encircled  with  wide  verandas ;  large  rooms, 
single  and  in  suites  ;  richly  furnished  ;  thorough  drainage  system ; 
steam  heat ;  elaborate  fire-extinguishing  apparatus  ;  electric  lights 
and  gas ;  ample  bath-houses ;  bowling  and  billiards ;  sail  and  row 
boats ;  orchestra  music ;  excellent  livery  and  stabling,  with  well- 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  331 

trained  saddle-horses ;  receives  three  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Cozy  and  comfortable  cottages.  June  15  to  September  15. 
Prices :  By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $21  and  upward ;  special 
rates  for  two  or  more  weeks.  Proprietors,  Manhanset  Improve- 
ment Co.,  H.  D.  W.  Lawson,  Manager.  The  house  has  been  en- 
larged and  improved  for  the  season  of  1893. 


SHELTER  ISLAND— Prospect  House.— Stands  on  a  hillside 
about  forty  feet  above  the  water,  its  grounds  sloping  to  the  beach ; 
verandas  three  hundred  feet  in  length  ;  electric  lights  in  all  bed- 
rooms; separate  buildmg  with  theatrical  stage,  ball-room,  etc.; 
music  for  the  season  ;  livery  and  stabling ;  approved  sewerage 
system  ;  spring  of  pure  water  on  grounds  ;  archery,  lawn  tennis. 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3.50  and  $4.  Special  terms  for  the  season. 
Address  Shelter  Island  Heights,  Suffolk  Coimty,  N.  Y. 


SHELTER  ISLAND— Bay  View  House.— Rebuilt,  enlarged 
and  newly  furnished ;  electric  bells  throughout ;  large  dining-room 
with  windows  on  four  sides ;  sanitary  plumbing  and  perfect 
drainage  ;  hot'  and  cold  salt  and  fresh  water  baths ;  tennis  court 
and  ball  grounds;  one  hundred  bathing  houses  line  the  shore, 
which  may  be  rented  by  the  week  or  season  ;  bowling  alleys  for 
ladies  and  gentlemen  ;  lawn  tennis  ;  billiard  hall ;  an  annex  cottage 
of  fourteen  rooms,  facing  the  bay,  well  adapted  for  families ; 
saddle-horses  and  experienced  drivers ;  receives  one  hundred 
guests.  Open  June  i  to  September  15.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50 
to  $3 ;  by  the  week,  $15  to  $21  ;  two  persons  in  one  room,  $25  to  $33, 


PINE  PARK — The  Brentwood  and  the  Austral. — A  hand- 
some new  hotel  in  the  central  part  of  Long  Island,  forty-one  miles 
from  New  York  by  the  main  line  of  the  Long  Island  Railroad  ;  ten 
minutes'  walk  from  station  ;  surrounded  by  a  park  laid  out  by  the 
landscape  gardeners,  Olmstead  and  Vaux  ;  from  this  park  extend 
ten  miles  westward  and  thirty-five  miles  eastward  a  belt  eight  miles 
in  width  of  forests  of  pine,  spruce  and  balsam  ;  soil  dry  and  sandy ; 
the  Austral  was  completed  in  1890  ;  plumbing  of  the  latest  approved 
method ;  Otis  elevator,  steam  heat,  and  open  fires ;  music  room, 
bowling  alleys,  billiard  and  smoking  rooms  ;  private  dining-rooms  ; 
roof  promenade ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  The 
Brentwood,  originally  a  private  residence,  modeled  after  a  French 
chateau,  contains  the  furniture,  paintings  and  statuary  of  its  origi- 


8^  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

nal  owner ;  receives  fifty  guests ;  thoroughly  equipped  livery  and 
private  stabling.  Both  houses  open  all  the  year.  Proprietors, 
The  Austral  Company- 

PATCHOGUE— Ocean  Avenue  Hotel.— On  the  Great  Soutli 
bay,  fifty-four  miles  from  Long  Island  City  ;  large  parlors,  smoking 
and  reading-rooms  ;  lighted  by  gas  ;  grounds  illuminated  by  elec- 
tricity ;  wide  verandas  and  plenty  of  shade,  a  grove  extending 
almost  to  the  water's  edge  ;  plank  walk  to  the  bath  houses ;  daily 
trips  across  the  bay  to  the  beaches  ;  livery  and  boarding  stables ; 
hotel  stages  meet  trains  ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Cottages  to  let  with  or  without  board.  Open  May  i  until  October, 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50  to  $3  ;  By  the  week.  $10 to  $15.  Address 
Patchogue.  Long  Island,  N.  Y. 


PATCHOGUE — Laurel  House. — Quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
Great  South  Bay,  with  full  open  view  of  the  bay ;  one  and  one- 
half  hours  from  New  York  ;  renovated  and  improved  for  the 
season  ;  electric  lights  and  bells  and  all  latest  appointments  intro- 
duced ;  running  water  and  toilet  rooms  on  every  floor ;  perfect 
drainage  ;  bowling  alley  and  billiard  rooms  in  separate  building ; 
adjacent  pine  grove  with  grounds  for  tennis,  archery,  etc. ;  commo- 
dious carriage  house  and  stables  ;  orchestral  music  for  the  season. 
Opens  early  in  Jtine. 

WEST  HAMPTON— The  Oneck  House.— One  of  the  oldest 
and  best  known  houses  on  Long  Island,  located  near  the  Great 
South  Bay  ;  quiet,  home-like  atmosphere  in  the  house  ;  lawn  for 
tennis  and  croquet  with  abundant  shade  ;  verandas  on  south  and 
west  sides ;  large  dancing  hall ;  good  livery  and  stabling ;  stages 
to  and  from  stations ;  bathing,  sailing,  rowing ;  excellent  table ; 
receives  one  hundred  guests.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $2.50;  by  the 
week,  $12  to  $15.  Proprietor,  Edwin  C.  Halsey,  West  Hamp- 
ton, L.  I. 

XVII. 

NEW  YORK  AND  CONNECTICUT  SHORE. 


The  north  shore  of  the  Sound  is  hardly  less  irregular  and  deeply 
indented  than  the  opposite  coast  line  of  Long  Island,  and,  like  the 
latter,  presents  a  picturesque  alternation  of  headlands  and  bays. 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.  333 

rocky  ledges  and  curving  beaches.  The  bordering  country  is  hilly 
and  well  wooded,  sheltering  many  beautiful  towns  which  are  much 
favored  as  summer  resorts.  Among  these  are  New  Rochelle, 
seventeen  miles  from  New  York  ;  Mamaroneck  (twenty  miles) ;  Rye 
Beach  (twenty-four  miles) ;  Greenwich,  Conn,  (twenty-eight  miles); 
Stamford  (thirty-three  miles);  Bridgeport  (fifty-six  miles),  where 
the  Housatonic  Valley  debouches ;  New  Haven  (seventy-three 
miles);  Branford  (eighty-one  miles);  Saybrook  (one  hundred  and 
five  miles),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Connecticut  river;  New  London 
(one  hundred  and  twenty-four  miles),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Thames, 
with  many  delightful  intervening  towns.  All  these  are  reached 
from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  New  York,  by  the  New  York  and 
New  Haven  railroad  ;  or  by  boat. 


GREENWICH— Indian  Harbor  Hotel.— On  a  bluff,  with  water 
frontage  of  five  htindred  feet ;  porticoes  one  thousand  feet  in 
length  ;  dining-room  detached  from  the  main  building,  lined  with 
hard  wood,  with  ceiling  thirty  feet  high  ;  separate  kitchen ;  cafe, 
billiard-room  and  bowling-alleys  in  detached  buildings  ;  brick  fire- 
proof stables ;  gas,  steam  heat,  electric  bells ;  pure  filtered  water, 
sanitary  arrangements  approved  by  experts;  sectioned  bathing 
beach  ;  thirty  acres  in  shade  trees  ;  orchestral  music  morning  and 
evening  ;  yachting  and  fishing  ;  twenty  trains  daily  and  daily  steam- 
boat ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Open  from  June  to  October. 
Prices: — By  the  day,  $3.50  ;  by  the  week,  single  room  $18  and  up- 
ward ;  for  two,  $.115  and  upward.     B.  H.  Yard. 


NEW  LONDON— Fort  Griswolu  House.— On  a  bluff  of  the 
Sound,  opposite  Pequot  House,  New  London,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
harbor,  overlooking  the  Thames  boating  course  ;  frontage  of  two 
hundred  and  six  feet,  wth  brick  wing  five  stories  in  height ;  from 
every  room  may  be  seen  an  animated  water  view  ;  verandas  five 
hundred  feet  in  length  ;  children's  dining-room  and  children's  play- 
room ;  steam  heat,  open  fireplaces,  gas,  electric  bells ;  elevator ; 
thorough  plumbing ;  elaborate  fire-extinguishing  apparatus ;  or- 
chestral music  ;  bathing,  boating  and  fishing ;  billiards,  tennis  and 
croquet  lawns  ;  beautiful  drives  ;  steamers  "leave  from  the  railroad 
wharf  directly  opposite  the  station  ;  a  pleasant  sail  of  ten  minutes 
to  the  hotel  wharf ;  cottages  furnished  with  hotel  service.  Open 
from  June  to  September.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $3  to  $4.50 ;  by  the 
week  $17.50  to  $28.    Special  inducements  to  families. 


834  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

NEW  LONDON— Pequot  House  and  Cottages.— At  the  mouth 
of  the  Thames  ;  on  the  grounds  are  forty-four  cottages,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  main  house,  are  supplied  with  gas,  baths,  electric 
bells,  etc. ;  interconnection  by  telephone ;  large  parlors ;  music 
every  afternoon ;  livery  and  private  stables ;  approved  drainage 
system  ;  receives  five  hundred  guests.  Open  early  in  June.  Fur- 
nished cottages  for  the  season  at  moderate  rentals. 


BLACK  ROCK  BEACH— George  Hotel.— Fifteen  minutes 
from  Bridgeport,  on  a  promontory  forming  the  western  boundary 
of  Black  Rock  harbor  ;  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  yachtsmen  ;  wharf 
in  front,  five  hundred  feet,  for  use  of  guests  only ;  beautiful  grounds 
of  fifty  acres,  with  large  lawns ;  'fowling  alleys ;  good  boating, 
fishing  and  bathing  ;  unexcelled  drives  ;  gas,  electric  bells ;  artes- 
ian wells,  thorough  drainage  ;  orchestral  music  three  times  daily ; 
good  livery  and  stabling ;  Wall  street  stock  quotations  received 
hourly;  several  beautiful  cottages,  with  gas,  running  water,  etc., 
for  housekeeping,  or  hotel  board  supplied  ;  receives  three  hundred 
guests  :  commutation  rates  to  New  York  $15  a  month.  Prices: — 
By  the  day,  $3  and  upwards ;  by  the  week,  single  rooms,  $15  to 
$25  ;  double  rooms,  $28  to  $45. 


GREEN'S  FARMS— The  Beachside.— At  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful points  on  Long  Island  sound  ;  house  enlarged  and  improved  ; 
gas,  electric  bells  ;  billiards,  bowling  ;  new  dock  ;  bathing  houses ; 
boats ;  excellent  table.     James  H.  Phipps. 


XVIII. 

NARRAGANSETT    BAY.— SOUTH    MASSACHU- 
SETTS SHORES  AND  ISLANDS. 


The  shore  of  Narragansett  bay,  which  deeply  indents  the  State 
of  Rhode  Island,  is  picturesquely  broken  up  by  headlands  and 
rocks,  between  which  lie  beaches  ;  the  inland  scenery  is  varied  and 
beautiful.  Near  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  five  miles  from  the  ocean,  lies 
Newport,  the  great  fashionable  seaside  resort  of  America.  Opposite 
Newport  is  Narragansett  Pier,  a  much  frequented  resort,  having  a 
gently  sloping  beach  with  light  surf.  Half-way  between  Newport 
aad  Providence  lies  Rocky  Point,  famous  for  its  clambakes  and  its 
observatory,  affording  an  extensive  view  over  the  bay.     For  New- 


SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE.  835 

port— Fall  River  line  of  boats,  Pier  28,  North  River,  or  Shore  line 
of  New  York  and  New  Haven  Railroad  to  Wickford,  thence  by- 
ferry.  For  Narragansett  Pier — New  York  and  New  Haven  Rail- 
road (shore  line)  to  Kensington,  thence  by  branch  railroad  ;  or  by 
Stonington  steamers  to  Stonington,  thence  by  railway  to  Kingston, 
thence  by  branch  road  ;  or  by  Fall  River  boats  to  Newport,  thence 
by  ferry. 

NEWPORT— Ocean  House.— On  Bellevue  avenue,  the  most 
fashionable  thoroughfare  of  the  tity;  convenient  to  the  Casino ; 
wide  and  well-shaded  verandas ;  rooms  single  and  in  suites,  luxuri- 
ously furnished  ;  spacious  and  lofty  corridors,  five  wide  stairways ; 
elevator  ;  grand  salon  and  reception  rooms  opening  on  the  veran- 
das ;  dining-room,  large  and  cool ;  pure,  filtered  water ;  baths ; 
sanitary  engineer  in  constant  attendance  ;  cuisine  of  the  highest 
standard  ;  three  orchestral  concerts  daily,  fully  equipped  livery. 


NARRAGANSETT  PIER— The  Mathewson.  —  One  of  the 
finest  locations  at  the  Pier,  but  a  few  rods  from  the  Casino  and 
beach  ;  hot  and  cold,  fresh  and  sea  water  baths  ;  separate  elevators 
for  passengers  and  baggage ;  electric  lights  and  electric  bells  in 
every  room  ;  perfect  sanitation  ;  pure  spring  water ;  French  cuisine; 
rooms  single  or  in  suites  ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 
Prices: — By  the  day,  $3  to  $5;  by  the  week,  $21  to  $40.  Proprietor, 
S.  W.  Mathewson,  Narragansett  Pier.  R.  I. 


WATCH  HILL,  R.  I.— Ocean  House.— Hotel  stands  on  the 
highest  ground,  overlooking  the  ocean  and  part  of  Narragansett 
Bay — noted  for  the  tonic  effect  of  its  invigorating  sea  air ;  all  modem 
conveniences ;  best  sanitary  appliances ;  pure  filtered  water ; 
abundance  of  milk,  cream  and  fresh  vegetables  from  large  farm  ; 
music ;  outdoor  amusements ;  bathing,  fishing  and  sailing ;  re- 
ceives two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  week,  $17.50 
to  $30  for  single  rooms  ;  $35  to  $50  for  double  rooms  ;  special  rates 
for  the  season  and  reduced  rates  for  June  and  September. 

WESTPORT  POINT— Hotel  Westport.— A  point  of  land  be- 
tween the  east  and  west  branches  of  Westport  River,  an  ocean 
inlet  half  way  between  Narragansett  Bay  and  Buzzard's  Bay,  faced 
by  Horseneck  Beach  ;  fourteen  to  sixteen  miles  by  stage  from  Fall 
River  or  New  Bedford,  a  new  house  on  high  ground,  commanding 


886  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

ocean  views  from  Block  Island  to  Martha's  Vineyard;  wide  halls 
and  stairways  ;  electric-bells  ;  bath  rooms  ;  perfect  drainage  ; 
guests  conveyed  to  and  from  the  beach  free  of  charge ;  well- 
equipped  boats  and  competent  skippers ;  sea  bass,  tautog,  perch 
and  other  fish  abound  ;  sword  fish  off  the  Point.  Prices  : — By  the 
day,  for  less  than  one  week,  $3 ;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $16;  special 
rates  for  the  season,  or  when  two  persons  occupy  one  room. 


BLOCK  ISLAND— OcE.\N  View  Hotei,.— Ten  miles  off  the 
coast  of  Rhode  Island  ;  accessible  by  steamer  from  New  London  ; 
telegraphic  connection  with  the  mainland  ;  gas,  electric  bells ; 
music  hall,  with  stage  ;  verandas?  one-third  of  a  mile  in  lengtli ; 
surf  and  still-water  bathing  ;  hot  sea  baths ;  cable  to  mainland ; 
string  and  brass  orchestra ;  receives  five  hundred  guests.  Prices: — 
By  the  day,  before  July  15  and  after  September  i,  $2.50  to  $4 ;  after 
July  12  to  end  of  August,  $3  to  $4.50  ;  special  rates  for  the  season. 


BLOCK  ISLAND — Hotel  Manisses.  —  Near  the  steamboat 
landing,  with  fine  ocean  view  ;  thorough  drainage  and  most  im- 
proved system  of  plumbing ;  fire  hose  on  every  floor ;  electric 
bells  and  other  modern  appointments  ;  music  hall  and  orchestra ; 
livery  and  boarding  stables  ;  receives  two  hundred  and  fifty  guests. 


NANTUCKET  ISLAND— The  Springfield.- Thirty  miles  off 
the  coast ;  near  the  northern  limit  of  the  Gulf  stream  ;  oldest  sum- 
mer resort  hotel  on  the  island  ;  on  the  shores  of  Nantucket  harbor 
within  five  minutes'  walk  of  steamboat  landing,  the  island  railway 
station,  post  office,  etc.;  the  main  building  recently  enlarged; 
lighted  with  gas  and  electricity ;  running  water  and  closets  on 
every  floor ;  heated  by  steam  ;  electric  bells,  etc. ;  two  annexes 
supplied  with  the  same  modern  conveniences ;  dining-room  separ- 
ate from  the  houses,  and  lighted  by  electricity ;  telephone  connec- 
tions ;  submarine  cable  to  the  mainh  nd  ;  hard,  smooth  beach  with 
bath-houses.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices: — By  the  day,  $2.50  to 
$3.50  ;  special  rates  by  the  season  and  in  June  and  September. 


NANTUCKET— The  Nantucket.— Situated  directly  on  the 
beach,  the  parlor  on  the  second  floor  commanding  a  water  view  on 
four  sides  ;  stage  for  theatrical  and  other  entertainments ;  excur- 
sions by  the  hotel  steam  yacht. 


SUMMER    RESORT  GUIDE.  337 

XIX. 

EASTERN  SHORE. 


The  Eastern  Shore,  by  which  name  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the 
United  States  north  of  Boston  is  designated,  derives  its  broken  and 
picturesque  character  from  the  fact  that  the  mountam  system, 
which  farther  to  the  south  recedes  from  the  coast,  here  abuts  upon 
or  dips  down  to  the  ocean's  edge,  producing  deep  indentations, 
rocky  headlands  and  numerous  outlying  islands.  Notable  among 
these  islands  is  Mount  Desert,  in  Frenchman's  Bay  on  the  coast  of 
Maine,  an  assemblage  of  mountam  peaks,  the  highest  of  which 
reaches  two  thousand  feet.  The  Eastern  Shore  is  interspersed 
with  beaches  affording  good  surf  bathing.  Accessible  from  Boston 
by  Boston  and  Maine  Railway  and  its  branches.  Steamers,  run- 
ning from  Boston  to  Portland,  touch  at  various  landings. 


NAHANT — Hood  Hotel. — Largest  house  in  Nahant ;  pictur- 
esquely situated  on  elevated  ground  on  the  south  side  of  the  pro- 
montory, a  short  distance  from  the  steamboat  landing  and  in  the 
neighborhood  of  many  elegant  summer  residences ;  large  airy 
rooms  ;  extensive  piazzas ;  excellent  cuisine  and  service  ;  tennis ; 
bathing  and  fishing ;  rooms,  single  or  in  suite  ;  good  livery  and 
stable  ;  excellent  cuisine  and  table  service  ;  under  the  present 
management  for  the  last  four  seasons ;  receives  one  hundred 
gtiests.  Open  June  15  to  September  15.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3 ; 
by  the  week.  $15  to  $25  :  children  under  14,  half  rates. 


MARBL>EHEAL> — The  Nanepashemet.  —  Fifteen  miles  from 
Boston  by  Eastern  Railroad  ;  on  Great  Neck,  a  rocky  peninsula  con- 
nected by  a  narrow  beach  with  the  mainland  ;  highest  point  be- 
tween the  ocean  and  Marblehead  Harbor  ;  rendezvous  of  the  East- 
em  Yacht  Club ;  every  room  has  ocean  view ;  wide  verandas  on 
three  sides ;  gas,  electric  bells,  running  water  and  perfect  drain- 
age ;  yachting,  boating,  tennis,  bathing,  shore  and  deep  sea  fish- 
ing ;  fine  walks  and  drives  ;  telegraph  ;  hvery  and  private  stabling; 
receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  gfuests.  Open  in  June.  Prices  : — By 
the  day,  $3.50  to  $4 ;  special  rates  by  the  season,  or  for  one  month 


338  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

or  more  preceding  August  i.  Proprietor,  Dr.  Ammi  Brown, 
Marblehead  Neck,  Mass.  Address,  until  June  i,  486  Columbus 
avenue,  Boston,  Mass. 

BEACHMONT — Hotel  Beachmont. — A  select  family  hotel, 
twenty  minutes  distant  from  Boston  by  half-hourly  trains  of 
Boston,  Revere  and  Lynn  Railroad  ;  within  easy  reach  of  the  sea- 
side resorts  on  north  and  south  shores  of  Boston  Bay  ;  refurnished 
and  refitted  with  electric  lights,  hot  and  cold  water  baths,  etc.; 
broad  piazzas  on  three  sides  ;  ample,  well  shaded  grounds  ;  lawn 
tennis;  beautiful  country  drives.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50;  by 
the  week,  for  the  season,  $7  to  $14.^  Address  Beachmont,  Mass. 


MAGNOLIA— The  Blvnman. — Situated  on  high  ground,  with  fine 
views  of  the  ocean  and  surrounding  country,  combining  sea-shore  and 
woodland  scenery  ;  twenty-seven  miles  from  Boston  by  the  Boston 
&  Maine  Railroad  ;  carriages  to  all  trains  ;  spacious  piazzas  ;  airy, 
comfortable  rooms ;  water  on  every  floor  ;  gas  ;  open  fires ;  new 
plumbing  and  perfect  drainage  ;  pure  water  and  medicinal  spring 
on  grounds ;  table  supplied  from  farm  connected  with  the  house  ; 
fine  sandy  beach  for  surf  bathing ;  boating ;  fishing  ;  pleasant 
drives.  Prices  : — By  the  week,  for  rooms,  $6  to  $14 ;  additional  for 
board,  $9  for  each  person.  Address  Magnolia,  Essex  County, 
Mass. 


NANTASKET  BEACH— Rockland  House.— On  high  ground 
commanding  extensive  ocean  view;  all  modern  appointments  ;  gas, 
elevator,  steam  heat ;  pure  water  and  perfect  drainage ;  bath 
rooms,  steam  laundry  ;  billiard  hall,  music  and  ball  room  ;  orches- 
tral music  ;  telegraph  office ;  fully  equipped  stable ;  surf  and  still 
water  bathing,  boating  and  fishing ;  beautiful  drives  and  walks  ; 
tennis  courts  and  ball  ground ;  hourly  trains  and  boats  from 
Boston  ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4  ; 
by  the  week,  $17.50  to  $25  for  single  rooms ;  $30  to  $45  for  double 
rooms  ;  special  rates  to  families. 


LAND'S  END — Turk's  Head  Inn. — At  the  extremity  of  Cape 
Ann ;  all  modern  conveniences ;  recent  improvements  include  a 
casino  for  music  and  dancing,  new  stables  for  tally-ho  coaches 
which  will  run  from  the  hotel,  and  new  tennis  court  orchestra  en- 
gaged for  the  season. 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  339 

NEWCASTLE— The  Wentworth.— Three  miles  from  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.,  on  an  island  rising  seventy-five  feet  above  the  sea  ; 
extensive  and  varied  views  seaward  and  inland  from  the  two  hun- 
dred sleeping  rooms  and  the  veranda  ;  the  latter  fifteen  feet  wide 
and  one  thousand  feet  long,  the  former  large  and  well-furnished  ; 
steam  elevator  ;  boating,  bathing,  fishing, -for  which  there  is  ample 
equipment ;  steam  yacht,  provided  for  ocean  and  river  excursions ; 
a  broad  lagoon,  with  an  area  of  fifty  acres,  affording  safe  boating, 
and  upon  which  a  small  steamboat  plies ;  music  hall  for  dancing, 
concerts,  etc. ;  band  of  twenty  musicians  engaged  for  the  season  ; 
livery  and  private  stabling ;  telegraph  stock  reports  from  New 
York  and  Boston  by  independent  wires.  Prices : — By  the  day, 
$4.50 ;  by  the  week,  single  rooms,  $25  to  $43  ;  for  two,  $40  to  $56. 
Portsmouth,  N.  H. 


ISLES  OF  SHOALS— The  Oceanic— Group  of  nine  beautiful 
islands,  ten  miles  off  the  coast  from  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  whence 
steamers  for  the  islands  make  four  trips  daily,  connecting  with 
trains.  The  Oceanic  is  on  the  highest  point  of  Star  Island,  whose 
shores  are  especially  bold  and  grand ;  all  rooms  have  an  ocean 
view  ;  gas,  electric  bells  ;  open  fire-places  in  parlor  and  office  ;  ball- 
room ;  billiard-room,  bowling-alley,  circulating  library ;  hot  and 
cold  salt  and  fresh  water  baths  on  every  floor ;  milk  and  cream  from 
a  special  mainland  farm ;  orchestra  for  the  season ;  fishing  and 
other  boats  manned  by  experienced  skippers ;  no  flies  or  mosqui- 
toes ;  freedom  from  fog  and  dampness ;  temperature  remarkable 
for  its  equability,  ranging  about  seventy  degrees ;  the  hotel  gprounds 
include  the  entire  island,  the  native  proprietors  having  been 
bought  out.  Open  June  to  October.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3.50 ;  by 
the  week,  $21 ;  by  the  month,  $17.50  a  week.  Proprietors, 
Laig'hton  Brothers,  Isles  of  Shoals,  N.  H. 


ISLES  OF  SHOALS— Appledore  House.— Appledore,  the 
largest  of  these  islands,  has  an  extent  of  three  hundred  and  fifty 
acres,  and  rises  in  parallel  ridges  seventy-five  feet  above  the  sea. 
In  the  valley  thus  formed  are  the  Appledore  House  and  its  group 
of  attractive  cottages ;  a  shallow  lake  in  front  of  the  house  offers 
safe  bathing  and  boating  for  children  ;  gas,  electric  bells,  etc. ;  fleet 
of  boats;  bowling  and  billiards ;  tennis  grounds ;  music  and  dancing 
hall,  with  stage,  and  well-selected  orchestra ;  hot  salt  water  baths ; 
physician  in  attendance ;  steam  ferry  makes  half -hourly  trips  to* 


340  SUMMER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

Star  Island  ;  connection  by  steamer  with  Boston  one  trip  daily ; 
with  Portsmouth  four  trips  daily  ;  receives  five  hundred  guests. 
Open  June  20  to  September  20.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3.75  ;  by  the 
week,  $3.25  per  day;  two  weeks,  $3  per  day  ;  four  weeks  or  more, 
$2.50  a  day.  Preprietors,  Laighton  Brothers,  Isles  of  Shoals, 
N.  H. 

KITTERY  POINT— Hotel  Pocahontas.— On  GeiTish  Island 
— an  island  of  two  thousand  acres  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pisca- 
taqua  river ;  hotel  stands  on  Pocahontas  Point — a  promontory 
having  on  one  side  a  bold  rocky  coast,  on  the  other  a  hard,  smooth 
beach  ;  ocean  or  river  and  inland  view  from  every  window  ;  sanitary 
effects  of  the  sea  air  and  pine  woods  combined ;  parlors,  dining  and 
smoking-rooms,  with  open  fire-places  ;  perfect  drainage ;  grounds 
of  one  hundred  and  eighty  acres  ;  a  steamboat  and  carriages  will 
connect  with  the  morning  and  evening  trains  at  Portsmouth,  half 
an  hour  distant.  Prices  : — By  the  day, $3  ;  by  the  week,  $12  to  $21 ; 
special  rates  for  June  and  September.  Address  Kittery  Point, 
Maine. 

BAR  HARBOR — The  Louisburg. — The  leading  resort  of  Mount 
Desert  Island,  combining  the  cottage  features  of  Newport  with  the 
hotel  life  of  the  great  watering  places  ;  the  village,  situated  on  the 
shore  at  the  base  of  a  group  of  mountains  ;  water  supply  drawn 
from  a  mountain  lake  fed  by  living  springs ;  perfect  drainage  in 
connection  with  Bar  Harbor's  new  and  approved  system  of  sewer- 
age ;  elevator ;  lighted  throughout  by  electricity ;  wide  verandas 
and  roof  promenade  ;  receives  two  hundred  guests ;  highest  stan- 
dard of  cuisine ;  music  by  a  Boston  orchestra.  Open  July  i  to 
September  15.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  before  July  15  and  after  Sep- 
tember I,  $4  and  $4.50  ;  from  July  15  to  September  i,  $5  ;  by  the 
week,  $25  and  upwards ;  special  rates  by  the  season.  Address  Bar 
Harbor,  Mount  Desert,  Me. 

CASTINE — The  Acadian. — A  pretty  village  with  wide  streets 
and  fine  residences  on  a  peninsula  projecting  into  Penobscot  bay  ; 
accessible  by  the  Bar  Harbor  steamer  from  Portland  ;  the  locality 
is  famous  for  its  traditions  of  old  Indian  and  colonial  wars ;  its 
summer  attractions  are  its  seclusion,  picturesque  surroundings 
and  boating  and  fishing  facilities,  The  Acadian  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated by  the  sea  ;  large  rooms  with  best  beds ;  electric  bells  ;  pure 
spring  water.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50 ;  by  the  week,  $10  to  $15. 
Proprietor,  Acadian  Hot?}  Company, 


SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE.  341 

SORRENTO — Hotel  Sorrento. — In  Frenchman's  bay,  seven 
miles  from  Bar  Harbor  ;  a  newly  established  resort,  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  shore  and  laid  out  in  attractive  cottage  sites  by  the 
"  Frenchman's  Bay  and  Mount  Desert  Land  and  Water  Company," 
which  has  availed  itself  of  the  services  of  skilful  architects  and 
landscape  gardeners.  Hotel  newly  built,  with  all  modem  appoint- 
ments ;  lighted  throughout  with  electricity ;  complete  livery ; 
choice  cuisine. 


XX. 

THE  WEST. 

DENVER,  COLORADO— Hotel  Metropole.— At  the  foot 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  a  dry  climate  long  known  for  its  re- 
markable remedial  qualities  in  pulmonary  complaints.  The  hotel, 
a  new  structure,  is  located  on  the  principal  avenue  in  Denver,  con- 
venient to  both  the  business  and  residence  portion  of  the  city ; 
accessible  to  two  cable  lines ;  an  imposing  building  in  the  Ionian 
style,  nine  stories  high,  built  of  the  finest  red  pressed  brick,  terra- 
cotta and  electro-plated  metal  steel  beams  used  throughout ;  parti- 
tions, floors  and  ceilings  of  hollow  tile  ;  stairways  and  elevators  of 
iron  and  bronze,  making  it  absolutely  fire-proof ;  intended  for  an 
elegant  home  and  resting  place  for  the  large  number  of  travellers, 
tourists  and  health  seekers  that  now  visit  Denver ;  appointments, 
cuisine  and  service  cf  the  best  kind.  Restaurant  and  cafe  a  la 
carte.  Rates  according  to  the  accommodations  desired,  ranging 
from  $1.50  per  day  upward.     Managers,  Bush  &  Kappler. 


DENVER,  COL. — Brown  Pal.\ce  Hotel. — A  nine-story  struc- 
ture, in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  decorated  and  furnished 
throughout  with  lavish  expenditure,  frontage  of  eight  hundred 
and  twenty  feet ;  the  entire  interior  composed  of  iron  columns 
and  steel  beams,  supporting  hollow  tile  partitions,  and  flooring 
of  encaustic  tile,  making  it  practically  fire-proof ;  the  rotunda  an 
open  court  fifty-six  feet  square,  rising  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  to  roof  of  the  eighth  floor,  and  surrounded  by  balconies ;  a 
panorama  embracing  three  hundred  miles  of  mountain  scenery 
seen  from  the  windows  of  the  hotel ;  four  hundred  rooms,  a  large 
number  en  suite,  with  baths,  every  room  facing  the  street ;  artesian 


342  SUMMER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

water,  electric  lights ;  most  approved  sanitary  methods,  and  all  the 
latest  devices  for  comfort  and  convenience.  Conducted  on  the 
American  plan.  Prices  :  By  the  day,  $3  to  $5,  according  to  loca- 
tion. Managers,  William  H.  Bush  and  N.  Maxcy  Tabor,  Denver, 
Col. 


ST.  CLAIR,  MICH.— SoMERViLLE  Springs.— On  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Clair  river,  about  fifty  miles  north  of  Detroit,  with  view 
of  the  river  and  surrounding  country  for  miles  ;  all  modern  con- 
veniences ;  steam  elevator ;  electric  lights  in  every  room ;  excel- 
lent fishing,  hunting  and  boating ;  delightful  drives  ;  mineral 
springs  possessing  valuable  medicinal  properties  on  the  grounds : 
receives  two  hundred  guests.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices  : — By  the 
day,  $2  to  $2.50;  special  rates  for  season.  Address  Somerville 
Springs  Company,  St.  Clair,  Mich. 


MINNETONKA  BEACH,  MINN.— Hotel  Lafayette.— Located 
on  elevated  plateau,  on  northern  shore  of  lake  ;  a  house  of  the 
first  class  and  one  of  the  largest  hotels  of  summer  resort  in  the 
Northwest ;  one-fifth  of  a  mile  in  length ;  five  acres  of  floor  sur- 
face ;  reached  by  hourly  trains  from  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis ; 
high  standard  of  service  in  every  department ;  electric  lights ; 
gas ;  elevator  ;  steam  heat ;  perfect  drainage  ;  boating,  sailing, 
rowing  and  fishing ;  tennis  grounds  ;  wide  veranda  and  balconies  ; 
lawn  with  shrubbery  and  forest  trees  ;  pure  and  dry  air ;  orchestra, 
daily  concerts,  evening  hops ;  receives  eight  hundred  guests.  Open 
in  June.  Prices  : — by  the  day,  $4  to  $5.  Special  rates  for  week,  or 
season.  Address  E.  V.  Holcombe.  Manager,  St.  Paul,  Minn., 
until  June  1,  then  at  Minnetonka  Beach. 


WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE 
1893-4. 


INDEX  TO  CHAPTERS. 


I, — Florida  Peninsula. 
II. — Georgia  Uplands. 
III. — Georgia  Seaside. 
IV. — South  Carolina  Pine  Lands. 
V. — North  Carolina  Mountains. 
VI. — Virginia  Mountains. 
VII. — Virginia  Seaside. 
VIII.— Maryland. 
IX. — New  Jersey  Seaside. 
X. — New  Jersey  Pine  Belt. 
XI. — Island  Resorts. 
XII. — California. 
XIII. — The  Southwest. 


344  WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

I. 

FLORIDA  PENINSULA. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE.— Oldest  of  American  cities,  still  retaining 
many  of  its  early  Spanish  features ;  visited  by  all  Florida  tourists 
and  frequented  by  health-seekers  ;  on  the  coast,  forty  miles  south 
of  the  mouth  of  St.  John's  river  and  thirty-three  miles  from  Jackson- 
ville from  which  it  is  accessible  by  railway. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE— The  Ponce  de  Leon.— This  celebrated 
hotel — a  masterpiece  of  architecture — attracts  to  itself  as  well  as 
St.  Augustine,  throngs  of  Florida  visitors.  Built  massively  of 
gray  shell  concrete,  elaborately  trimmed  with  brick  and  terra  cotta 
ornamentations  in  the  Spanish  Renaissance  style  of  architecture  ; 
with  overhanging  balconies,  grand  interior  courts,  arcade  vistas 
and  a  rotunda  four  stories  in  height,  supported  by  Caryatides 
and  a  forest  of  oaken  columns,  with  a  dome  rich  in  allegorical 
painting ;  with  towers  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  high. 
These  are  a  few  of  the  features  of  a  house  it  is  impossible  to_  de- 
scribe in  a  brief  paragraph,  the  attractiveness  of  which  has  in- 
creased rather  than  diminished  during  its  five  successful  seasons. 
The  building  covers  nearly  six  acres ;  the  grand  drawing  room  is 
one  hundred  and  five  by  sixty  feet;  the  dining  room  extends  one 
hundred  feet  on  either  side  of  a  domed  centre,  and  accommodates 
seven  hundred  guests.. 


The  Alcazar,  an  adjunct  of  the  Ponce  de  Leon,  but  in  itself  a 
complete  hotel,  is  planned  on  the  same  scale  of  magnificence  and 
built  after  the  same  architectural  style.  Its  special  features  are 
its  concert  rooms,  cafe,  casino,  tennis  courts,  Russian  and  Turkish 
baths,  and  a  bathing  pool  one  hundred  and  fifty  by  seventy  feet, 
over  which  are  galleries  for  dancing  ;  receives  four  hundred  guests ; 
twenty-five  acres  of  ornamented  grounds,  luxuriant  in  semi-tropi- 
cal foliage,  surround  these  hotels.  Prices,  at  the  Ponce  de  Leon  : — 
By  the  day,  $5  and  upwards ;  at  the  Alcazar,  $4  and  upwards ; 
special  rates  by  the  week.  Manager,  O.  D.  Seavey,  also  manager 
of  Hotel  Champlain.  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE— Hotel  Cordova.— Faces  the  Ponce  de  Leon 
and  the  Alcazar,  modeled  on  the  rich  Spanish  architecture  of  the 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  345 

fifteenth  century ;  built  massively  of  shell  concrete,  ornamented  on 
its  front  fa9ade  with  tiles  imported  from  Valencia,  which  also  deco- 
rate the  numerous  stone  balconies ;  the  lower  range  of  windows 
set  off  with  the  Angelo  kneeling  balconies,  after  those  of  Seville, 
relieved  by  flowing  draperies  in  warm  colors ;  the  imposing  en- 
trance, suggested  by  the  celebrated  "  Puerto  del  Sol '"  at  Toledo, 
leads  into  an  open  court,  perfumed  by  orange  trees  and  adorned 
by  new  and  beautiful  tropical  plants  ;  adjoining  the  drawing-room 
is  a  "  sala  del  sol "  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  long,  with  pavement 
of  tiles  and  roof  of  glass,  supported  by  many  columns  ;  a  hall  of  di- 
version decorated  in  Saracenic  style  ;  two  hundred  guest  chambers 
in  suites,  with  private  parlors  and  baths  ;  gas,  electric  lights,  sun 
parlor,  elevator  and  all  the  appliances  of  modem  hotels  ;  the  gov- 
ernment grounds  facing  the  Cordova  have  been  laid  out  artistically 
to  form  Cordova  Park  ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — 
By  the  day,  $4.00 ;  special  rates  by  the  week.  Manager,  O.  D. 
Seavey,  also  manager  of  Hotel  Champlain,  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE— Hotel  St.  Marco.— One  of  the  largest  and 
best  appointed  of  St.  Augustine's  hotels ;  in  the  midst  of  thirty 
acres  of  handsome  grounds;  situated  opposite  the  old  Spanish 
fort,  on  highest  ground  in  the  city ;  many  improvements  and  a 
thorough  renovation  last  year.  Every  room  open  to  sunlight  and 
good  air ;  spacious  verandas  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  bay ;  gas  and  modern  appointments ;  unexcelled  facilities  for 
boating,  bathing,  hunting,  riding  and  fishing ;  a  four-horse  stage 
meets  all  trains  ;  receives  five  hundred  guests.  Prices : — By  the 
day,  $4.50  to  $5.  Special  weekly  rates.  Managers  :  Ainslie  & 
Webster,  St.  Augustine,  Fla.  Managers  also  of  the  Maplewood, 
White  Mountains,  N.  H. 


ON  THE  HALIFAX— The  Ormond.— Eighty  miles  south  ot 
St.  Augustine,  on  the  Halifax  peninsula,  a  strip  of  land  half  a  mile 
wide  between  the  ocean  and  "the  Halifax,"  an  ocean  inlet;  the 
peninsula  is  rich  in  semi-tropical  vegetation  ;  accessible  by  railway 
in  two  and  a  half  hours  from  St.  Augustine  ;  the  starting  point  by 
morning  boat  from  hotel  wharf  for  the  east  coast  trip  of  two  hun- 
dred miles  in  smooth  land-locked  waters  to  Rockledge  and  Lake 
Worth  ;  house  enlarged  and  many  improvements  added,  making  it 
one  of  the  best  appointed  hotels  in  the  South  ;  stands  amid  orange 
groves ;  large  bedrooms  furnished  in  modern  style ;  gas,  electric 
bells,  steam  heat  and  open  fire-places  ;  two  artesian  wells  and  two 


346  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

immense  cisterns  for  filtered  rain  water ;  thorough  sanitary  ar- 
rangements ;  a  large  casino  contains  ball-room,  theatre,  billiard, 
pool  rooms,  bowling-alley,  etc.;  good  fishing,  surf  bathing  and 
driving  ;  skillful  service  by  attendants  brought  from  White  Moun- 
tain hotels ;  no  bar.  Open  December  to  May.  Prices  : — By  the 
day,  $4.50  to  $5.00.  The  Coquina,  a  smaller  house  under  same 
management,  on  Ormond  Beach.  Prices — By  the  week,  $15  to  $i8. 
Proprietors,  Anderson  &  Price,  Ormond,  Volusia  County,  Fla. 


JACKSONVILLE.— The  largest  city  of  Florida ;  twenty-five 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  ;  much  frequented  by  win- 
ter tourists,  and  the  point  of  departure  for  most  of  the  leading 
Florida  resorts ;  accessible  by  Atlantic  Coast  Line  Fast  Mail 
Route,  whose  vestibuled  train  of  drawing-room,  sleeping,  dining 
and  library  cars,  heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  electricity,  leaves 
Pennsylvania  station,  Jersey  City,  Monday,  Wednesday  and 
Friday,  at  9.30  a.m.,  and  arrives  at  Jacksonville  on  the  following 
day  at  3.00  p.m.;  St.  Augfustine  at  4.15  p.m. 


JACKSONVILLE— The  St.  James.— One  of  the  largest  hotels  ir 
the  State,  with  piazza  front  of  three  hundred  and  fifteen  feet,  de- 
lightfully situated,  facing  the  city  park  ;  steam  heated  halls  and 
corridors  ;  open  fire-places  in  rooms  ;  gas,  electric  bells,  elevator  ; 
bath-rooms  on  every  floor ;  rooms  in  suites  with  private  bath, 
large  and  elegant  parlors  and  dining-room ;  grounds  lighted  by 
electricity  ;  filtered  rain  water  for  drinking ;  thorough  plumbing ; 
orchestral  music  for  the  season ;  well-equipped  livery ;  receives 
five  hundred  guests.  Prices  :— By  the  day,  $4.  Proprietor,  J.  R. 
Campbell ;  Manager,  C.  O.  Chamberlain. 


JACKSONVILLE— Windsor  Hotel.  —  Fronts  two  hundred 
feet  on  the  city  park ;  elegant  suites  with  private  baths  ;  elevator, 
steam  heat,  gas ;  thorough  plumbing,  with  special  sewer  to  the 
river ;  closets  copiously  flushed  every  two  or  three  minutes  by  water 
from  an  artesian  well ;  billiards  ;  best  beds  and  latest  styles  of  fur- 
niture ;  parlor  one  hundred  by  forty  feet ;  orchestral  music  after- 
noon and  evening ;  receives  four  hundred  guests.  Open  from  De- 
cember to  May.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $4  and  upwards ;  by  the 
week,  $21  and  upwards ;  same  advantages  at  same  prices  as  at 
Northern  summer  resorts  equally  attractive.  Proprietor,  A.  H. 
Palmer. 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  847 

WINTER  PARK— The  Seminole.— A  park  of  four  thousand 
acres  of  high,  rolling  land,  covered  with  pines,  which  stand  far 
enough  apart  to  permit  teams  to  be  driven  anywhere  at  will ;  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  south  of  Jacksonville  on  the  South  Flori- 
da Railroad  ;  forty  miles  from  the  Atlantic  and  eighty  miles  from 
the  g^lf  coast.  The  hotel  stands  between  two  lakes,  half  a  mile 
apart,  the  grounds  sloping  to  the  shores  of  both ;  a  steamboat 
makes  a  tour  of  the  lakes  twice  daily ;  from  the  roof  promenade 
eleven  lakes  may  be  seen  sparkling  amid  the  pines  and  orange 
trees ;  verandas  five  hundred  and  sixty-seven  feet  long,  from  six- 
teen to  twenty-four  feet  wide  ;  steam  heat,  gas,  elevator,  electric 
bells,  fire  alarms  ;  hot  and  cold  water  and  steam  baths ;  large  bed- 
rooms, single  and  in  suites,  many  of  them  with  open  fire-places  and 
private  baths ;  fishing,  rowing,  sailing,  billiards,  bowling ;  fine  or- 
chestra day  and  evening  ;  excellent  cuisine ;  same  mail  facilities  at 
Winter  Park  as  at  St.  Augustine  and  Jacksonville.  House  accomo- 
dates four  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  special  terms 
for  two  weeks  or  longer.  Resident  manager,  D.  P.  Hathaway. 
New  York  ofl6ce,  12  West  Twenty-third  street. 


GREEN  COVE  SPRINGS.— The  village  of  Green  Cove  is  situ- 
ated on  high  ground,  bordering  the  St.  John's,  thirty  miles  south 
of  Jacksonville,  at  a  point  where  the  river  has  a  width  of  five  miles. 
The  spring  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name  is  of  warm  sul- 
phur water  and  gushes  up  in  a  grove  of  live  oaks,  palmettos  and 
magnolias  at  the  rate  of  three  thousand  gallons  per  minute,  at  a 
temperature  of  Seventy-eight  deg^rees.  The  water  is  conducted 
into  four  separate  swimming  pools,  twenty-five  by  seventy-five 
feet,  bordered  by  dressing-rooms.  Accessible  by  daily  steamer  or 
by  railway  from  Jacksonville. 


GREEN  COVE  SPRINGS— Hotel  St.  Elmo.— Beautifully 
situated  on  west  bank  of  the  St.  John's  river,  forming  a  delightful 
and  homelike  retreat  for  the  invalid  or  those  who  are  seeking  rest ; 
house  provided  with  an  artesian  well  and  all  modem  conveniences ; 
a  private  bath-house  for  use  of  the  gfuests  secured  at  the  medical 
Green  Cove  spring.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3 ;  by  the  week,  $12  to 
$22.     Proprietor,  P.  A.  Borden ;  manager,  Judson  L.  Scott. 


PALATKA. — On  the  St.  John's,  sixty  miles  from  Jacksonville 
and  thirty  miles  from  St,  Augustine ;  easily  accessible  by  boat 


348'  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

and  train ;  it  has  gas  works,  water  works,  good  brick  and  plank 
walks  and  streets  shaded  with  palm,  oak  and  sour  orange  trees ; 
called  often  "  the  gem  city  of  the  St.  John's." 


PALATKA — Putnam  House. — An  attractive  and  comfortable 
winter  home,  recently  refitted  and  improved  ;  occupying  an  entire 
square,  with  spacious  interior  court  filled  with  flowers  and  plants ; 
broad  verandas ;  abundant  supply  of  pure  soft  water ;  elevator, 
steam  heat,  parlor  suites,  rooms  with  bath  attached ;  boating, 
fishing,  duck  and  alligator  shooting  ;  tennis  and  croquet  grounds ; 
frequent  excursions  by  steamers  to  points  of  interest ;  telegraph 
office  in  hotel.  Prices : — $4  per  day  and  upward ;  one  hundred 
pleasant  rooms  at  $21  per  week  for  each  person.  Manager,  Wil- 
liam Catto,  Palatka,  Fla. 


TAMPA — The  Inn  and  Restaurant. — Terminus,  on  the  Gult, 
of  South  Florida  railway ;  point  of  departure  of  the  Plant  line  of 
steamers  for  Key  West  and  Havana.  The  Inn,  a  beautiful  Queen 
Anne  cottage  erected  on  piles  over  the  waters  of  the  bay,  of  which 
it  commands  lovely  views ;  dining-room  with  glass  on  three  sides ; 
comfortable  in  its  appointments  either  for  a  temporary  sojourn  en 
route  for  Cuba  or  for  a  prolonged  stay  ;  every  facility  for  aquatic 
sport.  Open  all  the  year.  Manager,  J.  H.  King.  New  York  office, 
12  West  Twenty-third  street. 


TAMPA — Tampa  Bay  Hotel. — A  magnificent  new  structure,  of 
Moorish  design,  with  broad  galleries  along  the  front  of  the  house, 
and  grand  hallway  seven  hundred  feet  long  ;  parlors  and  drawing- 
room  decorated  in  palatial  style  ;  a  rotunda  seventy-eight  feet 
square  with  massive  doors  of  Spanish  mahogany ;  music  room ; 
cuisine  and  table  service  equal  to  any  hotel  in  the  world ;  every 
modern  convenience  for  the  enjoyment  of  winter  life  in  a  balmy, 
summer  atmosphere  ;  guest  rooms  and  suites  of  apartments,  with 
parlors  and  libraries.  Manager,  J.  H.  King.  New  York  office,  12 
West  Twenty-third  street. 

ALTAMONTE  SPRINGS— The  Altamonte.— Situated  in  the 
highlands  of  Florida,  nine  miles  from  Orlando,  six  miles  from 
Winter  Park,  and  one  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  south  of  Jackson- 
ville ;  ninety  feet  above  St.  John's  river,  in  extensive  pine  and 
orange  groves ;  near  two  clear  water  lakes,  affording  abundant 
opportunity  for  gunning   and   fishing:    on    one    of    these.    Lake 


WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE.  349 

Orienta,  a  steam  launch  has  been  placed ;  a  modem  built  hotel, 
with  many  improvements  since  last  season,  and  a  recent  addition 
of  twenty-five  rooms ;  heated  by  steam  and  with  open  fire-places 
in  many  of  the  rooms ;  billiards,  bowling,  telegraph,  etc. ;  connec- 
tion by  horse-cars,  with  station  on  South  Florida  Railroad  a  half- 
mile  distant ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Open  until 
April  15.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3.50 ;  by  the  week,  $17.50.  Pro- 
prietor, H.  W.  Priest,  also  of  the  Forest  Hills  Hotel,  Franconia, 
N.  H.  *     

DE  LAND  AND  LAKE  HELEN— Harlan  House.— De  Land 
is  five  miles  east  of  the  St.  John's,  from  which  it  is  accessible,  also 
accessible  directly  by  railway  from  Jacksonville  ;  a  beautiful  town, 
which  takes  its  name  from  its  founder,  H.  A.  De  Land ;  ample 
space,  with  park-like  stretches  of  pine  forest  and  orange  grove,  in 
which  visitors  from  the  North  have  built  themselves  pretty  cot- 
tages ;  offers  unusual  educational  facilities.  The  neighboring 
Lake  Helen  is  accessible  by  railway  from  Blue  Springs  landing  on 
the  St.  John's ;  also  by  railway  from  New  Smyrna  on  the  Jackson- 
ville, St.  Augustine  and  Indian  River  Railroad ;  the  lake  is  remark- 
able for  the  semi-tropical  beauty  of  its  environment.  De  Land 
has  several  hotels  and  Lake  Helen  has  two.  The  Harlan  House  at 
the  latter  place  is  situated  in  a  pine  grove  and  overlooks  the  lake  ; 
a  modem  built  house,  with  the  latest  appointments,  and  elegantly 
furnished  ;  billiards,  bowling,  tennis ;  upholstered  boats  on  the  lake 
free  to  guests ;  receives  100  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2  to 
$2.50. 

GEORGIA  UPLANDS. 


THOMASVILLE.— A  small,  beautiful  •'  garden  city,"  having  a 
population  of  about  five  thousand  ;  in  the  highest  parts  of  the 
Georgia  upland,  twelve  miles  from  Florida  line,  fifty-five  miles 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  accessible  by  New  York  and  Savannah 
steamers  to  Savannah,  thence  in  a  few  hours  by  the  Savannah, 
Florida  and  Western  railway ;  or  by  the  elegant  vestibule  trains  of 
the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  Fast  Mail  Route  (Pennsylvania  station. 
Jersey  City),  in  thirty-eight  hours ;  sandy  soil,  drying  within  an 
hour  after  the  heaviest  rain  ;  few  days  in  winter  when  one  cannot 
saunter  with  comfort  in  the  open  air ;  beautiful  drives  through  the 
pine  woods. 


350  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

THOMASVILLE— PiNEY  Woods  Hotel.— Within  three  min- 
utes' walk  of  the  business  centre  of  the  town,  fronting  for  four 
hundred  feet  on  "  Paradise  Park,"  a  fine  forest  of  eighty  acres  laid 
out  in  rambles  and  drives ;  wide  and  lofty  verandas  and  projecting 
towers ;  Otis  elevator ;  gas,  electric  bells,  steam  heat  and  open 
fire-places ;  artesian  well  one  thousand  nine  hundred  feet  deep ; 
approved  plumbing  and  perfect  drainage ;  suites  with  private 
baths  ;  billiards,  bowling,  tennis  courts,  etc.;  livery  with  Kentucky 
saddle  horses ;  orchestral  music  ;  receives  three  hundred  guests. 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4  and  upward  ;  special  rates  by  the  week. 
Proprietor,  M.  A.  Bower.     Manager,  William  E.  Davies. 


THOMASVILLE  —  The  Mitchell  House. — A  large,  massive 
house  of  brick ;  faces  a  pretty  park  ;  main  dining-room  fifty-two  by 
seventy-five  feet ;  verandas  eighteen  to  twenty-eight  feet  wide  ;  ro- 
tunda fifty-three  feet  in  height ;  large  bedrooms,  with  ample 
clothes-presses,  open  fire-places  for  wood  fires,  and  hot  and  cold 
water ;  rooms  in  suites  with  private  baths  ;  wide  staircases  ;  hard- 
wood finish  throughout ;  gas,  electric  bells ;  artesian  well  one  thou- 
sand nine  hundred  feet  deep  ;  bowling,  billiards,  kennels  for  dogs  ; 
decorations  and  furniture  by  New  York  art  decorators.  Prices  : — 
By  the  day,  $4  and  upwards ;  special  rates  by  the  week  or  for 
suites  with  private  bath.     Manager,  George  M.  Tilton. 


III. 

GEORGIA  SEASIDE. 


BRUNSWICK— The  Oglethorpe.— A  beautiful  city  by  the  sea, 
sixty  miles  south  of  Savannah  and  seventy  miles  north  of  Jackson- 
ville, a  city  of  parks  with  trees  of  live  oak,  magnolia  and  bay,  and 
pine  forests,  the  neighboring  country  famous  for  its  game — deer, 
wild  turkey,  foxes,  etc.  Parlor  car  service  between  Brunswick  and 
Way  Cross,  connecting  with  all  through  trains  between  the  East 
and  Jacksonville.  The  Oglethorpe  is  a  new  house,  opened  four 
years  ago  ;  substantially  built  of  brick,  on  the  highest  land  in  the 
city,  surrounded  with  spacious  grounds ;  main  building  two  hun- 
dred and  sixty-seven  feet  in  front,  faced  by  a  Corinthian  porch  ; 
large  rotunda  tiled  with  marble,  opening  m  the  rear  on  a  circular 
balcony  which  affords  a  beautiful  view  of  the  bay ;  dining-room 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  351 

fifty  by  seventy-five  feet ;  grand  parlor  seventy  by  thirty-two  feet; 
parlor  and  reception  rooms  beautifully  furnished  and  decorated, 
having  artistically  carved  mantels  ;  rooms  in  suites,  with  private 
baths  ;  complete  fire  alarm  arrangements  and  disciplined  fire  ser- 
vice ;  an  artesian  well  supplies  three  hundred  and  seventy-five 
gallons  per  minute  ;  receives  three  hundred  guests.  Fifth  season. 
Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ;  by  the  week,  $21  and  $25.  Manager 
Warren  Leland,  Jr. 


SAVANNAH — The  De  Soto.  A  building  of  great  architectural 
beauty,  occupying,  with  its  inner  court,  an  entire  block,  fronting 
on  Liberty  street,  with  its  semi-tropical  plaza,  on  Monterey  square, 
and  near  the  famous  Forsyth  Park,  embracing  acres  of  forest  trees 
and  flowers ;  wide  piazzas  and  promenades ;  three  hundred  rooms 
with  front  views  ;  furnished  and  finished  throughout  in  solid  oak 
and  cherry,  the  drawing-rooms,  parlors  and  many  suites  hung 
with  expensive  tapestry,  silk  and  lace  ;  a  dining-room  which  seats 
four  hundred,  and  breakfast-room  for  fifty  guests ;  large  gymna- 
sium ;  handsomely  furnished  sanitarium  ;  electric  lights,  with  gas 
always  in  reserve ;  electric  bells  and  return  calls  in  every  room  ; 
separate  elevators  for  porters  and  servants ;  cuisine  supplied  from 
the  best  tropical,  semi-tropical  and  Northern  markets  ;  accommo- 
dates five  hundred  guests  ;  special  rates  for  families  or  parties  re- 
maining a  week  or  longer.     Managers,  Watson  &  Powers. 


IV. 

SOUTH  CAROLINA  PINE  LANDS. 


AIKEN. — Thirty-one  hours  from  New  York,  without  change,  by 
the  Pennsylvania  and  connected  railroads ;  one  hundred  and  twen- 
ty miles  from  Charleston,  on  an  elevated  plateau,  between  six  and 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  encircled  by  forests  of  pine  ;  a 
beautiful  town  of  broad  streets,  with  houses  surrounded  by  gar- 
dens of  fruit  trees,  vines  and  shrubbery  ;  pure  and  dry  air  impreg- 
nated with  the  odor  of  the  pines ;  average  winter  temperature, 
forty-six  degrees. 


AIKEN— Highland  Park  Hotel.— Situated  on  elevated  ground 
on  the  borders  of  a  park  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  laid  out 
in  walks  and  drives  leading  through  groves  of  pines  and  other 


853  WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

trees  ;  bedrooms  and  parlors  in  suites,  with  sunny  exposure  ;  open 
fire-places  supplied  with  oak  and  resinous  pine  wood  ;  gas,  electric 
bells ;  pure  spring  water ;  bathrooms  on  every  floor ;  passenger 
elevator ;  billiard-room,  ladies'  billiard-room  ;  bowling-alley,  tennis 
court ;  well-equipped  stables,  with  well-trained  saddle-horses ; 
dairy  farm ;  excellent  cuisine ;  receives  three  hundred  guests. 
Proprietor,  B.  P.  Chatfield. 


V. 

NORTH  CAROLINA  MOUNTAINS. 


ASHEVILLE. — A  city  of  eight  thousand  inhabitants,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Swannanoa  and  French  Broad  rivers,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet ;  the  central  point  of  the 
great  mountain  region  of  North  Carolina,  which  is  bounded  on  the 
east  by  the  Blue  Ridge,  on  the  west  by  the  Alleghanies,  and  is 
crossed  by  transverse  ranges ;  within  a  day's  excursion  of  Mount 
Mitchell,  the  highest  summit  east  of  the  Mississippi ;  winter  climate 
mild — the  snow  seldom  remaining  long  even  on  the  highest  sum- 
mits ;  accessible  from  New  York  in  twenty-four  hours,  without 
change,  by  the  Piedmont  Air  line  (Pennsylvania  railroad  station, 
Jersey  City).  

ASHEVILLE — Battery  Park  Hotel. — An  exceedingly  pictu- 
resque edifice,  built  a  few  years  ago ;  stands  on  the  site  of  an  old  con- 
federate breastworks,  having  a  frontage  of  .more  than  three  hundred 
feet ;  elevation  two  thousand  eight  hundred  feet ;  one  hundred  feet 
above  the  city,  commanding  a  mountain  view  miles  in  extent,  and 
pronounced  one  of  the  grandest  in  America ;  average  winter  tem- 
perature fifty  degrees ;  hotel  heated  by  steam  and  open  fire- 
places ;  lighted  wholly  by  electricity  ;  hydraulic  elevator,  electric 
bells  ;  baths  on  every  floor  ;  music  hall,  ladies'  billiard  parlor  and 
bowling-alley  ;  well-equipped  livery,  saddle  horses.  Open  all  the 
year.     Manager.  E.  K.  McKissiok. 

ASHEVILLE — Kenilvvorth  Inn. — On  an  elevated  plateau, 
two  thousand  six  hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  surrounded  by  a 
natural  park  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres ;  Pullman  car  service 
via  Pennsylvania  Railroad ;  dry,  invigorating  climate,  entirely  free 
from  dampness  ;  large  rooms,  all  open  to  outside  light  and  air ; 
seventy  rooms  connected  with  private  baths ;  fan  system  of  heating, 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  353 

forcing  a  current  of  pure  air  throughout  the  house  ;  all  modem 
conveniences,  pure  water,  electric  light,  billiards,  bowling,  tennis  : 
best  sanitary  arrangements ;  superior  cuisine  ;  excellent  livery  ; 
picturesque  walks  and  drives.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4  to  $5  ;  by 
the  week,  $17.50  and  upwards;  special  rates  to  families  by  the 
month.     Managers,  Rhodes  &  Browning,  Asheville,  N.  C. 

HOT  SPRINGS— Mountain  P.\rk  Hotel.— A  \-illage  of  three 
hundred  inhabitants,  in  the  valley  of  the  French  Broad  river,  thirty- 
seven  miles  northwest  of  Asheville,  on  the  Western  North  Carolina 
road  ;  twenty-six  hours  from  New  York  by  the  Pennsylvania  road 
and  connections  ;  on  a  plateau  forming  a  natural  park,  surrounded 
by  pine-covered  mountains ;  air  dry,  bracing  and  free  from 
malaria  ;  the  springs  have  a  temperature  of  ninety-six  to  one  hun- 
dred and  four  degrees,  and  their  waters  are  conducted  info  a 
bathing  house  which  contains  a  large  swimming  pool,  100 x  30  feet, 
and  sixteen  marble  basins  9x6  feet,  surrounded  by  dressing-rooms 
provided  with  cots  for  resting  and  electric  call-bell  to  summon  at- 
tendants ;  the  water  is  also  conducted  into  bath-rooms  in  the  hotel, 
a  building  completed  four  years  ago  ;  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
bedrooms,  furnished  in  cherry  and  ash,  every  window  looking  out 
upon  beautiful  river  and  moimtain  scenery  ;  large  ball-room,  with 
stage  for  theatricals,  etc.,  elevator,  gas,  electric  bells ;  drinking 
water  from  mountain  springs  ;  resident  physician ;  well-equipped 
livery.  A  picturesque  iron  bridge,  affording  a  delightful  promenade, 
has  been  recently  thrown  across  the  French  Broad  river,  and  in 
general  all  driveways  have  been  improved.  Open  all  the  year. 
Proprietor,  \V.  F.  Ross,  Hot  Springs,  N.  C.  New  York  ofl&ce,  229 
Broadway.  

LOOKOUT  MOUNTAIN,  TENN.— Lookout  Inn.— Newly 
equipped  as  a  winter,  spring  and  summer  resort ;  on  summit  of  the 
famous  Lookout  Mountain,  two  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above 
sea  level ;  magnificent  scenery,  pure  air  and  remarkably  even  tem- 
perature, beneficial  in  lung,  throat  and  nervous  diseases  ;  an  impos- 
ing structure  four  hundred  feet  long,  with  central  tower  and  exten- 
sive side  wings  ;  wide  verandas  around  three  sides  of  the  house  ; 
large  dining  hall  seating  six  himdred  gfuests  ;  bedrooms,  all  outside 
rooms,  spacious  and  well-lighted ;  all  the  most  approved  modem 
conveniences ;  gas,  electric  lights  and  bells,  steam  heat  and 
open  fire-places  ;  billiards,  bowling  alleys,  etc. ;  accommodates  five 
hundred  g^uests.  Manager,  David  B.  Plumer,  Lookout  Mountain, 
Tenn. 


354  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

VI. 

VIRGINIA  MOUNTAINS. 


SALEM — Hotel  Salem. — An  entirely  new  winter  and  summer 
resort,  located  in  the  Roanoke  Valley  and  encircled  by  the  Blue 
Ridge  and  Allegheny  mountains ;  elevation  one  thousand  one  hun- 
dred feet ;  town  and  neighborhood  noted  for  the  social  refinement, 
intelligence  and  hospitality  of  its  people;  climate  mild,  equable 
and  invigorating ;  free  from  malaria  ;  excellent  natural  drainage ; 
average  temperature  for  year,  fifty-eight  degrees.  Hotel  of  brick 
and  stone,  five  stories ;  one  hundred  rooms,  many  en  suite  with 
baths ;  main  lobby,  office,  dining-rooms,  sun  parlor  and  several 
guest  rooms  on  the  first  floor  ;  thoroughly  furnished  and  kept  as  a 
first-class  hotel.  Salem  is  on  the  Norfolk  and  Western  railroad  ; 
time  from  Lynchburg,  two  hours ;  from  Washington,  nine  hours ; 
Philadelphia,  twelve  hours ;  New  York,  fifteen  hours.  Open  all  the 
year.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2  to  $3.00.  Special  rates  to  permanent 
guests.    Proprietor,  George  W.  Kittelle. 


VII. 

VIRGINIA  SEASIDE. 


RICHMOND,  VA.— Exchange  and  Ballard  Hotel.— A  hotel 
of  ancient  reputation,  well  known  to  the  world  of  travellers  whose 
wanderings  have  brought  them  to  the  capital  of  the  Old  Dominion. 
Famous  for  hospitality  as  dispensed  by  the  Southerner ;  now  in  the 
increased  enjoyment  of  its  fame.  The  two  houses,  Exchange  and 
Ballard,  are  connected  by  a  covered  suspension  bridge,  making 
them  virtually  one  ;  remodelled  and  elegantly  refitted  throughout ; 
electric  lights  and  elevators  ;  accommodates  six  hundred  guests ; 
rooms  en  suite.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $2.50  to  $500  ;  special  rates  to 
families  or  for  the  season.     Proprietors,  Carrington  &  Archer. 


OLD  POINT  COMFORT.— The  point  of  land  between  the 
James  river  and  Chesapeake  bay  ;  one  of  the  earliest  settled  locali- 
ties on  the  North  Atlantic  coast  and  associated  with  some  of  the 
most  stirring  events  of  American  history  from  colonial  times  down 
to  the  epoch  of  the  late  war ;  the  site  of  Fortress  Monroe  and  the 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  355 

United  States  Artillery  school.  The  winter  temperature  seldom 
falls  below  forty-two  degrees ;  and  the  air  is  bracing  and  tonic. 
Accessible  from  New  York  by  the  Old  Dominion  line  of  steamers, 
via  Norfolk ;  or  by  Pennsylvania  Railroad  to  Baltimore,  thence 
by  Bay  line  of  steamers ;  or  by  the  all  rail  routes  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania road  via  Washington  and  Richmond ;  or  by  New  York, 
Philadelphia  and  Norfolk  Railroad,  via  Dover  and  Cape  Charles — 
Time,  twelve  hours. 

OLD  POINT  COMFORT— Hygeia  Hotel.— The  Hygeia  Hotel, 
situated  on  the  Fort  Monroe  government  reservation,  on  a  beau- 
tiful sandy  beach,  washed  by  the  waters  of  Chesapeake  Bay  and 
Hampton  Roads,  is  a  large  and  luxuriously  appointed  house,  with 
cathedral  glass  windows  and  other  costly  decorations  in  the  pala- 
tial dining-room  and  parlors  ;  gas,  electric  bells,  oral  annunciators, 
elevators ;  hot  sea  baths  on  every  floor ;  perfect  drainage  system  ; 
spacious  sunny  verandas  enclosed  in  glass,  affording  a  fine  water 
view ;  beautiful  dancing  pavilion,  with  music  afternoon  and  even- 
ing by  the  artillery  school  band  ;  Turkish,  Russian,  thermo-elec- 
tric, sulphur  and  other  medicated  baths ;  varied  out-door  diver- 
sions, including  promenades  on  the  beach,  drives  to  various  points 
of  interest,  dances,  concerts,  etc.  The  proximity  of  the  Gulf 
Stream,  less  than  thirty  miles  distant,  ensures  a  mild,  bracing 
climate.  Open  all  the  year.  Winter  prices  :  By  the  day,  $4  and 
upward  ;  by  the  week,  $21  and  upward.     Manager,  F.  N.  Pike. 


NEWPORT  NEWS— HoTEi-  Warwick.— On  Hampton  Roads, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  James  River,  eight  miles  above  Old  Point 
Comfort,  and  twelve  miles  from  Norfolk ;  accessible  by  the  same 
routes  by  which  Old  Point  Comfort  is  reached  and  having  like  ad- 
vantages of  climate  and  sea  air.  A  substantially  built  hotel 
of  first-class  appointments,  occupying  a  site  which  combines  with 
park-like  surroundings  a  marine  view  of  great  beauty  and  extent. 
The  hotel  casino  offers  a  floor  forty  by  seventy  feet  for  dancing 
and  other  amusements ;  a  bowling  alley  in  Queen  Anne  style,  pro- 
vided with  alleys  spaciously  desig^ned  for  the  use  of  ladies ;  a 
promenade  wharf  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  terminating  in  a 
spacious  pavilion.  Trips  from  the  Warwick  to  the  Hygeia,  at  Old 
Point  Comfort,  may  be  made  by  boat,  by  rail  or  by  carriage.  Open 
throughout  the  year.  Manager,  J.  R.  Swinerton.  For  terms,  illus- 
trated pamphlets,  etc.,  address  C.  B.  Orcutt,  Washington  building, 
No.  I  Broadway,  New  York. 


356  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

VIRGINIA  BE ACH— Eighteen  miles  by  railway  east  of  Norfolk, 
thirty  miles  from  Old  Point  Comfort,  six  miles  south  of  Cape 
Henry,  the  beach  being  part  of  a  broad  belt  of  hard  sand  stretch- 
ing ninety  miles  along  the  coast ;  thirty  miles  from  the  Gulf  Stream, 
eddies  of  which  bathe  the  shore  ;  protected  from  northwest  winds 
by  vast  forests  of  pines ;  winter  climate  as  mild  as  in  latitude 
much  further  south. 


VIRGINIA  BEACH— Princess  Anne.— In  (^uecn  Anne  style, 
with  grounds  of  one  thousand  six  hundred  acres  fronting  five  miles 
on  the  ocean ;  spacious  public  and  private  parlors,  hot  and  cold  sea 
water  baths ;  billiard-room  ;  electric  lights  in  every  room  ;  bells, 
elevator,  latest  sanitary  appointments,  etc. ;  verandas  enclosed  in 
glass ;  steam  heat  and  open  fires  ;  a  pavilion  two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  long  and  one  hundred  feet  wide,  fitted  up  with  tennis  court ; 
two  adjacent  lakes  and  a  land-locked  bay ;  boating  and  fishing  and 
oyster-dredging ;  the  famous  duck-shooting  grounds  of  Currituck 
sound  easy  of  access ;  orchestral  music  ;  telegraph  connections ; 
boarding  and  livery  stables ;  receives  three  hundred  guests. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $4  to  $5 ;  by  the  week,  $25  and  upward. 
Proprietor,  S.  E.  Crittenden,  proprietor  of  the  once  famous  Cooper 
House,  of  Cooperstown,  N.  Y.  New  York  oflfice,  96  Broadway, 
room  55. 


VIII. 

MARYLAND. 


BALTIMORE — The  Altamont. — In  Eutaw  place,  at  the  comer 
of  Lanvale  street,  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  and  from  its 
many  bay  windows  looking  out,  in  summer,  upon  a  long  vista  of 
greensward,  shrubberies  and  flower  beds,  encompassing  beautiful 
private  residences;  a  new  house  divided  into  suites  of  family 
rooms ;  sun  parlor  on  top  of  house  overlooking  the  city  of  Balti- 
more and  Chesapeake  bay ;  an  admirable  system  of  heating  and 
ventilation,  insuring  constantly  renewed  supply  of  fresh  air 
warmed  to  a  genial  temperature ;  also  open  grate  fires ;  water 
filtered  and  purified  by  a  patented  process  ;  well-lighted  and  ven- 
tilated bath-rooms ;  a  sweet,  quiet,  home-like  hotel,  delightful  as  a 
place  of  permanent  winter  residence  or  as  a  home  of  temporan- 
sojourn  en  route  to  and  from  the  South,  Baltimore  offering  many 
attractions,  notably  the  celebrated  art  gallery  of  Mr.  William  T. 
Walters.     Proprietor,  C.  Warner  Stork. 


WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE.  357 

IX. 

NEW   JERSEY   SEASIDE. 


ATLANTIC  CITY. — A  city  of  ten  thousand  permanent  resi- 
dents, having  all  the  sanitary  arrangements  and  conveniences  of 
larger  cities ;  popular  as  a  winter  and  spring  as  well  as  summer 
watering  place,  the  climate  being  remarkable  for  its  dryness  and 
equability,  for  which  reasons,  as  well  as  for  the  purity  of  the  air,  it 
is  recommended  by  physicians  to  patients  affected  by  pulmonary 
and  nervous  disorders ;  the  beach  affords  a  ten-mile  drive,  and  is 
bordered  by  a  wide  board  walk,  with  numerous  open-air  pavilions ; 
boating  and  fishing  in  the  bays ;  accessible  in  three  and  three- 
fourths  hours  from  New  York,  and  one  and  one-half  hours  from 
Philadelphia  by  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  (Desbrosses  and  Cort- 
landt  streets),  or  by  the  Central  New  Jersey  Railroad  (Liberty 
street). 


ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Brighton.— Recently  remodelled  and 
enlarged  ;  grounds  extend  to  the  shore  ;  promenade  veranda  seven 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  long  and  sixteen  wide ;  scientific  plumb- 
ing ;  halls  and  public  rooms  heated  by  steam ;  gas,  electric  bells, 
elevator ;  six  staircases,  two  fire  escapes ;  electric  arrangements 
for  sounding  fire-alarms  throughout  the  house ;  parlor  with  bay 
window  overlooking  the  sea ;  ladies'  reading-room ;  large  bed- 
rooms, with  open  fire-places  ;  suites  with  private  baths ;  hot  and 
cold  sea-water  baths ;  no  bar,  but  service  of  wines  at  table  ;  re- 
ceives two  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices  : — 
By  the  day,  $3.50  to  $5.00.     Proprietors,  F.  W.  Hemsley  &  Son. 


ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Traymore.— On  high  ground,  with 
observatory  rising  to  the  height  of  ninety  feet,  where  a  parlor  is 
prettily  fitted  up,  to  which  ascent  is  made  by  the  elevator  ;  bed- 
chambers seventeen  feet  square,  elegantly  furnished ;  open  fire- 
places ;  hot  and  cold  sea-water  baths  ;  thorough  sanitary  arrange- 
ments ;  gas,  electric  bells,  steam  heat ;  sun  parlor  overlooking  the 
sea ;  children's  play-room  ;  men's  smoking  room,  with  ocean  view  ; 
receives  two  hundred  guests.  Prices : — By  the  day,  $3  to  $5  ;  by 
the  week,  $18  to  $25.     Proprietors,  W.  W.  Green  &  Co. 


•J368  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Mansion— One  of  the  largest  hotels  in 
the  place,  occupying  a  block  two  hundred  feet  square,  on  Pennsyl- 
vania and  Atlantic  avenues,  within  five  minutes'  walk  of  the  beach ; 
handsomely  furnished  and  artistically  decorated  parlors ;  parlors 
for  children  and  nurses ;  open-air  pavilion  for  dancing,  theatricals, 
•etc. ;  richly  carpeted  passageways  and  bed-rooms  ;  parlor  suites 
with  bath-rooms ;  finely  appointed  cafe  and  billiard-room ;  gas, 
electric  bells ;  water  from  the  mainland  ;  thorough  drainage.  Open 
•  all  the  year.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3  and  upward  ;  special  rates 
•by  the  week.     Proprietor,  Charles  McGlade,  Atlantic  City. 


ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Shelburne.— At  the  extreme  ocean 
•end  of  Michigan  avenue,  Atlantic  City,  N.  J.,  with  a  sea  view 
unsurpassed  in  the  place ;  a  modern  and  capacious  building  con- 
taining some  eighty  sleeping  rooms,  either  single,  double  or  en 
suite  and  replete  with  all  the  appointments  of  a  refined  and  luxuri- 
ous home ;  pure  water,  electric  bells,  gas,  telephone,  passenger 
elevator ;  hot  and  cold  sea-water  baths,  perfect  sanitation  and  all 
conveniences  for  the  comfort  and  pleasure  of  winter  and  summer 
j^uests ;  parlors,  dining-room;  reception,  reading  and  smoking- 
rooms,  and  sun  galleries  are  commodious,  cheerful  and  handsomely 
and  tastefully  furnished ;  table  and  service  maintained  at  a  high 
standard  of  excellence.  Open  throughout  the  year.  For  particu- 
lars, terms,  etc.,  address  the  proprietor,  A.  B.  Roberts,  Atlantic 
City,  N.  J. 

ATLANTIC  CITY— Sea  Side  House.— Two  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  from  the  beach,  at  ocean  end  of  Pennsylvania  avenue  ;  stands 
on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  commanding  an  unobstructed 
ocean  view;  a  separate  "ocean  parlor"  building  on  the  water's 
edge  with  smoking-room,  reading-room,  etc. ;  covered  walk  to  the 
ocean ;  elevator,  steam  heat,  open  fire-places,  gas,  electric  bells, 
etc. ;  hot  and  cold  fresh  and  salt  water  baths ;  suites  of  rooms  with 
private  bath  ;  sun  parlor ;  large  sun  galleries ;  receives  two  hun- 
-dred  guests.    Open  all  the  year.     Proprietor,  Charles  Evans. 


ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Pennhurst.— On  Michigan  avenue 
near  the  ocean ;  house  of  sixty-two  gfuest  chambers,  with  cottage 
of  ten  rooms ;  electric  bells  ;  sun  parlor,  children's  playroom  ;  pure 
spring  water ;  steam  heat ;  private  horses  and  carriages.  Open  all 
the  year.     Proprietor,  James  Hood. 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  359 

ATLANTIC  CITY— The  Irvington.— On  the  beach,  at  the  end 
of  Virginia  avenue,  a  substantial  and  picturesque  building,  fur- 
nished throughout  in  hard  woods ;  elevator  with  all  latest  safety 
appliances ;  wide  stairways ;  verandas  to  the  first  and  second 
floors ;  abundant  water  supply  and  approved  plumbing ;  bath- 
rooms ;  steam  laundrj^ ;  well-lighted  children's  play-room.  Opens 
in  February.     Proprietors,  Chambers  &  Hoopes. 


ATLANTIC  CITY— Haddon  Hall.— Open  ocean  front  of  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  enlarged,  improved  and  furnished  in  oak ; 
large  dining-room  and  parlors  overlooking  the  ocean ;  verandas 
of  three  hundred  feet  and  an  interior  promenade  of  two  hundred 
feet ;  billiard  parlor ;  ocean  view  smoking-room  ;  steam  heat ;  open 
fire-places  ;  dark  room  for  photographic  work  ;  receives  two  hun- 
dred gfuests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3  to  $5  ;  by  the  week,  for  one, 
$18  to  $25,  single  rooms  ;  $30  to  $56,  double  rooms.  Proprietors. 
Leeds  &  Lippincott. 


X. 

NEW  JERSEY  PINE  BELT. 


LAKEWOOD. — Situated  in  the  great  pine  belt  of  New  Jersey, 
sixty  miles  from  New  York  by  the  New  Jersey  Central  Railroad, 
and  nine  miles  from  the  ocean  ;  trains  leave  New  York  at  8:15  A.M., 
145,  3^0,  4:20  and  6:15  P.M.;  winter  temperature  ranges  ten 
degrees  higher  than  in  New  York ;  boating  on  the  neighboring 
Lake  Carasaljo ;  beautiful  walks  and  drives  through  the  pine 
woods ;  the  sandy  and  gravelly  soil,  dry  air  and  balsamic  exhala- 
tions render  the  place  a  near-by  winter  paradise  for  g^iests  troubled 
with  throat,  lung  or  malarial  diseases. 


LAKEWOOD— The  Lakewood.— The  house,  substantially  built 
of  brick  and  iron,  has  projecting  wings  forming  a  sunny  court 
about  which  are  grouped  the  living  rooms,  parlors,  reading-rooms, 
music-rooms,  billiard-room,  sun  parlors  and  enclosed  piazzas  one- 
quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  ;  steam  heat  in  every  room  and  open 
wood  fire-places  of  Roman  brick  and  tiles  in  nearly  all ;  extensive 
system  of  ventilation  constructed  under  supervision  of  an  exper- 


360  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

ienced  engineer  ;  electric  liglits,  artesian  well ;  morning  and  after- 
noon concerts,  music  at  dinner ;  billiards,  bowling  alley,  telegraph  ; 
long  distance  telephone  ;  cuisine  under  charge  of  Mons.  La  Per- 
rugue,  late  chef  at  Delmonico's.  Receives  seven  hundred  guests. 
Prices : — By  the  day,  $5 ;  by  the  week,  $28  to  $35.  Manager,  Fred. 
Sterry. 


LAKEWOOD — The  Palmer  House. — A  new  and  substantial 
brick  structure  of  modern  architecture,  built  especially  for  winter 
use,  and  having  all  the  appointments  of  a  first-class  hotel ;  most 
approved  system  of  steam  heating;  open  fire-places  and  wood 
stoves ;  chambers  single  and  in  suites ;  elevator,  gas,  electric  bells ; 
bath-rooms  on  every  floor ;  sun  parlor  with  southern  exposure  and 
open  wood  fires ;  billiard-room ;  pure  spring  water ;  excellent 
livery  attached  to  the  house  ;  rowing  and  sailing  on  Lake  Cara- 
saljo ;  receives  one  hundred  and  fifty  guests.  Manager,  J.  R. 
Palmer,  Lakewood,  N.  J. 


LAKEWOOD — Laurel-in-the-Pines.— A  new  and  imposing 
brick  structure,  on  elevated  ground,  on  bank  of  Lake  Carasaljo, 
in  the  midst  of  beautiful  pine  woods,  with  charming  views  of  lake 
and  woodland  from  all  points ;  large  windows  and  spacious  sun 
corridors ;  all  modern  conveniences.  Manager,  Horace  Porter^ 
also  manager  of  the  Laurel  House. 


LAKEWOOD — Laurel  House. — Especially  designed  and  only 
used  as  a  winter  house,  having  sunny  rooms,  with  open  wood  fire- 
places ;  verandas  enclosed  with  glass ;  billiard  and  music  rooms ; 
electric  lights  ;  abundant  water  supply  from  an  artesian  well ;  all 
the  appointments  of  a  modern  hotel ;  resort  of  a  fashionable  New 
York  circle.  Open  from  October  to  June.  Manager,  Horace 
Porter. 


LAKEWOOD — The  Plnes. — An  old-fashioned  residence  on 
Madison  avenue  between  Second  and  Third  streets,  in  the  midst 
of  large  grounds,  with  grove  of  old  trees,  mostly  oak  ;  open  fire- 
places in  halls  and  throughout  the  house  ;  large  verandas  on  three 
sides ;  excellent  table  ;  receives  twenty-five  to  thirty  guests.  Open 
from  October  to  June.     Proprietress,  Mrs.  John  M.  Child. 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  361 

LAKEWOOD— The  Brentford.— In  the  highest  part  of  the 
village,  corner  of  Madison  avenue  and  Sixth  street ;  of  recent  con- 
struction, with  homelike  and  attractive  interior ;  large  and  sunny 
bed-rooms,  most  of  them  with  open  fireplaces ;  elevator ;  smoking- 
room  ;  house  lighted  by  gas.  Prices : — For  double  rooms,  $30  to 
$50  per  week.  Open  October  to  June.  Proprietress,  Miss  A.  M. 
Myers. 

XI. 

ISLAND  RESORTS. 


THE  BERMUDAS.— A  group  of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five 
islands  lying  off  the  Atlantic  coast,  southeast  of  Cape  Hatteras ; 
the  largest,  Bermuda  or  Long  Island,  being  sixteen  miles  long  and 
a  mile  and  a  half  wide.  Upon  this,  Hamilton,  the  capital  town,  is 
situated.  The  climate  is  mild  and  vegetation  is  greeri  throughout 
the  year,  the  winter  temperature  ranging  from  sixty-five  to  ninety- 
five  degrees.  Bathing,  boating,  fishing  are  the  outdoor  diversions, 
and  the  English  official  society  lends  gayety  to  the  place  ;  picture- 
esque  drives  over  hard  coral  roads,  bordered  by  orange  and 
lemon  trees,  oleanders,  roses  and  flowering  plants.  Accessible  in 
sixty  hours  from  New  York  by  the  iron  steamers  Orinoco  and 
Trinidad  of  the  Quebec  Steamship  Company,  39  Broadway ; 
steamers  leave  Pier  47,  North  River,  at  3  P.M.,  every  Thurday. 


THE  BERMUDAS— The  Hamilton.— The  Hamilton  Hotel, 
built  entirely  of  stone,  is  delightfully  situated  on  the  highest 
ground,  commandmg  a  view  of  the  harbor  and  the  numerous 
islands,  many  of  which  are  connected  by  bridges  and  causeways  ; 
gas,  electric  bells,  hot  and  cold  baths,  etc. ;  beautifully  laid  out 
grounds,  rich  in  varied  foliage  and  blooming  with  flowers  all  win- 
ter ;  in  the  rear  is  Victoria  Park,  where  the  government  band  gives 
weekly  concerts ;  table  generously  supplied  from  the  New  York 
markets ;  choice  cuisine.  Open  from  December  to  May.  Prices : — 
By  the  day,  $4  to  $5  ;  by  the  week,  $21  and  upward.  Proprietor, 
Walter  Aiken,  Hamilton,  Bermuda.  Cable  address.  Hotel, 
Bermuda. 


THE  BERMUDAS— Princess  Hotel— A  comfortable  and  hand- 
some structure.  Built  in  1881  of  Georgia  pine  ;  surrounded  by  a 
veranda  four  hundred  feet  long  and  fourteen  feet  wide,  from  which 


363  WINTER   RESORT  GUIDE. 

one  of  the  best  views  of  the  harbor  and  islands  can  be  obtained  ; 
seventy  large  and  well-ventilated  bed-rooms  in  suites,  with 
verandas  overhanging  the  sea ;  lighted  by  gas  ;  fresh  and  salt 
water,  hot  and  cold  baths  ;  table  supplied  with  the  best  the  New 
York  markets  afford.  Apply  for  circulars,  terms,  etc.,  to  N.  S. 
Howe,  Hamilton,  Bermuda,  or  to  A.  E.  Outerbridge  &  Co.,  39 
Broadway,  New  York. 


THE  BAHAMAS. — A  group  of  six  hundred  islands,  forming 
the  most  northerly  group  of  the  West  Indies,  and  extending  from 
San  Domingo  to  the  coast  of  Florida.  Only  fifteen  of  these  islands 
are  inhabited,  the  most  important  being  New  Providence,  on 
which  Nassau,  the  capital  town,  is  situated,  accessible  by  the 
Ward  line  of  steamers  leaving  for  Nassau  every  other  Thursday ; 
steamship  office,  113  Wall  street. 


THE  BAHAMAS— Royal  Victoria  Hotel.— Built  of  the  coral 
rock  of  the  islands  and  stands  on  high  ground,  affording  perfect 
drainage ;  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  verandas  commanding  a  view 
of  the  town  and  harbor,  the  neighboring  islands  and  the  sea; 
large,  well-ventilated  rooms ;  hot  and  cold  fresh  and  salt  water ; 
table  supplied  with  poultry  and  joints  brought  in  ice-boxes  from 
New  York ;  bananas,  oranges,  cocoanuts,  guavas,  tamarinds, 
pineapples  and  other  tropical  fruits  in  abundance  ;  beautiful  drives 
inland  and  by  the  sea  over  coral  roads ;  hops  every  Saturday 
evening  ;  receives  two  hundred  guests.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $4 ; 
by  the  week,  $17.50  to  $25.  Proprietor,  S.  S.  Morton;  New  York 
address,  J.  Lidgerwood,  835  Broadway.  Time-tables,  pamphlets, 
etc.,  furnished  by  James  E.  Ward  &  Co.,  or  R.  W.  Parsons,  113 
Wall  street.  New  York.    Cable  address,  Morton,  Nassau,  N.  P. 


XII. 

CALIFORNIA. 


"  The  Sunset  Route,"  as  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  is  called,  is 
the  route  naturally  preferred  in  the  winter  season  of  the  year.  "  A 
more  delightful  and  comfortable  journey,"  writes  a  Home  Journal 
tourist-correspondent,    "than    that    from    New  Orleans    to    Los 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE.  363 

Angeles  could  not  be  desired.  Leaving  New  York  in  a  snow 
squall  by  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  the  ever-changing  atmosphere 
from  that  of  early  winter  to  summer-like  mildness,  when  we 
reached  the  Crescent  City,  was  an  inexpressible  delight.  From 
New  Orleans  to  San  Antonio,  Texas,  a  distance  of  about  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles,  the  road  passes  through  a  region  rich  in 
varied  vegetation."  Of  the  trip  from  San  Antonio  through  the 
grand  canons  of  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  beyond  to  El  Paso  and 
Paso  del  Norte,  Mexico,  much  in  glowing  phrases  has  been  written 
by  travellers  of  all  nations.  Pullman  buffet  cars  on  all  trains. 
General  Eastern  agent,  E.  Hawley,  343  Broadway,  or  i  Battery 
place.  New  York. 

MONTEREY— Hotel  Del  Monte.— An  old  Spanish  town  on 
the  coast,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  south  of  San  Fran- 
cisco ;  on  a  magnificent  bay,  bordered  by  a  hard,  smooth  beach, 
upon  which  the  hotel  company  has  erected  a  bathing  establish- 
ment which  includes  not  only  dressing-rooms  for  beach  bathing, 
but  a  vast  inclosure  containing  four  swimming  pools,  each  fifty 
feet  long,  in  which  the  constantly  changing  water  is  maintained  at 
varying  degrees  of  temperature.  The  hotel  is  a  building  of  pic- 
turesque outline — a  mass  of  towers,  corners  and  angles,  with 
broad  piazzas  and  shaded  porches — in  a  park  of  two  hundred  acres 
luxuriant  in  live  oaks,  pines,  flowers  and  labyrinths  of  foliage ; 
gardens  equal  to  those  of  Kensington  and  Kew  ;  four  hundred  and 
thirty  rooms,  warm  and  sunshiny,  single  and  in  suites,  averaging 
16x19  feet;  dining-room,  175x60  feet;  parlor  50x40;  ball-room 
93  X  40,  with  orchestra  recess  and  grand  piano  ;  ladies'  billiard  hall, 
library,  large  open  fire-places  of  decorated  tiles  in  all  public  rooms ; 
club  house  with  billiard  hall,  bowling  alleys,  etc.;  elaborate  fire 
alarm  arrangements  and  disciplined  fire  service  ;  steam  heat,  gas, 
elevator ;  fishing  in  the  Carmel  river,  deer  hunting  in  nearby 
mountains ;  accessible  by  Southern  Pacific  Railway.  Open  all  the 
year.  Prices  : — By  the  day,  $3  and  upward ;  parlors  from  $1  to 
$2.50  per  day  extra.  Proprietors,  Pacific  Improvement  Company. 
Manager,  George  SchOnewald. 


SANTA  CRUZ— Sea  Beach  Hotel.— City  of  about  eight 
thousand  population,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  bay  of  Monterey, 
about  eight  miles  south  of  San  Francisco,  among  the  foot  hills  of 
the  Santa  Cruz  mountains,  six  miles  from  Big  Trees ;  temperature 
one  of  the  most  equable  in  California ;  flowers  bloom  in  the  open 


364  WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 

air  every  month  in  the  year ;  surf  bathing  during  every  winter 
month  ;  abundant  water  supply  from  a  reservoir  two  miles  dis- 
tant ;  street  cars  and  electric  railway.  Hotel  located  on  an  emi- 
nence looking  down  upon  Monterey  bay,  with  a  rich  and  varied 
prospect  of  sea  and  mountain  from  the  wide  verandas  encircling 
the  house ;  a  wing  recently  added,  nearly  twice  as  large  as  the 
original  building,  containing  seventy-five  large,  light  rooms ; 
spacious  hall,  extending  the  full  length  of  the  house  ;  hot  and  cold 
water  ;  private  baths  ;  incandescent  electric  light.  Prices  : — By 
the  day,  $2.50  and  upward.     Proprietor,  John  T.  Sullivan. 


REDONDO  BEACH— Redondo  Hotel.— Eighteen  miles  from 
Los  Angeles ;  accessible  by  Redondo  Railway  and  Santa  Fe  Rail- 
way, and  by  steamer  from  San  Francisco ;  a  new  and  large  house 
of  picturesque  architecture  and  luxurious  in  appointments,  deco- 
rations and  furnishing  ;  hot  and  cold  running  water,  incandescent 
lights,  electric  bells  and  open  fire-places  in  every  room  ;  elevators ; 
water  from  artesian  wells  ;  scientific  plumbing,  the  sewage  pipes 
extending  half  a  mile  into  the  sea  ;  music  hall  eighty  by  forty  feet ; 
orchestral  music  ;  the  dining-room  commands  a  view  of  the  ocean ; 
tennis  courts  laid  out  at  cost  of  $7,000 ;  elaborately  appointed  bath- 
house and  pavilion  on  the  beach ;  varied  and  fastidious  cuisine ; 
dairy  products  and  small  fruits  from  hotel  farm  of  two  hundred 
acres  ;  sailing,  fishing,  beautiful  drives  ;  receives  two  hundred  and 
twenty-five  guests.  Open  all  the  year.  Prices  :  By  the  day,  $3  to 
$4  ;  by  the  week,  $17.50  to  $28.  Special  rates  for  families  and  per- 
manent guests.  Address,  Redondo  Hotel  Co.,  Redondo  Beach, 
Cal. 


XIII. 

THE  SOUTHWEST. 


HOT  SPRINGS,  ARKANSAS.— These  springs,  which  are  cele- 
brated for  their  curative  efficiency  in  rheumatic  and  other  ailments, 
are  situated  on  the  slope  of  Iron  Mountain  in  the  central  part  of 
the  State ;  their  waters  which  flow  in  great  abundance  are  dis- 
tributed by  a  net-work  of  iron  pipe  through  the  cottages,  hotels 
and  numerous  bath-houses  in  the  valley  below. 


WINTER  RESORT  GUIDE. 


365 


HOT  SPRINGS— New  Hotel  Eastman.— A  newly  completed 
house,  constructed  of  brick  and  stone  and  iron ;  main  building 
six  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  by  seventy ;  verandas  seven 
hundred  feet  in  lengfth  and  fourteen  feet  wide ;  an  observatory  one 
hundred  feet  high  ;  rotunda  fifty-two  by  seventy  feet ;  public 
parlor  sixty  by  seventy ;  dining-room  one  hundred  and  fifty  by 
seventy,  other  public  rooms  on  a  like  gn"and  scale  ;  all  elaborately 
decorated ;  guest  chambers  number  five  hundred  and  twenty,  all 
large,  well  lighted  and  ventilated ;  one  thousand  five  hundred 
incandescent  electric  lamps  light  the  interior,  fifty  arc  lights,  the 
exterior ;  steam  heat ;  no  fires  in  the  building  except  in  kitchen  and 
laundry,  which  have  been  made  fire-proof ;  connected  with  the 
house  by  a  covered  passageway  and  under  the  same  management, 
is  a  large  bathing  establishment  containing  forty  bath-rooms,  with 
porcelain-lined  tubs,  vapor  baths,  etc. ;  excellent  hunting  and  fish- 
ing in  the  neighborhood.  Prices  : — By  the  week,  $21  to  $50,  accord- 
ing to  location.    Henry  N.  Willey. 


THOMAS  MILLER  S  SONS, 

SHIRT  MAKERS, 

AND  DEALERS  IN 

MEN'S     FURNISHINQ     QOODS» 
1151    BROADTTAY, 

Bet.  29th  ana  27th  Sts.  NEW  YORK 


pROM  our  large  stock  articles  of  reliable 

TRAVELLERS  ,^  ,  ,      .  .    , 

_  quality,  and    ready   for    immediate 

CAN  ~i        J  J 

PROCURE  ^  use— SHIRTS,  COLLARS,  SCARFS, 

PAJAMAS,  HANDKERCHIEFS  and    UNDERWEAR  suitable  for  all 
climates. 


Our  Store  is  conveniently  located, 
being  opposite  the  Victoria  Hotel,  and 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  all  the 
leading  hotels. 

THE  BROADWAY  CABLE  CARS  PASS  THE  DOOR. 


^^'>i. 


CELEBRATED 


<Xi  HATS 


0* 


bADIES'  F(0UND  HaTS  /H.  B0NNETS 

AND 

Dunlap  Silk  Umbrellas. 


NEW   YORK 


178  and  180  Fifth  Avenue,  between  22nd  and  23rd  Streets^ 
and  181  Broadway,  near  Cortlandt  Street. 


CHICAGO: 

Palmer  House. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

914  Chestnut  St, 


Accredited  Agencies  in  all  4-'pigcipal  Cities. 


The  Earth  is  Sl^rinl^ing. 


Sir  Edwin  Arnold,  in  one  of  his  recent  letters,  says  : 

"This  world  we  live  in  is  becoming  sadly  monotonous,  as  it  shrinks  year 
by  year  to  smaller  and  smaller  apparent  dimensions  under  the  rapid  move- 
ment provided  by  limited  passenger  trains  and  swift  ocean  steamships." 

The  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad  has, 
by  the  introduction  of  its  Empire  State  Express,  to  a  greater 
degree  than  any  other  force  on  this  continent  aided  this 
shrinking  process.  It  is  now  possible,  by  taking  this  Fastest 
Train  in  the  World,  to  breakfast  leisurely  at  your  home  or 
hotel  in  New  York,  and  dine  in  Buffalo  or  Niagara  Falls, 
more  than  440  miles  away* 


EMPIRE  STATE  EXPRESS  "  or  the  NEW  YORK  CENTRAL 

V_         THE    FASTEST    TRAIN    IN    THE    WORLD.  y' 


From  a  Photogpaoh  by  A.  P.  YATES,  Syracuse,  N.  Y.       Taken   when  the 
train  was  running  60  miles  an  hour. 


For  the  excellence  of  its  track,  the  speed  of  its  trains,  the  safety  and 
comfort  of  its  patrons,  the  loveliness  and  variety  of  its  scenery,  the  number 
and  importance  of  its  cities,  and  the  uniformly  correct  character  of  its 
service,  the  New  York  Central  &  Hudson  River  Railroad  is  not  surpassed  by 
any  similar  institution  on  either  side  of  the  Atlantic. 

JOHN  M.  TOUCHY.  GEORGE  H.  DANIELS, 

Gbhsral  Manaoir,  Obn'l  Passehgir  Agsnt. 

GRAND    OBNTRAL    STATION,    NEW   YORK. 


Id  ^  ^m^h  D^y. 

A  Thousand  Beautiful  Views, 
A  Thousand  Historic  Scenes, 
A  Thousand  Romantic  Incidents, 

Fill  the  sight  and  mind  of  the  traveler  who  jour- 
neys along  our  grand  old  Hudson  River,  and 
through  the  beautiful  Mohawk  Valley,  on  one  of 
the  Peerless  Passenger  Trains  of  the  New  York 
Central. 

Travelers  who  have  visited  all  the  countries  of 
the  Globe  express  the  opinion  that  the  trip  be- 
tween New  York  and  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls, 
by  the  New  York  Central,  is  the  Finest  One- Day 
Railroad  Ride  in  the  World. 

Every  Mile  is  Historic, 

Every  Mile  is  Beautiful, 

Every  Mile  is  a  Pleasure. 

An  ever-changing  panorama  of  Rivers,  Moun- 
tains, Lakes,  Fields,  and  Forests,  interspersed 
with  Towns  and  Cities  of  international  impor- 
tance and  absorbing  interest. 


For  one  of  tlie  '^  Four-Track  Seriett,"  send  tviro  2  cent 
stamps  lo  GFORGE  H.  DANIELS,  General  Passenger 
As^ut*  Grand  Central  Station,  New  York. 


THE 


"WORLD'S  Greatest  Passenger  Train." 

*  *  * 

This  proud  title  has  been  bestowed  by  an 
appreciative  public  on  the 


7(T  is  well  deserved  because  the  train  affords  more 
^  conveniences,  more  comforts  and  more  luxuries 
than  any  other  train  in  the  world.  One  may  eat, 
sleep,  work  or  transact  business  as  if  in  hotel  or 
club.  To  this  end  there  are  luxurious  sleeping 
cars,  dining  cars,  ladies*  maids,  bath  rooms  for  both 
sexes,  a  barber  shop,  financial  news  and  stock  re- 
ports, stenographers  and  type  writers,  United  States 
Mail  boxes  and  a  library. 

TTT  is  the  favorite  train  between  New  York  and 
^     Chicago,  and  a  trip  on  it  is  a  long-remembered 
leasure  tour. 

vfHE    Pennsylvania   Limited  leaves   New  York 
from    the    Pennsylvania     Railroad    Station, 
foot  of   Desbrosses  and   Cortlandt  Streets,  every 
day  at  12  o'clock  noon  for  Chicago. 

J.  R.  WOOD, 

S   M    PREVOST  General  Passenger  Agent. 

General  Manager. 


niANTlC  COAST  LINE 

-*       Via  WASHINGTON. 

SH0RT+LINE 

BETWEEN 

BOSTON,  PHILADELPHIA, 

NEW  YORK,  BALTIMORE, 

WASHINGTON, 

AND 

RICHMOND,  SAVANNAH, 

WILMINGTON,  BRUNSWICK, 

CHARLESTON,  ALBANY, 

THOMASVILLE,  PALATKA, 

JACKSONVILLE,  SANFORD, 

ST.  AUGUSTINE,  TAMPA, 

PUNTA  GORDA, 

ALL  FLORIDA  POINTS,  AND  HAVANA,  CUBA. 

EASTE-RN    OFFICES: 

279  Broadway,  New  York.  33  South  3d  St.  Philadelphia. 

228  Washington  St.,  Boston.       106  East  Germon  St.,- Baltimore. 
511  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  Washington. 


-TO    -A-LIj- 


WINTER  RESORTS 

South  Georgia,  Florida,  Caba,  tlie  West  Indies  and  Mexico, 

Via    HAVANA,    CUBA, 

REACHED   BY   THE 

Plant  ByBtEm 

RAILWAY  AND  STEAMSHIP  LINES, 

Jn  connection  with  Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  via  New  York,  Washington 
and  Atlantic  Coast  Railways,  and  with  the  principal  railway  lines 
between  all  cities  of  the  West  and  South-west,  forming  through  train 
and  sleeping-car  service,  and 

JACKSON VIL.1.E:,  ST.  AUGUSTUVE,  TAMPA  AND 
PORT  TAIUPA,  FLORIDA. 

FAST   AND   COMMODIOUS   STEAMSHIPS  BETWEEN 

Port  Tampa,  Key  West  and  Havana ;  Port  Tampa  and  Mobile ;  Port 
Tampa  and  St.  James  City  (Pine  Island),  Punta  Rassa,  Fort  Myers, 
Naples,  and  resorts  of  the  Gulf  Coast ;  Port  Tampa  and  Manatee  River. 

The  magnificent  Tampa  Bay  Hotel,  at  Tampa,  and  the  Seminole, 
at  Winter  Park,  on  the  South  Florida  R.  R.,  are  open  during  the  season 
of  Winter  Tourist  travel,  and  are  maintained  at  a  high  standard  of 
exceller.ee. 

The  Inn  at  Port  Tampa  is  open  the  entire  year,  and  is  in  an  attrac- 
tive, healthful  and  convenient  place  for  passengers  to  await  the  arrival 
and  departure  of  steamers  and  trains. 

For  further  information  apply  to  any  Railroad  Ticket  Agent,  or  to 

J.  D.  HASHACEN,  Eastern  Agent, 

261    BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK. 
FRED.  ROBLIN,  Traveling  Pass.  Agent, 
261    BROADWAY,  NEW  YORK. 

H.  B.  PLANT,  President. 

12  WEST  23d  STREET,  NEW  YORK. 


WINDSOR  HOTEL, 

XBl^  YORK. 

HAWK    &    WETHERBEE. 


CONVENIENTLY  SITUATED  ON    FIFTH    AVENUE,  NEAR  THE  GRAND 
CENTRAL  RAILWAY   STATION,   ELEVATED  AND   SURFACE 
TRAMWAYS,  THEATRES,  PLACES  OF  AMUSE- 
MENT, CHURCHES  AND  CLUBS. 


HAS  BEEN   RECENTLY   FITTED  THROUGHOUT 
WITH   THE    LATEST    MODERN   SANI- 
TARY  PLUMBING. 


THE   DRINKING  WATER  USED  IS  CHEMICALLY  PURE  AND  THE  ICE 
IS  MADE   FROM    DISTILLED  WATER. 


CUISINE  AND  SERVICE  UNSURPASSED. 


COOL  AND  ATTRACTIVE  IN  SUMMER. 


COMFORTABLE  AND  HOME-LIKE  IN  WINTER. 


STAGES  WHEN  DESIRED,  WILL  MEET  ALL  STEAMERS  AND  CONVEY 

PASSENGERS   AND   LUGGAGE   DIRECT   TO   THE 

HOTEL  AT  MODERATE  CHARGES. 


RAILWAY    TICKETS,    SLEEPING    CAR    AND     DRAWING-ROOM    CAR 
ACCOMMODATIONS  CAN  BE  SECURED  IN  THE  HOTEL;  CABLE 
AND    TELEGRAPH    OFFICE,    RUSSIAN    AND    TURK- 
ISH   BATHS,    AND    EVERY    COMFORT    AND 
CONVENIENCE   FOR  TRAVELERS. 


WELL-LIGHTED  AND  VENTILATED  SPACIOUS  PUBLIC  ROOMS,  COR- 
RIDORS,   DRAWING-ROOMS   AND    PARLOR   SUITES,    SINGLE 
OR   DOUBLE   ROOMS  WITH   OR  WITHOUT  BATHS. 


ALL    LANGUAGES   SPOKEN. 


Graot)  boulevard  and  west  71st  St.. 

NEW  YORK. 


THIS    PABIII^V    HOXHL,    IS    A     PKRFECT    OC9I. 

EVERTTHING  NEW !  EIRTTHING  OF  THE  BEST ! ! 


Choice  sunny  Suites,  large  and  small.  Every  Suite  a 
'Home  by  itself.  Private  Halls.  Engagements  made  by  the 
year.  Suites  fully  Furnished  or  Unfurnished.  A  limited 
number  reserved  for  parties  wishing  to  remain  in  the  City  for 
->a  week  or  more.     Rates  Reasonable.    American  Plan. 

E.    N.    NA/ILSON. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS,  N.  Y. 


lIijW  SMes  Hotel. 


TOMPKINS,  GAGE  A,  PERRY, 

PROPRIETORS. 


Opevi  2^^^  22b  to  Octo^cz  ]c^t. 


MONTEREY-CALIFORNIA. 


MIDWINTER    SCENES 

AT  THE   CELEBRATED 


ISLoiei  del  Fl^onl'e, 

MONTEREY,   CAL 

AMERICA'S  FAMOUS  SUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORT. 

ONLY    3%    HOURS    FROM    SAN    FRANCISCO 
By  Express  Trains  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company. 


R.ates  for  Board:  By  the  day,  $?.oo  and  upward  Parlors, 
from  $i.oD  to  $2.50  per  day,  extra.  Children,  in  children's  dining-room, 
$2.00  per  day. 

Partlcnlar  Attention  is  called  to  the  moderate  charges  for 
accommodations  at  this  magnificent  establishment.  The  extra  cost 
of  a  trip  to  California  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the  difference 
in  rates  at  the  various  Southern  Winter  Resorts  and  the  incomparable 
Hotel  del  Monte. 

Intendinsr  Visitors  to  California  and  the  Hotel  del 
Monte  have  the  choice  of  the  *' Sunset,"  "Central,"  or 
"Stiasta"  Routes.  These  three  routes,  the  three  main  arms  ot 
the  great  railway  system  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company, 
carry  the  traveler  through  the  best  sections  of  California,  and  any  one 
of  them  will  reveal  wonders  of  climate,  products  and  scenery  that  no 
other  part  of  the  world  can  duplicate.  For  illustrated  descriptive  pam- 
phlet of  the  hotel,  and  for  information  as  to  routes  of  travel,  rates  for 
through  tickets,  etc.,  call  upon  or  address  IE.  HA'Wl.EV,  Assistant 
•General  Traffic  Manager,  Southern  Pacific  Company,  343  Broad- 
-way,  Meiiv  York. 

For  further  information,  address 

GEORGE  SCHONEWALD.  Manager  Hotel  del  Monte, 

OPEN  ALL  THE  YEAR  ROUND.  MONTEREY,  CALIFORNIA. 


ON 

SANTA  CRUZ  BEACH, 
Santa  Cruz,  California. 


The  leading  family  hotel  with  modern  improvements  and 
first-class  service.  Hot  and  cold  water  ;  electric  lights  and  call 
bells  in  every  room  ;  headquarters  for  all  tourists  ;  six  miles  to 
the  famous  Big  Trees,  "  Giant  Redwoods.  ' 

The  finest  land  and  marine  view  on  the  coast.  For  terms 
and  illustrated  souvenir,  address 

JOHN  T.  SULLIVAN,  Proprietor. 

PACIFIC  OCEAN  HOUSE. 

The  leading  commercial  house  in 

SANTA   CRUZ. 

Centrally  located  on  the  principal  Street.  Large,  pleasant 
sample  rooms  and  modern  improvements.  Street  cars  pass 
the  door. 

TERMS: 
$2.00,    $2. SO    arid    $3.00    per    Day. 


SULLIVAN  &  CHACE,  Proprietors. 


H.  W.  LAKE,  Manager. 


YOUR  ADVERTISING 


S    SOLICITED. 


Estimates,  containing  Selected  Lists  of  Suitable 
Publications   with    Rates   for   Advertising,    furnished    free. 

References  to  firnr^s  usirtg  this  agency  given  on 
application 


^HE  PRICE  OF 


UTICA,    N.  Y. 

IS 

ONE    DOLLAR   A   YEAR. 

Many  of  its  Readers  Think  it  is  Worth   More. 
ITS    NIISSION 

IS 

To  TELL  YOU  ABOUT  AMERICAN  SUMMER  AND 
WINTER  RESORTS. 


A  subscription  to  The  Tourist  includes  a 

subscription  to  any  one  of  the  four 

weeklies  which  form 

THE     NEWS     SERIES: 

The  Saratoga  News. 
The  Richfield  news, 
The  St.  Augustine  News. 
The  thousand  Islands  News, 

WHICH  HAVE  BEEN  CALLED 

"THE  COURT  JOURNALS"  OF  AMERICAN  HEALTH  AND  PLEASURE  RESORTS. 

Each  subscriber  to  either  The  Tourist  or  any  one  of  The  News  Series 
becomes  a  subscriber  to 

The  Travellers'  Bureaus  of  The  News  Series, 

Whose  business  it  is  to  furnish  trustworthy  information  relating  to  America's 
Summer  and  Winter  Resorts. 

deneral  Office,  UTICA,  N.  Y.  F.  G.  BARRI,  Publisher. 


II  and  12  DOVER  STREET.  PICCADILLY,    -     LONDON. 
277  FIFTH  AVENUE,  -        -        -  NEW  YORK. 

1703  MICHIGAN  AVENUE,       -        -        -        CHICAGO. 


KATE    REILY 

TT  AS  alwa3'S  on  view  at  her  three  well-known  e.stab- 
*  *  lishments,  in  London,  New  York  and  Chicago, 
a  varied  assortment  of  the  newest  and  most  choice 
goods  in 


(^osfumes,  Mantles  i^^Millinef'^. 


Madame  Reily  pays  six  or  more  annual  visits  to 
Paris,  where  she  has  also  a  permanent  agent.  She  thus 
secures  the  freshest  novelties,  as  they  appear,  and 
seizing  all  that  is  best  and  most  becoming  in  the  in- 
coming fashions  adapts  it  to  the  especial  requirements 
of  her  extensive  clientele. 

Madame  Reily 's  excellent  taste  has  obtained  for  her 
the  esteemed  patronage  of  all  the  most  fashionable, 
aristocratic  and  artistic  ladies  of  both  hemispheres. 


PERFECT   FIT  GUARANTEED    BY   FIRST-CLASS 
FRENCH    FITTERS. 


THE  HOME  JOURNAL, 

A   WEEKLY  NEWSPAPER  OF 

^IJIIPBI^AJPUF?B,    flF?rp    AND    SOGIBJPY,  ^ 

FOUNDED  IN  1846  BY  THE  WELL-KNOWN  POETS, 

CEO.   P.   MORRIS  AND  N.   P.  WILLIS, 

retains  its  prestige  as  the  exponent  of  that  literary  and 
art  culture  which  gives  grace  and  refinement  to  social 
intercourse. 

Readers  at  a  distance  will  find  the  best  life  of  the 
metropolis  reflected  in  its  pages.  It  is  also  in  an 
especial  sense  an 

INTERNATIONAL  JOURNAL, 

and  by  its  correspondence  and  essays  brings  its  readers 
into  touch  with  the  social  life  of  the 

GREAT  EUROPEAN  CENTRES  OF  CULTURE. 

The  Home  Journal  contains  more  advertisements 
of  SUMMER  AND  WINTER  RESORT  HOTELS,  and  devotes  more 
editorial  space  to  them  than  any  other  newspaper. 

It  has  particular  value  as  an  advertising  medium 
for  EUROPEAN  HOTELS,  being  the  organ  of  cultivated  and 
fashionable  Americans — those  who  pass  their  summers 
in  Europe. 

PUBLISHED  EVERY   WEDNESDAY. 
SUBSCRIPTION,  $2.00  PER  YEAR.  FIVE  CENTS  A  COPY. 


MORRIS  PHILLIPS  &  CO.,  PublisheFS, 

240  Broadway,  New  York. 


DEMPSEY  &  CflHROLL, 

THE  UNION   SQUARE. 

ART   STATIONERS  36 

— ^I^  

AND  'i^  EAST   14th  STREET, 

ENGRAVERS,  NEW  YORK  CITY. 

CORRECT  STYLES. 

WEDDI?«G  INVITATIONS  &  ANNOUNCEMENTS 
RECEPTION  &  VISITING  CARDS. 


High  Grade  Stationery, 

MONOGRAM,   ADDRESS  AND  HERALDIC  DIES. 


hand  painted 
Mbi^us  and  Dixnkr  Cards. 


rich  leather  goods, 

PLAIN   AND  SILVER  MOUNTED. 


I9IPORXED   SXAXIOKERY  NOVELTIES. 


(+70 
?5G 


SllGH 


m 


SS    FAILORIMG, 


292    FIFTH    AVENUE, 

Just  Above  the  Holland  House,  Between  30th  and  31st  Sts. 


"  It  is  easier  to  follow 
than  to  lead." 


This  aphorism  is  just  as  true 
today  as  it  was  in  the  time  of 
Columbus.         d  (f  ^ 


As  an  acknowledged  leader  in  HIGH  CLASS  TAILORING 
for  the  well  dressed,  I  take  pleasure  to  invite  you 
to  my  NEW  ESTABLISHMENT,  FIFTH  AVENUE, 
TWO  NINETY-TWO  (just  above  Holland  House),  to 
inspect  a  complete  line  of  CLOTHS  manufactured  abroad 
by  special  warrant.         #  if  f  ®  i 


Prices 

Moderate. 


JOHN  J.  KENNEDY, 

NEW  YORK, 


MA 

BEG  « 


PIANO 


A    000  994  878    7 
HIS  MAJESTY  EMPERl.v  .."uuihw  u.  ur  ^tKMANl 

By  patent  dated  June  13    18^2.  has  deipned  to  appoint  the  piano 

manufacturer,  William  Stsinway  the  head  of  the  house  of 

Steinway  &  Sons,  New  York,  piano  manufacturer  to 


THE  ROYAL  COURT  OF  PRUSSIA. 


STEINWAY     80     SONS 

Beg  further  to  announce 
that  by  Royal  Warrants 
dated  respectively  May  29, 
June  18,  and  Oct.  4,  iSgo, 
they  were  honored  by  the 
appointments  of  piano  man- 
ufacturers to 

HE  J?  MAJESTY 

THE  QUEEN  OF  ENGLAND, 

AND 

THEIR  ROYAL  HIGHNESSES 

The  Prince  and  Princess  of  ^ku.%. 

ILLUSTRATED  CATALOGUES  MAILED  FREE  ON  APPLICATION. 

STEIHV^^AY  ^  SONS, 

WAREROOMS : 

STEINWAY  HALL,  107-Ml  East  14tli  Street,  HEW  YORK. 

EUROF-KAN    DEF>OT5S: 


STEINAVAV  IIA1.1., 

IS  and  17  Lower  Seymour  Street, 
Portman  Square.  \V., 

LONDON.    CNG. 


ST>:iXWAT'S  PIANOFABRIK, 

St.  Pauli.  ^  >Stiasse.  20-24 


